Track forum general chit chat.

[XKxRome0ox]

Originally Posted by OG Shark

If I was on a track that had spots that rough I would likely just keep it on comfort the whole time. We have a track like that here and it did make a difference - not much but the headache after the session would be a bit less severe. But if you see a benefit from being able to run stiffer through parts and have suitable opportunities to switch back & forth and are comfortable doing so then why not. Personally I want to limit my interaction with anything outside of the steering wheel as much as possible, but to each his own. Unless its the radio & looking for a better song - that's perfectly acceptable in my book.

Another thing - when I'm harnessed in tight & have the Hans on I could not see the EDC control button & would not be able to tell what setting it was on while driving. If running 3pt though that is probably not an issue.

if you really wanted to do a quick switch without needing to look down ...
hit the M button on the steering wheel? and make sure your M setting is set up the way you want to accomplish this
at least you would be able to confirm the setting change on the dash without having to look down

just an idea

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by Ximian

For those of you with cars still equipped with functional EDC - do you switch to the comfort setting on bumpy parts of the track or leave it stiff all the way around?

When i had edc on the track cars i'd leave it on full stiff. As the car is ZCP it'll adjust

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by XKxRome0ox

if you really wanted to do a quick switch without needing to look down ...
hit the M button on the steering wheel? and make sure your M setting is set up the way you want to accomplish this
at least you would be able to confirm the setting change on the dash without having to look down

just an idea

It was my plan to use the "M button" on the steering wheel and have it configured only to switch EDC between comfort and full stiff.

Normally, I leave it full stiff but BIR turn 1 is a bumpy >100 MPH banked corner so I'd like some extra stability if I can get it for free. I haven't been able to try it but next trip is first week in July if it doesn't get cancelled.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by Bartledoo

This is the site I always use, rather than realoem.
http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/51377119178

I haven't seen any wonky weights on it before. I always assumed the had the same data as realoem though.

so there is a solid 12lbs to save with just the rear quarters and rear window from that company. and its high weight, too. pretty cool, thanks for that link.

[roastbeef]

turbo_joe we have very very similar cars. lol

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by rhyary

Tire sizes and heat dissipation question.

One of the main benefit of larger tires, in addition to more mechanical grip, is its ability to dissipate heat (not overheating).

So the questions is which size dissipate heat better? 275/30/19 or 265/65/19?

Assume same tire. Very curios to hear technical explanation. Not interesting to rehash a conversation about 18".

Thank you in advance

the variables in ambient driving conditions and driving style are going to make the small differences in those two sized negligible.
in a lab controlled test, i would theorize the taller tire would dissipate heat better.
tire carcass size is directly related to its thermal properties.

here is an experiment for you- slap your oem brakes back on with proper race pads, borrow some 18's and a 275/35/18 tire of your choice and smash your previous personal best. (sorry, had to go there.)

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

the variables in ambient driving conditions and driving style are going to make the small differences in those two sized negligible.
in a lab controlled test, i would theorize the taller tire would dissipate heat better.
tire carcass size is directly related to its thermal properties.

here is an experiment for you- slap your oem brakes back on with proper race pads, borrow some 18's and a 275/35/18 tire of your choice and smash your previous personal best. (sorry, had to go there.)

Aren't you saying at the same response that 275 and 265 the size is negligible then saying that I should go from 265/35 to 275/35 and the size will make a difference?

Sorry, had to go there :-)

I talked to Hoosier technical support, unless I can get ip front 295, there is no point worrying about 265 or 275. Unless I am racing and coming first is the goal. I am not racing.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by rhyary

Aren't you saying at the same response that 275 and 265 the size is negligible then saying that I should go from 265/35 to 275/35 and the size will make a difference?

Sorry, had to go there :-)

yes because the tire carcass is larger and it is easier to manage tire pressure [temperature] since there is more air in the tire. this gives you a larger window or "sweet spot" for pressure management.

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

yes because the tire carcass is larger and it is easier to manage tire pressure [temperature] since there is more air in the tire. this gives you a larger window or "sweet spot" for pressure management.

Let see what I can do on 265/35/19 MPSCup2 this Thursday.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by Ximian

It was my plan to use the "M button" on the steering wheel and have it configured only to switch EDC between comfort and full stiff.

