DCT experts PLEASE CHIME IN

[xnfsx]

Just got back from the dealer today and they were nice enough to run a full diagnostic.

- The did not find a leak at all around the DCT
- They topped the fluid
- They pulled transmission data and sent it to BMW. BMW asked for transmission fluid picture to make sure it's not burnt

The car has 15,650 miles, 2011 e90 m3

Mods:
- GTS tune (Alpine)
- Motor tune (Alpine) with latest DME 240E software

I've been experiencing a violent shake, buck, back and forth and eventually a stall when I try to shift from P to first on D or R.

Seemed like the following codes were resolved after changing my battery:
- 279D
- 2B13
- 5A44

Second time it happened I got these codes:
- 5A53
- A7C9

Dealer will be sending me codes they pulled but one of them they mentioned was transmission overheating phase red which is 5A53.

Does anyone on the forum have any insights as to what is going on with my transmission? I barely drive the car...

[xnfsx]

Dealer just called and told me to replace the whole transmission

[For3]

Sorry to hear that. I've been reading your various posts throughout the summer. Can't believe a unit with such few miles is having issues. Did you ever reflash to the stock tune?

If a new transmission is really required, I'd reach out to deansbimmer whose shop is called Mporium. I've read on heear he can source used DCTs which would be much cheaper than a new unit from a dealer. However, given he is in Texas that might not be helpful for you. You might check some of the NY area shops like AutoCouture.

Best of luck.

[xnfsx]

Matt from ACM told me to remove the GTS tune and see if the issues persist.

Anyone need a Slonik oil pan? -_-

[///Mobbin]

Originally Posted by For3

Sorry to hear that. I've been reading your various posts throughout the summer. Can't believe a unit with such few miles is having issues. Did you ever reflash to the stock tune?

If a new transmission is really required, I'd reach out to deansbimmer whose shop is called Mporium. I've read on heear he can source used DCTs which would be much cheaper than a new unit from a dealer. However, given he is in Texas that might not be helpful for you. You might check some of the NY area shops like AutoCouture.

Best of luck.

Sorry to hear this as well and +1 for checking in with deansbimmer if you are on the hook for this repair. If you can grab a pre-owned transmission from a trusted source it will likely be much much cheaper than new.

[Helmsman]

A new box is VERY expensive. The M-DCT has proven to be very reliable so with 15k miles on it, I'd definitely dig a bit further before replacement.

[dparm]

I would get a second opinion from an indie shop with experience on this car/transmission.

[msan]

Originally Posted by xnfsx

Matt from ACM told me to remove the GTS tune and see if the issues persist.

Anyone need a Slonik oil pan? -_-

Curious. Is the slonik pan installed on your car? Or you offering new in box?

[wfdeacon88]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

A new box is VERY expensive. The M-DCT has proven to be very reliable so with 15k miles on it, I'd definitely dig a bit further before replacement.

Outside of a new lower pan, fluids, and filter, mine is going strong at 110K. this is very bizarre to see such a low mileage failure. sorry OP, I feel for you.

[xnfsx]

Originally Posted by wfdeacon88

Outside of a new lower pan, fluids, and filter, mine is going strong at 110K. this is very bizarre to see such a low mileage failure. sorry OP, I feel for you.

Should I reset adaptations? Do I even need to after a GTS tune? I havent heard anyone else doing so after their install.

Regarding the Slon pan, it's in a box new. I'm debating whether or not to install it as I did have a leak years ago but Rallye confirmed there isnt a leak.

Alex is removing the GTS tune tomorrow, and Matt from ACM advised me to drive it around and see how it is. If it doesnt happen, then the GTS tune is the culprit.

[wfdeacon88]

Originally Posted by xnfsx

Should I reset adaptations? Do I even need to after a GTS tune? I havent heard anyone else doing so after their install.

