Track forum general chit chat.

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by OG Shark

Ok so that is where it looks like they are getting the weight reduction - using a thinner gauge of steel than say the JP one (if the JP one is NASA & SCCA legal). Chromoly is stronger than DOM mild steel but they have the same weight if the thickness & diameter are the same. Where you would get the weight savings is if the ruling body allowed you to do to either a smaller diameter or thickness if you use chromoly over mild steel. This is more of a drag racing thing though - for instance the SCCA rules you posted up require the same diameter & thickness regardless of material used. That is why you see quite a few cages in road racing out of mild steel - cheaper and no weight penalty.

I'm not trying to say there is anything wrong with the cage you purchased - was just curious where they found they weight savings from.

Correct. My understanding is the inherent benefit of chromoly would be alloy is stronger therefore to get equal strength at smaller thickness. We'll see if I run into issues, again intent is TT not logbook race car.

[ThunderMoose]

Originally Posted by DRLane

Correct. My understanding is the inherent benefit of chromoly would be alloy is stronger therefore to get equal strength at smaller thickness. We'll see if I run into issues, again intent is TT not logbook race car.

For NASA TT you'd be fine. I have a half cage and they do not inspect. Can't say what SCCA looks at.

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by rhyary

Curious on half cage and in general bolt in cage.

Does it contribute to rigidness or is it only a safety device?

And what situation exactly it means to protect?

Yes and yes. There's already a bunch of threads on use, validity, disagreeing opinions, etc.

[OG Shark]

Originally Posted by DRLane

Correct. My understanding is the inherent benefit of chromoly would be alloy is stronger therefore to get equal strength at smaller thickness. We'll see if I run into issues, again intent is TT not logbook race car.

That makes more sense - saw the reference to the SCCA road racing GCR & thought you were using that as a guide

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by OG Shark

That makes more sense - saw the reference to the SCCA road racing GCR & thought you were using that as a guide

Yup just in response to folks inquires above. Thanks man!

[dparm]

Looking for objective information about some suspension companies that I know many of you currently run and have done so for years -- not anecdotal/subjective stuff like "I have X and it's good". Customer service, design philosophies, spare parts availability, etc. Heck, even stupid stuff like "the adjustment knob is shit and needs to be redesigned".

JRZ
MCS
Nitron
Tractive
Bilstein
Penske

This isn't really platform-specific so nuances about a specific application or ease of install aren't important. Thanks in advance.

[slcook54]

Originally Posted by dparm

Looking for objective information about some suspension companies that I know many of you currently run and have done so for years -- not anecdotal/subjective stuff like "I have X and it's good". Customer service, design philosophies, spare parts availability, etc. Heck, even stupid stuff like "the adjustment knob is shit and needs to be redesigned".

JRZ
MCS
Nitron
Tractive
Bilstein
Penske

This isn't really platform-specific so nuances about a specific application or ease of install aren't important. Thanks in advance.

Ohlins?

[Exclusivs]

AIM SOLO 2 DL guys; what are you pages looking like?

Page1: Lap Time (in single format) ?

Looking for some ideas from the seasoned AIM users. Thanks guys!

[dparm]

Originally Posted by slcook54

Ohlins?

Not available for my platform.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by Exclusivs

AIM SOLO 2 DL guys; what are you pages looking like?

Page1: Lap Time (in single format) ?

Looking for some ideas from the seasoned AIM users. Thanks guys!

The question is what do YOU need to know while on track to go faster? What would you like to know at any given moment during the lap to make an adjustment? It is easy to be distracted by those things, or to psych yourself out when "holy shit I'm 0.1 seconds up". It baffles me when I see these status pages full of shit like throttle position and brake pressure. Are people actually glancing over to know what their right foot is doing?

I'd keep it really simple. Lap time, difference to your PB, previous lap, and maybe one other vehicle health metric that might give you a warning to end the session early (e.g. high oil temp) -- which you should probably just set as an alarm anyway. Everything else can be analyzed later when you aren't trying to concentrate on driving the car.

The alarms/lights give a lot of flexibility and don't need to be used for shift lights. I have seen people configure them to show if they need to go down a gear when exiting a corner, for example.