Normally, I leave it full stiff but BIR turn 1 is a bumpy >100 MPH banked corner so I'd like some extra stability if I can get it for free. I haven't been able to try it but next trip is first week in July if it doesn't get cancelled.

If you have any way to capture telemetry, it should be interesting to see how the car behaves differently and how you as a driver handle it, e.g. difference in lateral Gs, steering corrections, turn-in point, etc.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by rhyary

Let see what I can do on 265/35/19 MPSCup2 this Thursday.

are you using nitrogen or an air drier for these thinner profile tires? should help manage pressure.

[Shmelgy]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

Not sure. It's one of those parts on realoem where the weight is listed as a couple thousand pounds. lol

I can weigh my front lexan windows along with all the stock ones, but my lexan rear windows are all installed. So no weight for those, sorry guys

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by Shmelgy

I can weigh my front lexan windows along with all the stock ones, but my lexan rear windows are all installed. So no weight for those, sorry guys

i sent the company i posted a message, but are you able to roll them down like oem? what brand did you get?

[Shmelgy]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

i sent the company i posted a message, but are you able to roll them down like oem? what brand did you get?

Nope, they're the ones that came with the Geoff Steel Carbon doors.

I have no idea who makes the other ones, but I'll pull them off one day soon to re-paint the borders black. I'll weigh them when that day comes and post it here

[rhyary]

Tire pressure note.
I talked to a Hoosier tech, while I did not call about tire pressure, he took the conversation to PSI direction.

He was adamant about keeping the tire pressure hot on 38-40psi. He sounded frustrated that there is this notion on the Internet that lower tire pressure yield more traction.

Like anything in this sport, There is no "in general" so specifically, for the E92 M3 (heavy front) the recommendation is to not run below 38 hot. I think this apply to other tires as well.

As some may recognize my style, I don't take recommendations and run with it. I try things.

So to corroborate the Hoosier tech (Jeff) I tried hot (hand-held infrared), coming off the track, any where from 34-40 and indeed observed not faster time using lower tire pressure.

I understand that by the time I get to the paddock, jump out if my car and take temp, the tires have cooled off somewhat. I take temp as quickly as I can, but it is not like having sensors on board.

Still I did not see a faster lap time going from 38 hot to 34 hot.

[turbo_joe]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

turbo_joe we have very very similar cars. lol

Mine isn't shiny

[dparm]

I was quoted a total of $1200 by a local shop to do stud replacement on all four corners of my Corvette. Looks to be about 6.5 hours of labor @ $130/hr, plus $250 for the MSI studs. It sounds like the rear is a bit more involved.

Not thrilled about this but it's a shop with a stellar reputation for track prep, especially on Corvettes.

[Kelse92]

Originally Posted by dparm

I was quoted a total of $1200 by a local shop to do stud replacement on all four corners of my Corvette. Looks to be about 6.5 hours of labor @ $130/hr, plus $250 for the MSI studs. It sounds like the rear is a bit more involved.

Not thrilled about this but it's a shop with a stellar reputation for track prep, especially on Corvettes.

Uh, whatttt??? Please get another quote. There's no way that's 6.5 hours of shop labor. I'm sure the rear is more difficult, but really??

[ThunderMoose]

Originally Posted by dparm

I was quoted a total of $1200 by a local shop to do stud replacement on all four corners of my Corvette. Looks to be about 6.5 hours of labor @ $130/hr, plus $250 for the MSI studs. It sounds like the rear is a bit more involved.

Not thrilled about this but it's a shop with a stellar reputation for track prep, especially on Corvettes.

Are these threaded or pressed in studs?

[dparm]

Originally Posted by ThunderMoose

Are these threaded or pressed in studs?

Press-in.

[ThunderMoose]

Originally Posted by dparm

Press-in.

I assume then that they have to remove hubs to press in. I can see that taking several hours. On E46M3, front hubs are super simple but rear hubs require disconnecting axle shafts. Real PITA.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by ThunderMoose

I assume then that they have to remove hubs to press in. I can see that taking several hours. On E46M3, front hubs are super simple but rear hubs require disconnecting axle shafts. Real PITA.

Correct, the hubs have to come out and the rear is of course more involved. Based on the 6.5 hour quote, I would assume it's 1 hour for each front corner, and 2 hours for each rear corner.