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      03-04-2017, 06:27 PM   #89
alvinguy
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Can't turn the crank fully to get all the bearings

Hello,

Other than releasing all the belts attached to the crank pulley and making sure the car is in neutral, is there anything else I need to be able to rotate the crank pulley?

I can't seem to turn the crank pulley to access all the bearings... I am only able to turn maybe 3/4 of the way. I was able to access except for cylinder 2 and 3. Help please, a bit stuck at this point.

Maybe I missed something? I even removed the spark plugs just to be sure... no luck.
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      03-04-2017, 06:36 PM   #90
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You're turning clockwise? Is your car dct or manual?
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      03-04-2017, 07:31 PM   #91
alvinguy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
You're turning clockwise? Is your car dct or manual?
Clockwise, dct. Even tried counter, same deal.
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      03-04-2017, 09:30 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alvinguy View Post
Clockwise, dct. Even tried counter, same deal.
Did you release the car into neutral as shown in the DIY? Pm me your email/phone
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      03-04-2017, 11:05 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alvinguy View Post
Hello,

Other than releasing all the belts attached to the crank pulley and making sure the car is in neutral, is there anything else I need to be able to rotate the crank pulley?

I can't seem to turn the crank pulley to access all the bearings... I am only able to turn maybe 3/4 of the way. I was able to access except for cylinder 2 and 3. Help please, a bit stuck at this point.

Maybe I missed something? I even removed the spark plugs just to be sure... no luck.
I second SYT Shadow's suggestion that the car is most likely no longer in neutral. Assuming it's a DCT, check the manual switch you moved with the screwdriver to put the vehicle in neutral in the first place. While working on my car, I've had mine slip out of place and back into the "Park" position without me noticing.
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      03-05-2017, 12:25 PM   #94
alvinguy
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Hi guys, car is in neutral. Plugged thr battery back in, put the white lever and dash says N. I even lifted the back of the car and spun the rear wheels by hand to check. Its in neutral, however, the crank is still not rotating fully.

I have no belts attached to the crank pulley at all. Rear wheels spin freely. What could i be missing?
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      03-05-2017, 11:42 PM   #95
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Take a very close look at all the rod caps you've installed. They are supposed to only go on one direction when reinstalled. I suspect it might be possible to accidentally reinstall one 180 degrees in the wrong direction, rotate the engine by hand, then while moving on to the next rod cap have it bind up on you. I understand this is highly unlikely, but it sounds like you've checked into all the more common possibilities.
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      03-09-2017, 06:42 PM   #96
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At the end of the 3/4 of a turn, does the engine stop abruptly, like if the crank hits something or do you start feeling progressive resistance? It should turn. If in doubt, remove the spark plugs.
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      03-09-2017, 06:52 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KawBoy View Post
At the end of the 3/4 of a turn, does the engine stop abruptly, like if the crank hits something or do you start feeling progressive resistance? It should turn. If in doubt, remove the spark plugs.
I spoke to him. It's an abrupt stop.
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      03-10-2017, 12:44 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
I spoke to him. It's an abrupt stop.
Found what was causing it?
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      03-10-2017, 12:45 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KawBoy View Post
Found what was causing it?
No. Story is more complicated than what we saw in the thread. OP has to post an update here.
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      03-10-2017, 01:01 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
No. Story is more complicated than what we saw in the thread. OP has to post an update here.
Sorry to hear that. Hopefully everything is going to end up well. I wish I could help somehow.
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      03-11-2017, 03:06 PM   #101
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Rob bolt removal - what size socket?

Hey guys - ready to remove the rod bolts and was going to use the 12mm 12 point socket but it feels like it's slipping. I tried it another bolt and it feels the same. The socket fits good but not perfect. I looked up different types of bolt heads and found one called a double hex. Am I using the wrong socket and should I get one if these double hex sockets?

http://www.kctools.com.au/Product%20...C262_NEW_L.jpg

Last edited by Duckengine; 03-11-2017 at 03:19 PM..
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      03-11-2017, 03:33 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duckengine View Post
Hey guys - ready to remove the rod bolts and was going to use the 12mm 12 point socket but it feels like it's slipping. I tried it another bolt and it feels the same. The socket fits good but not perfect. I looked up different types of bolt heads and found one called a double hex. Am I using the wrong socket and should I get one if these double hex sockets?

http://www.kctools.com.au/Product%20...C262_NEW_L.jpg
I experienced the exact same issue, my 12mm 12 point socket did not fit tight on the OEM bolts. I almost stripped one while removing them as well, but I was able to remove all of them in the end. All of the DIY's I've ever seen for the S65 rod bearings list the 12mm 12 point socket. I chalked up my experience to a low quality socket, but after looking up the double hex just now I wonder if you aren't on to something there. Just be careful and you should be fine, many other people have completed the job with the socket you have.
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      03-11-2017, 04:48 PM   #103
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Curious to hear what happened.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
No. Story is more complicated than what we saw in the thread. OP has to post an update here.
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      03-11-2017, 05:33 PM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bvrider1 View Post
Curious to hear what happened.
If the OP allows me to explain I will, but as of now it's still not working. Hopefully he'll come back.

The good thing is that there isn't anything wrong with the DIY
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      03-11-2017, 05:34 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Theodore View Post
I experienced the exact same issue, my 12mm 12 point socket did not fit tight on the OEM bolts. I almost stripped one while removing them as well, but I was able to remove all of them in the end. All of the DIY's I've ever seen for the S65 rod bearings list the 12mm 12 point socket. I chalked up my experience to a low quality socket, but after looking up the double hex just now I wonder if you aren't on to something there. Just be careful and you should be fine, many other people have completed the job with the socket you have.
I'm with you guys. It doesn't seem to fit too well. Maybe the right socket is different, I can't say. I know I was able to remove all the bolts with the 12mm so I didn't think about it
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      03-11-2017, 05:38 PM   #106
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I will be giving my S65 everything that i got in the terms of service and solid planted right foot, and if the bearings decides to go, i will cry that day, i do not take out sorrows beforehand.
The engine is solid, live a little and have a good time
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      03-11-2017, 06:05 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
I'm with you guys. It doesn't seem to fit too well. Maybe the right socket is different, I can't say. I know I was able to remove all the bolts with the 12mm so I didn't think about it
I bought the tool. Only 2 I could find were from Australia and the U.K. They also refer to it as a "bi-hex".

Hope it's the right one - I'm too chicken to try the 12 mm.
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      03-11-2017, 06:41 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duckengine View Post
I bought the tool. Only 2 I could find were from Australia and the U.K. They also refer to it as a "bi-hex".

Hope it's the right one - I'm too chicken to try the 12 mm.
Let us know how it works out. If it's better we can change the recommendation in the DIY
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      03-11-2017, 09:04 PM   #109
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Garage List
2004 BMW M3  [4.50]
2011 BMW E90 M3  [5.00]
2013 BMW 328i  [5.00]
Getting started on my rod bearing job.

Dang...the panels are a pain. So many fasteners...so many sizes. Thank god for my small battery powered impact!

I'm going to drop the subframe. The E9X is way easier than the E46...you need to remove 2 18mm bolts for the 2 control arms and a 21mm for the tie rod ends. Its pretty easy.

I'm also going to just remove the entire steering rack. So you'll need to remove a 21mm and 19mm banjo bolt. Make sure you get new crush washers. I'm removing the rack because the tie rod ends are frozen on the inner tie rod so I can't make toe adjustments. I need to fix that. Also would like to get the system full of brand new CHF-11S.

Just taking a break right now...
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      03-11-2017, 09:09 PM   #110
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I did it once dropping the SF and once not. It's quicker to not drop, but if you are a DIYer enjoying a project, a little extra time does not matter.
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