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      10-11-2021, 12:52 PM   #19713
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dparm View Post
They gave you the entire windshield banner?
It was $15 I think, they had a bunch of them printed off
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      10-11-2021, 02:19 PM   #19714
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Originally Posted by Shmelgy View Post
If you can't find one, worst case I have some 18x10 if you want to borrow those for front and use your 10.5 rear. Let me know, I'll be passing by your house later today
To the rescue!!!! Yes, I will take you up on that offer. Thanks
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      10-11-2021, 07:01 PM   #19715
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Does anyone know if the rear quarter panel body shell is a structural member or not?

I recently took a moderate hit to my quarter panel, and it's in the shop for bodywork. Luckily there's no mechanical damage, but as I'm sure you guys know, the quarter panel is a nightmare to replace.

I just got a call back from my shop, and they're saying that they would like to use the entire replacement panel supplied by BMW (seen in primer black).

This would require pulling the roof as well. He raised the concern with me that the roof could be damaged in the process and it's $6000 to replace (required by insurance to use a new part) and it's currently sold out with no ETA. This could also total my car.

His other suggestion was repairing the current piece by pulling it and filling it. I'm not happy with either option.

I suggested the repair seen on this melbourne red M3, which would involve cutting the existing panel and cutting the replacement part. It doesn't really look like it bears significant load, so I'm thinking this would be fine, any thoughts? The shop is good and the owner also has an E92 M3, but he said he won't guarantee the structural integrity, just the fit and finish.

I'm coming to you guys because this is the most knowledgeable pocket of the forum.

Thanks





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      10-11-2021, 09:03 PM   #19716
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chocstraw View Post
Does anyone know if the rear quarter panel body shell is a structural member or not?

I recently took a moderate hit to my quarter panel, and it's in the shop for bodywork. Luckily there's no mechanical damage, but as I'm sure you guys know, the quarter panel is a nightmare to replace.

I just got a call back from my shop, and they're saying that they would like to use the entire replacement panel supplied by BMW (seen in primer black).

This would require pulling the roof as well. He raised the concern with me that the roof could be damaged in the process and it's $6000 to replace (required by insurance to use a new part) and it's currently sold out with no ETA. This could also total my car.

His other suggestion was repairing the current piece by pulling it and filling it. I'm not happy with either option.

I suggested the repair seen on this melbourne red M3, which would involve cutting the existing panel and cutting the replacement part. It doesn't really look like it bears significant load, so I'm thinking this would be fine, any thoughts? The shop is good and the owner also has an E92 M3, but he said he won't guarantee the structural integrity, just the fit and finish.

I'm coming to you guys because this is the most knowledgeable pocket of the forum.

Thanks





Quote:
Originally Posted by chocstraw View Post
Does anyone know if the rear quarter panel body shell is a structural member or not?

I recently took a moderate hit to my quarter panel, and it's in the shop for bodywork. Luckily there's no mechanical damage, but as I'm sure you guys know, the quarter panel is a nightmare to replace.

I just got a call back from my shop, and they're saying that they would like to use the entire replacement panel supplied by BMW (seen in primer black).

This would require pulling the roof as well. He raised the concern with me that the roof could be damaged in the process and it's $6000 to replace (required by insurance to use a new part) and it's currently sold out with no ETA. This could also total my car.

His other suggestion was repairing the current piece by pulling it and filling it. I'm not happy with either option.

I suggested the repair seen on this melbourne red M3, which would involve cutting the existing panel and cutting the replacement part. It doesn't really look like it bears significant load, so I'm thinking this would be fine, any thoughts? The shop is good and the owner also has an E92 M3, but he said he won't guarantee the structural integrity, just the fit and finish.

I'm coming to you guys because this is the most knowledgeable pocket of the forum.

Thanks

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View post on imgur.com
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Feel free to send me a message if you like. I run a collision center. I wouldn't say the outer skin of a quarter panel is structural although it is important to follow oem procedures for replacement. I Would not allow them to section it in where the roof rail is requiring the roof to be removed. However I don't know what your damage looks like and if it's damaged up there. The least intrusive for repairs the better. If the body shop is good I would follow their guidance. However if you damage for the quarter is lower I would be concerned about them saying the roof needs to be removed.
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      10-11-2021, 09:26 PM   #19717
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chocstraw View Post
Does anyone know if the rear quarter panel body shell is a structural member or not?

I recently took a moderate hit to my quarter panel, and it's in the shop for bodywork. Luckily there's no mechanical damage, but as I'm sure you guys know, the quarter panel is a nightmare to replace.

