Fuel Sender Replacement

[douglee25]

2008 E90 M3 - fuel sender on driver's side must be cracked. Smelled fuel and traced it to a small puddle on top of the fuel sender.

Ordered the replacement and will be ready to install shortly.

Question - Do you recommend also replacing the lines that come with the new sender, or just disconnecting the lines and reusing the existing ones?

Using the new lines would require removing the fuel pump on the passenger side, attaching a fish line, pulling the lines out on the driver's side, and installing in the reverse.

Thoughts?

Thanks.

Doug

[ciges]

Just replaced my sender unit,it had crack on top and fuel smell .New sender comes with transfer lines to fuel pump,it is almost impossible to pull sender out without disconnecting transfer lines from fuel pump . I removed fuel pump first,disconnected transfer lines,tied rope to lines and than removed sender and pulled out lines and rope.Than I tied rope to new sender lines and pulled lines thru gas tank and connected to fuel pump and reinstalled.Make sure that gas tank is almost empty and you will need tool to remove fuel pump/sender ring,some people use hammer and brass punch.

[douglee25]

Originally Posted by ciges

Just replaced my sender unit,it had crack on top and fuel smell .New sender comes with transfer lines to fuel pump,it is almost impossible to pull sender out without disconnecting transfer lines from fuel pump . I removed fuel pump first,disconnected transfer lines,tied rope to lines and than removed sender and pulled out lines and rope.Than I tied rope to new sender lines and pulled lines thru gas tank and connected to fuel pump and reinstalled.Make sure that gas tank is almost empty and you will need tool to remove fuel pump/sender ring,some people use hammer and brass punch.

Gotcha. Thanks for the tip. I was under the impression the lines were long enough to pull the sender up and disconnect without removing from the fuel pump side. Always something!

[ciges]

Also be careful when disconnecting fuel line on top of sender,it is pressurized and fuel will spray all over you and interior of the car(ask me how I know).You need to release fuel pressure with special tool from fuel rail ,or disconnect fuel pump electrical connector and run engine till it runs out of fuel and stalls(it will throw check engine light and warnings on dash,but it will clear as soon as you plug in connector back when job is done).Fuel pump removal link with pics:https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tec...eplacement.htm

[douglee25]

Thanks for the tip. I'll get to this later this week hopefully. Keep you posted.

[deansbimmer]

There's no schrader on the M3 fuel rails to release pressure. The M3 system is much different than a regular 3-series.

No need to overcomplicate it. If you feel you must release the pressure then you can hold a towel over the fitting in the engine bay which is much easier to disconnect. About 1oz of fuel will be expelled and then you can go back to the tank well and remove the parts.

You need to remove the pump side (passenger side) to release the transfer hoses before you can remove the sender side (driver side) The whole process is easy. Should take less than 1 hour taking your time. Suggest you go with VDO or OEM parts, aftermarket parts from Oreilley, Advance, Pep-Boys etc don't have the same original fit or quality.

[douglee25]

Originally Posted by deansbimmer

There's no schrader on the M3 fuel rails to release pressure. The M3 system is much different than a regular 3-series.

No need to overcomplicate it. If you feel you must release the pressure then you can hold a towel over the fitting in the engine bay which is much easier to disconnect. About 1oz of fuel will be expelled and then you can go back to the tank well and remove the parts.

You need to remove the pump side (passenger side) to release the transfer hoses before you can remove the sender side (driver side) The whole process is easy. Should take less than 1 hour taking your time. Suggest you go with VDO or OEM parts, aftermarket parts from Oreilley, Advance, Pep-Boys etc don't have the same original fit or quality.

Yessir. OEM ordered. Waiting on my schedule to slow down. In the mean time, this new Exxon eau de toilette is off the hook!

[douglee25]

Following up on this one.... swapped out the old transfer pump today. Entire job took about 30 mins +/-. The old piece had tiny cracks along the top which caused fuel to drip down towards the base. Ultimately fuel would puddle up here... hence the smell. Should be good to go now. Thanks for everyone's help.

