Track forum general chit chat.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney

I'm running studs from FCP Euro, with the intention to replace them every year.

What is the proper maintenance and safety routine to run these? I'm an avid mechanic but I don't think I realized the failure risk was so high on these. They are installed correctly and torqued accurately but I haven't done anything since I installed them other than visual checks.

Since I just replaced wheels, I'm not running spacers so I don't need to run studs. Should I go back to wheel bolts? The studs look cool and are nice for wheel changes.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/90m...rs/reviews/new

The proper method to run studs is:

-Buy the top shelf studs. Bimmerworld race, MSI, whatever
-Replace every 6 months for serious tracking, every year for semiserious

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by Bartledoo

I'm too scared of any 12mm studs so I'm just going to keep using the bolts until I pony up for the 14mm fancy shit. Haven't heard of any widespread bolt failures, but maybe that's because all the trackies switch to studs immediately and I'm just late to the party?

Bolts also break. They are not a failsafe solution

When Hyundai was testing their VelosterN at the Ring they started breaking bolts and had to switch to different ones. Imagine how much less stress that car has on street tires than an E9X on slicks.

I think bigjae1976 has seen two cars lose wheels while using bolts

[evilspiritM3]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

I have apex studs and I'm a little worried with how they are aging. They have this white crap like oxidation coming off of them.
I'm about due for a change but I think I might change them early.

Yeah - can't hurt to change them out. Way better than the alternative.

I was lucky it happened in a slow corner and I just skidded into some soft dirt. I was able to drill out the broken studs (inside the hub) and put the wheel back on and drive it back into my trailer. Rotor and hub are shot, and some body work and all the under tray components. Hopefully everything else is ok. Looking much more closely at the core4 14mm press in hubs now.

It was weird because when it happened I knew immediately what it was- which was confirmed as I watched my wheel rolling off into the brush near the fence line.

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

The proper method to run studs is:

-Buy the top shelf studs. Bimmerworld race, MSI, whatever
-Replace every 6 months for serious tracking, every year for semiserious

Studs are for track/racing and should procured from a racing shop like MSI.

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

The proper method to run studs is:

-Buy the top shelf studs. Bimmerworld race, MSI, whatever
-Replace every 6 months for serious tracking, every year for semiserious

Is it prudent to buy a stud tool for proper and controlled installation?

There was info about snap-on tool but sith the concern about the bullnose MSI studs

[Bartledoo]

Have any 6mt drivers upgraded their brake pedal? I didn't have a single issue with mine last season. But back at the track this weekend I nearly missed and/or slipped off the brake pedal multiple times. So much so that I was consciously placing my foot on the brake every time, where it was completely subconscious before. I'm guessing it's because I have long feet and I was on a stock seat (very high) before, where my heel was on the floor much further back from the pedal, and now I am on BK direct mounts to my heel is much closer to the pedal and the ball/toe of my foot is much higher, because of the large change in leg angle.

Edit: ordered the BW pedals. Just when I thought I was done for a bit... I'm never done. Also seems like these NT01 aren't going to last as long as before lol. -2.8 front camber isn't enough with my setup either.

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

Bolts also break. They are not a failsafe solution

When Hyundai was testing their VelosterN at the Ring they started breaking bolts and had to switch to different ones. Imagine how much less stress that car has on street tires than an E9X on slicks.

I think bigjae1976 has seen two cars lose wheels while using bolts

Correct. I've only broken 1 stud using them since 2008 on 3 different cars. Bought them from Vorshlag, Turner, and BW.

I've said a stud is a stud but the Apex stud is the only one I've broken. Is Apex crap? Can't prove that but I went back to Vorshlags.

[dparm]

I'm really thinking it's time to get a daily. Ideally I want something that's low-hassle, comfortable, can haul some stuff around as needed, but isn't totally soulless / doesn't feel like a rental car. To be clear, I haven't driven any of these yet but have read some reviews and walked dealer lots to get up close.

The C43 is kind of a stretch so I'm thinking I'd just lease it because I rarely keep cars longer than 3 years. Before anyone asks, yes, I considered an M340i but I don't like the new instrument cluster and the price is just too high.

