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      05-11-2015, 02:08 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vsix View Post
What the hell I'm talking aout, yeah right...stop giving him wrong impression's, that's not right and you know that.
He will let it roll and then try to push the start button...great job thekurgan!
The intent isn't to start the car, but to determine if the engine is seized, it only has to turn a bit.
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      05-11-2015, 02:09 PM   #24
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Rod bearings can go out without warning. A friend of mine's engine gave out while he was idling in a parking lot. The engine rpm just dropped, the car died and wouldn't restart anymore. No big noises or drama, it just wouldn't start. Had it towed to the dealer and the engine was seized.

But your issue could be anything... no need to panic yet. I'd definitely get the codes read and take it to a good BMW mechanic.
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      05-11-2015, 02:10 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vain_os View Post
it is cranking, i thought it was clear in the video sorry.

it is cranking but wont turn on.
OK, yea very unlikely rod bearings. See if you can get a scan for faults on the car... The DME may have a code or a shadow code that will steer you in the right direction. I would start there.
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      05-11-2015, 02:11 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thekurgan View Post
The intent isn't to start the car, but to determine if the engine is seized, it only has to turn a bit.
Understand that's your intension but not his because you didn't told him to keep his hand's from the start button while doing so. That's what I ment.
We need to directly brief him, not just give one suggesrion and leave him room for self interpretation's wich could be in this case catastrophic.
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      05-11-2015, 02:12 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vsix View Post
Understand that's your intension but not his because you didn't told him to keep his hand's from the start button while doing so. That's what I ment.
We need to directly brief him, not just give one suggesrion and leave him room for self interpretation's wich could be in this case catastrophic.
Well, unless he's Mr. Fantastic, he won't be able to both push the vehicle AND reach in and hit the start button.

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      05-11-2015, 02:13 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhatsADSM View Post
OK, yea very unlikely rod bearings. See if you can get a scan for faults on the car... The DME may have a code or a shadow code that will steer you in the right direction. I would start there.
See brother, first rule stay cool
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      05-11-2015, 02:13 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///M Power-Belgium View Post
Engine is not turning on .
No engine noise , so it's not possible to say if there is something wrong or not with your engine .
But I saw when you pushed the start button , cluster went on without fault code .
Strange situation , think this case is for BMW !
Stop pushing the start button , because your battery will die and soon...
But I saw 2 other cases when S65's just died while driving went in neutral and locked up ...
Sadly these 2 cases was really bad news , and hope it's not the same for you .
Please keep us posted about your strange problem .
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Listen to him, he knows his stuff!
Thank you for the appreciation !
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      05-11-2015, 02:14 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhatsADSM View Post
BTW a bad crank sensor would in fact typically result in a car that will crank but not start. Some cars can run (hardly) without a crank sensor signal assuming the ecu figures out the crank sensor is bad. It must use the cam sensor with extremely low resolution.. But I digress.

Really it could be any number of things. I only mention crank sensor because you said it had a code for that before
i couldnt resist and tried it...here is a better video.

https://vid.me/qGN8

still wont start

ill let you guys know what codes i find
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      05-11-2015, 02:15 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thekurgan View Post
Well, unless he's Mr. Fantastic, he won't be able to both push the vehicle AND reach in and hit the start button.

Oh yeah, noone's there to push...yeah right..common dude, really?
Listen stop smart assin me, and freaking concentrate on this man's engine trouble, that's what I'm gonna do instead of derailing this important thread.
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      05-11-2015, 02:17 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by ///M Power-Belgium View Post
Thank you for the appreciation !
Sir I'm all about helping people and also the truth and justice!
You know your stuff and your definately welcome!
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      05-11-2015, 02:21 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vsix View Post
Oh yeah, noone's there to push...yeah right..common dude, really?
Listen stop smart assin me, and freaking concentrate on this man's engine trouble, that's what I'm gonna do instead of derailing this important thread.
I gave him some advice. The vehicle is DCT, so it won't help his determination.
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      05-11-2015, 02:22 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vain_os View Post
i couldnt resist and tried it...here is a better video.

