The heater does not heat

RomanK · 01-23-2018, 01:42 PM

Hello guys.

Noticed that the water temp was 67-70 on the highway... I decided to change my thermostat... Now all is ok - 78-80 water temp. But I noticed that my stove does not heat good. It heats but not so good like it was earlier. It takes a lot of time to heat interior even if engine already completely warmed up. Seems that there are an air in the system.

How to take off the air?

Sorry for my english.

Dave07997S · 01-23-2018, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RomanK

Hello guys.

Noticed that the water temp was 67-70 on the highway... I decided to change my thermostat... Now all is ok - 78-80 water temp. But I noticed that my stove does not heat good. It heats but not so good like it was earlier. It takes a lot of time to heat interior even if engine already completely warmed up. Seems that there are an air in the system.

How to take off the air?

Sorry for my english.

To be honest this is the wrong section for this.

Dave

C-los · 01-23-2018, 03:35 PM

Considering you drained the coolant to replace the thermostat, The water bottle should have a bleed screw that you open (looks like a giant phillips head) and there's where your purge the majority of the air.

IF you still have air, i normally find the highest coolant hose, (they are normally small) and pop that open and continue to fill until it too, pours a steady stream of coolant.

If you still have problems either:

a) run the heater with engine fully warmed up, and hold the rpms' at about 3.5k. This will make the thermostat fully open and the water pump to start circulation the water around the engine to help push any more air bubbles, a lot of the time, heater cores are =/below the engine, so air get's trapped in there, and needs to be forced out.

b) drain it completely again of coolant (catch it in a clean container if you'd like to save $) remove the highest coolant hose as you did earlier, and start pouring coolant through the reservoir, this will help force as the engine fills, all if not most of the air through this open hose until coolant pours out, then reattach it, crack bleeder screw on reservoir, and fill until all air is out that way as well.

i couldn't tell you which hose is the highest hose at the moment, since i have not has to perform any coolant system services on this particular engine yet, but i will be soon once i'm ready to perform my throttle body service/cleaning and remove the plenum to take a look at everything...

hope this helps

RomanK · 01-23-2018, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C-los

Considering you drained the coolant to replace the thermostat, The water bottle should have a bleed screw that you open (looks like a giant phillips head) and there's where your purge the majority of the air.

IF you still have air, i normally find the highest coolant hose, (they are normally small) and pop that open and continue to fill until it too, pours a steady stream of coolant.

If you still have problems either:

a) run the heater with engine fully warmed up, and hold the rpms' at about 3.5k. This will make the thermostat fully open and the water pump to start circulation the water around the engine to help push any more air bubbles, a lot of the time, heater cores are =/below the engine, so air get's trapped in there, and needs to be forced out.

b) drain it completely again of coolant (catch it in a clean container if you'd like to save $) remove the highest coolant hose as you did earlier, and start pouring coolant through the reservoir, this will help force as the engine fills, all if not most of the air through this open hose until coolant pours out, then reattach it, crack bleeder screw on reservoir, and fill until all air is out that way as well.

i couldn't tell you which hose is the highest hose at the moment, since i have not has to perform any coolant system services on this particular engine yet, but i will be soon once i'm ready to perform my throttle body service/cleaning and remove the plenum to take a look at everything...

hope this helps

Thank you.. But I drove my car already 4 days with it. I tried to open the coolant expansion tank and run the engine and wait 15 min. I holded the RPM on the highway... I even reached red zone on taho several times... I think I should drain all coolant and fill it again...

eatsleepboost · 01-23-2018, 08:42 PM

I have not worked on the e9x heating system directly but on any car that I am working on that has a complaint of poor heat there is a few things I always check.

Use your hand or a infrared thermometer to check the temps on your coolant hoses. Check all the hoses to see if you find one that is cold with the engine at operating temperature. There should be 2 hoses going into the firewall for the heater core which provides your heat. Those 2 hoses should be fairly close in temperature and should be just as hot as the other hoses.

If that all checks out you may just be worrying too much and think you made a mistake and you did not. What you could also do is if you or someone you know has the same car you could do a test and start them both cold and put the heat on the same desired temperature. Let them each run for the same amount of time then check the inside air temperature to see if your car is colder.

If you are draining and filling your coolant again there is a tool that I always use for that job. If you have access to an air pressure line and the vacuum tool you can pull a vacuum on the coolant system and full it while under vacuum. Never any air in the system. Another quick and easier trick is to jack up the front of the car where the coolant expansion tank is and run the engine with the cap off. Since that is now the highest point any air bubbles should bubble out.

Hard to explain all this through words.

01-23-2018, 01:42 PM	#1
RomanK Private First Class 52 Rep 136 Posts Drives: M3 Coupe E92 DCT Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: St. Petersburg iTrader: (0)	The heater does not heat Hello guys. Noticed that the water temp was 67-70 on the highway... I decided to change my thermostat... Now all is ok - 78-80 water temp. But I noticed that my stove does not heat good. It heats but not so good like it was earlier. It takes a lot of time to heat interior even if engine already completely warmed up. Seems that there are an air in the system. How to take off the air? Sorry for my english.
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01-23-2018, 03:35 PM	#3
C-los Second Lieutenant 70 Rep 258 Posts Drives: 2013 M3 Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Tx iTrader: (4)	Considering you drained the coolant to replace the thermostat, The water bottle should have a bleed screw that you open (looks like a giant phillips head) and there's where your purge the majority of the air. IF you still have air, i normally find the highest coolant hose, (they are normally small) and pop that open and continue to fill until it too, pours a steady stream of coolant. If you still have problems either: a) run the heater with engine fully warmed up, and hold the rpms' at about 3.5k. This will make the thermostat fully open and the water pump to start circulation the water around the engine to help push any more air bubbles, a lot of the time, heater cores are =/below the engine, so air get's trapped in there, and needs to be forced out. b) drain it completely again of coolant (catch it in a clean container if you'd like to save $) remove the highest coolant hose as you did earlier, and start pouring coolant through the reservoir, this will help force as the engine fills, all if not most of the air through this open hose until coolant pours out, then reattach it, crack bleeder screw on reservoir, and fill until all air is out that way as well. i couldn't tell you which hose is the highest hose at the moment, since i have not has to perform any coolant system services on this particular engine yet, but i will be soon once i'm ready to perform my throttle body service/cleaning and remove the plenum to take a look at everything... hope this helps
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01-23-2018, 08:42 PM	#5
eatsleepboost Captain 425 Rep 656 Posts Drives: Evo Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: Boston iTrader: (1)	I have not worked on the e9x heating system directly but on any car that I am working on that has a complaint of poor heat there is a few things I always check. Use your hand or a infrared thermometer to check the temps on your coolant hoses. Check all the hoses to see if you find one that is cold with the engine at operating temperature. There should be 2 hoses going into the firewall for the heater core which provides your heat. Those 2 hoses should be fairly close in temperature and should be just as hot as the other hoses. If that all checks out you may just be worrying too much and think you made a mistake and you did not. What you could also do is if you or someone you know has the same car you could do a test and start them both cold and put the heat on the same desired temperature. Let them each run for the same amount of time then check the inside air temperature to see if your car is colder. If you are draining and filling your coolant again there is a tool that I always use for that job. If you have access to an air pressure line and the vacuum tool you can pull a vacuum on the coolant system and full it while under vacuum. Never any air in the system. Another quick and easier trick is to jack up the front of the car where the coolant expansion tank is and run the engine with the cap off. Since that is now the highest point any air bubbles should bubble out. Hard to explain all this through words.
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