Track forum general chit chat.

[///Mobbin]

Originally Posted by NoCarrier

For those of you who swap your pads out when you go to the track - do you bed your track pads each time?

With PFC's you can often get by w/o bedding even when swapping between street/track pads. When pads/rotors are new though I generally like to bed them regardless. For most other track pads I've tried (Pagid for example) I would bed them every time I put them in.

[NoCarrier]

Originally Posted by ///Mobbin

With PFC's you can often get by w/o bedding even when swapping between street/track pads. When pads/rotors are new though I generally like to bed them regardless. For most other track pads I've tried (Pagid for example) I would bed them every time I put them in.

Gotcha. I'm trying out PFC08's. Is that to say they don't need to be bedded at all, or that I should bed them once now and in the future it may not be necessary?

[///Mobbin]

Originally Posted by NoCarrier

Gotcha. I'm trying out PFC08's. Is that to say they don't need to be bedded at all, or that I should bed them once now and in the future it may not be necessary?

I bed them once and then don't worry about it the next time. Have swapped back and forth between PFC08's and Stoptech Street Performance Pads as well as PFC Z-rated w/o issue. I only mention that b/c if your street pad is a ceramic or similar compound you might need to bed each time to scrape off the remaining street compound on your rotors before heading to the track. Driving around on the PFC08's for a week or so would likely do this anyway.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by NoCarrier

For those of you who swap your pads out when you go to the track - do you bed your track pads each time?

I find it a bit frustrating to bed brakes on the street. It never seems to really get done.
First session of a track day is to get focused, shake the jitters, and bed the brakes.

[///Mobbin]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

I find it a bit frustrating to bed brakes on the street. It never seems to really get done.
First session of a track day is to get focused, shake the jitters, and bed the brakes.

I generally agree and do the same (with PFCs), I would just caution that with some pads they need to be bedded and then cooled (hwy driving with minimal brake application) to behave optimally on track.

[beats]

congrats on the baby 86! If it's your first, the first few weeks will be a blur... good luck!

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by NoCarrier

Gotcha. I'm trying out PFC08's. Is that to say they don't need to be bedded at all, or that I should bed them once now and in the future it may not be necessary?

I feel like the first session automatically beds your brakes so no for me.

[redpriest]

Originally Posted by NoCarrier

For those of you who swap your pads out when you go to the track - do you bed your track pads each time?

I run Ferodo DS2500 for the street and DS1.11 on the track. The benefit of running this set up, is that the compounds are compatible, so no bedding is required, as long as you've bedded it once.

I.e., when I swapped iron discs, I bedded them with my DS2500s. I went to the track, swapped out for DS1.11, and immediately ran hot laps after the tires were warm. When I was done for the day, let the discs cool, then swapped back to DS2500. Drove home with 0 issues.

[NoCarrier]

Originally Posted by redpriest

I run Ferodo DS2500 for the street and DS1.11 on the track. The benefit of running this set up, is that the compounds are compatible, so no bedding is required, as long as you've bedded it once.

I.e., when I swapped iron discs, I bedded them with my DS2500s. I went to the track, swapped out for DS1.11, and immediately ran hot laps after the tires were warm. When I was done for the day, let the discs cool, then swapped back to DS2500. Drove home with 0 issues.

This is a good approach. I'm going to try going back and forth between PFC08s and Z-Rated pads. We'll see how that works out.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by redpriest

I run Ferodo DS2500 for the street and DS1.11 on the track. The benefit of running this set up, is that the compounds are compatible, so no bedding is required, as long as you've bedded it once.

I.e., when I swapped iron discs, I bedded them with my DS2500s. I went to the track, swapped out for DS1.11, and immediately ran hot laps after the tires were warm. When I was done for the day, let the discs cool, then swapped back to DS2500. Drove home with 0 issues.

Well that explains why it has been easy for me. I'm running a similar setup, but using dsuno pads.

Where can I read more about this? I don't remember it being in the Essex blog.

[redpriest]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

Well that explains why it has been easy for me. I'm running a similar setup, but using dsuno pads.

Where can I read more about this? I don't remember it being in the Essex blog.

In an email conversation I had with Jeff Ritter

Here it is below:

Hi Alex,
Yes, I would definitely recommend swapping between the DS2500 street, and DS1.11 or DSUNO (Ferodo's newest compound) for track. Just about any serious race pad like that is going to work your discs over pretty well when cold. There's really no way around it. It's a bit of pain to swap pads, but our kits make it much easier than the stock setup. It will take you longer to lift the car and remove the wheel than it will to change pads on our setup.

The 2500, DS1.11, and DSUNO are all built on the same core materials. As such, you can swap between all of those pads without worrying about cross-contamination. That's one of the great things about using those combos.

As for DS1.11 vs. DSUNO...it just depends on what you like. The DS1.11 has a flatter torque curve, and slightly lower mu. They tend to last a little longer. The DSUNO is higher mu with a rising torque curve. What's your current favorite race pad? Is it the PFC08, or do you like something else better? That might help me recommend one over the other. Thanks.

[roastbeef]

What is MU? Seems like it has something to do with bite. Can't find the acronym anywhere.

[redpriest]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

What is MU? Seems like it has something to do with bite. Can't find the acronym anywhere.

Greek letter Mu - coefficient of friction

[///Mobbin]

Originally Posted by admranger

Always want to loosen the fill plug before the drain plug, like you show in your pic. Nice work!