Does anyone have a lot of experience with any of these cars?


Accord 2.0T Touring
Plus: handsome, roomy, will run forever, faster than expected, every safety option you can think of
Con: FWD, dime-a-dozen, no options to pick from, prices the same everywhere
$34k

Genesis G70 3.3T
Plus: great chassis, RWD, likely to be reliable, premium interior, really fast, tons of equipment
Con: styling is so-so, some cheap Hyundai bits, interior room only average
$40k

Volkswagen GTI S
Plus: roomy, decent MPG, tossable, consistent award winner
Con: FWD, unknown reliability, meh interior
$30k

Mercedes AMG C43 (lease?)
Plus: fast, AWD, great interior, sleeper, loaded with tech
Con: pricey, interior space not huge, so-so infotainment
$60k

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

I carry 4-6 wheels in the car so I don't run into wheel issues. It's a nice advantage of our M3s being based on regular 3 series

That still requires more wheels, whether you carry them or have them available at home.

My road set (good for a wet day) and my track set. Normally, the front won't last as long as the rear. So at the minimum this requires two more fronts.

Since I have two tracks 70 minutes from my house, I am at home every night, and can change to the next set or just the front when I get home and before dinner. For the second day, I am good to go at 6am after coffee and oatmeal. Driver meeting at 8:30am no problem.

When I start putting NJMP and WGI on my calendar, I will have to figure out what to do.

[b4hand]

Originally Posted by dparm

I'm really thinking it's time to get a daily. Ideally I want something that's low-hassle, comfortable, can haul some stuff around as needed, but isn't totally soulless / doesn't feel like a rental car. To be clear, I haven't driven any of these yet but have read some reviews and walked dealer lots to get up close.

The C43 is kind of a stretch so I'm thinking I'd just lease it because I rarely keep cars longer than 3 years. Before anyone asks, yes, I considered an M340i but I don't like the new instrument cluster and the price is just too high.

Does anyone have a lot of experience with any of these cars?


Accord 2.0T Touring
Plus: handsome, roomy, will run forever, faster than expected, every safety option you can think of
Con: FWD, dime-a-dozen, no options to pick from, prices the same everywhere
$34k

Genesis G70 3.3T
Plus: great chassis, RWD, likely to be reliable, premium interior, really fast, tons of equipment
Con: styling is so-so, some cheap Hyundai bits, interior room only average
$40k

Volkswagen GTI S
Plus: roomy, decent MPG, tossable, consistent award winner
Con: FWD, unknown reliability, meh interior
$30k

Mercedes AMG C43 (lease?)
Plus: fast, AWD, great interior, sleeper, loaded with tech
Con: pricey, interior space not huge, so-so infotainment
$60k

Get an SUV, you could eventually tow the car and have more room for racecar crap

[Montaver]

Originally Posted by dparm

I'm really thinking it's time to get a daily. Ideally I want something that's low-hassle, comfortable, can haul some stuff around as needed, but isn't totally soulless / doesn't feel like a rental car. To be clear, I haven't driven any of these yet but have read some reviews and walked dealer lots to get up close.

The C43 is kind of a stretch so I'm thinking I'd just lease it because I rarely keep cars longer than 3 years. Before anyone asks, yes, I considered an M340i but I don't like the new instrument cluster and the price is just too high.

Does anyone have a lot of experience with any of these cars?


Accord 2.0T Touring
Plus: handsome, roomy, will run forever, faster than expected, every safety option you can think of
Con: FWD, dime-a-dozen, no options to pick from, prices the same everywhere
$34k

Genesis G70 3.3T
Plus: great chassis, RWD, likely to be reliable, premium interior, really fast, tons of equipment
Con: styling is so-so, some cheap Hyundai bits, interior room only average
$40k

Volkswagen GTI S
Plus: roomy, decent MPG, tossable, consistent award winner
Con: FWD, unknown reliability, meh interior
$30k

Mercedes AMG C43 (lease?)
Plus: fast, AWD, great interior, sleeper, loaded with tech
Con: pricey, interior space not huge, so-so infotainment
$60k

From that list I'd get the GTI, my brother has a MK7 GTI as his daily and it's excellent. Fun to drive, manual trans, perfect size, good power, very reliable, decent fuel mileage, decent sound system and nicely refined. The seats in particular are great, and I actually think the interior quality is more than good enough. I'd happily daily one. If you want a bit more shove go for the R.

