Rod Bearing Installation Q&A Thread

[SYT_Shadow]

Thanks JonM, I will do that. I'm also just curious

The question remains how much clearance on the plastigauge should be considered 'good'.

[///Mobbin]

Originally Posted by JonM

I think that's why BMW specifies use the old bolts to check the clearance in the second step. You definitely don't want to reuse your new ARPs to measure the clearance.

I had considered that but with at least some of the bolt/bearing combinations the clearance may differ between OEM bolts and ARP bolts so not sure the measurement would be completely accurate.

That said, let's keep this thread bearing-brand-free to the extent possible!

[JonM]

Originally Posted by ///Mobbin

I had considered that but with at least some of the bolt/bearing combinations the clearance may differ between OEM bolts and ARP bolts so not sure the measurement would be completely accurate.

That said, let's keep this thread bearing-brand-free to the extent possible!

I wondered about that. If you are using ARP bolts, you could order a few extras and check the clearance on maybe 2 of the 8 rods, etc. But, I wouldn't re-use those bolts either.

[bigjae1976]

The ARP bolts are reusable. At least should be. If they are one use and done...what's the point?

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

The ARP bolts are reusable. At least should be. If they are one use and done...what's the point?

I agree. Half of the point is they are reusable, not 'yield to torque'. As the bolts happily take the torque of 50lbft or whatever, they can be used indefinitely

[JonM]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

I agree. Half of the point is they are reusable, not 'yield to torque'. As the bolts happily take the torque of 50lbft or whatever, they can be used indefinitely

I am sure they will take the 50 ft lbs all day long, but you would need to measure them before blindly reusing them. If they stretch more than 0.001 you would need to replace them, according to ARP.

[JonM]

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

The ARP bolts are reusable. At least should be. If they are one use and done...what's the point?

I thought the point of ARP bolts is they are already work-hardened, unlike the OEM bolts. You have to retorque the OEM ones 3 times to cold work them; ARP is one-and-done.

[admranger]

I'll tell you what, that first time torquing the ARP bolts to 50 ft-lbs was nerve wracking. Those are a lot smaller bolts than you'd think! However, they are super high quality parts so I wouldn't worry about reusing them assuming your torque wrench is calibrated (thank you Snap on for doing that when you fixed the electronics in it for $65!).

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by JonM

I thought the point of ARP bolts is they are already work-hardened, unlike the OEM bolts. You have to retorque the OEM ones 3 times to cold work them; ARP is one-and-done.

And that's the other half of the point of getting ARP bolts.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by admranger

I'll tell you what, that first time torquing the ARP bolts to 50 ft-lbs was nerve wracking. Those are a lot smaller bolts than you'd think! However, they are super high quality parts so I wouldn't worry about reusing them assuming your torque wrench is calibrated (thank you Snap on for doing that when you fixed the electronics in it for $65!).

I looove my snap on electronic torque wrench!

[///Mobbin]

I've just jacked up my car and am about to start this job. Only draining the oil today. Any safety concerns with this setup? Still have time to adjust.

[SYT_Shadow]

Good luck Mobbin! Give me a call if you run into a snag!

That setup looks good

[///Mobbin]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

Good luck Mobbin! Give me a call if you run into a snag!

That setup looks good

Thanks, appreciate it and thanks again for the amazing DIY!

[Millie]

Good luck! I'll be watching this.

Wouldn't it be easier to just pull the engine and have it on a stand where everything is easily accessible?

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by Millie

Good luck! I'll be watching this.

Wouldn't it be easier to just pull the engine and have it on a stand where everything is easily accessible?

There really is no need. You can do it through the bottom perfectly fine.

Pulling an engine will be a lot more time and, most importantly, a lot more risk

[admranger]

Your interior jack stands are under the front subframe. That's gonna get in your way when you drop the front subframe.

[///Mobbin]

Originally Posted by admranger

Your interior jack stands are under the front subframe. That's gonna get in your way when you drop the front subframe.

Thanks, those are actually just backups as an extra precaution, I'll move them somewhere else when I get to that point. Good to know.

[///Mobbin]

Okay. I would definitely consider these tools mandatory, tons of panel screws. My first time using an automatic ratchet, simply amazing. The headlamp has been great also.

[///Mobbin]

Photo:

[///Mobbin]

Felt panel and undertray screws are mostly 8mm and 10mm, wasn't sure what to do with this one at first, just a 10mm nut (transmission panel). Need extensions for many.

[///Mobbin]

Greasy DCT pan, just like SYT_Shadows. Leaking?

[///Mobbin]

16mm bolts holding metal undertray are in there tight, big guns needed: