DIY: S65 M3 Rod Bearing

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by Scharbag

I wonder why your pan gasket had goo on it. Had it been off before? If so, why?

Cheers,

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

Did your gasket come off the pan and block clean and leave nothing behind? I remember scraping with a razor blade and running/wiping with brake clean and a rag. The gasket is metal/rubber and I assumed the rubber and compressed and stuck.

I don't know guys, if it was removed before. I only own the car for one year, and the history of maintenance of this car is unknown after 40,000 km. Before that, it was always at the dealer shop.

No, the gasket didn't come off clean. The first picture of the sump I posted today was right after removing the gasket. That thing that appears to be some chemical rubber was left in the sump mating surface. The block surface didn't have that, it was clean.

Do the sump bolts need blue loctite or something?

[Scharbag]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

I don't know guys, if it was removed before. I only own the car for one year, and the history of maintenance of this car is unknown after 40,000 km. Before that, it was always at the dealer shop.

No, the gasket didn't come off clean. The first picture of the sump I posted today was right after removing the gasket. That thing that appears to be some chemical rubber was left in the sump mating surface. The block surface didn't have that, it was clean.

It must have been off for some reason then. Pretty typical for people to put silicone/RTV where it is not needed.

One tip when you put the gasket on to keep it from moving is to use a little bit of superglue on the gasket tabs that do not form a sealing surface. I circled the areas on your photo. Just use a dab to hold it in place when you are positioning the pan.

Happy wrenching!

[jvictormp]

Thanks! It's already there. I'm torquing bolts now. I used the suggestion of the DYI, two zip ties in opposite sides holding the gasket. Worked good.

If the engine was opened before, it makes me think that this could be the second set of 088/089 bearings this car runs, hence the "not catastrophic" condition of them. Just a thought, who knows.

[jvictormp]

I'm stucked at steering rack. Doesn't go in, no way!

Can I put some oil in it, to make it more slidy?

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

I'm stucked at steering rack. Doesn't go in, no way!

Can I put some oil in it, to make it more slidy?

Sure. It always ends up going in

[jvictormp]

Damn it, man!! I'm furious with this steering spindle!

F***, I had to raise and lower the subframe many times, and that shit wouldn't go in!

Had to do two things, one is the oil. Another is: put the bolt and tight it up. Then extract it again, only then the spindle went in.

I think that it became too much opened during the removal, that wouldn't fit the mating geometry of the steering rack axle.

Much much time lost here, and now my wife will make me sleep in the couch. S***

So, more beers and let's finish all the job tonight.

[SYT_Shadow]

You're almost done now

Do not forget to put oil into the engine!!

[jvictormp]

Well, raising the subframe for the 1000th time, "screwed" up a screw. A big screw.

I'll have to replace both.

Will continue the work only by monday.

[Scharbag]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

Well, raising the subframe for the 1000th time, "screwed" up a screw. A big screw.

I'll have to replace both.

Will continue the work only by monday.

Just throw a thread chaser in that.

[jvictormp]

One question.
Should I torque the engine mount with the subframe lowered? If so, when I raise the subframe, won't the load on the engine mount be increased, and that would change the torque setting?
But if not, there is no way to fit the torque wrench there inside with the subframe raised.

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by Scharbag

Just throw a thread chaser in that.

Good point. Will do it by Monday. This weekend I'm forbidden to go to the garage.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

One question.
Should I torque the engine mount with the subframe lowered? If so, when I raise the subframe, won't the load on the engine mount be increased, and that would change the torque setting?
But if not, there is no way to fit the torque wrench there inside with the subframe raised.

The top engine mount bolt i always just tighten 'good and tight'. No space for a torque wrench there

[Bubbles]

Midway through the bearing swap. Everything was going according to plan, then the last freaking bolt for the oil pickup bracket wouldn’t budge.

Then this happened.

Used some duct tape to finally get the bolt out extra careful no metal shavings were left behind.

Huge relief but this will delay my rebuild a few days as I wait for 4 new bolts.

Anyone know why I have different lengths? Maybe a superseded part?

According to ETK, the part number is 07129905692.

The offending bolt.

[pbonsalb]

I have a vague recollection that those bolts had blue loctite on them. If so that would make them harder to break free and increase the possibility of stripping if you were not careful to keep your socket square and fully seated. Also with torx beware some sizes are pretty close and people often use the wrong, looser one and that results in damage or stripping. This is true of both male and female torx. I have done it and learned my lesson.

Lengths vary. Ideally you would remember which lengths went where. Or can tell by looking. If not maybe SYT’s DIY has that detail or he can tell you since he has done the job about 10 times.

[SYT_Shadow]

Damn. First time I've seen that, although as pbonsalb says, they have blue loctite on them from the factory

The slightly longer ones go through two? layers of metal before getting threaded into the block

[shootnjunky]

getting ready to do this myself. really glad there is a tutorial thanks SYT_Shadow

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

I have a vague recollection that those bolts had blue loctite on them. If so that would make them harder to break free and increase the possibility of stripping if you were not careful to keep your socket square and fully seated. Also with torx beware some sizes are pretty close and people often use the wrong, looser one and that results in damage or stripping. This is true of both male and female torx. I have done it and learned my lesson.

Lengths vary. Ideally you would remember which lengths went where. Or can tell by looking. If not maybe SYT’s DIY has that detail or he can tell you since he has done the job about 10 times.

$hit happens, although it looked like the offending bolt had extra loctite on all threads, not like the micro encapsulated thread loctite on 4-5 threads. I spent about 30 mins trying to get the bolt off before stripping it. I stopped a few times when the torque required exceeded what I remembered for the other bolts.

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

Damn. First time I've seen that, although as pbonsalb says, they have blue loctite on them from the factory

The slightly longer ones go through two? layers of metal before getting threaded into the block

The longer bolts are the rear bolts (closest to the bell housing). I’ll take a picture but I think all the bolt holes were level.


ecstuning picture and link to the bolt I purchased. The thread count matches.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/07129905692/

[jvictormp]

Oh, I put blue loctite through all the threads. Made a "straight path" on the thread surface, and put it into the engine. Do I have a problem?

[Scharbag]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

Oh, I put blue loctite through all the threads. Made a "straight path" on the thread surface, and put it into the engine. Do I have a problem?

No, blue locktite is fine and I did the same.

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by Bubbles

$hit happens, although it looked like the offending bolt had extra loctite on all threads, not like the micro encapsulated thread loctite on 4-5 threads. I spent about 30 mins trying to get the bolt off before stripping it. I stopped a few times when the torque required exceeded what I remembered for the other bolts.



The longer bolts are the rear bolts (closest to the bell housing). I’ll take a picture but I think all the bolt holes were level.


ecstuning picture and link to the bolt I purchased. The thread count matches.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/07129905692/

That's curious. My four bolts had the same lenght. What's the Model Year?

[pbonsalb]

My recollection is that my 08 had 2 long and 2 short bolts for the rear pickup bracket.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

My recollection is that my 08 had 2 long and 2 short bolts for the rear pickup bracket.

As far as I can remember all the cars I've done have 2 long and 2 short. However, it's clear the short size would also fit on all the positions. Maybe the long one does as well.