? about Tunes, and raised rpm redline

[Killerfish2012]

I'm looking at getting a tune, and have narrowed my choice down to two brands. One can increase redline, the other doesn't due to reliability concerns. I have two basic questions.

1. How bad is raising rpm redline to 8,600rpms, specifically considering the bearings?

2. What is the 1/4 mile acceleration difference if any between the same tune, on a DCT car with an redline of 8,600rpms vs 8,300rpms?

I have neglected mentioning any specific tunes by name, so please refrain from this in your responses.

Thanks

[1MOREMOD]

Raising rpm will have marginal if any effect on quarter mile time. The car doesn't keep making extra power at that point but flattens out. I had mine raised and was nice to have the few extra but routinely shifter closer to 8K on the track most of the time.

[EJT86]

I went with a tune that tops at 8300. Mostly for engine safety plus I don't need an extra few miles added to my top speed THAT badly. If you notice your tach says the engines top speed is 8250 redline is perfectly between 8000 and 8500 so going to 8300 is still a slight raise

[Sales@Alekshop]

We have been running raised redline on our cars for years on the track with no issues. Raised RPM is simply a personal preference. Unless you want the extended RPM range there is no need to have it as the car does not make additional power over 8K but for aggressive drivers and track users who spend a lot of time near redline it can be a nice option to have.

[Hujan]

I raised the redline to 8,600 RPM mostly because I wanted some extra room for shifts so that I didn't bounce off the rev limiter. With the factory redline, I would tend to shift around 8k. Now, I tend to shift around 8.4k.

[MikeeM3]

on mostly all tune's the rev limited will be raised but doesnt mean you need to rev higher then stock !!! As others said your car wont be making more power after 8k

[regular guy]

Very little difference with FBO DCT.

[EJT86]

Originally Posted by regular guy

Very little difference with FBO DCT.

Is that real world data or a projection?

[regular guy]

Originally Posted by EJT86

Is that real world data or a projection?

CarTest is a physics based car simulator that you can input as much real world data as available (dyno charts, weather conditions, slope, wind, etc.). In this case, it's based on all real world data, but at the heart is still a simulation based on the real world data.

[EJT86]

I was asking because I've been searching for a similar result on a mod I may do like the results you posted. I don't want to hijack the thread. If I PM you would you mind telling me the result?

[regular guy]

Originally Posted by EJT86

I was asking because I've been searching for a similar result on a mod I may do like the results you posted. I don't want to hijack the thread. If I PM you would you mind telling me the result?

PM sent.

[Ezio]

i would rock the 8600RPM redline. There is no way BMW is going to max out the engine from factory. the engine should be able to handle 8500RPM no problem.

[Killerfish2012]

Guys thank you so much for all your great answers. It's made my decision much easier. One last quick thing though. The general consensus seems to be that the car with mods and tune doesn't make more power after the factory redline, thereby nullifying the effect of raising rpm redline. Is it just me or does the car seem to make more HP above the factory redline, than stock in the dynos of this thread:

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=896939

[Killerfish2012]

Originally Posted by regular guy

Very little difference with FBO DCT.

Sick comparo! Thanks

[W///]

Originally Posted by Hujan

I raised the redline to 8,600 RPM mostly because I wanted some extra room for shifts so that I didn't bounce off the rev limiter. With the factory redline, I would tend to shift around 8k. Now, I tend to shift around 8.4k.

+1, but I still shift around 8k though.

[kawasaki00]

Originally Posted by Killerfish2012

Guys thank you so much for all your great answers. It's made my decision much easier. One last quick thing though. The general consensus seems to be that the car with mods and tune doesn't make more power after the factory redline, thereby nullifying the effect of raising rpm redline. Is it just me or does the car seem to make more HP above the factory redline, than stock in the dynos of this thread:

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=896939

One thing else to remember is when in D mode it always shifts at the stock redline. It will only shift at the higher redline when in S mode. So your normal driving on the freeway or whatever and you go WOT it still shifts at stock so no harm done. I have the higher redline just because or shift points. The car will still be faster with the higher redline (not much) but it is. The shifting band is higher so when it does shift you are about 300 higher on the bottom end also.

[Killerfish2012]

Originally Posted by kawasaki00

One thing else to remember is when in D mode it always shifts at the stock redline. It will only shift at the higher redline when in S mode. So your normal driving on the freeway or whatever and you go WOT it still shifts at stock so no harm done. I have the higher redline just because or shift points. The car will still be faster with the higher redline (not much) but it is. The shifting band is higher so when it does shift you are about 300 higher on the bottom end also.

Interesting. I'm only looking for improvement in acceleration without compromising the already burdened bearings. I will be in S mode, at the track.

[gatorfast]

I think the only real reason to keep the factory redline would be if you were still under warranty and wanted to hide any "over revs" that may be recorded. But it seems like most people chose the raised rpm and are happy with it.

[///M Power-Belgium]

Originally Posted by Killerfish2012

Interesting. I'm only looking for improvement in acceleration without compromising the already burdened bearings. I will be in S mode, at the track.

A tune is more than only raised rpm redline...
Saw you have DCT trans , so just go with the DCT/Software upgrade , personal I feel it makes the car faster too !
Faster shifts make our cars faster , no doubt... I really can feel the difference when shifting above 4K in S mode .
Of course the engine respons will be improved with a engine tune and even more in MDM .
I'm sure that the DCT/Software upgrade has more advantage to make our cars faster than raised redline .
I've also the reduced rpm limiter to 4K rpm when cold , and think it's really good to avoid our bearing troubles .
Need to say I really love my tune .

[BPMSport]

Most of our customers run the higher redline - some opt for 8,500, and others 8,600. The car holds peak power up there, so it's nice to have the ability to go there if you need to. It does make the car slightly quicker, and after the shift you're a little higher up in the band. In higher gears it will make a larger difference because more time is spent in that part of the RPM range. It can also come in handy at the track where you need just a little bit more on time before braking for a turn.

As Kawasaki said, in order to fully utilize the higher redline, you need to be using the paddles or DCT stalk. In automatic mode the car will still shift at the factory redline.

I had the raised RPM limit for years and didn't have any issues, although since the supercharger I've backed it down to the stock limit. It's definitely nice to have, and just because it's there, doesn't mean you always have to use it. I've seen S65's go upwards of 9K that are still running today. I do think that extended use up there could potentially exacerbate any pre-existing conditions (think bearings).

[Killerfish2012]

Originally Posted by regular guy

Very little difference with FBO DCT.

Is it just me or does the data actually show a little difference in the 1/4, but a much bigger difference when looking at 60-130mph acceleration, when starting out in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear. At the track, the .3-.4 second difference in acceleration would be significant, no?

Either way, I've chosen a tune, and will be flashing next week. I know I said I won't mention any tunes specifically, but let me just say that it was a very "Darwinian" choice,

[FormulaMMM]

My understanding of the rev limiter is that it is imperfect/inconsistent. So with an 8400 rpm limit it could rev to 8500 or 8600 in certain circumstances (not money shift). With an 8600 limit does this mean it could rev to 8700 or higher if you bury it then?

Killerfish, I'd personally like the extra 200 rpm for track use. