Rod Bearing Installation Q&A Thread

[pbonsalb]

If you pulled the spark plugs to eliminate compression, the engine would be easier to turn. You might be able to just grab the primary accessory belt and pull to turn. Seems like this is a Dinan pulley only issue if Dinan does away with the giant hex nut cover. Certainly a potential pain in the rear or added expense for those affected.

[///Mobbin]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

If you pulled the spark plugs to eliminate compression, the engine would be easier to turn. You might be able to just grab the primary accessory belt and pull to turn. Seems like this is a Dinan pulley only issue if Dinan does away with the giant hex nut cover. Certainly a potential pain in the rear or added expense for those affected.

I finally found a good use for a selfie stick, just wanted to confirm the cover wasn't installed and the bolts were as I imagined. They do seem slightly recessed from the pulley but I do think I will give this specialty tool a try. If it doesn't work I may have to do what you described.

[bigjae1976]

That is a problem...

[SYT_Shadow]

I hadn't questioned how to rotate the engine during the install. If I remember correctly for the S54, I was able to use a 32 or 36mm socket to rotate the crank from the front of the car

Mobbin, that pic of the crank of the S65 right?

I'm doing this on Dec 10 if I can get time at the shop. I bought the parts in the opening page so I should be good. This promises to be a lot of fun

EDIT: my ex girlfriend's brother (who owns the shop) has changed his mind and will not be loaning a lift for a day. Damn. This is really bad

[///Mobbin]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

I hadn't questioned how to rotate the engine during the install. If I remember correctly for the S54, I was able to use a 32 or 36mm socket to rotate the crank from the front of the car

Mobbin, that pic of the crank of the S65 right?

I'm doing this on Dec 10 if I can get time at the shop. I bought the parts in the opening page so I should be good. This promises to be a lot of fun

EDIT: my ex girlfriend's brother (who owns the shop) has changed his mind and will not be loaning a lift for a day. Damn. This is really bad

Sorry to hear that. I am just having a go at it in my garage, no lift. I do have jackpoint jackstands and riser pads that increase the lift though, should be enough space.

Regarding the S54 crank, in OEM form it actually has the same hex nut cover as the S65. Then yes, that is a picture of my S65 crank but with a Dinan pulley and no hex nut cover, the OEM pulley would have the cover that allows you to rotate the engine. I went ahead and ordered the S54 "crankshaft socket" I mentioned earlier as I believe it will also work on the S65.

I plan to start prepping on Dec. 10th, jack up the car, drain oil, airbox and fan out, etc. Then handle most of the work on Dec. 11th. Happy to exchange notes as I go.

[doogee]

Originally Posted by ///Mobbin

Sorry to hear that. I am just having a go at it in my garage, no lift. I do have jackpoint jackstands and riser pads that increase the lift though, should be enough space.

Regarding the S54 crank, in OEM form it actually has the same hex nut cover as the S65. Then yes, that is a picture of my S65 crank but with a Dinan pulley and no hex nut cover, the OEM pulley would have the cover that allows you to rotate the engine. I went ahead and ordered the S54 "crankshaft socket" I mentioned earlier as I believe it will also work on the S65.

I plan to start prepping on Dec. 10th, jack up the car, drain oil, airbox and fan out, etc. Then handle most of the work on Dec. 11th. Happy to exchange notes as I go.

Don't forget to reapply blue loctite to all of the bolts that mount the oil pump pickups.

Also thoroughly check the pickups. There is a big one with a shield at the front of the motor. I found a plastic safety ring from an oil bottle in there

[pbonsalb]

It may be Dinan cannot use the giant hex nut cover because the inside of its pulley is too small. If that is the reason, it is possible the special tool wont fit either. See if you can find someone with one to measure the diameter.

Happy I have a Rogue crank pulley that allows the hex nut cover. It's sort of a tight area to work in, so both getting in there and also attaching that tool will add time to the job. Normally you don't even have to pull the fan to do rod bearings. Of course, pulling plugs to eliminate compression is a time consuming job as well.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by ///Mobbin

Sorry to hear that. I am just having a go at it in my garage, no lift. I do have jackpoint jackstands and riser pads that increase the lift though, should be enough space.

Regarding the S54 crank, in OEM form it actually has the same hex nut cover as the S65. Then yes, that is a picture of my S65 crank but with a Dinan pulley and no hex nut cover, the OEM pulley would have the cover that allows you to rotate the engine. I went ahead and ordered the S54 "crankshaft socket" I mentioned earlier as I believe it will also work on the S65.

