dying starter?

[romero1990]

I recently notice the car is taking 3-5 tries before starter actually turn the motor. When hitting the start, I can hear a click sound, supposedly the relay(?) is working. But not turning. Either I need to rest the car for a bit or try a few times then it would start.

the battery is about 2yr new so it shouldn't be the problem, also had the alternator tested when changing the battery which was good.

Is there any thing to check before I pull the trigger to replace the starter?

also while i'm replacing the starter, is there anything that are worth replacing while there. The car has 130K miles on it with pretty much everything stock.

thanks

[Ajolives]

Sounds like the starter, eventually it will just refuse to start at all, I recommend parking it in a place where you can work on it before it gives out.

Couple higher dollar items need to be removed to access the starter- ICV and TA's need to come out. Also you need to remove the plastic wire harness which requires unplugging the fuel injectors on one side IIRC. May be worth it to check out their condition (just replaced fuel injectors and O2 sensors at 150k and my car is noticeably smoother and more rev-happy).

[Redd]

Have u checked your ground straps?

[JPSurratt2005]

Are you getting any engine codes? Another member had his CAS module go out and was unable to start. Ground strap corrosion could also be an issue.

[tbuck]

The clicking is the solenoid on the starter itself. There generally are 2 things that will cause this and obviously if the solenoid or the starter motor is going bad that is one. The other is the lack of current sufficient to fully activate the solenoid. This could be a bad battery, bad alternator or bad cables as mentioned above. It could be nothing more than a corroded battery terminal that needs cleaning and retorquing or a ground strap that has broken or come loose.

You will obviously want to check the cables first, but if they are good then I would go to your local Advance Auto or AutoZone and get them to do a full electrical check again. Even nearly new the battery could have a bad cell, and they can see if the alternator is still putting out full amperage and check if the starter is drawing excessive current. Replacing the starter on these cars is not as easy as in most since the starter is in the valley with a ton of stuff to remove to get to it, so better to nail down exactly whats going on before digging in to that one.

[romero1990]

Originally Posted by Redd

Have u checked your ground straps?

I have not but also I don't know where/which to check

[romero1990]

Originally Posted by JPSurratt2005

Are you getting any engine codes? Another member had his CAS module go out and was unable to start. Ground strap corrosion could also be an issue.

I don't have code, I think. It's been lingering for a year, sometimes it works fine and other times were just delayed start. Now is like actually giving up

[romero1990]

Originally Posted by tbuck

The clicking is the solenoid on the starter itself. There generally are 2 things that will cause this and obviously if the solenoid or the starter motor is going bad that is one. The other is the lack of current sufficient to fully activate the solenoid. This could be a bad battery, bad alternator or bad cables as mentioned above. It could be nothing more than a corroded battery terminal that needs cleaning and retorquing or a ground strap that has broken or come loose.

You will obviously want to check the cables first, but if they are good then I would go to your local Advance Auto or AutoZone and get them to do a full electrical check again. Even nearly new the battery could have a bad cell, and they can see if the alternator is still putting out full amperage and check if the starter is drawing excessive current. Replacing the starter on these cars is not as easy as in most since the starter is in the valley with a ton of stuff to remove to get to it, so better to nail down exactly whats going on before digging in to that one.

Sounds good, I'll get the battery and alternator checked again to see if they are giving up

[tbuck]

Originally Posted by romero1990

I have not but also I don't know where/which to check

Here is a good post with some detail. It may very well be the starter but this is a good place to start. Good luck!

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1444544

[AndreDW]

I just unnecessarily replaced my starter last year. The car was getting power but not enough to actually engage the starter.

My issue ended up being the positive battery cable being corroded where it passes through the trunk and then under the car. If water leaks into your trunk it can pool in the battery compartment and corrode the cable. It's worth pulling the battery out and checking that connection before replacing the starter.

[romero1990]

I have a theory before pulling trigger on the starter. If the ground strap is making the fuss, meaning there is a bad returning path to battery for all the current. Then it should start right away with a jumper.
If it was the starter going bad, then the jumper won't help at all because it's all problems with the jumper motor

[romero1990]

Originally Posted by AndreDW

I just unnecessarily replaced my starter last year. The car was getting power but not enough to actually engage the starter.

My issue ended up being the positive battery cable being corroded where it passes through the trunk and then under the car. If water leaks into your trunk it can pool in the battery compartment and corrode the cable. It's worth pulling the battery out and checking that connection before replacing the starter.

Where do I look exactly for the battery cable issue? I think it was replaced from the recall

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by romero1990

Where do I look exactly for the battery cable issue? I think it was replaced from the recall

The part of the battery cable that was replaced in the recall is not the part that AndreDW is referring to. He's talking about the part very near the battery - the cable has to pass through the sheet metal of the battery compartment and there's a fitting at the bottom of the compartment. #12 in this diagram:


If the compartment fills with water because of a drain issue, the fitting/connectors will corrode. This happened to me but if you don't see water in there after slightly lifting the battery up this is most likely not your problem.

Ground strap corrosion has got to be the number one cause of starter issues in E9x vehicles. It's happened on both my 335 and my M3.

You can use your jumper cables to quickly and easily test both the positive lead from battery and the ground strap:

1) Ground strap: connect jumper cable from the engine block to chassis ground.
2) B+: connect jumper cable from battery positive terminal in trunk to jumper terminal in the engine compartment.

If it is the ground strap it will be visually corroded - just giving it a tug may cause it to fall apart. Here's a link to a good DIY:

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1444544

One suggestion about that DIY - the OEM strap is $40-$60. I bought a 12 inch battery cable from Autozone for $4 and it's been fine for two years.