M3 0-60 Times

[Marrkvp]

Originally Posted by Nicks_M3

Summer tires, not the best thing, not the worst I've ever driven on. Dealer put on cheapish tires when I bought the car. Never bothered to change them because well, no one will buy them LOL.

Get proper tires , and then try this again. Bet you’ll have way better results. Cheap Chinese tires aren’t gonna help.

Regards
The Sausage Strokers

[pbonsalb]

Burn up the cheap tires first. Might as well have some fun.

[Nicks_M3]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

Burn up the cheap tires first. Might as well have some fun.

Yup that's the plan, no F**** given on these tires. Shred them for the next couple seasons then get a nice high performance street tire.

[Nicks_M3]

Originally Posted by Marrkvp

Get proper tires , and then try this again. Bet you’ll have way better results. Cheap Chinese tires aren’t gonna help.

Regards
The Sausage Strokers

You too now

[NYE92M3ZCP]

cheap tires? LOL no wonder you got 4.6s. I bet you could do 3.9-4.2 constantly with good rubber.

[pbonsalb]

Originally Posted by Nicks_M3

Yup that's the plan, no F**** given on these tires. Shred them for the next couple seasons then get a nice high performance street tire.

A couple of seasons? Way too long to live with crappy tires. I get about 12k out of my rears — Michelin PSS or Conti EC Sport, and I don’t leave a lot of rubber. If you are a stop light drag racer, you should burn them up in a month or two.

[Nicks_M3]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

A couple of seasons? Way too long to live with crappy tires. I get about 12k out of my rears — Michelin PSS or Conti EC Sport, and I don’t leave a lot of rubber. If you are a stop light drag racer, you should burn them up in a month or two.

Honestly I barely drive the car. But when I do I make sure I'm burning some rubber

[pbonsalb]

Mine is my primary driver and winter beater since I don’t drive my turbo E36M3 much in the winter. I walk to work so I drive only about 10-12k miles between the two cars.

[Longboarder]

DCT trans bone stock pump 91 no launch control. Does similar times (4.0 to 4.1 with 1 foot rollout) all day every day just flooring it off idle from a stop.

This is such an easy car to launch but you need good tires - I'm on Cup2's running 27psi cold rears with Euro MDM.

[wfdeacon88]

Local custom tune is one of the factors, perhaps? the 60 time should be near 4 seconds with bolt on's...

[pbonsalb]

There is not a lot “a local custom tune” will do that is any better than what a tune proven to work on hundreds of these cars will do.

[Longboarder]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

There is not a lot "a local custom tune" will do that is any better than what a tune proven to work on hundreds of these cars will do.

Agree and personally think the free route of deflating rear tires down to 25-27psi cold will do loads more for 0-60 times on this forum than a $6k FBO package.

[Nicks_M3]

So I decided to install alpine tune and gts dct software today. All I can say is wow is the car noticeably faster now. I decided to do some 0-60 runs again this evening and have posted some of my better times below. I'll post a full review of the tune and my experience with Alex in another thread once I get some miles on it

I know grip off the line is important but even with traction off is there a reason why the rpms take almost a second before they actually build? I feel all the time to be had on the launch is right there in that first second.

So I was only able to get a proper launch using launch control once. I guess I have to take my foot off the brake then the flag comes up but then the car will roll backwards or forwards if the road isn't perfectly flat and the timer will start. The only time I got it to launch was just a big white cloud of smoke and no go.

[Longboarder]

Originally Posted by Nicks_M3

So I decided to install alpine tune and gts dct software today. All I can say is wow is the car noticeably faster now. I decided to do some 0-60 runs again this evening and have posted some of my better times below. I'll post a full review of the tune and my experience with Alex in another thread once I get some miles on it

I know grip off the line is important but even with traction off is there a reason why the rpms take almost a second before they actually build? I feel all the time to be had on the launch is right there in that first second.

So I was only able to get a proper launch using launch control once. I guess I have to take my foot off the brake then the flag comes up but then the car will roll backwards or forwards if the road isn't perfectly flat and the timer will start. The only time I got it to launch was just a big white cloud of smoke and no go.

I have found that the GTS software makes the car much more difficult to launch. The GTS software is made for the 4.4 liter GTS motor and is helpful on supercharged cars to prevent the clutches from slipping. I had the Alpine stg 1 Tune and GTS software and can tell you yes there is some more power however the GTS software changed how the clutches are engaged on launch and I had a hard time. Now I'm back to stock with just Euro MDM and I do 0-60 in 4.0 (with 1 foot rollout) all day long.

I use the "floorboard" method of just smashing the pedal hard to the floor and the revs jump to 2,500 and the DCT dumps the clutches and takes off no spin with good tires at 25-30psi.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by Longboarder

I have found that the GTS software makes the car much more difficult to launch. The GTS software is made for the 4.4 liter GTS motor and is helpful on supercharged cars to prevent the clutches from slipping. I had the Alpine stg 1 Tune and GTS software and can tell you yes there is some more power however the GTS software changed how the clutches are engaged on launch and I had a hard time. Now I'm back to stock with just Euro MDM and I do 0-60 in 4.0 (with 1 foot rollout) all day long.