I just got a call back from my shop, and they're saying that they would like to use the entire replacement panel supplied by BMW (seen in primer black).

This would require pulling the roof as well. He raised the concern with me that the roof could be damaged in the process and it's $6000 to replace (required by insurance to use a new part) and it's currently sold out with no ETA. This could also total my car.

His other suggestion was repairing the current piece by pulling it and filling it. I'm not happy with either option.

I suggested the repair seen on this melbourne red M3, which would involve cutting the existing panel and cutting the replacement part. It doesn't really look like it bears significant load, so I'm thinking this would be fine, any thoughts? The shop is good and the owner also has an E92 M3, but he said he won't guarantee the structural integrity, just the fit and finish.

I'm coming to you guys because this is the most knowledgeable pocket of the forum.

Thanks





What you pictured is definitely doable. Still a substantial amount of work cutting perfectly, welding, grinding, smoothing... but, it's doable. That's exactly how I did my 1M conversion.



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      10-11-2021, 09:30 PM   #19718
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbo_joe View Post
Had to share this dope shot of the E92 gang taking P1 and P2 in TT3 at Hyperfest
kayha12 chasing me down at VIR

Sunroof gang gang
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      10-11-2021, 10:07 PM   #19719
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leftfootbr8king View Post
Sunroof gang gang
Both running BW carbon deletes lol
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      10-11-2021, 10:22 PM   #19720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbo_joe View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by leftfootbr8king View Post
Sunroof gang gang
Both running BW carbon deletes lol
I support this message!
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      10-12-2021, 02:38 AM   #19721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by berns View Post
What you pictured is definitely doable. Still a substantial amount of work cutting perfectly, welding, grinding, smoothing... but, it's doable. That's exactly how I did my 1M conversion.





This is the damage. I don't want the existing panel repaired because it has buckled a bit under the passenger rear window and it seems too involved.

Thank you for this image, I'm including it in my email to them as to how I want it done. I'm keeping it simple because the supply chain is already fucked enough as-is, I do NOT want to wait for any other parts to come in.

I'm at 116k miles and don't ever plan on selling it so I'm fine with everything. Would not recommend mineral white to anyone though, total bitch to match and very expensive paint. The previous owner had repainted the other quarter panel and it has really bad dieback, thankfully the shop agreed to wrap a repaint of that panel into the insurance cost as well. Oh well, could be worse.
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      10-12-2021, 07:58 PM   #19722
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does anyone have any exceptionally good technique in removing the stuck on/painted sound deadening on the rear seat and center console hump? any adhesive removers that won't remove paint you're fond of?
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      10-12-2021, 08:30 PM   #19723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
does anyone have any exceptionally good technique in removing the stuck on/painted sound deadening on the rear seat and center console hump? any adhesive removers that won't remove paint you're fond of?
Haven’t done it myself, but believe the shop I take my car to would use dry ice when they were building race cars and removing the sound deadening. Not sure of the method or technique, but I’m sure there’s a YouTube video out there on it.
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      10-12-2021, 08:40 PM   #19724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E34nication View Post
Haven’t done it myself, but believe the shop I take my car to would use dry ice when they were building race cars and removing the sound deadening. Not sure of the method or technique, but I’m sure there’s a YouTube video out there on it.
i've seen that and i'm not sure i want to mess with it. lots of the deadening is on a near vertical surface or a slant.

i was kinda thinking of heating it up a little and tapping it with a chisel, then using adhesive remover for any residue.

this might be a really good application for that dry ice blasting.
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      10-12-2021, 09:39 PM   #19725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by E34nication View Post
Haven't done it myself, but believe the shop I take my car to would use dry ice when they were building race cars and removing the sound deadening. Not sure of the method or technique, but I'm sure there's a YouTube video out there on it.
i've seen that and i'm not sure i want to mess with it. lots of the deadening is on a near vertical surface or a slant.

i was kinda thinking of heating it up a little and tapping it with a chisel, then using adhesive remover for any residue.

this might be a really good application for that dry ice blasting.
Heat gun to soften it up, plastic scraper, then 3M adhesive remover to get the residue. I think you'll be surprised how quickly it goes.
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      10-13-2021, 10:26 AM   #19726
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I just used Goof Off, or whichever one that comes in the aluminum can, not the plastic bottle. Always get Goo Gone and Goof Off mixed up. Works out well and does not remove paint



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      10-13-2021, 02:35 PM   #19727
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chocstraw View Post


This is the damage. I don't want the existing panel repaired because it has buckled a bit under the passenger rear window and it seems too involved.

