Track forum general chit chat.

[omgzirra_exe]

I curse those who run anti-freeze on track. I nearly lost my shit a couple of years ago cause a civic went off and cracked his radiator open as he got back on track.

2nd time in a canyon drive some dude ran over a large rock and busted their radiator too lol.

RL WW is goated. I never had cooling issues, you seem to have more problems internal than anything at this point.

[derbo]

Since we are on the topic:

Distilled water; I hear both sides where one says you should use it. Other side says it will rip electrons from metals due to its instability. The alternative should be soft water that has NaCl to remove the impurities.

https://rislone.com/blog/cooling/why...ooling-system/

During the distillation process, water is vaporized into its gaseous phase, so all its impurities are left behind. These impurities include a number of minerals, including “calcium” and “magnesium,” the two components of water “hardness.” The water is then condensed back into its liquid phase, so the resulting liquid is pure water – in fact, some of the purest water on earth. But the problem is that when water is distilled, or “stripped,” of its minerals and impurities, the resulting solution is composed of chemically imbalanced “ions.” This leaves distilled water “ionically hungry,” so it will actually strip electrons from the metals in a cooling system as it attempts to chemically re-balance itself. As it chemically removes electrons from the metals of cooling system components, distilled water eventually does extreme damage that could lead to cooling system failure.

How long are the intervals between non-glycol based fluids? Annually?

[rhyary]

a racing team at WGI was helping me last year and they say at least 10% bmw coolant in distilled water. I forget if they were also using water wetter.

Regardless, and with all due respect to those who like to hate 50/50 HPDE drivers, who are you kidding? 75% of all the attendees are running street cars with no intention to touch anything under the hood.

[Bimmer Barney]

Originally Posted by rhyary

a racing team at WGI was helping me last year and they say at least 10% bmw coolant in distilled water. I forget if they were also using water wetter.

Regardless, and with all due respect to those who like to hate 50/50 HPDE drivers, who are you kidding? 75% of all the attendees are running street cars with no intention to touch anything under the hood.

I'm not naive to the ignorance but I don't accept it as ok. I just take care of myself and my car the way it should be done on a racetrack. I would encourage others to do the same and give proper respect to your fellow track mates and the risks involved.

Not trying to be on a high horse either, just discussing track stuff here.

[SAMM3Y]

Tbh my m3 has coolant in it but my track bike is just distilled water. I was saying to the guys earlier in our chat it's definitely something that's important and something most clubs should bring up but it's never been discussed in any meeting I've attended. I have read before about flushing glycol out for track days but can't recall if it's on a club website or the track's website. The interesting thing is, I have to go thru tech inspection every time I track my bike and they've never asked or checked about whether it has glycol based coolant in it or not. It totally makes sense though… I'll flush the coolant out the car before I track it next.

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by rhyary

a racing team at WGI was helping me last year and they say at least 10% bmw coolant in distilled water. I forget if they were also using water wetter.

Regardless, and with all due respect to those who like to hate 50/50 HPDE drivers, who are you kidding? 75% of all the attendees are running street cars with no intention to touch anything under the hood.

I do apologize if I came off rude in that matter, it's the fact I've experienced the worse-case scenarios with coolant failures on the track caused by others.

I've seen cars on track cause their own wrecks because of a coolant leak that got on their tires.

sure it's just HPDE, but I for one refuse to put others at risk if I have an on-track failure that can cause accidents.

of course, not everyone will share the same opinion.

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe

I do apologize if I came off rude in that matter, it's the fact I've experienced the worse-case scenarios with coolant failures on the track caused by others.

I've seen cars on track cause their own wrecks because of a coolant leak that got on their tires.

sure it's just HPDE, but I for one refuse to put others at risk if I have an on-track failure that can cause accidents.

of course, not everyone will share the same opinion.

No worries. Just realize that coolant is one liquid out of many. Motor oil, power steering oil, gear oil are all fluids that can leak and put us at risk.

I am more concerned about cooling properties than being one of the few in my session that does not use glycol.

It is HPDE, we are not talking about race cars.

[Bimmer Barney]

We don't have to beat a dead horse but just wanted to say that distilled water and water wetter has been shown in many applications to perform better in terms of cooling vs coolant. So if cooling properties are the motivation, you should consider making the conversion. I live in CA by the beach. I don't need any kind of "antifreeze" properties. Water isn't going to freeze and expand and crack my block.

