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      07-04-2018, 10:20 AM   #6381
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GotV8? View Post
Finally installed my AFE Carbon Fiber intake and added a touch of M oil cap as well.
How do you like that oil cap?
I have one but haven't put it on yet
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      07-04-2018, 01:27 PM   #6382
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Originally Posted by Iyzmi View Post
New wheels went on yesterday.
Forgestars?? What wheel and tire size?? Just curious..Nice stance
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      07-04-2018, 01:28 PM   #6383
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Originally Posted by 330indy View Post
How do you like that oil cap?
I have one but haven't put it on yet
Works well, no leaks for now...time will tell. No complaints
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      07-04-2018, 03:05 PM   #6384
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EJT86 View Post
gave it a DECENT cleaning

[IMG]Untitled by EJT86, on Flickr[/IMG]
[IMG]Untitled by EJT86, on Flickr[/IMG]
[IMG]Untitled by EJT86, on Flickr[/IMG]
[IMG]Untitled by EJT86, on Flickr[/IMG]
Please tell me where to get the boot cover. (DCT shifter) and what paddles are they? Did you install them? was it hard? I am getting the alcantara wheel and was thinking on getting bigger paddles as well. Any info would be helpfull
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      07-04-2018, 04:11 PM   #6385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irokwrx View Post
Please tell me where to get the boot cover. (DCT shifter) and what paddles are they? Did you install them? was it hard? I am getting the alcantara wheel and was thinking on getting bigger paddles as well. Any info would be helpfull
The DCT boot which is complete with the handle too and Ebrake boot with handle I got from iND. the paddles I got from turner Motorsport back when they had their own parts dept. which I think is the same as the autotechnik (not sure of spelling) ones. I had the paddles from EAS but didn’t really like them after a couple months so I got these ones and they feel much better I also hated how small the stock paddles were.. Installing them is super easy I’ve swapped the wheel a bunch of times and swapped paddles a couple times it’s just unscrewing stuff and screwing it back together that’s all. There’s prob a bunch of videos on it one tip though when you get to pretty much the last part unscrewing the paddle out of the module there’s a little ball bearing in each one DO NOT LOSE THEM and be careful they will fall out if you’re not aware.
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      07-04-2018, 04:51 PM   #6386
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EJT86 View Post
The DCT boot which is complete with the handle too and Ebrake boot with handle I got from iND. the paddles I got from turner Motorsport back when they had their own parts dept. which I think is the same as the autotechnik (not sure of spelling) ones. I had the paddles from EAS but didn’t really like them after a couple months so I got these ones and they feel much better I also hated how small the stock paddles were.. Installing them is super easy I’ve swapped the wheel a bunch of times and swapped paddles a couple times it’s just unscrewing stuff and screwing it back together that’s all. There’s prob a bunch of videos on it one tip though when you get to pretty much the last part unscrewing the paddle out of the module there’s a little ball bearing in each one DO NOT LOSE THEM and be careful they will fall out if you’re not aware.
Thanks bro!
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      07-04-2018, 05:26 PM   #6387
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GotV8? View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iyzmi View Post
New wheels went on yesterday.
Forgestars?? What wheel and tire size?? Just curious..Nice stance
19x10 +20 SDC 275/30/19 PS4S
19x11 +33 SDC 305/30/19 PS4S

Stock non-ZCP suspension.
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      07-04-2018, 09:19 PM   #6388
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Got bunch of weird lights and errors on startup and boiled it down to weak battery. Mine is a 2013. Battery has never been replaced so I figure the hot weather is killing it. Decided to take it out and see if I can do a charge and battery repair to wring another 6 months to year out of it. Let's see!
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      07-04-2018, 10:59 PM   #6389
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EJT86 View Post
The DCT boot which is complete with the handle too and Ebrake boot with handle I got from iND. the paddles I got from turner Motorsport back when they had their own parts dept. which I think is the same as the autotechnik (not sure of spelling) ones. I had the paddles from EAS but didn’t really like them after a couple months so I got these ones and they feel much better I also hated how small the stock paddles were.. Installing them is super easy I’ve swapped the wheel a bunch of times and swapped paddles a couple times it’s just unscrewing stuff and screwing it back together that’s all. There’s prob a bunch of videos on it one tip though when you get to pretty much the last part unscrewing the paddle out of the module there’s a little ball bearing in each one DO NOT LOSE THEM and be careful they will fall out if you’re not aware.
Wait why do you have checkered flags on your car those door sills look awesome.
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      07-04-2018, 11:13 PM   #6390
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Wait why do you have checkered flags on your car those door sills look awesome.
They're the GTS competition door sills.
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      07-04-2018, 11:17 PM   #6391
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pasghetti View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ItsGary View Post
Wait why do you have checkered flags on your car those door sills look awesome.
They're the GTS competition door sills.
Thanks, they look pretty cool.
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      07-04-2018, 11:18 PM   #6392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kimiraikkonen View Post
Getting my RBs done today....@~118K mile

Will share details on the results and experience after.
Here's what 088/089 rod bearings look like at 118K miles. Definitely wear through the lead layer but I think expected for the mileage. Particle streak on cylinder 8 not good, however.

