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06-11-2019, 03:29 PM | #45 | |
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That is truly terrible. How hard would it have been to rotate the engine by hand with a tang installed backwards? Yikes. Thanks for sharing.
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06-11-2019, 09:48 PM | #46 | |
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The point being that tuners should stick to tuning, and let engine builders stick to building engines. This video is a prime example to demonstrate those points. |
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06-12-2019, 07:28 AM | #47 | |
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06-12-2019, 11:17 AM | #48 |
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08-22-2019, 04:07 PM | #49 | |
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08-22-2019, 06:25 PM | #50 |
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Honestly the part about dropping the subframe entirely isn't needed. I paid my mech to do the job while I helped and there was plenty of room between the subframe and rod caps to service the bearings. I didn't feel like we were cutting corners at all. To each their own.
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08-22-2019, 08:15 PM | #51 | |
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08-22-2019, 09:42 PM | #52 | |
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Cheers,
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08-23-2019, 11:50 AM | #53 | |
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That's great. I didn't know whether this job could be done on jack stands or no as far as working space is concerned, but one of the reasons i'd want to do it myself is so I can clean and tidy up while i'm under the car.... no rush, take my time, and acquire new tools in the process that I can use later for other projects. I just need to figure out a way to have it as high up and SAFELY as possible. I'm thinking that in addition to jackstands, build some strong wooden boxes to put under the siderails as a safety catch-all. GM |
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08-23-2019, 11:55 AM | #54 |
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Plenty have confirmed that you can do the job without, but not removing the subframe is cutting corners. Period. You simply can't employ the same degree of cleanliness and attention to detail with it dangling. Mistakes can be made more easily (as evidenced in my last post).
We also power wash the subframe and suspension assembly during the service. Having everything clean adds to the quality of the job. But, fewer and fewer people care about quality these days as the value and ownership demographic of these cars fall. |
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08-23-2019, 12:10 PM | #55 | |
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GM |
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08-23-2019, 04:22 PM | #56 | |
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One you drop the subframe and oil pan, you will be surprised how high up you have to reach to get to the rods. Take your time, do not drop the bearing caps (or even set them on concrete). I had a plastic floor in my garage. I also used a piece of old carpet so that if I dropped anything, it would not hit anything hard nor would it bounce away. Buy yourself a good digital torque wrench. Follow all the instructions to the letter. Be very clean. I used Redline assembly lube but some use oil - whatever you do, use lube!! Once it is buttoned up, you should not be able to see the parting line easily AND the rod should have easy side play - this will prove you did not squish an alignment tang (some have...). Once you button it up, clench your butt-cheeks and press the big button. SYTShadow has a totally awesome DIY that is super helpful. Deansbimmer can comment further on the easiest way to drop the subframe but IIRC just drop the 6 strut tower nuts and undo the power steering lines. Roll the bitch out of the way and you will not even need an allignemnt. I did mine the harder way by removing the lower control arms and tie-rods. I needed an alignment but it really did not take that long. Oh - secure your steering wheel!!! Bungie that pig to the seat rails cause it spins REALLY easily without a rack on the other end!! It is a pretty fun job as BMW actually put things in easy to access locations. Also, IIRC, 3/8" box end wrench fits better than a 10mm on the 2 transmission bolts that are a bitch to get at with a socket. And a tip my buddy taught me for the oil pan gasket was to line up the gasket and super-glue the outer tabs (flat wing looking things on the skinny end that really do nothing) to the pan lightly so that it stays in place. Saved some swearing I am sure cause you are lying on your back, holding a large oil pan with 1 hand and trying to get a bolt in with the other... And make sure you have that long Torx bit. You will need it! Enough babbling, enjoy the job. Cheers,
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08-23-2019, 05:07 PM | #57 | |
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I understand this method requires me to unbolt the hoses to the rack. I noticed that RealOEM shows two different washers that sandwich the banjo bolts. They list the part number for one set of washers, but they don’t list the part number for Item 11. Here’s the link to the schematic for reference: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=32_1738 Does anyone have the part number for these washers, or are people just reusing the old washers? Any input would be greatly appreciated Thanks. |
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08-23-2019, 05:15 PM | #58 | |
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As far as camber goes, I think the strut tower self centers. I could be wrong though. Camber on the E92 is adjusted with via the control arms (unless you have camber plates). Cheers,
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08-24-2019, 09:15 AM | #60 |
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Correct. The e92 towers are pinned. Not adjustable unless someone has removed the locator dowels to attempt to get another degree, or has aftermarket plates.
Since the subframe is also centered on dowels, there is nothing that would cause a change in alignment by removing the subframe as long as the arms are not disturbed. We have confirmed this on several occasions on the alignment rack after RB service. |
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08-24-2019, 10:46 AM | #61 | |
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I am an adult in real life but couldn't help myself. 100% agree. You just need to remove 4 more bolts which are easy to remove. If there was a way to not disconnect the steering shaft...100% all for it. The first problem with this motor is the PO following BMW maintenance standards. BMW Maintenance Standards...well...FOCKING SUCK! 2 years/15k miles? Of course these motors are having issues. I am a fan of sticking to OEM in this case until more data comes out but you can't attribute 1 failure on the internet to the BE bearings being total shiet. One theory I have is subsequent bearing changes require shorter preventive maintenance intervals. I would bet that a BMW factory worker who puts thousands of these motors together will do a better and more precise job than anyone here. That doesn't account for wear and whatever other variables exist...torque wrench calibrations? Never 100% spot on. Again, my opinion...I think your first bearing change should be between 50k to 80k miles. The second one should be done a little sooner.
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08-24-2019, 01:08 PM | #62 | ||
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I do know some guys who are supercharged and did bearings at 50-70 and then 120k. First set was without supercharger. |
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08-24-2019, 04:45 PM | #63 | |
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08-24-2019, 05:31 PM | #64 | ||
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Also, given the OE bearings coming out of these engines, why would you think putting in new OE bearings would be the best choice? Finally, what data do you have to support the claim that BMW factory does a better job of installing bearings than anyone else? Bearings are not that hard to install properly. Torque wrenches can be calibrated. And we certainly do not see an epidemic of people having failed engines after changing their bearings due to imperfect installations. Without data, you are just promoting FUD. P.s. HYDRODYNAMIC BEARINGS ARE NOT A WEAR ITEM!!!
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08-24-2019, 09:15 PM | #65 | |
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I am just a DIYer, but I don’t think this job is rocket science. It just requires care, patience, and attention to detail. What is the pro going to do differently than me? I would determine the 2nd change based on the wear I see on the original set. Yes, I understand the theory is that using added clearance bearings should eliminate wear, but the long term testing is not yet there to fully support the theory. Once we have seen a dozen sets of extra clearance bearings come out after 50k miles with no wear, I will accept it. Until then, I’d say do them again and maybe you will be able to extend the interval or even do away with a 3rd change if you find no wear on the 2nd change. I am at 40k on my 2nd set (wpc treated late oem with stock bolts changed in 2014) and my originals at 60k showed wear but were not as bad as some so I would feel comfortable leaving the replacements in for 60k. |
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08-25-2019, 08:04 AM | #66 | ||
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I might have went the BE route but they're always sold out too. I went OEM WPC. First swap was 53k. I plan to swap them at 80k-85k out of curiosity.
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