And I agree that oil and coolant are both bad things to end up on a racetrack. Both result in a black flag. Both are a PIA to remove from the track surface. The problem with coolant is it's harder to detect and a radiator or hose is a lot more likely to blow than the oil lines or engine. But the guidance is to not take a car that leaks either on track.

[MaX PL]

Need some advice...

Have MCS suspension with GC plates.

Trying to swap front springs so need to remove the gold 22mm top nut at the plates to free the strut.

Everywhere I've read states that there are supposed to be two top nuts, but I think thats on OEM suspension only. With the MCS, they state not to use the 8mm brass nut with holes as a counter hold as thats there for the rebound adjust knob which I've removed. For tightening they write to just cinch tight when tightening.
If so, how do I go about loosening?

[derbo]

Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney

We don't have to beat a dead horse but just wanted to say that distilled water and water wetter has been shown in many applications to perform better in terms of cooling vs coolant. So if cooling properties are the motivation, you should consider making the conversion. I live in CA by the beach. I don't need any kind of "antifreeze" properties. Water isn't going to freeze and expand and crack my block.

And I agree that oil and coolant are both bad things to end up on a racetrack. Both result in a black flag. Both are a PIA to remove from the track surface. The problem with coolant is it's harder to detect and a radiator or hose is a lot more likely to blow than the oil lines or engine. But the guidance is to not take a car that leaks either on track.

I'm curious of the alternatives in the past decade.

VP Stay Frosty Race Ready
https://vpracingfuels.com/product/st...-ready/?c=361&

Ready-to-Use – Just Pour In
Contains No Slippery/Hazardous Glycol
Reduces Engine Temps By Up To 30°F
100% Water-Based Formula
Maximizes Horsepower and Torque
No Freeze Protection – Maximum Cooling
Non Toxic and Biodegradable
Blended with Chemically Stable Reverse Osmosis Water

https://rislone.com/products/hy-per-cool-super-coolant/
Also no glycol



https://www.evanscoolant.com/product...g-coolant-npg/

This one is interesting cause it is waterless and expensive. I think JayLeno loves this one. The most interesting part is the higher boiling point but I don't see anything suggesting reducing in engine coolant temps like the other options.

Or just buy water wetter or the super coolant
https://www.redlineoil.com/supercool-extreme

[Gossypiboma]

Originally Posted by MaX PL

Need some advice...

Have MCS suspension with GC plates.

Trying to swap front springs so need to remove the gold 22mm top nut at the plates to free the strut.

Everywhere I've read states that there are supposed to be two top nuts, but I think thats on OEM suspension only. With the MCS, they state not to use the 8mm brass nut with holes as a counter hold as thats there for the rebound adjust knob which I've removed. For tightening they write to just cinch tight when tightening.
If so, how do I go about loosening?

It looks like you can just zip that 22mm nut off with an impact.

[MaX PL]

yeh vorshlag apparently only recommends an impact for assembly and possibly disassembly, while everyone else says to never use an impact. cant find anything on what ground control or MCS recommends.

want to do it right either way.

[Gossypiboma]

Originally Posted by MaX PL

yeh vorshlag apparently only recommends an impact for assembly and possibly disassembly, while everyone else says to never use an impact. cant find anything on what ground control or MCS recommends.

want to do it right either way.

I would have no hesitation taking an impact to that nut.

[VicS5]

Anyone know what is the max DCT fluid temp that sends our cars into limp mode?
I downloaded the newest PT6 version from Aim (thanks @Rhyary) so I can track DCT temps and would like to create an alarm to warn when temps are escalating. No idea where to set that threshold. I found that the thermostat opens at 203F, but nothing more.
I have an Epic TCU tune that raises the threshold, but I thought the stock setting would be a reasonable alarm point.
Thanks

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by VicS5

Anyone know what is the max DCT fluid temp that sends our cars into limp mode?
I downloaded the newest PT6 version from Aim (thanks @Rhyary) so I can track DCT temps and would like to create an alarm to warn when temps are escalating. No idea where to set that threshold. I found that the thermostat opens at 203F, but nothing more.
I have an Epic TCU tune that raises the threshold, but I thought the stock setting would be a reasonable alarm point.
Thanks

if I recall, when I did my DCT service, I filled it up to when my DCT temp was like 100F

