Track forum general chit chat.

[StripclubDJ]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

anyone have a problem with their d088 DCT cooler not fitting right? my oem hoses don't fit into the female cooler block.

I've installed over 20 of them and they all fit perfect

[dparm]

Originally Posted by rg1220

Question: Should I go with Dinan fixed camber plates or adjustable camber/caster plates (Vorshlag, etc)?

I did 3 track weekends this year and plan on doing ~5 next year. I have OEM Competition suspension with EDC. I put Michelin PSS's on for the most recent track weekend and I'm starting to notice a little more wear on the outside edge of the front tires so I'm thinking I need to get some negative camber added in. I do daily drive the car and it's currently aligned to oem spec. I'm not planning on upgrading to coilovers for a long time either.

I was thinking best bang for buck would be the Dinan Fixed Camber Plates but should I bite the bullet and go for the adjustable ones which can give you even more camber? Thoughts?

Assuming you don't live in west bumblefuck, get the adjustable kit. I see no reason to adjust alignment more than once or twice a year unless you have a penchant for slamming every curb on the track, but having the flexibility to test things is worth the slight upcharge.

+1 vote for Vorshlag's kit. Terry and Jason make great stuff and are serious track guys.

[Davisca455]

Originally Posted by rg1220

Question: Should I go with Dinan fixed camber plates or adjustable camber/caster plates (Vorshlag, etc)?

I did 3 track weekends this year and plan on doing ~5 next year. I have OEM Competition suspension with EDC. I put Michelin PSS's on for the most recent track weekend and I'm starting to notice a little more wear on the outside edge of the front tires so I'm thinking I need to get some negative camber added in. I do daily drive the car and it's currently aligned to oem spec. I'm not planning on upgrading to coilovers for a long time either.

I was thinking best bang for buck would be the Dinan Fixed Camber Plates but should I bite the bullet and go for the adjustable ones which can give you even more camber? Thoughts?

Like you, I'll only do a handful of track days this year.

My car has to remain comfortable on the street, because that's where 99% of my miles are accumulated, so I make compromises that hurt my lap times in the interest of retaining comfort.

But on track, I experienced severe front tire wear with the stock alignment specs, so I decided to install some adjustable camber plates.
The results were well worth the time and expense.
I can quickly change the front camber settings (from -2.0 to -3.0) at the track, then reverse it for the drive home.

The local alignment shop told me to bring my own specs if I wanted something different than OEM, so that's what I did.
They even let me help.

It's all detailed here:

https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=28016607

[rg1220]

Originally Posted by Davisca455

It's all detailed here:

https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=28016607

That's super helpful!

I decided I didn't want to have a conversation with Suzanne about needing new tires, knowing her response would be along the lines of "Wait, didn't you just get new tires a few months ago?"

100% the same

[aerosynch]

What are everyone's thoughts on the Pinnacle Motorsports brake ducts? Got these photos from their Facebook and trying to figure out if anyone here has them and if they direct the air into the rotor hat.

[tsk94]

Here we go again...


One thing worth mentioning is 'does it direct the air into the rotor hat' will depend on which brake kit you're running. Hat size varies between different BBK's and stock brakes as well.

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by tsk94

Here we go again...


One thing worth mentioning is 'does it direct the air into the rotor hat' will depend on which brake kit you're running. Hat size varies between different BBK's and stock brakes as well.

brake duct topic is the best

[aerosynch]

Originally Posted by tsk94

Here we go again...


One thing worth mentioning is 'does it direct the air into the rotor hat' will depend on which brake kit you're running. Hat size varies between different BBK's and stock brakes as well.

My mistake. I'm on stock brakes still.

[tsk94]

Originally Posted by aerosynch

My mistake. I'm on stock brakes still.

By the looks of those pictures - no. And almost certainly not for stock brakes. The Hard Motorsport ones do work 'properly' for stock brakes though.

[aerosynch]

Originally Posted by tsk94

By the looks of those pictures - no. And almost certainly not for stock brakes. The Hard Motorsport ones do work 'properly' for stock brakes though.

Appreciate it thanks. Wanted to verify before purchasing something that might or might not work.

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by aerosynch

Appreciate it thanks. Wanted to verify before purchasing something that might or might not work.

i do want to mention Pinnacle Does use his stuff on the Nur, with his M3 so i guess you can say it works, but how it works none of us know.

[Bimmer Barney]

#eek

[Bartledoo]

Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney

#eek

I feel targeted…I like it.

[Bimmer Barney]

Originally Posted by Bartledoo

I feel targeted…I like it.

No! You started something that is funny. All in jest friend.

[Richbot]

one day I'll post the CFD analysis that shows the OEM front brake ducts on the e36 directed flow to the inner annulus of the rotor. Really amazing engineering. I know the file is floating around here somewhere

[chocstraw]

Do I need to do anything different when switching from a DOT4 to Castrol SRF ?

or can I just turkey baster most of the fluid reservoir and bleed normally? I have a working INPA setup if necessary.

[kyippee]

Ordered brake ducts.. for my Supra. Seems good

https://www.verus-engineering.com/sh...pra-1956#attr=

[derbo]

Anyone have a rear sway off the car that could measure this for me?



I'm looking for A/C and B in the diagram. Thanks!

[derbo]

Originally Posted by chocstraw

Do I need to do anything different when switching from a DOT4 to Castrol SRF ?

or can I just turkey baster most of the fluid reservoir and bleed normally? I have a working INPA setup if necessary.

Just do as you would do for a full flush. Bleed all the corners, then Bleed all the corners again with the DSC Pump engaged. You might need more than 1 bottle if you plan to make sure its fully flushed.

[Davisca455]

Originally Posted by derbo

Anyone have a rear sway off the car that could measure this for me?



I'm looking for A/C and B in the diagram. Thanks!

I made the end link hole the same height as the center of the bar before taking measurements.

(measured by eye using a tape measure)

Rear:
A = 8.3125"
B = 29.00"
C = 13.00"
D = .900"


Front:
A = 9.625"
B = 23.50"
C = 11.50"
D = 1.05"

[derbo]

Originally Posted by Davisca455

I made the end link hole the same height as the center of the bar before taking measurements.

(measured by eye using a tape measure)

Rear:
A = 8.3125"
B = 29.00"
C = 13.00"
D = .900"


Front:
A = 9.625"
B = 23.50"
C = 11.50"
D = 1.05"

You are the man!!!!

[dparm]

Originally Posted by chocstraw

Do I need to do anything different when switching from a DOT4 to Castrol SRF ?

or can I just turkey baster most of the fluid reservoir and bleed normally? I have a working INPA setup if necessary.

Do not turkey baster it. Do a proper flush or you are just diluting good brake fluid with old shit. Pay your local race shop to do it if you don't trust your own abilities.