See below for my blackstone. Bought the car (am 2nd owner) at 82K mi. Did the first oil change and lead showed high (26ppm) and got the usual from Blackstone (did you use fuel booster, etc). Of course having bought it used, had no idea. In any event, as you can see from the Blackstone, the lead dropped down to lower levels and Copper has been relatively low all the time. The spike in nickel I saw a few oil changes ago, am wondering if this was the nickel dam on the bearings (5 mil nickel layer sandwiched between the lead and copper layer). Can anyone confirm of 088/089 have the Clevite nickel dam?
Our line of Clevite® heavy duty engine bearings includes rod, main, and cam bearings. All but our cam bearings are made with the legendary Clevite® TriMetal™ CL-112 material. Clevite® cam bearings are precision bored to eliminate the need for machining after installation. This exclusive bearing design features a steel backing for support, a cast-copper lead alloy center for strength and durability, nickel dam for chemical stability, and an electroplated white metal babbitt overlay for slipperiness, conformability and embedability. The intermediate cast-copper lead layer creates and interlocked columnar structure capable of withstanding much heavier pulsating loads than any other bearing design.
https://www.mahle-aftermarket.com/na...gine-bearings/
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Last edited by kimiraikkonen; 07-04-2018 at 11:36 PM..
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      07-04-2018, 11:21 PM   #6393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kimiraikkonen View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by kimiraikkonen View Post
Getting my RBs done today....@~118K mile

Will share details on the results and experience after.
Here's what 088/089 rod bearings look like at 118K miles. Definitely wear through the lead layer but I think expected for the mileage. Particle streak on cylinder 8 not good, however.
I'm doing mine this month too. 108k miles on a 2008 E90
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      07-05-2018, 07:57 AM   #6394
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Wait why do you have checkered flags on your car those door sills look awesome.
Also had the steering wheel trim custom painted with flags like the GTS also
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      07-05-2018, 06:08 PM   #6395
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I took my e92 on a long rally with some of my buddies who have an assortment of sports cars. We drove in the canyons of Malibu and then took Pacific Coast Highway back to the canyon that would lead us all home. There is nothing better than racing your buddies with the beach on your left side
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      07-05-2018, 06:19 PM   #6396
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Only one corner to go on the M5 shift knob retro fit! Probably took 2-3 hours start to finish.
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      07-05-2018, 06:48 PM   #6397
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delirium330 View Post
Only one corner to go on the M5 shift knob retro fit! Probably took 2-3 hours start to finish.
is it difficult? or is that because you have to wait for the adhesive to dry?
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      07-05-2018, 07:46 PM   #6398
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is it difficult? or is that because you have to wait for the adhesive to dry?
Not difficult, but requires some handyman style DIY mentality since the M5 knob has considerably more leather material (vs. M3 knob and base) to fit around the M5's bigger base. There is a video on Youtube that is easy to find, just search "e92 M3 shift knob". That DIY wasn't extremely helpful, but gives a good idea of what is involved.

The glue says to wait 2 hours to dry, but I preferred to work a section or two then let it dry and come back to it later the next day or whenever was convenient for me. I found it easier to work the tougher areas when I could remove the binder clips holding it in place and just rely on the glue to hold it.

In addition to the DIY Youtube video, I bought a 100 pack of those binder clips in various sizes on Amazon for $8, which was a requirement to do this job. Also good to have a little cup to put the glue in, then use cue tips to apply. You also need either a scalpel or Xacto knife to remove the M3 base from the M3 leather shift boot.

If you are not handy, do not attempt this job.
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      07-05-2018, 07:57 PM   #6399
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delirium330 View Post
Not difficult, but requires some handyman style DIY mentality since the M5 knob has considerably more leather material (vs. M3 knob and base) to fit around the M5's bigger base. There is a video on Youtube that is easy to find, just search "e92 M3 shift knob". That DIY wasn't extremely helpful, but gives a good idea of what is involved.

The glue says to wait 2 hours to dry, but I preferred to work a section or two then let it dry and come back to it later the next day or whenever was convenient for me. I found it easier to work the tougher areas when I could remove the binder clips holding it in place and just rely on the glue to hold it.

In addition to the DIY Youtube video, I bought a 100 pack of those binder clips in various sizes on Amazon for $8, which was a requirement to do this job. Also good to have a little cup to put the glue in, then use cue tips to apply. You also need either a scalpel or Xacto knife to remove the M3 base from the M3 leather shift boot.

If you are not handy, do not attempt this job.
thanks for the tips

i bought a ZHP shift knob
need to buy a shift boot but haven't decided on which one to get
so i'll be tackling this eventually
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      07-06-2018, 06:58 AM   #6400
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Placed an order with EAS for some KW Clubsports, now the waiting game begins
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      07-06-2018, 07:46 PM   #6401
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Two Updates...one good, one bad!

Crossed the 6 fig mark driving between Vegas and Cali today.

Also lost my roundel on the highway which melted right off in 115 F the insane heat wave...
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      07-06-2018, 08:08 PM   #6402
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SDPLV View Post
Crossed the 6 fig mark driving between Vegas and Cali today.

Also lost my roundel on the highway which melted right off in 115 F the insane heat wave...
Holy damn! I was in Vegas two weeks ago and I don’t miss that heat at all.
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