The Infamous Oil Pan Drain Bolt Spinning

[Dpc2u]

Originally Posted by TrueToBMW

Has anyone ever tried scoping the rear drain hole via the front most drain? To get eyes on any shavings that might have been left behind?

The design would preclude access. No way to snake it through front front to back.

[TrueToBMW]

Originally Posted by Dpc2u

The design would preclude access. No way to snake it through front front to back.

Yeah I guess once the pickup is in place and all the tubing for the pump it would not allow very much clearance to snake a small bore scope through there.

[DirtyM3]

Though it's time consuming and doesn't get all the metal shavings. My method was just using the magnetic tool that picks up nuts and bolts to get what shavings I can. Drain it out with the old oil and did the process again. I did that until I felt comfortable on where it's at. Then I put in the magnetic drain plug to catch whatever I didn't.

[tdott]

Originally Posted by DirtyM3

Though it's time consuming and doesn't get all the metal shavings. My method was just using the magnetic tool that picks up nuts and bolts to get what shavings I can. Drain it out with the old oil and did the process again. I did that until I felt comfortable on where it's at. Then I put in the magnetic drain plug to catch whatever I didn't.

The aluminum flakes from the pan aren't magnetic.

[TrueToBMW]

Well I got the plug out after using a pair of vice grips. There was aluminum threading in the bolt threads and shavings that came out with the old oil.

[TrueToBMW]

UPDATE: I let the oil drain out for about 2 days, no more dripping and decided to start the time-sert process.

I lightly coated the drill with some heavy grease and it caught A LOT of the shavings, I would say that made a huge difference right off the bat. I then used the counterbore bit and applied a little driver oil to the cutting surface and went slow, making sure to clean off the bit often (probably 4 times total before reaching the correct depth).

Finally I decided to tackle the tapping of the new hole, I lightly coated the tap bit with the heavy grease and used a little oil on it as well, using the guide and continuing to hold pressure on it I started tapping the new hole, making sure that every full revolution or so I reversed it in order to clear any aluminum in the tap threads.

So once that was all done, I actually have a bore scope with an articulating head and was able to fit it into the damaged drain hole and kink it past 90 degrees in order to see the hole and the surrounding area and check for any debris.

Cleaned up any shavings I could find with wire and grease (those little metal shavings love to stick to the grease), once that was done and most of the little shavings had been removed I used 5 quarts of 5W-30 Castrol Fully Synthetic and flushed half through the engine (making sure to plug the other undamaged drain hole), while it was draining I aggitated the area around the repaired hole in order to loosen any shavings up, then flushed the remaining 5 quarts and allowing it to fully drain as we speak.

Later today, once its no longer dripping oil, I'll clean the repaired hole with brake/parts cleaner and allow it to air dry overnight, then tomorrow I will tackle installing the time-sert, on which I intend to use high-temp red loctite on (hence the parts cleaner and the overnight wait).

[TrueToBMW]

These are the parts I've used thus far;

Repair kit:
https://www.threaddoctor.com/drain-p...epair-kit.html

Driver Oil:
https://www.threaddoctor.com/useful-...ert-driver-oil

Red Loctite:
https://www.threaddoctor.com/useful-...strength-10-ml

Any generic heavy grease (you don't need much, very little is needed to catch any shavings)
Tap wrench (the kit does NOT come with one)
5W-30 fully synthetic oil (I used 5 quarts to do the flush, its optional, but worth the investment IMO)

[tdott]

Originally Posted by TrueToBMW

Later today, once its no longer dripping oil, I'll clean the repaired hole with brake/parts cleaner and allow it to air dry overnight, then tomorrow I will tackle installing the time-ser, on which I intend to use high-temp red loctite on (hence the parts cleaner and the overnight wait).

Great work, you should have great results because you are taking time to do it right.
I would also let the red loctite dry for 24h before applying torque to it.

Should make for a long lasting repair. Better than any shop would do, since they would never take the time to let it drain/dry properly after each step.

[TrueToBMW]

I installed the Time-sert last night, used red loctite on the outer threads and some driver oil on the insert device.

Before the install I cleaned it with brake cleaner and made sure to clean any remaining oil residue and then installed it.

Going to allow it to dry for about 2 or 3 days and allow the loctite to cure, then I'll install the Dimple drain plugs with new washers, new Mann oil filter, and some fresh Castrol Titanium fully synthetic 10W-60.

[TrueToBMW]

I also have photos of the final install and photos of the inside of the drain pan, but you can find even better photos on other threads where guys have removed the pan and installed the time-serts with the pan off the engine.

