uh oh, engine died?

[Eh858]

Was driving quite spirited with a another car, then all of a sudden my car literally just turns off, pops its self into neutral and dies. I eventually get the car to start after a jump, she moves about 5 feet and then turns off again. No CEL or anything. I have her at a shop right now, the battery life was completely toast, swapped it over and yet nothing.

It makes a sound like shes trying to turn over and turn on but doesnt, just a 1 time "zut" sound no consistent sound of trying to turn over. Im fearing the worst that the engine has been blown at 24k miles.... on my 2012 m3, pray for me friends as this is outside of warranty.

[Doc Oc]

Best of luck to you, let us know what they find out.

[Eh858]

Trying to be positive, but I know its going cost some serious money.... Does anyone know how much it usually cost? if the engine is done for?

[elim11]

Originally Posted by Eh858

Trying to be positive, but I know its going cost some serious money.... Does anyone know how much it usually cost? if the engine is done for?

It ranges depending on what type of engine you get (new vs used) and if you are doing the labor yourself. But budget yourself at least $15k to be safe. Sorry buddy. I know its a scary and uneasy feeling.

[///M Power-Belgium]

Originally Posted by Eh858

Was driving quite spirited with a another car, then all of a sudden my car literally just turns off, pops its self into neutral and dies. I eventually get the car to start after a jump, she moves about 5 feet and then turns off again. No CEL or anything. I have her at a shop right now, the battery life was completely toast, swapped it over and yet nothing.

It makes a sound like shes trying to turn over and turn on but doesnt, just a 1 time "zut" sound no consistent sound of trying to turn over. Im fearing the worst that the engine has been blown at 24k miles.... on my 2012 m3, pray for me friends as this is outside of warranty.

Did you heard any abnormal engine noises before your situation ?

[Amirsm3]

I think you'd have a more obvious sound if the engine was toast. That sounds like an electrical problem to me.

[Eh858]

Originally Posted by ///M Power-Belgium

Did you heard any abnormal engine noises before your situation ?

nope, I was driving quite spirited, im running cat delete and straight pipe but didnt hear naything out of the ordinary.

[Eh858]

Originally Posted by Amirsm3

I think you'd have a more obvious sound if the engine was toast. That sounds like an electrical problem to me.

im hoping, when the battery was tested it was completely done for... it tries to crank the engine pretty hard when I hit the starter it just sounds like one thud trying to turn but it doesnt turn over. im not sure what other things it could be? we are going get it in the air and try to manually crank the engine over with a wrench to see what happens

[///M Power-Belgium]

Originally Posted by Eh858

nope, I was driving quite spirited, im running cat delete and straight pipe but didnt hear naything out of the ordinary.

Please let us know what actually happend with your S65...
Wish you the best of luck !

[Eh858]

Originally Posted by ///M Power-Belgium

Please let us know what actually happend with your S65...
Wish you the best of luck !

Of course, hopefully is something else.... ive been trying to research what happens when you try to start a car with rod bearing failure

[pbonsalb]

If its bad enough, engine is locked and wont rotate. From what you describe, seems like a possibility.

[BanjoPaterson]

Originally Posted by Eh858

Im fearing the worst that the engine has been blown at 24k miles.... on my 2012 m3, pray for me friends as this is outside of warranty.

My prayers are with you. I've just had a $2400 AUD bill for a radiator and auxillary fan replacement on my X5 (70% of the bill was OEM parts cost). I feel for those whose engines may have gone to the great BMW Motorsport Division in the sky.

I'd never wish a broken BMW component on anyone.

[Eh858]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

If its bad enough, engine is locked and wont rotate. From what you describe, seems like a possibility.

ding ding, we have a winner.... we took off the fan and the intake and tried to manually crank the engine would barely move, not start up. All the belts seemed to spin but engine wont crank.... time to contact my after market warranty and pray that they dont give me hell.... thats what plan I have