[roastbeef]

Smart car.

[tsk94]

Originally Posted by Montaver

From that list I'd get the GTI, my brother has a MK7 GTI as his daily and it's excellent. Fun to drive, manual trans, perfect size, good power, very reliable, decent fuel mileage, decent sound system and nicely refined. The seats in particular are great, and I actually think the interior quality is more than good enough. I'd happily daily one. If you want a bit more shove go for the R.

Both the MK7/7.5 GTI and R are excellent cars. They drive great, are a good size, practical being a hatchback and for the most part very reliable. That gets my vote.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by rhyary

That still requires more wheels, whether you carry them or have them available at home.

My road set (good for a wet day) and my track set. Normally, the front won't last as long as the rear. So at the minimum this requires two more fronts.

Since I have two tracks 70 minutes from my house, I am at home every night, and can change to the next set or just the front when I get home and before dinner. For the second day, I am good to go at 6am after coffee and oatmeal. Driver meeting at 8:30am no problem.

When I start putting NJMP and WGI on my calendar, I will have to figure out what to do.

Wgi has a tire/mechanic shop right on premises. You can have tires shipped to them.
But WGI won't eat a set of tires in a single weekend so you should be able to
WGI>>>>>>NJMP

[roastbeef]

This doesn't warrant a new thread, so I'll ask it here- anyone know if a company that could do space grey metallic in a can of spray paint?

[tsk94]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

This doesn't warrant a new thread, so I'll ask it here- anyone know if a company that could do space grey metallic in a can of spray paint?

Maybe not all that helpful. But the bodyshop I've gotten paint from to spray my car offers the option to put it in a spray can as well. Perhaps some well-known European body shops in your area can do the same?

Not sure if there is somewhere online that sells it directly though..

[dparm]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

This doesn't warrant a new thread, so I'll ask it here- anyone know if a company that could do space grey metallic in a can of spray paint?

Ask some local body shops. Just a fair warning that if you only give them the paint code, it's not going to match. I'm not sure what you're planning to use it for, but if you spray it alongside existing paint, you will notice the difference. Metallic paints are twice as bad as a regular gloss paint.

[roastbeef]

It's just for misc interior tabs I want to knock off. Nothing special.

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

This doesn't warrant a new thread, so I'll ask it here- anyone know if a company that could do space grey metallic in a can of spray paint?

And how is this track related?

🤣

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

And how is this track related?

🤣

lil touch-ups to chisel/grinding interior bits for race car lightness?

i want to knock off the rear seat bumps and a couple other things and then do a quick pshhht pshhht with a rattle can.

[Kelse92]

Originally Posted by evilspiritM3

-5th session today
-right hand turn at cotton corners
-12mm APEX studs
-Installed them last winter
-torque was checked about 45 min before (not hot)

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

Correct. I've only broken 1 stud using them since 2008 on 3 different cars. Bought them from Vorshlag, Turner, and BW.

I've said a stud is a stud but the Apex stud is the only one I've broken. Is Apex crap? Can't prove that but I went back to Vorshlags.

I'm just catching up on this thread tonight. And I hate to bash a vendor especially because I absolutely love their wheels... But the Apex studs are absolutely not meant for track use.
I broke two in March on the same corner on the set that I installed in December, and another one on the same corner that was still the same brand yesterday while torquing the wheels down. I have a feeling the brand WhiteM3EMC talks about in his build thread is the same...

All I'm saying is I'm buying the BW ones now, and thinking about doing the Core4 Press-in's with new hubs soon too.

[dparm]

Get MSI studs or go back to OEM bolts. /thread