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by VicS5

Anyone know what is the max DCT fluid temp that sends our cars into limp mode?
I downloaded the newest PT6 version from Aim (thanks @Rhyary) so I can track DCT temps and would like to create an alarm to warn when temps are escalating. No idea where to set that threshold. I found that the thermostat opens at 203F, but nothing more.
I have an Epic TCU tune that raises the threshold, but I thought the stock setting would be a reasonable alarm point.
Thanks

Set the DCT alarm to 212.
I get routinely to 210 on the hight temp range with not warning.

If you see later that you can get to higher temps and no limp, increase the threshold

[e92BMW///M3]

Anyone ever use a bluetooth tire pressure/temperature gauge? Amazon sells a few different brands but never heard this discussed so I assume there’s probably a reason given how ‘easy’ this solution seems for the price.

[leftfootbr8king]

Originally Posted by e92BMW///M3

Anyone ever use a bluetooth tire pressure/temperature gauge? Amazon sells a few different brands but never heard this discussed so I assume there’s probably a reason given how ‘easy’ this solution seems for the price.

I use them on my trailer with the display on the dash of my truck. For that purpose they are really nice.

I think if you want something that could be trusted on a track car you'd be looking at the options from AIM, and they are $€£€$$

[b4hand]

Originally Posted by leftfootbr8king

I use them on my trailer with the display on the dash of my truck. For that purpose they are really nice.

What brand do you use? I need a set

[leftfootbr8king]

Originally Posted by b4hand

What brand do you use? I need a set

Tymate M7-3. It reads consistently high by 2 lbs against my longacre gauge, so I just keep that in mind. Otherwise, works well.

[e92BMW///M3]

Originally Posted by leftfootbr8king

I think if you want something that could be trusted on a track car

Thanks, interested what you mean by trusted? As in the data quality is poor? Concerns over it getting tossed off the car?

I’m certainly far from a track car and really just curious as to peak temperatures/pressures. Certainly not looking to spend a ton of $ given my use case.

I put PS4S on my fronts (from PS2) so it was the first time having PS4S all around and I dropped over a second on a 47s lap on Lime Rocks AutoX course, so I was pretty excited given my level of experience. Next session after ~4 laps the tires got really slippery and I struggled to get into the 47s the rest Of the day. By the time I got into the pit (which is really just the staging for going out, so not necessarily anywhere consistent ), walked over to my gear, brought my gauge back to the car and measured temps it was probably 7 mins since I came off the track so not sure exactly what the peak PSI was. also curious as to the temperature that caused this since it made the rest of the day pretty lousy since I don’t think the tires every really cooled down fully. If these aren’t the answer (seems the case as I assumed), I’ll just remember to keep my pressure gauge in the car or figure out where to keep my stuff that is easier to get to quickly.

[leftfootbr8king]

Originally Posted by e92BMW///M3

Thanks, interested what you mean by trusted? As in the data quality is poor? Concerns over it getting tossed off the car?

I'm certainly far from a track car and really just curious as to peak temperatures/pressures. Certainly not looking to spend a ton of $ given my use case.

I put PS4S on my fronts (from PS2) so it was the first time having PS4S all around and I dropped over a second on a 47s lap on Lime Rocks AutoX course, so I was pretty excited given my level of experience. Next session after ~4 laps the tires got really slippery and I struggled to get into the 47s the rest Of the day. By the time I got into the pit (which is really just the staging for going out, so not necessarily anywhere consistent ), walked over to my gear, brought my gauge back to the car and measured temps it was probably 7 mins since I came off the track so not sure exactly what the peak PSI was. also curious as to the temperature that caused this since it made the rest of the day pretty lousy since I don't think the tires every really cooled down fully. If these aren't the answer (seems the case as I assumed), I'll just remember to keep my pressure gauge in the car or figure out where to keep my stuff that is easier to get to quickly.

These won't record temps or psi, so unless your eyes are focused on the little display you're not going to be able to go back and see peak anything.

Im not sure if they can handle track temps? They were made for trailer tires that see 95-100 degree temps at highway speeds.

If you want to give them a shot, I don't think they'll do any harm.