I plan to start prepping on Dec. 10th, jack up the car, drain oil, airbox and fan out, etc. Then handle most of the work on Dec. 11th. Happy to exchange notes as I go.

I don't even have a garage. Oh the good old days when I had a lift at my brother's old place in NH! That was the life!

Unless I find someone who will lend me their garage+lift I'm screwed


Update: found this place http://gearheadsystemsinternational.com/diy/

[///Mobbin]

Originally Posted by doogee

Don't forget to reapply blue loctite to all of the bolts that mount the oil pump pickups.

Also thoroughly check the pickups. There is a big one with a shield at the front of the motor. I found a plastic safety ring from an oil bottle in there

Good advice, do you happen to know which blue loctite formula is recommended?

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

It may be Dinan cannot use the giant hex nut cover because the inside of its pulley is too small. If that is the reason, it is possible the special tool wont fit either. See if you can find someone with one to measure the diameter.

Happy I have a Rogue crank pulley that allows the hex nut cover. It's sort of a tight area to work in, so both getting in there and also attaching that tool will add time to the job. Normally you don't even have to pull the fan to do rod bearings. Of course, pulling plugs to eliminate compression is a time consuming job as well.

Good points. I need to remember to try and turn the crank before I drop the subframe. If I can't get it to turn using the methods discussed I can always install an OEM pulley and hex nut cover, though hopefully it doesn't come to that.

[doogee]

Originally Posted by ///Mobbin

Good advice, do you happen to know which blue loctite formula is recommended?

Loctite Blue 242 is fine!

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by ///Mobbin

Good advice, do you happen to know which blue loctite formula is recommended?

Good points. I need to remember to try and turn the crank before I drop the subframe. If I can't get it to turn using the methods discussed I can always install an OEM pulley and hex nut cover, though hopefully it doesn't come to that.

Ok...I do remember taking that cover off. I can lend you the OE pulley and cover.

[///Mobbin]

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

Ok...I do remember taking that cover off. I can lend you the OE pulley and cover.

Really appreciate the offer and would love to have these on hand just in case! PM coming your way.

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by ///Mobbin

Really appreciate the offer and would love to have these on hand just in case! PM coming your way.

I'm out of town this week. I can get it in the mail Fri. Too bad this isn't Monday because I'm on my way to Austin today.

[///Mobbin]

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

I'm out of town this week. I can get it in the mail Fri. Too bad this isn't Monday because I'm on my way to Austin today.

So close and Friday should work, PM sent, thanks again!

[///Mobbin]

Originally Posted by ek9hatch00

Only thing that took me a while to find was the steering column bolt (see below).

Originally Posted by JonM

For the steering bolt, was the part number 32306778609?

Visual Guide LINK to steering column bolt referenced

Any best practices on making sure the steering column lines back up precisely the way it came out?

[pbonsalb]

Use the lines on the parts. I suppose you could still end up a spline off.

[admranger]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

Use the lines on the parts. I suppose you could still end up a spline off.

Yes. Yes you can.

My sharpie was too fat. Be precise here. Maybe mark 2 spots 90 degrees out.

Also Mobbin, you don't need to take the airbox or fan out. Leave them alone.

[SYT_Shadow]

Can we talk about Plastigauge?

From past discussions I recall we're supposed to use the green plastigauge.

What should the result look like to know we're in the safe zone?

[pbonsalb]

I did not bother. Its an extra step and what would you do if the result was not what you wanted. Next to none of the shops changing bearings appear to use plastigauge. I think I have seen 1 plastigauge measurement posted. Some question it's accuracy.

[JonM]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

Can we talk about Plastigauge?

From past discussions I recall we're supposed to use the green plastigauge.

What should the result look like to know we're in the safe zone?

Here is what TIS says for S65 rod bearings and Plastiguage. I am planning on doing it, mostly just for fun. When I look at the free/online TIS, it doesn't show the clearance under Technical Data section. I will pay the $29 for a 24-hour TIS before I do mine and look.

[///Mobbin]

I went with the ARP bolts but not sure I want to fully torque them, remove them, and then reinstall and re-torque them. Not stretch bolts I know but I am still hesitant.

[JonM]

Originally Posted by ///Mobbin

I went with the ARP bolts but not sure I want to fully torque them, remove them, and then reinstall and re-torque them. Not stretch bolts I know but I am still hesitant.

I think that's why BMW specifies use the old bolts to check the clearance in the second step. You definitely don't want to reuse your new ARPs to measure the clearance.