Regarding the Slon pan, it's in a box new. I'm debating whether or not to install it as I did have a leak years ago but Rallye confirmed there isnt a leak.

Alex is removing the GTS tune tomorrow, and Matt from ACM advised me to drive it around and see how it is. If it doesnt happen, then the GTS tune is the culprit.

When mine was low on fluid (which you don't have apparently) and a little glitchy, they reset adaptations and topped it off... They told me some fault codes were tripping and there was a chance I had internal issues, but to drive it some more before doing anything drastic. I topped off fluids again a few months later, but finally did a full lower pan, filter, etc purchased from ECS about 2 months ago, and it's been flawless since. Still waiting to see if the slow leak has stopped, or if it's the side pan, but thus far mine is better after that procedure plus the service. I never had the big issues you noted, so take it with a grain of salt.

[xnfsx]

Originally Posted by wfdeacon88

When mine was low on fluid (which you don't have apparently) and a little glitchy, they reset adaptations and topped it off... They told me some fault codes were tripping and there was a chance I had internal issues, but to drive it some more before doing anything drastic. I topped off fluids again a few months later, but finally did a full lower pan, filter, etc purchased from ECS about 2 months ago, and it's been flawless since. Still waiting to see if the slow leak has stopped, or if it's the side pan, but thus far mine is better after that procedure plus the service. I never had the big issues you noted, so take it with a grain of salt.

Appreciate your experience. Did you or do you have a GTS tune?

[rcracin]

When I went to change my lower pan, I saw that the plastic oil pickup was broken. How that happened, I have no idea. Replaced with oem parts and all has been fine for 2+ years.

[xnfsx]

Whats the oil pick up? Are you referring to the oil pan?

[xnfsx]

Alex just removed the tune.

Fingers crossed....

I also got this from the dealer.

Looks like overheating code is gone but 279D I thought I fixed with the new battery. What is A7C9 - google says it's high beam temperature?

[rcracin]

Originally Posted by xnfsx

Whats the oil pick up? Are you referring to the oil pan?

Oil pickup inside the transmission. It picks up the oil from the pan.

[xnfsx]

Originally Posted by rcracin

Oil pickup inside the transmission. It picks up the oil from the pan.

maybe I should do a complete flush. you would only find out by opening the bottom oil pan :/

[Route 16]

Originally Posted by wfdeacon88

When mine was low on fluid (which you don't have apparently) and a little glitchy, they reset adaptations and topped it off... They told me some fault codes were tripping and there was a chance I had internal issues, but to drive it some more before doing anything drastic. I topped off fluids again a few months later, but finally did a full lower pan, filter, etc purchased from ECS about 2 months ago, and it's been flawless since. Still waiting to see if the slow leak has stopped, or if it's the side pan, but thus far mine is better after that procedure plus the service. I never had the big issues you noted, so take it with a grain of salt.

It feels like you guys are driving my car. Anyways, 2010 M3 52k, changed DCT gasket, sump filter, gave shop 5L of oil, not sure how much was totally drained...I assume was not topped off. Going back home in D straight away no problem...reversing to my garage on a daily basis, I knew something felt and reacted off. Kind of a small jerk or clunk (not my driveshaft). At this point I assumed not enough DCT fluid. Goes on for about 3k miles more going in D, no problems at all...until moving to below message....

Originally Posted by xnfsx

Alex just removed the tune.

Fingers crossed....

I also got this from the dealer.

Looks like overheating code is gone but 279D I thought I fixed with the new battery. What is A7C9 - google says it's high beam temperature?

I have Alpine's GTS DCT transmission flash installed, before and after my DCT fluid job. Before DCT job, it worked FLAWLESSLY, no hiccups at all in D or R. Also keep in mind...I have had 279D for 8k miles before DCT job (I thought it was the battery as well, changed it out at 44k, registered, code came back shortly after). Recently changed the alternator, no more code, car isn't being drained volts, I assume now the voltage regulator may be the culprit, you can still use the alternator...maybe, anyways.

279D plus DCT in reverse hiccup after DCT job, about 1k miles later I get a transmission warning symbol and gears are skipping 2, 4, 6. Happened three separate times going slow over a speed bump before the car is warmed up, BOOM. Going up a hill fast, making a left to a bit steeper hill fast, BOOM. Going over a speed bump at 5-10 mph, BOOM. Leading me to believe, DCT fluid is lacking. Had a shop look for transmission codes, 2 were found, nothing indicating overheat, the 1 seemed like an electrical issue, transmission was not receiving a signal to ECU/DME that's why it skipped gears (safety mode to prevent transmission damage). Every time it happened though, turn off, turn on the ignition, car drove like it was normal, no warning symbols.

I think OP your issue is the alternator/voltage regulator. I've always had issue with this car because of what I thought was the battery. Now may have been the alternator/voltage regulator this whole time. My story telling sucks.

[xnfsx]

Originally Posted by Route 16

It feels like you guys are driving my car. Anyways, 2010 M3 52k, changed DCT gasket, sump filter, gave shop 5L of oil, not sure how much was totally drained...I assume was not topped off. Going back home in D straight away no problem...reversing to my garage on a daily basis, I knew something felt and reacted off. Kind of a small jerk or clunk (not my driveshaft). At this point I assumed not enough DCT fluid. Goes on for about 3k miles more going in D, no problems at all...until moving to below message....

I have Alpine's GTS DCT transmission flash installed, before and after my DCT fluid job. Before DCT job, it worked FLAWLESSLY, no hiccups at all in D or R. Also keep in mind...I have had 279D for 8k miles before DCT job (I thought it was the battery as well, changed it out at 44k, registered, code came back shortly after). Recently changed the alternator, no more code, car isn't being drained volts, I assume now the voltage regulator may be the culprit, you can still use the alternator...maybe, anyways.

279D plus DCT in reverse hiccup after DCT job, about 1k miles later I get a transmission warning symbol and gears are skipping 2, 4, 6. Happened three separate times going slow over a speed bump before the car is warmed up, BOOM. Going up a hill fast, making a left to a bit steeper hill fast, BOOM. Going over a speed bump at 5-10 mph, BOOM. Leading me to believe, DCT fluid is lacking. Had a shop look for transmission codes, 2 were found, nothing indicating overheat, the 1 seemed like an electrical issue, transmission was not receiving a signal to ECU/DME that's why it skipped gears (safety mode to prevent transmission damage). Every time it happened though, turn off, turn on the ignition, car drove like it was normal, no warning symbols.

I think OP your issue is the alternator/voltage regulator. I've always had issue with this car because of what I thought was the battery. Now may have been the alternator/voltage regulator this whole time. My story telling sucks.

what codes were you getting back then?

[wfdeacon88]

Originally Posted by xnfsx

Appreciate your experience. Did you or do you have a GTS tune?

Nope, I've never done it... mine works well so I didn't want to risk it.

[Route 16]

Originally Posted by xnfsx

what codes were you getting back then?

I didn't get a print out but one of them was CFA# I don't know what the number was and I don't remember the other code.

I had another shop read for any and all codes before registering and putting in a new alternator, there were no codes aside from 279D. And I had already driving 2k plus miles since the last transmission gear skip

[xnfsx]

Originally Posted by Route 16

I didn't get a print out but one of them was CFA# I don't know what the number was and I don't remember the other code.

I had another shop read for any and all codes before registering and putting in a new alternator, there were no codes aside from 279D. And I had already driving 2k plus miles since the last transmission gear skip

Thank you Route 16!

Will keep that in mind.


I just came back from a somewhat easy drive to see how its reacting without the GTS tune...so far so good, no codes, no increased battery discharge...I made sure I unplugged my dash cam as well when my car is parked to prevent battery draining (its hardwired into the fuse box).