Rod Bearings Replaced - Question

[Scharbag]

So, I changed my rod bearings in December. I used BE bearings with BE ARP hardware, Redline assembly lube and a new digital torque wrench. Started the car and ran it for a bit in my garage. Everything sounded great. Did some u-turns on my driveway and then changed the oil. Checked the filter for metal and it was all good (Oil only had about 500KM on it due to my bad planning).

Today was the first real drive (40KM) with the car with fresh bearings and fresh oil. All seems good so far (other than some self induced tune issues that Alex sorted for me). Did a few full throttle pulls to 7000RPM. Oil temp stays right below 100C.

My question is (because I am paranoid): If something bearing related was going to fail due to an installation error, would have already failed? Everything I have read points to bearings being very UNFORGIVING. Just need someone to hold my hand and tell me everything is going to be alright

Thanks,

[8500RPM]

Originally Posted by Scharbag

So, I changed my rod bearings in December. I used BE bearings with BE ARP hardware, Redline assembly lube and a new digital torque wrench. Started the car and ran it for a bit in my garage. Everything sounded great. Did some u-turns on my driveway and then changed the oil. Checked the filter for metal and it was all good (Oil only had about 500KM on it due to my bad planning).

Today was the first real drive (40KM) with the car with fresh bearings and fresh oil. All seems good so far (other than some self induced tune issues that Alex sorted for me). Did a few full throttle pulls to 7000RPM. Oil temp stays right below 100C.

My question is (because I am paranoid): If something bearing related was going to fail due to an installation error, would have already failed? Everything I have read points to bearing be very UNFORGIVING. Just need someone to hold my hand and tell me everything is going to be alright

Thanks,

You should be good to go. If you messed up the install the motor would let you know very quickly.

[Scharbag]

Originally Posted by 8500RPM

You should be good to go. If you messed up the install the motor would let you know very quickly.

Thank you!

Now to solve the small exhaust leak on the test pipe clamps...

[SYT_Shadow]

You're good, it would have already blown up

Good choice on the bearings and hardware by the way

[///M3Fresh]

Originally Posted by Scharbag

Thank you!

Now to solve the small exhaust leak on the test pipe clamps...

Have it welded! ;D

[8500RPM]

Where did you get the parts? I'm not gonna do my bearings for another 10-15k miles but I feel like just hording the parts now.

I'm looking for BE bearings and bolts

[Scharbag]

Originally Posted by 8500RPM

Where did you get the parts? I'm not gonna do my bearings for another 10-15k miles but I feel like just hording the parts now.

I'm looking for BE bearings and bolts

Fastattack is where I got mine. The BE website also has the option to buy from them too.

Cheers,

[Scharbag]

Originally Posted by ///M3Fresh

Have it welded! ;D

Welding stainless is not a lot of fun... But likely the best idea.

[Scharbag]

So I checked my filter housing after 100KM cause I am paranoid. Unfortunately, I noticed a bit of fine metal shavings in there. Causing me some real heart pain...

So I drained the oil into a clean container. Some very small metallic flakes were in there. More heart pain.

There are no big pieces in the filter that I ripped apart (filter really has very little in it).

Put a new filter and new oil in it. My one mechanic buddy took a look at the filter housing and filter and is of the opinion that nothing catastrophic has happened. Not sure what to do now - kinda losing my mind...

Any suggestions?

:|

[Transfer]

This is why I stopped working on my cars. Too much stress for me. Sorry, that doesn't help.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by Scharbag

So I checked my filter housing after 100KM cause I am paranoid. Unfortunately, I noticed a bit of fine metal shavings in there. Causing me some real heart pain...

So I drained the oil into a clean container. Some very small metallic flakes were in there. More heart pain.

There are no big pieces in the filter that I ripped apart (filter really has very little in it).

Put a new filter and new oil in it. My one mechanic buddy took a look at the filter housing and filter and is of the opinion that nothing catastrophic has happened. Not sure what to do now - kinda losing my mind...

Any suggestions?

:|

Is this AFTER the bearing change last Dec or what Scharbag?

[330ciprem]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

Is this AFTER the bearing change last Dec or what Scharbag?

Correct. After the bearing change.

Scharbag - Is there ANYWAY to check if there is any issue without removing the bearings, again?

I reckon it's gonna be a lot of work dropping the pan again.

