Rod bearings and motor mounts being done soon...

[rdoctor]

m3post RB gurus... I'm getting my rod bearings changed (BE bearings and BE ARP bolts) early next week along with my motor mounts (OEM) at a very reputable performance auto shop (European Road & Racing, Charleston). I've known these guys and the owner for 15+ years and I trust them. They work on only high end performance cars and they've done several s65 bearing jobs.... but is there anything else I should be asking them to do or look at during this job?

They will keep the bearings for me so I can see their condition....Anything else I should ask about?

BTW...2009 e92M3, 52,000 miles, mods in signature.

[8500RPM]

I mean they'll let you know if they find anything fishy while in the bottom of the motor. While it's on the lift they can check the condition of all the suspension parts/bushings.

Maybe if you haven't changed your tranny/diff fluids before now would be a good time? Up to you

[SYT_Shadow]

Good call on the bolts and bearings!

The only other related job is the motor mounts which you already mention

[Bmw doubles]

At what mileage do motor mounts start to go bad on stock setups? I could imagine supercharged systems causing quicker wear.

[aus]

OP, which mounts are you getting?

Bmw doubles: it seems the stock mounts are done by 50,000 miles.
.

[rdoctor]

BMW M3 motor mounts. I did some research and for street use with occasional track use these OEM mounts seem to be the popular choice. From my research they can start going bad at 30,000 miles but definitely by 50,000,

Originally Posted by aus

OP, which mounts are you getting?

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by Bmw doubles

At what mileage do motor mounts start to go bad on stock setups? I could imagine supercharged systems causing quicker wear.

Looks like they go bad quite quickly

One of my cars had 31k and they were starting to crack. The other with 36k was more cracked.

After that it's been 2 cars with 50k miles and they were both completely toast. Saw another one last weekend with ~65k miles and they were demolished

[pbonsalb]

Mine with 60k were not leaking visibly but had collapsed slightly compared to the new Corteco that I installed.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

Mine with 60k were not leaking visibly but had collapsed slightly compared to the new Corteco that I installed.

Corteco? What is this Corteco you speak of?

If we don't want to buy OEM BMW, shouldn't we use Lemforder which builds lots of goodies for our cars?

[deansbimmer]

Corteco is an alternate OES manufacturer for BMW just like Lemforder. Nothing wrong with them.

[Iyzmi]

The shop I plan on using for bearings recommended changing the power steering fluid at no additional labor cost. I would also do transmission mounts in addition to motor mounts.

[Bmw doubles]

50-60k seems about right. My 535 and my Benz 350 both had noticeable mount problems close to 80k so that might indicate the issue started around 50-60k.

[deansbimmer]

Originally Posted by Iyzmi

The shop I plan on using for bearings recommended changing the power steering fluid at no additional labor cost. I would also do transmission mounts in addition to motor mounts.

Power steering fluid should be assumed. It is all but completely drained anyway when you remove the subframe. Same with engine mounts. I include those on every RB job I do, it's included in my job rate.

[pbonsalb]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

Corteco? What is this Corteco you speak of?

If we don't want to buy OEM BMW, shouldn't we use Lemforder which builds lots of goodies for our cars?

Corteco makes the mounts for BMW. Lemforder makes a lot of suspension parts for BMW and has a good reputation, but is not the only supplier. A lot of the suspension parts on our M3s are actually made by TRW for BMW.

[pbonsalb]

You can undo the two rack bolts and the rack hose clips to allow the lines to move and leave the PS system intact. A good idea to change it periodically, however, like all fluids.

[rdoctor]

OP here... I'm taking the car to the shop in about 30 minutes. I'll ask about the PS fluid and tranny mounts.

I've read that the subframe needs to be removed to get to the RB's...which makes sense...but I've also read about shops dropping the steering rack too? Is that true about the steering rack? I've heard some shops automatically include the front alignment because of this.

[Scharbag]

Originally Posted by rdoctor

OP here... I'm taking the car to the shop in about 30 minutes. I'll ask about the PS fluid and tranny mounts.

I've read that the subframe needs to be removed to get to the RB's...which makes sense...but I've also read about shops dropping the steering rack too? Is that true about the steering rack? I've heard some shops automatically include the front alignment because of this.

The rack is bolted to the sub-frame. I think it is really easy just to unbolt the banjo bolts, lower control arms and the tie rod ends and the sub-frame is out of your way.

As mentioned, this is a perfect opportunity to change the PS fluid!!

[deansbimmer]

The way a shop would do this (the quickest way) is to drop the subframe with the rack attached. No undoing banjo bolts, control arms, tie rods, etc. This is the same way BMW does it when they need to remove the subframe.

Remove and hang brake calipers, top sway bar links, electrical connectors.
Three nuts at the top of each strut tower
One bolt at the steering rack/column connection
8 bolts subframe-to-chassis
One PS line at the cooler
One PS connection in the hard line, about 1qt will drain.

You can then drop the subframe intact, PS rack included. Once on a lift you can have a complete subframe out of the car in one hour. If you do it this way there should be no changes to any alignment spec when reinstalled. This has been confirmed on an aligment rack on a couple of occasions after RB jobs. If you're on your back under jacks and need to fiddle with the rack or inner suspension connections because of limited clearances then you'll need to have an alignment performed.

[Scharbag]

Originally Posted by deansbimmer

The way a shop would do this (the quickest way) is to drop the subframe with the rack attached. No undoing banjo bolts, control arms, tie rods, etc. This is the same way BMW does it when they need to remove the subframe.

Remove and hang brake calipers, top sway bar links, electrical connectors.
Three nuts at the top of each strut tower
One bolt at the steering rack/column connection
8 bolts subframe-to-chassis
One PS line at the cooler
One PS connection in the hard line, about 1qt will drain.

You can then drop the subframe intact, PS rack included. Once on a lift you can have a complete subframe out of the car in one hour. If you do it this way there should be no changes to any alignment spec when reinstalled. This has been confirmed on an aligment rack on a couple of occasions after RB jobs. If you're on your back under jacks and need to fiddle with the rack or inner suspension connections because of limited clearances then you'll need to have an alignment performed.

That is a much heavier bunch of stuff to drop if you are on jack stands!! Plus it will take up more space in a small garage

[deansbimmer]

Originally Posted by Scharbag

That is a much heavier bunch of stuff to drop if you are on jack stands!!

It's not that heavy. You should be dropping all of it down with a jack anyway.

[Scharbag]

Originally Posted by deansbimmer

It's not that heavy. You should be dropping all of it down with a jack anyway.

I cheated with a milk crate...

Ghetto Garage Services - How may I help you?

[dbyrd]

Originally Posted by deansbimmer

Same with engine mounts. I include those on every RB job I do, it's included in my job rate.

I didn't know you did this in the DFW area. I'm having mine done next week. Please PM your shop info, and your job rate if you can share. I'm trying to put your face/car with your signature. I know we've spoken before.

I was also considering replacing the thrust bearings with Bimmerworld's. Likely going with Motul 300v 15w-50.