Thank you for this image, I'm including it in my email to them as to how I want it done. I'm keeping it simple because the supply chain is already fucked enough as-is, I do NOT want to wait for any other parts to come in.

I'm at 116k miles and don't ever plan on selling it so I'm fine with everything. Would not recommend mineral white to anyone though, total bitch to match and very expensive paint. The previous owner had repainted the other quarter panel and it has really bad dieback, thankfully the shop agreed to wrap a repaint of that panel into the insurance cost as well. Oh well, could be worse.
from my own experience, if you want to get it fixed properly you want to do that entire replacement rear quarter panel.

can the current damage you have be fixed? absolutely? will it require filler? yes, but minimal. as long as the shop has experience in metallurgy the guy can reshape all of that. will it have the same strength as before? absolutely not. which is why the full replacement is better.
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      10-13-2021, 03:25 PM   #19728
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe View Post
from my own experience, if you want to get it fixed properly you want to do that entire replacement rear quarter panel.

can the current damage you have be fixed? absolutely? will it require filler? yes, but minimal. as long as the shop has experience in metallurgy the guy can reshape all of that. will it have the same strength as before? absolutely not. which is why the full replacement is better.
Yeah I requested that they do it exactly like that 1M conversion, it seems like the best balance of a more complete repair while still keeping it relatively simply. Pulling the roof is a dumb idea.
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      10-13-2021, 11:46 PM   #19729
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Originally Posted by Bartledoo View Post
Cool to see another E9X at the Ridge. The crowd is growing!
Yea. It's getting tough keeping the car stock when I am now cording front tires every ~3-4 events. I finally got into 1:56:4 yesterday and, based on the data, there are at least 1.2 seconds of low-hanging fruit that I can improve on. Slowly inching toward the 154 goal that you set for my car. Hope a rainy winter of simulator time can make me faster next year.
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      10-14-2021, 12:30 AM   #19730
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rassilon View Post
Yea. It's getting tough keeping the car stock when I am now cording front tires every ~3-4 events. I finally got into 1:56:4 yesterday and, based on the data, there are at least 1.2 seconds of low-hanging fruit that I can improve on. Slowly inching toward the 154 goal that you set for my car. Hope a rainy winter of simulator time can make me faster next year.
Yea definitely go square with more camber and run RS4 or conti extremecontact Force if you want long lasting! I put a square set of 255 contis on my stock 986 boxster. Nice tire, and seems like they will last on track.
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      10-14-2021, 08:36 AM   #19731
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rassilon View Post
Yea. It's getting tough keeping the car stock when I am now cording front tires every ~3-4 events. I finally got into 1:56:4 yesterday and, based on the data, there are at least 1.2 seconds of low-hanging fruit that I can improve on. Slowly inching toward the 154 goal that you set for my car. Hope a rainy winter of simulator time can make me faster next year.

Are they cording due to not getting enough camber or something? Or is it maybe a technique thing? Or do some courses chew them up faster due to the pavement type? At a certain point you have to spend money to save money...a few hundred bucks for camber plates and a track alignment will pay for itself in fewer consumables.

If you can get a bigger tire in there, that would help. My big ole 315/335 setup can usually go about 30 HCs before they cord. If you assume 4 sessions per day, that obviously works out to about 7 or 8 days. The other bonus of a bigger tire is that it will take longer to overheat.
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      10-14-2021, 11:20 AM   #19732
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I had just been to Laguna Seca, so I guess this classifies as general chit chat.

What a piece of Motorsport heaven!

I'm no red-hot racer, only been to half dozen other tracks and the 2 big ones in Europe(Spa>Nurburgring Nordschleife) - but LS is a truly great track - so well connected, amazing elevation changes and has a great flow - there isn't one bad corner here!

If you're in the region or can make it here, I highly highly recommended. I'm not the first one to say it and wont certainly be the last.
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      10-14-2021, 12:21 PM   #19733
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Barring any significant delay to my brakes that I ordered from Essex two weeks ago, I should be at Laguna next weekend for the Speed District event. I'm super excited, it'll be my first time there.

Also bought the 3.45 differential from Diffsonline that Lang Racing was selling here, so looking forward to a new driving experience.
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      10-14-2021, 12:28 PM   #19734
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Manettino Envious, although I just did one for the first time very recently. The track is that amazing, you'll see.

The corkscrew was alright, but that Rainey curve is something else..
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