[TrueToBMW]

Update: allowed the time-sert plug and red loctite combo to cure for 3 days, so yesterday finally put both plugs back in, andddd both torqued to 18 ft-lbs!!

Then changed the oil filter and added ~9.1 quarts and so far it's looking dry underneath.

Overall this wasn't hard, just took my time and really made sure to get all the metal shavings out from the whole process and keeping all the bits, guides and taps flush with the oil pan.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by TrueToBMW

Update: allowed the time-sert plug and red loctite combo to cure for 3 days, so yesterday finally put both plugs back in, andddd both torqued to 18 ft-lbs!!

Then changed the oil filter and added ~9.1 quarts and so far it's looking dry underneath.

Overall this wasn't hard, just took my time and really made sure to get all the metal shavings out from the whole process and keeping all the bits, guides and taps flush with the oil pan.

Must be great feeling to get that in order, congrats!

[TrueToBMW]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

Must be great feeling to get that in order, congrats!

Definitely, thanks again to all who helped and offered advice, much appreciated, hope I can be of help next time this issue comes around for someone else.

[anselmw]

I had to time sert my current and last M3. Both times worked perfectly, i found the key is to drill the hole as perfect as you can get so that the time sert sits flush. Since the time sert is steel, you will never worry about over torqued and stripped threads

[TrueToBMW]

Originally Posted by anselmw

I had to time sert my current and last M3. Both times worked perfectly, i found the key is to drill the hole as perfect as you can get so that the time sert sits flush. Since the time sert is steel, you will never worry about over torqued and stripped threads

Agreed, having it sit flush is key, and I think using the red loctite 266 on the outer threads of the time sert was/is also pretty vital (I'm guessing), and allowing it to cure/dry.

[anselmw]

Also for those that ever get this issue again. I wish I had remembered. I would have swapped to a pan with the dipstick tube welded in. I regret not doing this the 2nd time as the car was down for the repair so might have just had it out for a little longer for the new pan. Also for those doing rod bearings, I would definitely do the dipstick tube pan at that time as well.

[TrueToBMW]

Originally Posted by anselmw

Also for those that ever get this issue again. I wish I had remembered. I would have swapped to a pan with the dipstick tube welded in. I regret not doing this the 2nd time as the car was down for the repair so might have just had it out for a little longer for the new pan. Also for those doing rod bearings, I would definitely do the dipstick tube pan at that time as well.

Agreed. I did the repair with the pan on the engine. But if I ever have the pan off, be it rod bearings or something else i plan on running a pan with the welded dipstick tube.

Do you have a link to the 'updated' pan?

[drrust]

The dipstick kit is from Bimmerworld

https://www.bimmerworld.com/S65-Oil-...d-Oil-Pan.html

One can buy the kit alone or with a used or new oil pan. Deansbimmer also can install the bung for the kit into the oil pan. Technically any shop that can TIG weld aluminum should be able to install the bung.

[TrueToBMW]

Originally Posted by drrust

The dipstick kit is from Bimmerworld

https://www.bimmerworld.com/S65-Oil-...d-Oil-Pan.html

One can buy the kit alone or with a used or new oil pan. Deansbimmer also can install the bung for the kit into the oil pan. Technically any shop that can TIG weld aluminum should be able to install the bung.

awesome, thanks for the link!

[MyNameIsNotSure]

Originally Posted by tdott

9.2mm is the size you want, They have 12mm, 24mm, 30mm I believe, but it will be too long and not allow alot of oil out.

This is what it looks like installed. It will let less oil out, because the sert doesn't have reliefs cut in the thread like the original thread does.

Welp, looks like I might be in the same boat now, seems like my thread is stripped but still felt pretty tight so I guess I’ll find out next oil change. I don’t really understand why this time-Sert is recommended as a viable solution though because judging by this photo the insert will prevent quite a bit of oil from draining because it doesn’t have the slits in it that the original thread housing does. Is this just a necessary compromise? Kinda hard to tell the height but based on the area of the pan I’d say that could be 0.5-1qt of old oil left in there with every oil change, doesn’t sound too great.

What would be wrong with just tapping a new thread and using a larger plug bolt?

[anselmw]

Time sert is way to go. It does go in a bit longer but not sure it will make that big a difference. Filter is supposed to collect the contaminants. If there is that much in the oil. Probably looking at a bigger issue.

[tdott]

Originally Posted by MyNameIsNotSure

Kinda hard to tell the height but based on the area of the pan I’d say that could be 0.5-1qt of old oil left in there with every oil change, doesn’t sound too great.

It's a lot less than that. There is also alot more oil left in other parts of the engine that an oil change doesn't get out.

It's not a big deal compared to the alternative. Buying and installing a new or used pan.