Track forum general chit chat.

[YMB_M3]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

this was not my finest moment... well, depends on how you look at it. i didn't mean to pinch anyone, but i was already committed and lifting or braking over the crest wasn't an option.
i thought i could catch the rascal (the "legend" car) and made a move for it. i hate those things. slow, stinky, loud, and half broken, so you have to deal with them blowing up and being on the side of the track or getting towed out. anyways, right before turn 3, the rascal almost pancakes a chipmunk, too.

Nice line.

I couldn't help but notice that your traction control light flashes through each corner, are you using US MDM or euro MDM?

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by YMB_M3

Nice line.

I couldn't help but notice that your traction control light flashes through each corner, are you using US MDM or euro MDM?

Just regular MDM. It's my safety net. I'll take the time penalty instead of the 400 mile tow truck ride penalty.

[roastbeef]

Only time I notice interference is in turn 3 if I apex too early and turn 2 if I don't unwind the wheel enough before getting on the throttle. I'm sure it's doing stuff in just about every corner, but it's not cutting power, just doing some minor brake work.

[///Mobbin]

Zen and the art of M3 maintenance.

"Supercar" oil in and first post bearing swap sample off to Blackstone. New spark plugs up next and lower control arms after that.

[Richbot]

Originally Posted by ///Mobbin

Zen and the art of M3 maintenance.

You had to change the jets and adjust the valves?

You slept under a tree?

[NoCarrier]

Originally Posted by ///Mobbin

Zen and the art of M3 maintenance.

"Supercar" oil in and first post bearing swap sample off to Blackstone. New spark plugs up next and lower control arms after that.

I got the supplies to do my plugs soon too. All hail the Division M ignition coil tool!

[///Mobbin]

Originally Posted by NoCarrier

I got the supplies to do my plugs soon too. All hail the Division M ignition coil tool!

I do appreciate custom car specific tooling.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by ///Mobbin

Zen and the art of M3 maintenance.

"Supercar" oil in and first post bearing swap sample off to Blackstone. New spark plugs up next and lower control arms after that.

Is this oil EXACTLY the same as our "oem" 10W60? Or just a bottle swap?

I tried shell helix ultra racing last time. Although I believe it to be great oil based on what I read/researched, I've noticed my car running a tad warmer than it usually does in all driving conditions. I don't care for that. Might switch back.

[///Mobbin]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

Is this oil EXACTLY the same as our "oem" 10W60? Or just a bottle swap?

I tried shell helix ultra racing last time. Although I believe it to be great oil based on what I read/researched, I've noticed my car running a tad warmer than it usually does in all driving conditions. I don't care for that. Might switch back.

There are so many Castrol TWS 'Vintages' out now I can't keep track. This is just what Amazon happen to substitute for my order. I've been getting their 12-packs fairly often and this is the first time it has changed on me. Good pricing and others have commented they are similar formulations at least so I thought it was worth a try.

TWS Vintages Thread

[redpriest]

Originally Posted by Richbot

So are the brembos on the F8x just rental-grade or something? I feel like this is not the first time I have seen somebody off in the proverbial weeds without warning at a track day in an F8x. Reminds me of the 350z Track Pack failures. Brakes brakes brakes then no brakes kthxbye

I mean, you're in a firesuit so you were prepared

Lol. I used to think they were pretty decent, Laguna is just torture on brakes though. They will make even AP Racing BBK fade (DS1.11 pads) - lemanszcpm3 was having issues with fade.

I have to think the bleeder screw worked itself loose which is why I lost brake pressure. Might literally have to get them lockwired.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

Is this oil EXACTLY the same as our "oem" 10W60? Or just a bottle swap?

I tried shell helix ultra racing last time. Although I believe it to be great oil based on what I read/researched, I've noticed my car running a tad warmer than it usually does in all driving conditions. I don't care for that. Might switch back.

