EDC error

[bmwfst1]

I got an EDC error today on my dash. Could it be theasier EDC module of one of the EDC motors on the shocks? I have a 2010 bmw m3 with 74xxx miles.

[4130]

You should scan codes. I just got this a week ago and MyCarly said "rear valve axle" or something like that. I pulled back the trunk liner and reseated both connectors on the shock towers. It's been several days of driving and the code has not returned after clearing it. If you can't scan, just reseat all of the connectors in the front and rear and it may go away on it's own. If not, it could be the EDC module.

[Rajmun340]

Originally Posted by bmwfst1

I got an EDC error today on my dash. Could it be theasier EDC module of one of the EDC motors on the shocks? I have a 2010 bmw m3 with 74xxx miles.

there are no EDC motors, there are a solenoid valves built into the strut and current driven.

[bmwfst1]

ok thanks

[4130]

Did you resolve this? My error has since come back.

[bmwfst1]

no not yet i think im just going to leave it alone and get some coilovers without edc.

[Helmsman]

4130, bmwfst1, assume your dampers went dead stiff with the EDC error on?

[4130]

Yes, dead stiff for mine. I swapped my EDC module with a used one from Ebay and that didn't help.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by 4130

Yes, dead stiff for mine. I swapped my EDC module with a used one from Ebay and that didn't help.

Another one, sorry to hear. Been trying to diagnose my EDC issue for some time now, dealer have given up claiming "all ok". Swapped for an used module without result, could of course be faulty. Measured drive current for the front dampers to be ok at the different settings. Dampers stuck somewhere between Normal and Sport. Very small diff between Comfort/Sport, far from how it used to work. There seem to be quite a few out there with similar issue. Extremely frustrating with BMW diagnostic not covering this while no support are provided to the dealers in order to track the shit down. I.e no fault codes are showing for me.
Do you have an error with your new module?

[4130]

I got the same error "005fe7 fault code: valve fault rear axle" as my module, but I think the used one from Ebay had some additional CAN bus errors. At this point I've swapped back to my original module.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by 4130

I got the same error "005fe7 fault code: valve fault rear axle" as my module, but I think the used one from Ebay had some additional CAN bus errors. At this point I've swapped back to my original module.

A code is something. Thought about investigating the rear dampers?

Also, after you reseated the connectors, before the error came, was it working i.e. not in stiff mode?

[4130]

Replacing the rear dampers is probably my next move. Yes, it seems you don't even get a code and at least I do.

The problem started with the error. The first time I reseated the rear damper connectors the system went back to normal operation for a couple of months. Now nothing I do gets it to work and I get the error and full-stiff shortly after driving off.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by 4130

Replacing the rear dampers is probably my next move. Yes, it seems you don't even get a code and at least I do.

The problem started with the error. The first time I reseated the rear damper connectors the system went back to normal operation for a couple of months. Now nothing I do gets it to work and I get the error and full-stiff shortly after driving off.

If you pull one of the strut connectors, does it get even firmer? (you'll pull all current/close valves completely, while Sport still add some current). Mine gets even stiffer when pulling the plug, which indicate that the dampers/valves isn't stuck.
If you get the (same) error with both boxes, Im inclined to say it may indicate that one of your dampers are fried in some way.
Sorry for all questions, just trying to collect data/understanding.

Ps. If you havent done it already you could quite easily measure the output current from the box by connecting an amp meter to the strut top, with wires coming through your windows, car's need a few mph to start the EDC module/drive current. Fyi should a damper be fried the error will set the box either halfstiff/halfcurrent or very firm/no current, fwiw.

[Rainer M]

I don't think a used edc module from eBay is a good way of excluding the original edc from the possibility of being defective.
How much is a new edc module from the dealer?
Or, if you know some one in the area maybe you can swap.
I would do this rather then replacing the struts for trouble shooting.

[4130]

$420 from ECS. I know a used module from Ebay doesn't rule it out, but it was a $100 gamble. At this point, I'll be taking it to my shop soon.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by 4130

$420 from ECS. I know a used module from Ebay doesn't rule it out, but it was a $100 gamble. At this point, I'll be taking it to my shop soon.

That will be really interesting, please keep us posted. We're a couple who have tried that while they refuse to take action as they can't id the module to be the fault. Again, pls keep us in the loop.

[bmwfst1]

I dont think im going to spend time and money to correct this> i want to put coilovers so there is no point to try to fix the edc. It defaults to sport mode i dont mind the harder ride.

[Rainer M]

Yeah. 420 dollar just to rule it out if it is the module is a no go.
Is there no one else in your area that could help you out.
Could it be that it needs to be coded after replacement?

[4130]

Possibly, but it didn't seem that way based on what others were saying on this forum. I have a good indy shop that I'll take it to. I just haven't had the time yet.

[4130]

Update, although not necessarily helpful to you: It was questionable if one or more of my shocks had a fault. I had only noticed a code for the rear, but my shop said it pulled one for the front on one of their scans. The possibility of replacing all shocks was the catalyst for me to abandon OEM and replace with Bilstein B6 EDC dampers. I opted to pair them with Swift Spec-R springs. Special thanks to reviews by ashtaron14 and lufty that really helped my decision. I've only just driven back from the shop, but I think I made the right call with this setup and everything is working fine with my original EDC module.

[bmwfst1]

i will do something similar soon.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by 4130

Update, although not necessarily helpful to you: It was questionable if one or more of my shocks had a fault. I had only noticed a code for the rear, but my shop said it pulled one for the front on one of their scans. The possibility of replacing all shocks was the catalyst for me to abandon OEM and replace with Bilstein B6 EDC dampers. I opted to pair them with Swift Spec-R springs. Special thanks to reviews by ashtaron14 and lufty that really helped my decision. I've only just driven back from the shop, but I think I made the right call with this setup and everything is working fine with my original EDC module.

Thanks for the update. Do you assume more than one of the dampers was faulty? Still trying to analyse what is wrong with mine so appreciate all input. Thought I was rolling out that the dampers and even more than one could go wrong. Any chance for you or the shop to do a check on your replaced OEM dampers? And finally, do you have the original difference between setting back?

Cheers