Track forum general chit chat.

[Mantii]

Originally Posted by redpriest

Well I've gone out and done it. I'll be buying this exact E46 M3 shortly - not getting rid of any of my other cars, so I'll be rotating three M cars between track days. Lol.

Haha nice! Welcome to the club. I just got rid of my F80 yesterday and picked up a new DD/Tow Rig so now I can go all out on the e46

[ayao]

Originally Posted by kpewpew

Yikes. Guess this makes me want to replace my suspension sooner and keep the ZCP parts to swap on during the 2-year rebuilds. Anybody have experience with Ohlins rebuild lead time?

I think PSI at Sonoma is an authorized service center so I imagine it should be pretty quick.

[///Mobbin]

Originally Posted by chamba002

I see you did some weight reduction

Yes yes, OE seats are all out now!! Probably 150 lbs less?? Loving the race seat btw, I had no idea how great of a benefit it was for not tiring oneself from constantly bracing. Night and day.

Originally Posted by ThunderMoose

Which direction? Videos? I'll be there in 2 weeks with NASA.

CW and my first time this direction, though I surpassed my best times in the other direction by a full 2 seconds. If you are CCW I have plenty of videos up already.

Will try and get my CW videos processed and up soon. I have some other privately posted videos from friends that I can send you also, just PM me and let me know what direction you'd like.

[redpriest]

Originally Posted by ayao

I think PSI at Sonoma is an authorized service center so I imagine it should be pretty quick.

Yeah it depends; in my case I had actual damage to the shock body which a local shop was not recommended to rebuild. (Endlink sheared off the mounting).

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by kpewpew

Yikes. Guess this makes me want to replace my suspension sooner and keep the ZCP parts to swap on during the 2-year rebuilds. Anybody have experience with Ohlins rebuild lead time?

i haven't even though of a rebuild and it's been a couple years for me. seems like they are still working though - maybe not the front left corner.

need to borrow somebody's stock set up for a while but i think i will just leave it at the shop.

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by redpriest

Yeah it depends; in my case I had actual damage to the shock body which a local shop was not recommended to rebuild. (Endlink sheared off the mounting).

"feels like a caged beast..." sounds pretty hotdog/cars&curry to me don't you think? you're just an old man.

[scotty_miller]

Modified a vault roof rack I bought off Amazon to work with the oem bmw e46 crossbars. Can fit three wheels up there and one in the trunk. So much nicer than crawling through a trunk and still have plenty of room for tools and a canopy

[CorruptCommie]

Originally Posted by scotty_miller

Modified a vault roof rack I bought off Amazon to work with the oem bmw e46 crossbars. Can fit three wheels up there and one in the trunk. So much nicer than crawling through a trunk and still have plenty of room for tools and a canopy

I've got my loading/unloading down to a science. Only need to crawl inside the trunk three times.

[scotty_miller]

Originally Posted by CorruptCommie

I've got my loading/unloading down to a science. Only need to crawl inside the trunk three times.

I had it down so I thought lol. I was tired of crawling in and out and getting my 5'5" ass stuck in the trunk and my friends at the track shutting the trunk lid on me hahaha

[macdude357]

Had fun with my wheel studs this weekend. They are about a year old so I decided to replace them. I had bought the bullet nose style so I needed to use the double-nut method to get them off. After heating one up using a propane torch, I realized that I would never get the stud hot enough with the rotor still in place since that acts like a huge heat sink. So off come the caliper and rotor. After that it was pretty easy to heat them up and get them off (in fact, it's a bit scary how easy they came out after heating them up).

Since it took so long to do just the one corner, I decided to work on the rest another day; however, since I had the car jacked up, I figured I would test fit one of my new wheels (18x10.5 Titan 7 with R888R) on the front (I had changed studs on the rear). Pulled my street wheel off, put on the new wheel, lowered the jack and checked clearances and everything looked fine. Jacked it back up, put the street wheel back on and while I was torquing it down, "snap" goes one of the studs. Trying to drill the stud with my cheap-ass drill bits wasn't cutting it. So off to Home Depot to get a carbon bit. Wasn't looking forward to trying to get that stud out but as I was drilling a hole, the heat/vibration broke the loctite bond and the stud screwed itself out the back of the hub.