It is the same as the stuff BMW used to have before dropping Castrol for SOPUS (Shell/Pennzoil). I checked the product datasheet and it hasn't been revised for over a year, and all of the values match up to an older version I have. Castrol just brands things differently depending on the specific market. For example, they don't have the GTX line in Europe, it's called Magnatec or something. All of the big blenders do this.

For the Castrol vs Shell debate, just buy whichever is cheaper. BMW considers them functionally identical. If you sleep better at night using the Castrol because it "runs cooler" or whatever, then by all means, buy that.

[roastbeef]

its a fact, it runs cooler. not my imagination.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

its a fact, it runs cooler. not my imagination.

Not doubting you, mine seemed to indicate a slightly lower temp around town with the Shell stuff in there.

[chamba002]

Originally Posted by ///Mobbin

Zen and the art of M3 maintenance.

"Supercar" oil in and first post bearing swap sample off to Blackstone. New spark plugs up next and lower control arms after that.

Im doing my first Blackstone report too!

[CorruptCommie]

Just installed an Ecliptech Shift P2, since I don't have an E92 DCT that does it for free:

[Mantii]

Has anyone run the Motul 300v 15w50 on track days and what kind of temps are you seeing? Thinking about switching to this on my e46 as I'm seeing higher temps than a like even during regular street driving with the Castrol 10w60

[dogbone]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

Only time I notice interference is in turn 3 if I apex too early and turn 2 if I don't unwind the wheel enough before getting on the throttle. I'm sure it's doing stuff in just about every corner, but it's not cutting power, just doing some minor brake work.

When DSC is "cutting power", it can be quite subtle actually---and quite often there's no flashing light. It is NOTTTT just a simple on/off switch (although it is capable of abruptly turning the power off if it feels it is necessary). The vast majority of the time, it's not obvious in that way at all. You could floor the gas pedal at the apex of a turn, and it would mostly ignore you and smoothly bring the power back on after the corner when it deemed it safe to do so. The acceleration feels natural. Was the acceleration based on your input? Or was it the computer? It's hard to say just from feel. And I have a blower. If it wasn't smooth, it would be very obvious with a blower. The only way to know is to turn DSC off and go through whatever corner the same way again. You'll find out real quick! (If you try it, you should do it on a safe corner where you can spin if necessary. Be ready to countersteer!)

Several years ago, my friend used to watch my DSC-On videos and tell me---"you're late on the gas here", "and you're late on the gas here", "annnd you're late on the gas here". So, I would try to consciously get on the gas sooner and nothing would happen. He would watch my next videos and---"you're still late on the gas here", "and you're still late on the gas here", "annnd you're still late on the gas here". I can tell you sitting here now----it wasn't me. I was pressing the gas earlier.....it was DSC being very smooth and sneaky holding the power back.

So, one day I went out to Buttonwillow and turned DSC off to see what would happen at Bus Stop.....hehe.....RUDE SURPRISE! The rush of power as I got onto the gas was immediate!---unlike any other time with MDM on. Only by doing that could I get a sense of how DSC smoothly brings power back on.

Specifically for you, at Laguna Seca, MDM really drags it's feet letting you have the power on Turn 11. Man, you have to basically be all the way on the straight with the steering wheel almost fully straight before the car really begins accelerating. The fact that you didn't mention Turn 11 in your list of corners where you feel MDM makes me believe MDM is being super sneaky and you don't realize it. (And for the record, Turn 11 at Laguna would be a TERRIBLE place to experiment with this! Something much more open like at Buttonwillow or Chuckwalla would be much better. Something with lots of flat, open and wide desert in case you need it.)

[redpriest]

Originally Posted by dogbone

When DSC is "cutting power", it can be quite subtle actually---and quite often there's no flashing light. It is NOTTTT just a simple on/off switch (although it is capable of abruptly turning the power off if it feels it is necessary). The vast majority of the time, it's not obvious in that way at all. You could floor the gas pedal at the apex of a turn, and it would mostly ignore you and smoothly bring the power back on after the corner when it deemed it safe to do so. The acceleration feels natural. Was the acceleration based on your input? Or was it the computer? It's hard to say just from feel. And I have a blower. If it wasn't smooth, it would be very obvious with a blower. The only way to know is to turn DSC off and go through whatever corner the same way again. You'll find out real quick! (If you try it, you should do it on a safe corner where you can spin if necessary. Be ready to countersteer!)

