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01-16-2021, 05:48 PM | #23 | |
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Typically it's not recommended to reuse crush washers, however, I was able to reuse mine by hand lapping both sides of each one with 400 grit sandpaper on a steel lapping plate. Also, inspect ALL mating surfaces for any nicks or scratches. Metal to metal sealing schemes are sensitive to surface finishes.
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01-16-2021, 08:41 PM | #24 |
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I checked again. Removing rad fan, belts, and thermo pulley to see everything and didn't see any visible leak. Also I've seen people say the banjo bolt (10) is a 19mm but all i had on the day of removal was a 22 etorx that was able to fit. So do i need a thin walled 22mm? I felt a little bit of fluid on the suction line which has the only BMW cert clips on it I used hose clamps due to not having the CST tool. My last plan of action is to drain the fluid from section (6) remove the pump entirely and check the clip holding item (6) on the pump.
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01-16-2021, 09:22 PM | #25 |
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I don't remember the size of the hex on the banjo bolt, but if it is 19mm, then a 3/4" socket will work just fine. .75" x 25.4 = 19.05mm.
I used an 24.1mm Oetiker clamp for my repair. When you get it back apart, and on the work bench, I recommend you closely inspect the hose for any splits or pinholes. Make sure to clock the entire hose assembly as close as possible, to the position it will live once mounted back on the car, PRIOR to tightening the clamp. We want to avoid over twisting the hose once everything is bolted back up to the engine.
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DrFerry6748.00 |
03-11-2021, 08:07 PM | #26 |
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Nice. Write up OP. Going to be doing this in a few days.
Is it necessary to replace the ps pump when it leaks? |
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03-11-2021, 11:35 PM | #27 | |
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But if it's leaking around the shaft or between the housing and end plate, well then you might want to replace it.
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03-12-2021, 12:13 AM | #28 | |
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Really appreciate it. I also cant find a good source about any PS DIY, hopefully your thread can be stickied. oh btw, I saw the belt goes under your PS pulley, which part number for the pulley did you use for replacement. I am researching which I would need (part # 002 or 041, or which Bosch part#) just in case it is the pump leaking. Last edited by cb1; 03-12-2021 at 12:23 AM.. Reason: Pulley belt |
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03-12-2021, 12:23 AM | #29 | ||
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My belt routing is UNDER the PS pulley.
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03-12-2021, 12:47 AM | #30 |
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03-12-2021, 08:29 AM | #31 | |
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03-17-2021, 09:33 AM | #32 |
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04-08-2021, 10:42 AM | #33 |
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How long is this install taking folks? I was quoted 5 hours a labor and wondering if its worth tackling myself or just having it done.
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04-08-2021, 10:45 AM | #34 |
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Took me no more than 2 hours. I suggest removing the rad fan and all cover under the car.
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04-08-2021, 10:50 AM | #35 |
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Exactly what I was hoping to hear! Thanks!
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04-08-2021, 11:48 AM | #36 |
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Cool man! Glad to help.
My steps are below if it helps, as far as I can remember. 1. Remove front under cover. 2. Remove skid plate. 3. Drain rad. 4. Remove hoses clipped to the bottom of the rad fan. I think it was like 4 clips. 5. Remove coolant reservoir. Gat rags. The bottom hose will have coolant. Move the 2 small hoses to clear the rad fan. 6. Remove the hose from the rads driver side. You can leave it connected to the water pump. This will help with removing the fan. 7. Unclip rad fan harness, remove torx from the rad fan top, passenger side. 8. Remove rad fan. Be sure to unclip the press clip on the driver side. 9. Take note or pictures of the belt routing. Depending on your build date, the belt can go under or above the ps pump pulley. 10. Release the belt tension for the ps pump belt. 11. Pump out ps fluid from the ps reservoir. 12. Follow the hose going to the bottom towards the pa pump. Its going to a connecter that has an aluminum cube. I forgot what it was called. 13. Get a small cup and shop rags for the next step. 14. Disconnect the one time use clamps with a screw driver. Put shop rags under it. Pull the hose and catch the ps fluid with the small cup. 15. I believe, from this point, its all unbolting. You might need to remove both oil lines from the oil filter housing to remove the banjo bolt from the side of the ps pump. Pm me if you have questions. |
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04-14-2021, 02:22 PM | #37 |
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Ok I've changed the pump, I went wheel lock to wheel lock pre and post start up but the pump is still whining like a Mofo. I'm afraid to let it keep running in case I'm not doing something right so I shut it down. Any help?
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04-14-2021, 02:32 PM | #38 | |
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https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=18425381
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04-14-2021, 02:38 PM | #39 | ||
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04-14-2021, 02:41 PM | #40 | |||
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04-14-2021, 02:46 PM | #41 | ||||
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04-14-2021, 03:28 PM | #42 | |||||
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But at least the air in the system would be purged. But if the dirty fluid or a clogged reservoir filter is what killed the pump in the first place, then I don't know why I would expect a different outcome? (Personally, I'd bite the bullet and get a new reservoir, with new filter, some rubber caps, a new hose clamp and do the full on Bushum procedure.)
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04-14-2021, 05:04 PM | #43 |
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The bimmerworld reservoir is really nice for flushes. I bought an extra 8an fitting and 8an cap so i can easily put a drain hose onto the return and cap the reservoir fitting. Don't have to fuss with the damn hose and clamp drama...
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Davisca4552219.50 DrFerry6748.00 |
04-14-2021, 06:08 PM | #44 | |
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I even considered teeing in a valve on the return path, that redirects flow from the return to the reservoir, to a separate drain hose. But then I told myself "Dude, I think you have some physiological issues to work out?"
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