[k_mann]

Originally Posted by dparm

Looking for objective information about some suspension companies that I know many of you currently run and have done so for years -- not anecdotal/subjective stuff like "I have X and it's good". Customer service, design philosophies, spare parts availability, etc. Heck, even stupid stuff like "the adjustment knob is shit and needs to be redesigned".

JRZ
MCS
Nitron
Tractive
Bilstein
Penske

This isn't really platform-specific so nuances about a specific application or ease of install aren't important. Thanks in advance.

I have a friend with penske 3 way remotes on his lotus exige. I thought the car drove fantastic...then again jumping into a lotus from an m3 doesn't give me a ton of say in how they performed. They were nicely made and the lotus guys seem to swear by them. Stateside it seems MCS is the be all end all lol

[dparm]

Originally Posted by aututto

I have a friend with penske 3 way remotes on his lotus exige. I thought the car drove fantastic...then again jumping into a lotus from an m3 doesn't give me a ton of say in how they performed. They were nicely made and the lotus guys seem to swear by them. Stateside it seems MCS is the be all end all lol

Penske is used on lots of race cars which lends a ton of credibility, in my book.

I get that sense about MCS being king of the hill too, but I've not really heard the "why" or objective comparison.

[fsmtnbiker]

Got the M3 on a dyno finally after the off-season upgrades. Very curious to see if I can keep this thing cool on track this season. I'm sure it will take some work.

[slcook54]

Originally Posted by fsmtnbiker

Got the M3 on a dyno finally after the off-season upgrades. Very curious to see if I can keep this thing cool on track this season. I'm sure it will take some work.

Can't wait to see your new Laguna time. 1:33's?

[ThunderMoose]

Originally Posted by fsmtnbiker

Got the M3 on a dyno finally after the off-season upgrades. Very curious to see if I can keep this thing cool on track this season. I'm sure it will take some work.

I am guessing you won't be in TT3 any longer

[Exclusivs]

Originally Posted by dparm

The question is what do YOU need to know while on track to go faster? What would you like to know at any given moment during the lap to make an adjustment? It is easy to be distracted by those things, or to psych yourself out when "holy shit I'm 0.1 seconds up". It baffles me when I see these status pages full of shit like throttle position and brake pressure. Are people actually glancing over to know what their right foot is doing?

I'd keep it really simple. Lap time, difference to your PB, previous lap, and maybe one other vehicle health metric that might give you a warning to end the session early (e.g. high oil temp) -- which you should probably just set as an alarm anyway. Everything else can be analyzed later when you aren't trying to concentrate on driving the car.

The alarms/lights give a lot of flexibility and don't need to be used for shift lights. I have seen people configure them to show if they need to go down a gear when exiting a corner, for example.

This is a fantastic approach, and extremely helpful. Thank you Dparm! Aligns exactly which what I was thinking, just wanted to check with guys if there were any MUST DO's to include.

[fsmtnbiker]

Originally Posted by ThunderMoose

I am guessing you won't be in TT3 any longer

Definitely not. Its a real spicy TT2 car on 100TW's though, which I am tempted to try. Otherwise it's an also ran TT1 car or I could dyno again with the bigger pulley and probably get comfortably into 2 with sticky tires.

[Kelse92]

Originally Posted by fsmtnbiker

Definitely not. Its a real spicy TT2 car on 100TW's though, which I am tempted to try. Otherwise it's an also ran TT1 car or I could dyno again with the bigger pulley and probably get comfortably into 2 with sticky tires.

Sounds like Goodyear Supercar3R time!

[fsmtnbiker]

Originally Posted by Kelse92

Sounds like Goodyear Supercar3R time!

That’s what I’m thinking. Just trying to decide how much tire I’m gonna try to fit...

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by fsmtnbiker

That's what I'm thinking. Just trying to decide how much tire I'm gonna try to fit...

Not the best options in 18s. Would you run 19s?

[fsmtnbiker]

I’m okay with the 285/30-18, but it would be nice to get more rear tire under the car.

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by fsmtnbiker

I'm okay with the 285/30-18, but it would be nice to get more rear tire under the car.

You think 3R over A052? I recognize technically Yoko is 200 but figured there were comparable plus larger sizes.