Has Anyone Here Installed S/C On Their Own?

[Raek]

...as topic states.

Myself and my professional mechanic friend are going to install an ESS VT2 650 on my car over the winter. The instructions look pretty damn straight forward, and he has absolutely no qualms or worries. Looks like the most difficult part is cutting into the car to fit the intercooler.

Just wondering if there's any snags that anyone has run into or tips/tricks that anyone has.

Thanks in advance!

[thetastelingers]

You are correct. Pretty straight forward.
No secrets. Just follow the directions. No big deal.

[Patrón]

Originally Posted by Raek

...as topic states.

Myself and my professional mechanic friend are going to install an ESS VT2 650 on my car over the winter. The instructions look pretty damn straight forward, and he has absolutely no qualms or worries. Looks like the most difficult part is cutting into the car to fit the intercooler.

Just wondering if there's any snags that anyone has run into or tips/tricks that anyone has.

Thanks in advance!

If I can offer any advice it would be only on a couple of important issues:

1) make sure to align the front intercooler as far forward away from the oil cooler as possible.
2) spend extra time splicing into the tank vent valve under the intake manifold for the vacuum line that connects to the bypass valve.
3) spend extra time making sure the velocity stacks seat properly in the rubber boots, make sure not to crimp any of the rubber couplers and align the tightening clamps in advance of seating the manifold. my tech add a little lubrication in the rubber couplings.
4) i'm sure your tech will be aware but make sure there aren't any check engine lights and that you have the tune and sofware for the tune in order before the install. i had a small hiccup where the software to load the tune was not functioning properly due to an update of the manf software.
5) i'm sure you are but make sure to put new plugs and replace the sparkplug covers before the install. it's almost impossoble after the manifold is on there.
6) I can't help you with the pulleys for the 650 kit but be very careful after you've broken in the kit as instructed. you will have zero traction and 100% fun at 5k

a lift isn't necessary but helps. it's actually pretty easy and a straightforward install, just a lot of steps. I highly recommend installing a boost gauge, we still haven't been told by ESS what the vacuum should range for each kit but at least you have the boost range that you know you 'should' hit. good luck and enjoy a 'new car' because it totally changes the car.

[W Cole]

Yep. Ess 625 kit. Was easy. Cutting the car was no problem.. taking the bumper off and routing everything probably took the longest. None of it was hard though.

[romemmy]

This was the first thing I did on this car... It was easy, and ESS were super helpful too (since I purchased mine used with no instructions). They sent me the PDF instructions (which are pretty accurate), and I just had to purchase the map again from them. I actually ended up installing it twice (since I rebuilt my engine and put it back on) - the second time probably took me only a couple hours, though I had the entire front of the car off (radiators, and all), so that made it even easier.

One thing to remember, which almost bit me.. The first time, I got it all done, THEN contacted them for the map - only to find out you have to download a copy of your existing ECU map (which takes about 30 mins on these cars - my Evo takes seconds), send it to them, then they process it, and can take up to 24hrs to send you the updated map! So I'd do this step first if you don't have the map from them yet. Fortunately for me AJ @ ESS was awesome and turned it around in <1hr, else I would have been stuck for a whole day (don't ever start the car on the OEM map, of course, since you will be changing injectors that need scaling).

Thanks!

S.

[1SICKM]

Originally Posted by Patrón

If I can offer any advice it would be only on a couple of important issues:

1) make sure to align the front intercooler as far forward away from the oil cooler as possible.
2) spend extra time splicing into the tank vent valve under the intake manifold for the vacuum line that connects to the bypass valve.
3) spend extra time making sure the velocity stacks seat properly in the rubber boots, make sure not to crimp any of the rubber couplers and align the tightening clamps in advance of seating the manifold. my tech add a little lubrication in the rubber couplings.
4) i'm sure your tech will be aware but make sure there aren't any check engine lights and that you have the tune and sofware for the tune in order before the install. i had a small hiccup where the software to load the tune was not functioning properly due to an update of the manf software.
5) i'm sure you are but make sure to put new plugs and replace the sparkplug covers before the install. it's almost impossoble after the manifold is on there.
6) I can't help you with the pulleys for the 650 kit but be very careful after you've broken in the kit as instructed. you will have zero traction and 100% fun at 5k

a lift isn't necessary but helps. it's actually pretty easy and a straightforward install, just a lot of steps. I highly recommend installing a boost gauge, we still haven't been told by ESS what the vacuum should range for each kit but at least you have the boost range that you know you 'should' hit. good luck and enjoy a 'new car' because it totally changes the car.

What he said but also mounting the blower is the most challenging if you don't get that coolant line lowered properly....

[Raek]

This is all good info, guys. Thanks!

[jdamore]

When you request your tune, be sure to ask for an emissions tune (assuming your disabling the monitors because you have hi-flow cats).

[BOOF-M3]

Great idea for your car, it's just begging for a 650.

[Patrón]

Originally Posted by 1SICKM

What he said but also mounting the blower is the most challenging if you don't get that coolant line lowered properly....

Very good point i forgot to include.

I also recommend mounting the rear plastic intake tube before securing the bracket and blower. if you mount both first that tube is a bitch. luckily a friend did his first so my tech new of that beforehand.

my next project is the VF extra large heat exchanger. that will be fun. not sure if I have to do any cutting but i'm hoping to do it soon.

[Mvy]

Good advice from posters above. As others have stated, the spark plugs should be changed before you mount the kit. Everything becomes very expensive/time consuming to replace after as you have to remove/put back the blower each time to access certain parts of the car. I replaced a bunch of stuff proactively, but I am mental that way (radiator, TA's, fuel pump, water pump, fluids). Be sure to check the dif/trans fluid to see that its in good shape since you do put more stress on those parts of the car, and if money is not an issue just flush them as part of the install.

[Raek]

^^^in regards to that, the car is just about to hit only 20k. Should plugs really be replaced that early? I have no issue doing it, but it seems a little superfluous for such little mileage.

I'm definitely a little OCD with maintenance and care, so if you guys say it...I'm on it

[JsL]

Originally Posted by Raek

^^^in regards to that, the car is just about to hit only 20k. Should plugs really be replaced that early? I have no issue doing it, but it seems a little superfluous for such little mileage.

I'm definitely a little OCD with maintenance and care, so if you guys say it...I'm on it

The recommended service interval with spark plugs after going S/C'd is 7500 miles if you drive your car hard. Ignition quality is very important and the spark plugs are the knock sensors too. Your car only has 20k miles, but if it had more, I'd change the primary O2 sensors too.

[Raek]

Originally Posted by JsL

The recommended service interval with spark plugs after going S/C'd is 7500 miles if you drive your car hard. Ignition quality is very important and the spark plugs are the knock sensors too. Your car only has 20k miles, but if it had more, I'd change the primary O2 sensors too.

Excellent. Good to know.

[Iyzmi]

When you install the T fitting for the BPV line, make sure to keep the stock tank vent connection inline, with the BPV connected to the stem of the T.

Don't bother reinstalling the spark plug covers, they will make changing the spark plugs much harder than necessary in the future.

You probably don't NEED to replace the spark plugs at only 20k miles, but they're like $70 and you're already in there so might as well. As far as change interval after you install the sc, I swapped mine after 15k miles and they looked totally fine. I'll probably run them 20k miles before changing again, but I don't drive my car very hard. Mostly easy highway miles so YMMV.

[1SICKM]

Change your plugs! It's a real bitch changing with the blower and hoses installed. SC cars need plugs every 7k at least as spark is critical.