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      12-27-2017, 02:54 PM   #243
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Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
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Originally Posted by Duk996 View Post
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Originally Posted by deansbimmer View Post
Remove the lower column shaft bolt. There is even a notch cut out in the frame to access it from the driver wheel well.
Dean, is there a good way to know when the wheel is centered? After I disconnected the steering input from the rack the wheel might have spun around 360 degrees one way or another. Is looking at the clock spring the only way?
Shouldn't matter if the steering wheel spun.
Yeah? No clock spring to get overwound when maxing a left or right turn? I admittedly haven't taken it apart to see how it all works.
You might eventually run out of turns but dang...you might be 1 turn off either way? Unless your kid gets in and starts playing with it.
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      12-27-2017, 09:07 PM   #244
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Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
You might eventually run out of turns but dang...you might be 1 turn off either way? Unless your kid gets in and starts playing with it.
One turn off can break the " clock spring" ( known as the SZL - Switch center, steering column) There isn't alot of play in the ribbon cable past full lock, and you'll most likely break it if the wheel has been turned 360*.

I've seen this done by other techs while servicing oil pan gaskets on N54's. Same SZL used in all E9X chassis models.
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      12-27-2017, 09:19 PM   #245
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Worst case you can buy a used switchgear assembly on eBay for $150. That’s what I did to make MDM possible.
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      12-30-2017, 09:59 AM   #246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Duk996 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Duk996 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by deansbimmer View Post
Remove the lower column shaft bolt. There is even a notch cut out in the frame to access it from the driver wheel well.
Dean, is there a good way to know when the wheel is centered? After I disconnected the steering input from the rack the wheel might have spun around 360 degrees one way or another. Is looking at the clock spring the only way?
Shouldn't matter if the steering wheel spun.
Yeah? No clock spring to get overwound when maxing a left or right turn? I admittedly haven't taken it apart to see how it all works.
You might eventually run out of turns but dang...you might be 1 turn off either way? Unless your kid gets in and starts playing with it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Duk996 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Duk996 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by deansbimmer View Post
Remove the lower column shaft bolt. There is even a notch cut out in the frame to access it from the driver wheel well.
Dean, is there a good way to know when the wheel is centered? After I disconnected the steering input from the rack the wheel might have spun around 360 degrees one way or another. Is looking at the clock spring the only way?
Shouldn't matter if the steering wheel spun.
Yeah? No clock spring to get overwound when maxing a left or right turn? I admittedly haven't taken it apart to see how it all works.
You might eventually run out of turns but dang...you might be 1 turn off either way? Unless your kid gets in and starts playing with it.
I guess. I've done this job on 4 cars and this has never crossed my mind. The wheel is maybe a a little off center before I reconnect the shaft. I always start the car and turn the steering wheel from lock to lock to bleed in the power steering.

You really have to try to screw it up where you are a full turn off.
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      12-30-2017, 01:34 PM   #247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
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Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
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Originally Posted by Duk996 View Post
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Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
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Originally Posted by Duk996 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by deansbimmer View Post
Remove the lower column shaft bolt. There is even a notch cut out in the frame to access it from the driver wheel well.
Dean, is there a good way to know when the wheel is centered? After I disconnected the steering input from the rack the wheel might have spun around 360 degrees one way or another. Is looking at the clock spring the only way?
Shouldn't matter if the steering wheel spun.
Yeah? No clock spring to get overwound when maxing a left or right turn? I admittedly haven't taken it apart to see how it all works.
You might eventually run out of turns but dang...you might be 1 turn off either way? Unless your kid gets in and starts playing with it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Duk996 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Duk996 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by deansbimmer View Post
Remove the lower column shaft bolt. There is even a notch cut out in the frame to access it from the driver wheel well.
Dean, is there a good way to know when the wheel is centered? After I disconnected the steering input from the rack the wheel might have spun around 360 degrees one way or another. Is looking at the clock spring the only way?
Shouldn't matter if the steering wheel spun.
Yeah? No clock spring to get overwound when maxing a left or right turn? I admittedly haven't taken it apart to see how it all works.
You might eventually run out of turns but dang...you might be 1 turn off either way? Unless your kid gets in and starts playing with it.
I guess. I've done this job on 4 cars and this has never crossed my mind. The wheel is maybe a a little off center before I reconnect the shaft. I always start the car and turn the steering wheel from lock to lock to bleed in the power steering.