And yes, I switched to the hex-head studs this time.

Fun, fun, fun.

[///Mobbin]

Originally Posted by macdude357

Had fun with my wheel studs this weekend. They are about a year old so I decided to replace them. I had bought the bullet nose style so I needed to use the double-nut method to get them off. After heating one up using a propane torch, I realized that I would never get the stud hot enough with the rotor still in place since that acts like a huge heat sink. So off come the caliper and rotor. After that it was pretty easy to heat them up and get them off (in fact, it's a bit scary how easy they came out after heating them up).

Since it took so long to do just the one corner, I decided to work on the rest another day; however, since I had the car jacked up, I figured I would test fit one of my new wheels (18x10.5 Titan 7 with R888R) on the front (I had changed studs on the rear). Pulled my street wheel off, put on the new wheel, lowered the jack and checked clearances and everything looked fine. Jacked it back up, put the street wheel back on and while I was torquing it down, "snap" goes one of the studs. Trying to drill the stud with my cheap-ass drill bits wasn't cutting it. So off to Home Depot to get a carbon bit. Wasn't looking forward to trying to get that stud out but as I was drilling a hole, the heat/vibration broke the loctite bond and the stud screwed itself out the back of the hub.

And yes, I switched to the hex-head studs this time.

Fun, fun, fun.

This describes how many of my projects have gone over the years, feel for ya, hang in there! And thanks for the lesson on this also, will be super careful when I eventually replace my wheel studs.

[ThunderMoose]

Originally Posted by ///Mobbin

Yes yes, OE seats are all out now!! Probably 150 lbs less?? Loving the race seat btw, I had no idea how great of a benefit it was for not tiring oneself from constantly bracing. Night and day.

CW and my first time this direction, though I surpassed my best times in the other direction by a full 2 seconds. If you are CCW I have plenty of videos up already.

Will try and get my CW videos processed and up soon. I have some other privately posted videos from friends that I can send you also, just PM me and let me know what direction you'd like.

I am a member there, so familiar with both directions. We go CCW with NASA in 2 weeks. Will be trying for 1:38-1:39. My best is a 1:41 CCW and a 1:38 CW. I think I am little faster CW as I have run more laps in that direction and the wall is more in play. I just like watching other people's videos especially with data overlay.

[roastbeef]

i'm due for studs before the season starts. mine are about two years old. i originally went with turner studs. i got a set of apex studs last november on black friday...

short list of things to do before the next track day in november-
1. change wheel studs
2. mount wing
3. mount bumper spats
4. replace differential bolt (nut disappeared, ecs sent a slightly different nut that stripped the bolt)

[redpriest]

Originally Posted by M3 Number 86

"feels like a caged beast..." sounds pretty hotdog/cars&curry to me don't you think? you're just an old man.

Takes one to know one 아저씨!!

[redpriest]

Originally Posted by macdude357

Had fun with my wheel studs this weekend. They are about a year old so I decided to replace them. I had bought the bullet nose style so I needed to use the double-nut method to get them off. After heating one up using a propane torch, I realized that I would never get the stud hot enough with the rotor still in place since that acts like a huge heat sink. So off come the caliper and rotor. After that it was pretty easy to heat them up and get them off (in fact, it's a bit scary how easy they came out after heating them up).

Since it took so long to do just the one corner, I decided to work on the rest another day; however, since I had the car jacked up, I figured I would test fit one of my new wheels (18x10.5 Titan 7 with R888R) on the front (I had changed studs on the rear). Pulled my street wheel off, put on the new wheel, lowered the jack and checked clearances and everything looked fine. Jacked it back up, put the street wheel back on and while I was torquing it down, "snap" goes one of the studs. Trying to drill the stud with my cheap-ass drill bits wasn't cutting it. So off to Home Depot to get a carbon bit. Wasn't looking forward to trying to get that stud out but as I was drilling a hole, the heat/vibration broke the loctite bond and the stud screwed itself out the back of the hub.

And yes, I switched to the hex-head studs this time.

Fun, fun, fun.