Several years ago, my friend used to watch my DSC-On videos and tell me---"you're late on the gas here", "and you're late on the gas here", "annnd you're late on the gas here". So, I would try to consciously get on the gas sooner and nothing would happen. He would watch my next videos and---"you're still late on the gas here", "and you're still late on the gas here", "annnd you're still late on the gas here". I can tell you sitting here now----it wasn't me. I was pressing the gas earlier.....it was DSC being very smooth and sneaky holding the power back.

So, one day I went out to Buttonwillow and turned DSC off to see what would happen at Bus Stop.....hehe.....RUDE SURPRISE! The rush of power as I got onto the gas was immediate!---unlike any other time with MDM on. Only by doing that could I get a sense of how DSC smoothly brings power back on.

Specifically for you, at Laguna Seca, MDM really drags it's feet letting you have the power on Turn 11. Man, you have to basically be all the way on the straight with the steering wheel almost fully straight before the car really begins accelerating. The fact that you didn't mention Turn 11 in your list of corners where you feel MDM makes me believe MDM is being super sneaky and you don't realize it. (And for the record, Turn 11 at Laguna would be a TERRIBLE place to experiment with this! Something much more open like at Buttonwillow or Chuckwalla would be much better. Something with lots of flat, open and wide desert in case you need it.)

Yeah, Turn 11 was the final straw with MDM for me. I could count to 3 before it would let me have power again. Now, with DSC off, I can see why, I spend 1/3 of my laps countersteering through this turn, haha.

[dogbone]

Originally Posted by redpriest

Yeah, Turn 11 was the final straw with MDM for me. I could count to 3 before it would let me have power again. Now, with DSC off, I can see why, I spend 1/3 of my laps countersteering through this turn, haha.

hehe---sounds like someone needs a little more patience at Turn 11!! It's tough...you want to get back on the gas quick to complete a fast lap. This is it! Last turn!.....but that last turn is a doozy.....it's a "V" shape and walls everywhere. It's easy to get impatient. Tail comes out....lap ruined.....

[roastbeef]

Yea, I don't get on the gas until the wheel is almost straight... major MDM penalty if you aren't patient.

[admranger]

Originally Posted by redpriest

Lol. I used to think they were pretty decent, Laguna is just torture on brakes though. They will make even AP Racing BBK fade (DS1.11 pads) - lemanszcpm3 was having issues with fade.

I have to think the bleeder screw worked itself loose which is why I lost brake pressure. Might literally have to get them lockwired.

I agree Laguna is a nightmare on brake pads. However, I didn't have any problems with my PFC08's last August at Laguna (though we had cool temps). I wasn't exactly going slow as the only cars that passed me were full on race cars or just about race cars (gutted, more mods than stock parts, etc.). You've got data, right? Can you post the line graph of braking force?

Glad you're ok.

Pro tip: hit the auto up feature on the windows to keep the dust out of the car.

[redpriest]

Originally Posted by admranger

I agree Laguna is a nightmare on brake pads. However, I didn't have any problems with my PFC08's last August at Laguna (though we had cool temps). I wasn't exactly going slow as the only cars that passed me were full on race cars or just about race cars (gutted, more mods than stock parts, etc.). You've got data, right? Can you post the line graph of braking force?

Glad you're ok.

Pro tip: hit the auto up feature on the windows to keep the dust out of the car.

It could just be the ME20 pad heating up the rotor too much - dunno. The bleeder screw failed or worked itself loose which is why I lost all braking force at the last lap. It was like lap 8 or so of the session. Trying GLOC R12 front/R10 back next time on M4.