You really have to try to screw it up where you are a full turn off.
I disagree, if the steering is disconnected and not bungeed as mentioned, all it takes is a half turn one way or another before you don't know which way to go to get it centered again. If you guess wrong you're off 360.
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      01-10-2018, 10:32 AM   #248
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Just to be sure, the surface the bearing seats to is supposed to completely dry, correct?
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      01-10-2018, 11:35 AM   #249
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Just to be sure, the surface the bearing seats to is supposed to completely dry, correct?
Yes, behind the shells should be clean and as dry as possible. Only put oil or assembly lube on the side that faces the crank journal after the bearing shells are seated properly in the rod.
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      01-10-2018, 12:08 PM   #250
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Yes, behind the shells should be clean and as dry as possible. Only put oil or assembly lube on the side that faces the crank journal after the bearing shells are seated properly in the rod.
That's what I thought, thanks!
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      01-12-2018, 08:35 AM   #251
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Is any RTV needed when putting the oil pan back on? I did it on my E46 but not sure if it's even needed.
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      01-12-2018, 08:37 AM   #252
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Is any RTV needed when putting the oil pan back on? I did it on my E46 but not sure if it's even needed.

No. The metal gasket doesn't need rtv
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      01-12-2018, 08:58 AM   #253
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No. The metal gasket doesn't need rtv
Thanks! Did you end up using those extra o-rings you bought for the pick up tube?
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      01-12-2018, 09:00 AM   #254
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Thanks! Did you end up using those extra o-rings you bought for the pick up tube?
I may have the second set available as I don't think i replaced them in the second engine. Not sure though as it happened a while ago
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      01-24-2018, 05:05 PM   #255
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Do you think changing the rod bearings can be completed on a 4-post lift with a sliding scissor jack? Do you have to keep the car level?
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      01-24-2018, 06:02 PM   #256
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Do you think changing the rod bearings can be completed on a 4-post lift with a sliding scissor jack? Do you have to keep the car level?
You can even do it on jackstands!
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      01-24-2018, 06:17 PM   #257
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You can even do it on jackstands!
So it would be okay just lifting the front of the car?
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      01-24-2018, 06:21 PM   #258
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So it would be okay just lifting the front of the car?
Yes, you'd have to lift it a lot though to have proper clearance
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      01-24-2018, 08:55 PM   #259
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You can even do it on jackstands!
Wow, I remember installing a set of headers on a E46 M3...can't even imagine the pain in doing the RBs.

Dave
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      01-24-2018, 08:57 PM   #260
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Wow, I remember installing a set of headers on a E46 M3...can't even imagine the pain in doing the RBs.

Dave
Ugh, I've done headers on the e46 a couple times and I probably prefer rbs. They are very straightforward, it isn't like headers where you're contorting your hands

I'll do a set of rbs on my quickjack this summer for sure
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      01-27-2018, 01:09 AM   #261
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having a hard time reconnecting the steering column. Any advice?
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      01-27-2018, 02:42 AM   #262
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having a hard time reconnecting the steering column. Any advice?
Iirc, I did it with the subframe lowered. I recall it being a pain.
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      01-27-2018, 03:14 AM   #263
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Took me an hour, but finally did it. I loosen the bottom screw. Word of advice, remove the top steering rack screw (maybe it's easier to re-attach). This is done from the bottom of the car, not from the side.
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      01-29-2018, 12:22 PM   #264
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Fantastic DIY thread!!!!

odd that this hast been stickied here or in the DIY section.

Have most of the goodies, with some still enroute.
Will be tackling this soon.
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