I have that on my list of things to do. I'm under the car doing the rod bearings...struggling getting the oil pan out right now <facepalm>.

Maybe I'll do the diff and trans fluids to stink up the garage a bit more while I think about how to get the oil pan out. Subframe is dropped and the front oil pickup is out, but I can't get the pan over the subframe...

admranger I'm planning to swap my oil pan, bearings, and engine mounts soon, any tips?

I also bought new oil pan screws, an oil pan gasket, o-ring for the sensor, anything else I should grab?

Oh and did you apply any sealant to the gasket? (Some folks do.)

[roastbeef]

If I was going through all that, I'd put in a dipstick. The kit is only like $125.

[Candide13]

Originally Posted by M3 Number 86

Not yet lols. But he was in a cool suit for three days (scary!!)

Congratulations!!

I know what this feels like; I also kept a photo from our son in neonatal intensive care. I wondered, did he dream of electric sheep?

Congrats again, take it easy!

[///Mobbin]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

If I was going through all that, I'd put in a dipstick. The kit is only like $125.

Good point, I keep going back and forth on this. Worried it may be another point to potentially develop a leak and I'm now in tune with how to use the awful electronic gauge so leaning away from it right now. Of course, when my e-gauge brakes you'll hear me complaining that I didn't do it!

[flipmeraz]

There's this option for $350 since you're already removing the oil pan
http://www.bimmerworld.com/S65-Oil-D...d-Oil-Pan.html

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by Candide13

Congratulations!!

I know what this feels like; I also kept a photo from our son in neonatal intensive care. I wondered, did he dream of electric sheep?

Congrats again, take it easy!

Thanks!

He's been home and being a normal baby. Although sometimes I freak out on some of his movements but it's usually because he took a shit

Doctors said he's even better than a normal kid bc of all the tests he did and passed 100% on all of them.

The babies in nicu is a pretty scary sight. Was talking to a guy I kept running into. His baby had a air bubble in his lung and when it popped his heart sifted to the other side! He's ok now. Also saw some way premies who were less than 1kg and another getting surgery. Scary but hoping they all come out good!

[admranger]

Originally Posted by ///Mobbin

admranger I'm planning to swap my oil pan, bearings, and engine mounts soon, any tips?

I also bought new oil pan screws, an oil pan gasket, o-ring for the sensor, anything else I should grab?

Oh and did you apply any sealant to the gasket? (Some folks do.)

Dry gasket install.

I got the o-rings for the rear oil pickup and the gasket for the front oil pickup.

I used a dental pick to get the upper bearing shell out of the rod.

I used assembly lube on the bearings. Some just use oil.

If you don't mind, please post the PNs for the three different oil pan bolts. I get to do this job 2x more helping some friends and I'd like to have a few of each on hand "just in case".

As for tips/tricks?

-- Please take an oil sample when you drain your oil. Mine showed no issues, but the wear was certainly there. I asked Blackstone to look into lowering their thresholds given my oil sample and what the rod bearings looked like. They said they'd look into it...

-- Drain your oil the night before you tackle the project. Less drippage. However, the oil pan will have a good amount of oil still in it and the pump will spew oil as you turn the crank to get access to the rods...have rags at the ready.

-- Be very, very precise with the marking on your steering coupler. I managed to reassemble mine a tooth off and had to adjust tie rods to compensate (easy, but annoying). The steering coupler bolt has to come all the way out for things to come apart.

-- Undo the sway bar links as well as the steering coupler. Then you can pull the subframe out of the way as you take the oil pan out.

-- Read some of the previous threads on this and then go slowly and methodically.

-- I used ziplock freezer bags to bag parts as I took them off. You can write on the bags to remind you where the parts go.

-- Make sure the parking brake is off and the transmission is in neutral. Makes turning the engine a whole lot easier.

-- Use the backing cardboard from the new gasket as a template and put the bolts into the cardboard as you take them out. Makes it easier to reinstall.

[///Mobbin]

Originally Posted by admranger

If you don't mind, please post the PNs for the three different oil pan bolts. I get to do this job 2x more helping some friends and I'd like to have a few of each on hand "just in case".

As for tips/tricks?

-- Please take an oil sample when you drain your oil. Mine showed no issues, but the wear was certainly there. I asked Blackstone to look into lowering their thresholds given my oil sample and what the rod bearings looked like. They said they'd look into it...

Much appreciated, thank you! The oil pan bolt part #'s that I ordered are as follows (might want to double check me here):
07129905537 - 16 x oil pan screws
07129905599 - 12 x oil pan screws
07129905600 - 2 x oil pan screws
12611744292 - oil level sensor o-ring
11137841085 - e92 m3 oil pan gasket

Helpful graphic, LINK.

Then the oil pickup tube/system part numbers that I ordered (just in case):
11417839832 - pickup tube o-ring
11417839833 - pickup tube o-ring
11417838534 - suction pipe gasket

As found here: LINK, I did not order gasket 11427838016 as I wasn't sure I would get to that one. Let me know if you think otherwise or come up with anything else though.

Then I have 3 great blackstone reports already so we'll see if the reports match up.

[admranger]

You don't need #17 in your link above unless you take the pump out (unnecessary).

I didn't replace the oil level sensor since I only have 35k miles on the car.

Thanks for posting the PNs. Appreciate it.

I did replace the gasket and the two o-rings for the pickup tubes.