I use the "floorboard" method of just smashing the pedal hard to the floor and the revs jump to 2,500 and the DCT dumps the clutches and takes off no spin with good tires at 25-30psi.

And you shift manually or let the DCT do the job? Getting close to red line without touching the stop can be costly. Obviously you have loads of experience though.

[Longboarder]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

And you shift manually or let the DCT do the job? Getting close to red line without touching the stop can be costly. Obviously you have loads of experience though.

Yes pull the paddle manually around 8k on the 1-2 shift. I've hit fuel cut too many times trying to time it perfectly. And even if I do get it perfect at 8300 it doest go any quicker so not worth it.

[akkando]

Originally Posted by Longboarder

Yes pull the paddle manually around 8k on the 1-2 shift. I've hit fuel cut too many times trying to time it perfectly. And even if I do get it perfect at 8300 it doest go any quicker so not worth it.

I guess an 8600 redline would give you more leeway here.

[Longboarder]

Originally Posted by akkando

I guess an 8600 redline would give you more leeway here.

Yeah absolutely. I purchased and installed the Alpine Stg 1 tune with a 8600 fuel cut but removed it recently to get smogged. There are some aspects of the daily drivability of the stock tune that I like better. With a tune and primary cat delete I'm sure it would be a high 3 second (maybe mid 3) zero to 60 car. But i have another car that does 2.2 seconds so I'm not trying to make the M3 any faster.

[Nicks_M3]

Originally Posted by Longboarder

Yeah absolutely. I purchased and installed the Alpine Stg 1 tune with a 8600 fuel cut but removed it recently to get smogged. There are some aspects of the daily drivability of the stock tune that I like better. With a tune and primary cat delete I'm sure it would be a high 3 second (maybe mid 3) zero to 60 car. But i have another car that does 2.2 seconds so I'm not trying to make the M3 any faster.

New best time for me. 4.55, dropped psi to 30 rears and did a 4.55 run with a passenger. Feel like I could maybe slightly improve on that time.

Found that the best runs were done with traction fully off and just flooring it. Could probably slightly ease off the throttle from 1st to 2nd to prevent wheel spin but that's for another day.

Safe to say my passenger was most impressed with the new tune. Last time we were out we were consistently running 5 second 0-60 with a best time of 4.9. Now we were running 4.7 over 5 or so runs with a 4.55 best.

[Longboarder]

Originally Posted by Nicks_M3

New best time for me. 4.55, dropped psi to 30 rears and did a 4.55 run with a passenger. Feel like I could maybe slightly improve on that time.

Found that the best runs were done with traction fully off and just flooring it. Could probably slightly ease off the throttle from 1st to 2nd to prevent wheel spin but that's for another day.

Safe to say my passenger was most impressed with the new tune. Last time we were out we were consistently running 5 second 0-60 with a best time of 4.9. Now we were running 4.7 over 5 or so runs with a 4.55 best.

Nice improvement. I just checked and my cold tire pressure is 25psi. I would think no passenger and further reducing rear tire pressure to 25 would drop 2-3 tenths off your current best.

[Nicks_M3]

Originally Posted by Longboarder

Nice improvement. I just checked and my cold tire pressure is 25psi. I would think no passenger and further reducing rear tire pressure to 25 would drop 2-3 tenths off your current best.

Dropping 2 tenths on average was pretty significant especially after just getting a proper tune done. All the data is logged so when I decide to post a review of the tune I may include before and after averages as proof of how significant it actually was.

I may drop psi to below 30 and do some runs on my own this afternoon. Currently looking for used radial tires as well

[Longboarder]

Originally Posted by Nicks_M3

Dropping 2 tenths on average was pretty significant especially after just getting a proper tune done. All the data is logged so when I decide to post a review of the tune I may include before and after averages as proof of how significant it actually was.

I may drop psi to below 30 and do some runs on my own this afternoon. Currently looking for used radial tires as well

I'm not familiar with your data logger but it looks like it's measuring the "actual" 0-60 and doesnt account for the 1-foot rollout.

My dragy shows both which gives about a 3-tenths improvement using the rollout. So that would mean your best so far is around 4.25. I'm confident you can drop a couple tenths but it might take new tires like PS4S.

U say that you are still getting wheel spin - I have found that DSC off always causes too much wheel spin unless you have drag radials at a prepped dragstrip. And on the street with street tires, I have also found too much traction/brake intervention on launch on all other settings except MDM (Euro version only - the US MDM intervenes too much).

The best method is DCT drivelogic in S5, MDM on and just slam the accel pedal down. The car will rev up and drop the clutches at a fairly low RPM. Sometimes the car creeps forward a few inches before it takes off and it will mess up the 0-60 so I will sometimes keep my left foot on the brake very gently until just after I feel the clutches drop.

I should give it a try as I'm curious how low I can go on a stock car. I've only measured this car a couple times out of curiosity and after doing 4.0 a few times in a row I was pretty satisfied. But I bet if I lowered rear tire pressure to low 20's and found a good surface I could dip into the 3's.

Good luck.