https://vid.me/qGN8

still wont start

ill let you guys know what codes i find
Exactly the same thing as in video # 1 .
Best thing in this situation is to read codes first .
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      05-11-2015, 02:55 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vain_os View Post
i got a fault code about 2 weeks ago after i went into limp mode, something about crank sensor. but it went away so..

im out of warranty so cant go to bmw. i always thought rod bearing had to show huge knock in engine. anyway..going to get codes read soon
If the crank sensor went bad, that would explain why your engine won't start. The crank and cam sensors are used to tell the ECU where to locate TDC. If the ECU can't find TDC, then it won't start the engine.

These are hall effect sensors. If you know how a hall sensor works, then it will all make sense.

The crank sensor should be in the transmission housing. Remove the undercarriage shield plate, and you should find it in the bell housing. Start by looking for loose or frayed wires. Good luck.
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      05-11-2015, 03:51 PM   #36
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Silly question: Do you have gas in? I see your needle is all the way down and your light came on right away to tell you that you need to fill up.
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      05-11-2015, 04:15 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caslca View Post
Silly question: Do you have gas in? I see your needle is all the way down and your light came on right away to tell you that you need to fill up.
Yes it showed about 24 miles on the warning. I often get to low gas..i dont know if thats bad or not. Currently waiting on my mobile guy to come and read the codes..heart is pumping.

And the crank sensor fault went away last time we reset it and never came back. Do these codes have tendencies to dissappear?
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      05-11-2015, 04:44 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vain_os View Post
Yes it showed about 24 miles on the warning. I often get to low gas..i dont know if thats bad or not.
A separate subject, but running low on gas is not recommended - I had a load of fault codes due to running low on gas.
RGs post on the crank sensor seems like a good place to start.
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      05-11-2015, 06:34 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SenorFunkyPants View Post
A separate subject, but running low on gas is not recommended - I had a load of fault codes due to running low on gas.
RGs post on the crank sensor seems like a good place to start.

+1 Gas cools the fuel pump too.
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      05-11-2015, 07:04 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vain_os
Quote:
Originally Posted by caslca View Post
Silly question: Do you have gas in? I see your needle is all the way down and your light came on right away to tell you that you need to fill up.
Yes it showed about 24 miles on the warning. I often get to low gas..i dont know if thats bad or not. Currently waiting on my mobile guy to come and read the codes..heart is pumping.

And the crank sensor fault went away last time we reset it and never came back. Do these codes have tendencies to dissappear?
Put some gas in it ....
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      05-11-2015, 07:12 PM   #41
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Guys I think 24 miles is more than enough to start the car..?

Anyway, I read the codes, this is all that was shown on the display..



All 8 fuel injectors 'activation' no idea what this means
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      05-11-2015, 07:28 PM   #42
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Not a good idea to keep running your car down to gas fumes everytime before you fill up.
Not to mention not cooling the fuel pump.. sometimes the MPG left can be misleading, I actually just had to run a fellow M3 owner to the gas station because he did this very same thing, was dead in the middle of the street. Got some gas and cranked right up even though said had 20 miles left.
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      05-11-2015, 07:47 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by regular guy View Post
If the crank sensor went bad, that would explain why your engine won't start. The crank and cam sensors are used to tell the ECU where to locate TDC. If the ECU can't find TDC, then it won't start the engine.

These are hall effect sensors. If you know how a hall sensor works, then it will all make sense.

The crank sensor should be in the transmission housing. Remove the undercarriage shield plate, and you should find it in the bell housing. Start by looking for loose or frayed wires. Good luck.
This makes sence. Have had this happen before on other vehicles. A code read will tell for sure. No wait! Is got to be the rod bearings. What are you guys smokin?
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      05-11-2015, 07:49 PM   #44
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Ok so a new development, i opened the intake manifold up and sprayed some brake cleaner in the cylinders while cranking the car and it turned over and started. running more tests...

Last edited by vain_os; 05-12-2015 at 02:55 AM..
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