[pbonsalb]

I would be more stressed by most mechanics working on my car. Most, not all - I read from a few here that I would gladly turn my car over to but I’d rather save the money and put it in the 991.1TT fund.

Most likely your motor is fine. If you want to be cautious, drive gently for 1000 miles. There are a few shops that change these bearings and aren’t confident about their work and recommend driving gently for 1000 miles in the hope the customer hears a problem before it causes damage. You can do the same.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by Transfer

This is why I stopped working on my cars. Too much stress for me. Sorry, that doesn't help.

I am a lot more stressed by others working on my cars. I'd have deansbimmer for example work on my car

Like the BMW-dealership clowns that torque my wheels to 250lbft

Like the BMW-dealership clowns that turn hex oil pan bolts into torx-looking things

Like the highly reputed Indy that helicoiled my M3 oil pan

Like the local shop which everyone raves about that charged 230 to align my M3, gave me a printout that showed one corner was completely off, assured me the computer 'made mistakes' and finally called back 3h later that they had missed something the first time around

As everyone else does things poorly I prefer to do them poorly myself, that way I know if I've broken something instead of 'closing her up' and hoping the customer forgets about you

[deansbimmer]

Some tiny metallic flecks are normal in drained oil. You could have the oil analysed and look for copper but it's also possible it's wear from the mains. If you did everything 'by the book' on the RB job you should have anything to worry about.

Or you can post a pic of the flakes you're looking at.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

Like the BMW-dealership clowns that torque my wheels to 250lbft

Like the BMW-dealership clowns that turn hex oil pan bolts into torx-looking things

Like the highly reputed Indy that helicoiled my M3 oil pan

Like the local shop which everyone raves about that charged 230 to align my M3, gave me a printout that showed one corner was completely off, assured me the computer 'made mistakes' and finally called back 3h later that they had missed something the first time around

Like the BMW dealer that poured MT fluid in my DCT, ended with a new box/cooler/lines. Yep, know the feeling when not having complete trust.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by deansbimmer

Some tiny metallic flecks are normal in drained oil. You could have the oil analysed and look for copper but it's also possible it's wear from the mains. If you did everything 'by the book' on the RB job you should have anything to worry about.

Or you can post a pic of the flakes you're looking at.

Interesting, so small metallic pieces in the filter is still ok? I'd be crazy worried so another good input Deansbimmer. Then again I found a nice shop that does it for me, what you don't know about...

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

Like the BMW dealer that poured MT fluid in my DCT, ended with a new box/cooler/lines. Yep, know the feeling when not having complete trust.

yup... the incompetence is scary sometimes. Nevertheless, there ARE good mechanics

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

yup... the incompetence is scary sometimes. Nevertheless, there ARE good mechanics

If I only could have my own Deansbimmer close by... wonder if he thought about cloning and ship his twin to Sweden..

[deansbimmer]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

If I only could have my own Deansbimmer close by... wonder if he thought about cloning and ship his twin to Sweden..

I need a clone here just to complete my daily tasks. Maybe I could get a bulk discount for a fleet of clones.

When I say some metal flake is OK, I'm not talking about metal shavings you can pick up out of the oil. Much of that is no bueno. Some tiny flecks are OK, the kind that just create a metallic sheen to the oil. Micro.

[///M3Fresh]

Originally Posted by deansbimmer

I need a clone here just to complete my daily tasks. Maybe I could get a bulk discount for a fleet of clones.

When I say some metal flake is OK, I'm not talking about metal shavings you can pick up out of the oil. Much of that is no bueno. Some tiny flecks are OK, the kind that just create a metallic sheen to the oil. Micro.

Out of curiosity, what would those be coming from? the RB "settling/breaking in"?

Also keep in mind, he already went thru a first change of oil, so wouldn't all of that be present then?

I would have the oil analyzed and not drive it till you get that report back first, just to be safe.

[deansbimmer]

Originally Posted by ///M3Fresh

Out of curiosity, what would those be coming from? the RB "settling/breaking in"?

First, I have no idea what Scharbag is looking at in his oil. "Shavings" to me may mean something totally different to him.

You can't look at oil and tell where the metal is coming from. The engine is all metal, it wears and all that material metal gets pulled out in the oil. If he's seeing obvious copper shavings then that's an obvious red flag. An analyses will help determine the type of metal and its concentrations.