Yeah, the pain I had with the bullet nose studs the first time guaranteed I wasn't gonna buy them again, lol. Took like 2 hours to put one set on one wheel, haha.

[1MOREMOD]

They aren't that bad double nut and they come off never had to use heat

[dogbone]

Just get this tool to remove (unbroken) studs:

https://www.amazon.com/Shop-Iron-160...dp/B00265M8N4/

It works GREAT with an impact gun. I have used it for dozens and dozens of stud pulls. Super quick. And I put my studs on at like 40-50 ft lbs.

No heating or any other babying required.

[Mantii]

Originally Posted by dogbone

Just get this tool to remove (unbroken) studs:

https://www.amazon.com/Shop-Iron-160...dp/B00265M8N4/

It works GREAT with an impact gun. I have used it for dozens and dozens of stud pulls. Super quick. And I put my studs on at like 40-50 ft lbs.

No heating or any other babying required.

Thanks definitely going to give this a try. Sick of playing flamethrower man every time I need to put new ones in.

[///Mobbin]

Originally Posted by ThunderMoose

I am a member there, so familiar with both directions. We go CCW with NASA in 2 weeks. Will be trying for 1:38-1:39. My best is a 1:41 CCW and a 1:38 CW. I think I am little faster CW as I have run more laps in that direction and the wall is more in play. I just like watching other people's videos especially with data overlay.

Wow, those are some incredibly impressive times!! You're going to have to play my videos at 1.5x to get a semblance of pace, lol.

I like watching videos to prep also though, so I get it!

These are my best CCW laps so far, keep in mind this was with OE suspension, OE weight, stock seats, etc. so I think I'll be in for a treat next time out (1:52 best):

Last weekend was actually my first time ever running CW and I did multiple 1:50's with the MCS 2WNR, race seat/harness, and slight weight reduction helping me out. Feel good about that but tons of room to improve.

Then here is a video of my buddy in his GT4, he achieved somewhat legendary status as this was his first time ever at this track and he ran a 1:43:

I have some other private-post videos from friends that I will PM you.

Best of luck with NASA in a few weeks!! Also, if you come to COTA again in November let's sync up.

[ayao]

Originally Posted by macdude357

Had fun with my wheel studs this weekend. They are about a year old so I decided to replace them. I had bought the bullet nose style so I needed to use the double-nut method to get them off. After heating one up using a propane torch, I realized that I would never get the stud hot enough with the rotor still in place since that acts like a huge heat sink. So off come the caliper and rotor. After that it was pretty easy to heat them up and get them off (in fact, it's a bit scary how easy they came out after heating them up).

Since it took so long to do just the one corner, I decided to work on the rest another day; however, since I had the car jacked up, I figured I would test fit one of my new wheels (18x10.5 Titan 7 with R888R) on the front (I had changed studs on the rear). Pulled my street wheel off, put on the new wheel, lowered the jack and checked clearances and everything looked fine. Jacked it back up, put the street wheel back on and while I was torquing it down, "snap" goes one of the studs. Trying to drill the stud with my cheap-ass drill bits wasn't cutting it. So off to Home Depot to get a carbon bit. Wasn't looking forward to trying to get that stud out but as I was drilling a hole, the heat/vibration broke the loctite bond and the stud screwed itself out the back of the hub.

And yes, I switched to the hex-head studs this time.

Fun, fun, fun.

Painful! What brand studs were they? Were you approaching the broken stud from the front or back side of the hub?

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by dogbone

Just get this tool to remove (unbroken) studs:

https://www.amazon.com/Shop-Iron-160...dp/B00265M8N4/

It works GREAT with an impact gun. I have used it for dozens and dozens of stud pulls. Super quick. And I put my studs on at like 40-50 ft lbs.

No heating or any other babying required.

does it tighten up like a drill chuck? do you only use it for removal, or will it work for installation, too?

[ayao]

Originally Posted by dogbone

Just get this tool to remove (unbroken) studs:

https://www.amazon.com/Shop-Iron-160...dp/B00265M8N4/

It works GREAT with an impact gun. I have used it for dozens and dozens of stud pulls. Super quick. And I put my studs on at like 40-50 ft lbs.

No heating or any other babying required.

This is witchcraft!!!