Track forum general chit chat.

[kyoo]

Originally Posted by CarPoor

The Mu is a bit higher than Endless and half the price FWIW.

it's $45 for 500ml, srf sells 1L/ea, so it's a bit more I believe

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by OG Shark

Cue the pitchforks and torches...

Did you ever happen to get a sound clip of that fancy engine of yours?

oh yes. PM

[CarPoor]

Originally Posted by kyoo

it's $45 for 500ml, srf sells 1L/ea, so it's a bit more I believe

You’re right. I guess around 70-80% of Endless or SRF depending on the deal at the time.

[dparm]

BTW, to anyone going to MSR Cresson this weekend, Scott Adams will be available on Sunday for coaching!

[M eyedoc]

Originally Posted by dparm

Anyone here have experience with Carbotech? Thoughts on the 12/10, specifically initial bite and modulation?

I have been using Carbotech for a couple of years. Overall very happy. Absolutely great modulation. Brakes are no longer an on-off switch. Still have plenty of bite and zero fade. They are also very rotor friendly. I switched from PFC 08 because I was tired of replacing rotors. They don't seem to last as long, but I would highly recommend them if you are looking for better modulation.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by dparm

BTW, to anyone going to MSR Cresson this weekend, Scott Adams will be available on Sunday for coaching!

Bumping this since I think he's still looking for a Sunday student.

Also, obligatory brake porn.

[Ximian]

Rockauto has a good discount on the stock air filter (MAHLE/CLEVITE LX1590). I got the last few delivered and they were made in 2012/2013. It's not like they expire.

[rhyary]

So I experimented with setting the rear Hotchkis swaybar on the third and stiffer setting. While I did respectable 1:36.9 the car was tail happy and I was not comfortable pushing it like I usually do. Then I heard "boom".
Could no see anything but the car was moving around on the brakes more than usual.

I got home and took the wheels off.

Yap, rear sway bar broke.

I do have the MSR links, and there was a discussion on those awhile back. something about how they hold the swaybar.

So what to do?
Another Hotchkis and keep it on middle or soft position?

I am thinking I am done with the adjustable and looking into H&R Front & Rear Sway Bar Kit .

[roastbeef]

Are you sure you're not preloading it?

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

Are you sure you're not preloading it?

yes

[Richbot]

Preload doesn’t really break sway bars, but bind can. If it was also very tailhappy before it broke, that suggests it was binding up. Putting a bar on full stiff should put *less* twist in the bar as you have made the lever arm acting on the bar shorter, so it bends less for the same amount of force. So you probably bound it up when you made the bar adjustment. Easy to do on a multi link car. Hard to tell for sure it’s moving free through the whole travel when it’s sitting still.

I wouldn’t bother with another aftermarket bar after having a failure. Put a stock bar back in and run it.

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by Richbot

Preload doesn’t really break sway bars, but bind can. If it was also very tailhappy before it broke, that suggests it was binding up. Putting a bar on full stiff should put *less* twist in the bar as you have made the lever arm acting on the bar shorter, so it bends less for the same amount of force. So you probably bound it up when you made the bar adjustment. Easy to do on a multi link car. Hard to tell for sure it’s moving free through the whole travel when it’s sitting still.

I wouldn’t bother with another aftermarket bar after having a failure. Put a stock bar back in and run it.

looking into the H&R non-adjustable kit
I assumed the front and rear stiffness are thought out by H&R
I am on 750 front and 900 rear springs. So still want stiffer bars to match

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by Richbot

Preload doesn’t really break sway bars, but bind can. If it was also very tailhappy before it broke, that suggests it was binding up. Putting a bar on full stiff should put *less* twist in the bar as you have made the lever arm acting on the bar shorter, so it bends less for the same amount of force. So you probably bound it up when you made the bar adjustment. Easy to do on a multi link car. Hard to tell for sure it’s moving free through the whole travel when it’s sitting still.

I wouldn’t bother with another aftermarket bar after having a failure. Put a stock bar back in and run it.

What's the difference between binding and preload?

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

What's the difference between binding and preload?

My Interpretation

Preload is when at rest (both wheels on even ground) there is no tension on the swaybar.

Binding is when the link push on the swaybar end and it can't go up for whatever reason, so it breaks.

[Richbot]

Yep

[roastbeef]

Interesting. I always thought that they were pretty much the same, but preload was intentional.

[roastbeef]

has anyone weight their full bodied m3 on an open aluminum trailer? mrs beef is looking at cars and i'm thinking we might be able to get some suv that we could tow the m3 with. problem is, there are tons of mid size suv's that tow around 5-6,000 lbs. cayennes can do 7,200.
i know the more the better, but what's the minimum?

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

has anyone weight their full bodied m3 on an open aluminum trailer? mrs beef is looking at cars and i'm thinking we might be able to get some suv that we could tow the m3 with. problem is, there are tons of mid size suv's that tow around 5-6,000 lbs. cayennes can do 7,200.
i know the more the better, but what's the minimum?

Going through a similar thing. Planning our next car so I can use my wife’s XC90 to tow the M3 to out of state tracks.

Still trying to figure out GCWRs, tongue weights, and external brake controllers. Going by the suggestions online, you should have an F350 to tow a car trailer even though there are plenty of X5s doing it.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by Ximian

Going through a similar thing. Planning our next car so I can use my wife’s XC90 to tow the M3 to out of state tracks.

Still trying to figure out GCWRs, tongue weights, and external brake controllers. Going by the suggestions online, you should have an F350 to tow a car trailer even though there are plenty of X5s doing it.

towing capacity on those appears to be 5k... might be a little slim.

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

towing capacity on those appears to be 5k... might be a little slim.

I don't recall why it's 5k but in the EU it's 6k with all the same OEM parts. The aftermarket hitches seem to be more capable while retaining most of the rear crash protection structures.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by Ximian

I don't recall why it's 5k but in the EU it's 6k with all the same OEM parts. The aftermarket hitches seem to be more capable while retaining most of the rear crash protection structures.

EU can sometimes be in Kilos.

[Grillpt]

U want to have a good margin between towing capacity and the weight you're pulling. Figure u have a bunch of extra weight besides the car too (tools/fuel/wheels &tires). IMO 5-6k is not enough IMO. U also need to take wheelbase into consideration, the longer the better.

I have a GC EcoDiesel, it's rated at 7200. I believe the Hemi v8 is the same. If that helps.