[svinfinity]

Originally Posted by douglee25

Following up on this one.... swapped out the old transfer pump today. Entire job took about 30 mins +/-. The old piece had tiny cracks along the top which caused fuel to drip down towards the base. Ultimately fuel would puddle up here... hence the smell. Should be good to go now. Thanks for everyone's help.

i'm about to do the same job. Any tips or suggestions? Fairly nervous as i've never worked with the gas tank before and it's tight back there in a coupe.

[douglee25]

Originally Posted by svinfinity

i'm about to do the same job. Any tips or suggestions? Fairly nervous as i've never worked with the gas tank before and it's tight back there in a coupe.

Pretty straightforward. Remove rear seat, start engine, disconnect fuel pump power. Remove fuel pump and transfer pump retaining rings and associated wiring/hoses from the top. Remove fuel pump top assembly then remove center hose in fuel pump base (you'll see it going towards the driver side in a group of three hoses). Attach pull string to bundle of hoses. Remove transfer pump from tank and pull hoses through. Reinstall in the reverse.

[TenOx]

I did this repair because of the fuel smell. This thread was very helpful and accurate though the swap took me a bit longer. Things I would add for the next person, find a way (as above) to release the fuel pressure! Pressure remains in the fuel line that goes forward. I had the thing installed, but hadn't gotten that fuel line in fully, so the car would not start. I started to go through the work I'd done, first thing was that fuel line - was it fully in? No! It clicks when you have it in right, and mine hadn't. I gave it a tug, not knowing about the click and got to take a shower for my trouble as the yet un-clicked but now presurized fuel line pulled free! Ive been doing the tug test on things I've attached for decades but never, not once, found one I thought was inserted but it was not, haha!

Next, I'd definitely buy a tool to remove the hold-down rings. They are the metal variety. I skimped on a tool I thought I'd only use once, but it was cheap Ch. crap! I spent 60 minutes filing hooks into the thing and now it works great. $50 - $70 will get you a better tool. If you damage the rings new ones are available and not expensive, I saw when looking again at the tools I should have bought. The modified tool:

Use up at least 3/4 of your gas or more. Get a siphon tube with a bulb and empty the rest of the gas into a clean, correct container and cap it off! Remember liquid gas doesn't explode, it will burn, but GAS VAPOR EXPLODES!! And gas vapor is heavier than air...3 tablespoons of gasoline in vapor form == how-many-sticks-of-dynamite?! Work ina well ventilated are - outside would be best. Put at least 1.5 gallons back in your tank before you try to start the car, I read in Bentley that running the fuel pump dry will damage it.

I bought my 335i used. It had been used on a track in the desert and had dirt where I didn't know there were places, like caked up on the top of the gas tank, on the fuel pump and on the sending unit. Work clean around fuel systems: scrape and vacuum all that dirt, use your roommate's toothbrush, moist & soapy paper towels, whatever, but get it clean before you crack it open so you don't get dirt and dust in the tank.

When I went to pull the three tubes back through with my string it slipped off. I thought I was truly hosed, but I put a twist tie around the three about 4" from their ends then tried slipping the bundle across a couple of times and voila. Wear some gloves and Keep Gas off of your skin. That was important when I was reaching into the tank. BTW, two of the tubes IIRC are clipped in place but don't fasten over an adapter. One is like a vent tube, the other...not sure

[douglee25]

Good deal!

[delirium330]

Just did this, replaced the fuel pump and transfer pump. Great suggestion above about releasing pressure by unplugging the pump while car is started then disconnecting the battery. I also recommend getting fuel tank to less than 1/4 tank before starting work.

Unfortunately upon filling up the tank, the dash fuel gauge will max out between 3/4 and full. I drove it down to half tank, then tried another fill up and still reading between 3/4 and full. Can someone let me know which pump has the level float? Is is the passenger side pump or driver side transfer pump? Or both? Putting those back in was a bit of a pain as they took some manipulation to install through the holes at the top of the fuel tank. I wonder if one is caught up on something?

[pirategenes]

Originally Posted by delirium330

Just did this, replaced the fuel pump and transfer pump. Great suggestion above about releasing pressure by unplugging the pump while car is started then disconnecting the battery. I also recommend getting fuel tank to less than 1/4 tank before starting work.