A. DIAMOND PREMIER covers the following listed components under section IV part A.
1. Gasoline/Diesel Engine: Cylinder block, cylinder head(s) if damage by internally lubricated parts. The following internally lubricated parts including: pistons, piston rings and pins, crankshaft and main bearings, connecting rods and rod bearings, camshaft and bearings, pushrods, rocker arms, cylinder head valves, valve lifters, cam followers, oil pump, timing chain, and gear. Harmonic balancer, valve covers, timing cover, and oil pan (if damaged caused by failure of internally lubricated covered parts); seals and gaskets during rebuilding, cylinder head gaskets, vacuum pump, and engine mounts.
2. Transmission: Transmission case, transfer case, and transmission pan (if damaged by failure of covered internally lubricated parts). The following internally lubricated parts including: banner kit components (transmission clutches, steels, locking rings), torque converter, vacuum modulator, seals and gaskets during rebuilding, front pump shaft seal, rear transmission seal, and transmission mounts.
3. Electrical: Alternator, voltage regulator, starter motor, starter solenoid, ignition distributor, A/C heater blower motor.
4. Cooling: Radiator, radiator cooling fan motor, fan clutch, water pump, and water pump gasket.
5. Drive Axle: Front CV axle shafts, front axle shaft universal joints, front propeller/drive shaft universal joints, rear propeller/drive shaft universal joints, rear propeller/drive shaft support and bearing.
6. Brakes: Master cylinder, power brake booster, hydraulic front disc brake calipers, hydraulic rear disc brake calipers, and wheel cylinders.
7. Super/Turbo Charger: All internal parts; Housing is covered if damaged by the failure of an internally lubricated moving part, seals and gaskets during replacement.
8. 4x4/AWD: These components in the Transfer Case including: Drive chain, drive chain gears, planetary gears, ring shift forks, bearing, oil pump output shaft, main shaft washers and other internal lubricated parts, 4 Wheel Drive actuator, seals and gaskets during rebuilding, transfer case input shaft seal, transfer case output shaft seal.
9. Steering System: Steering box, steering box pitman seals, rack and pinion unit and all their internal lubricated parts, steering rack shaft seals, power steering pump, pump shaft seal, pitman arm, idler arm, inner tie rod ends, and outer tie rod ends.
10. Fuel System: Fuel pump, fuel injector(s), and gasoline pressure regulator.
11. Differential Assembly: (Front and Rear) Differential Housing (if damaged caused by failure of internally lubricated covered parts), axle shaft, ring and pinion, bearings, bushings, washers, all other internal parts contained with the differential assembly, pinion seal, and axle shaft seal.
12. Heater and Air Conditioning: Evaporator core, condenser, compressor, compressor clutch, field coil, accumulator, A/C high/low pressure compressor cutoff switches and heater core.
13. Front Suspension: Upper and lower control arms, control arm bushings, lower torsion/tension arms, stabilizer end links, ball joints, hub and wheel bearings.
14. Rear Suspension: Upper and lower control arms, control arm bushings, stabilizer end links, ball joints, hub and wheel bearings.
15. ABS-Brakes: Wheel speed sensors, hydraulic pump/motor assembly, pressure modulator valve/isolation dump valve, accumulator, ABS master cylinder, Hydro Boost and Electronic Control Processor.
16. Hi-Tech: Electronic shift control unit; ABS master cylinder, ABS processor, hydraulic pump motor, pressure modulator valve, sensors; temperature control programmer, fuel management controls; mass airflow sensor, map sensor, air charge temperature sensor, coolant temperature sensor, fuel pressure sensor, fuel injector(s), fuel injection pump, ignition management controls; camshaft position sensor, crankshaft position sensor, ignition coils, wiper motor(s), power window motors, power door lock actuators, driver and passenger front forward/backward seat motor, driver and passenger front tilt seat base motor, driver and passenger front tilt seat back motor, automatic temperature control panel, key-less entry module excluding remote, factory installed GPS Navigation module, speed control module, electronic level control compressor, sunroof/convertible top motor.

[MFL]

Before you do!!!!
Remove ALL aftermarket components and ensure that you've had the car for a few months/thousands of miles before claiming. They will often find any way to get out of paying out of pocket and will find a way to decline payment and force you to sue them to overturn their stance.

I'm not saying that your company will do this, but the probability always goes up as the repair bill goes up. Replacing an S65 isn't a cheap undertaking.

[Eh858]

Originally Posted by MFL

Before you do!!!!
Remove ALL aftermarket components and ensure that you've had the car for a few months/thousands of miles before claiming. They will often find any way to get out of paying out of pocket and will find a way to decline payment and force you to sue them to overturn their stance.

I'm not saying that your company will do this, but the probability always goes up as the repair bill goes up. Replacing an S65 isn't a cheap undertaking.

yeah, stock everything and ive had it for 2.5k miles since the warranty

we called bmw to see what s65s they have, new ones run 28kish and there are 0 in US or germany, they have 12 remanned ones in the US that were rebuilt in germany

[Sephiroth]

how does the engine suddenly seize like that? what is the root cause of failure?

[Eh858]

Originally Posted by Sephiroth

how does the engine suddenly seize like that? what is the root cause of failure?

Most likely the rod bearings just got stuck at the bottom, this was about after 30 mins of driving so it can happen randomly

[BanjoPaterson]

Originally Posted by Eh858

Most likely the rod bearings just got stuck at the bottom, this was about after 30 mins of driving so it can happen randomly

Very odd. When or if you have a more in-depth diagnosis I'd be most interested to hear. Still sorry to hear what happened.

[Eh858]

Originally Posted by BanjoPaterson

Very odd. When or if you have a more in-depth diagnosis I'd be most interested to hear. Still sorry to hear what happened.

Of course, once the tear down starts ill try to get pictures and post up or get some more concrete reasoning of the engine failure

[deansbimmer]

I suspect main bearing failure.

[Amirsm3]

Wtf engine seized? Good luck, bro. Hopefully your warranty will foot the bill.

[squartus]

This is exactly what happened to mine when #1 main bearing failed. No warning, just stalled out doing about 40mph. Had to roll it into a gas station, after letting sit for a hr I finally managed to get it cranked but it was toast.