Unfortunately upon filling up the tank, the dash fuel gauge will max out between 3/4 and full. I drove it down to half tank, then tried another fill up and still reading between 3/4 and full. Can someone let me know which pump has the level float? Is is the passenger side pump or driver side transfer pump? Or both? Putting those back in was a bit of a pain as they took some manipulation to install through the holes at the top of the fuel tank. I wonder if one is caught up on something?

Similar thing happened to me when I did this. If I recall correctly the float is on the passenger side. I think it’s easy to get tangled up during the reinstall. Once I set it back in the fuel level reads correctly. At least this was the experience I had. Good luck resolving it.

[delirium330]

Looking at the old parts I still have in a box, there are floats on both sides.

[gcneu62]

Originally Posted by douglee25

2008 E90 M3 - fuel sender on driver's side must be cracked. Smelled fuel and traced it to a small puddle on top of the fuel sender.

Ordered the replacement and will be ready to install shortly.

Question - Do you recommend also replacing the lines that come with the new sender, or just disconnecting the lines and reusing the existing ones?

Using the new lines would require removing the fuel pump on the passenger side, attaching a fish line, pulling the lines out on the driver's side, and installing in the reverse.

Thoughts?

Thanks.

Doug

Hi, not sure if I can post but I am looking for advice how to find a decent high pressure fuel pump replacement.

Thanks,
Greg

[douglee25]

Search real oem for the part number and then Google for the best pricing. Lots of forum sponsors who take good care of us too.

[bitchincamaro]

Originally Posted by ciges

Also be careful when disconnecting fuel line on top of sender,it is pressurized and fuel will spray all over you and interior of the car(ask me how I know).You need to release fuel pressure with special tool from fuel rail ,or disconnect fuel pump electrical connector and run engine till it runs out of fuel and stalls(it will throw check engine light and warnings on dash,but it will clear as soon as you plug in connector back when job is done).Fuel pump removal link with pics:https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tec...eplacement.htm

Sorry to resurrect this old thread - Dealing with a related issue.

Had the car into the shop because my garage would smell like gas after filling up the tank. NO SMELL in the interior.

Shop replaced both fuel pumps under the back seat. Returned the car and it REEKED like gas inside. Aired it out for a few days, no change. Shop Ozoned it for a day. Slightly better but still smells of fuel.

Took it to get interior detailed. Interior STILL has a slight fuel smell, and I swear it makes me a little light-headed driving it.

When you had the gas get in your interior, did you have this much trouble removing the smell? Did it eventually go away?

Im trying to decide next steps here. Very upset with the shop (which has always been good to me). I took in a car with no smell in the interior, and paid a lot of money for a newly tainted interior.

[douglee25]

I would take the seat out (take 1 min - no tools) and pop off the cover on each side of the tanks. You will likely be able to use your nose and find which side the smell is coming from (may be both?). I'm guessing the tank seal got twisted or the tech didn't tighten down the lock ring enough. The smell is usually gone in a day or two tops. Something doesn't sound right to me.

[bitchincamaro]

Originally Posted by douglee25

I would take the seat out (take 1 min - no tools) and pop off the cover on each side of the tanks. You will likely be able to use your nose and find which side the smell is coming from (may be both?). I'm guessing the tank seal got twisted or the tech didn't tighten down the lock ring enough. The smell is usually gone in a day or two tops. Something doesn't sound right to me.

Well, thats the first thing I did - take it back to them and have them double check. It's hard to imagine they're that incompetent that they wouldn't get it fixed after a re-inspection.

Only thing I can think is they REALLY spilled a lot of fuel into the carpets, or there is another leak somewhere else. Kind of at my wits end.

[douglee25]

Originally Posted by bitchincamaro

Well, thats the first thing I did - take it back to them and have them double check. It's hard to imagine they're that incompetent that they wouldn't get it fixed after a re-inspection.

Only thing I can think is they REALLY spilled a lot of fuel into the carpets, or there is another leak somewhere else. Kind of at my wits end.

I didn't even think of the carpets, but I suppose it's possible.

I'd start sniffing around and see if you can pinpoint the source of the smell exactly.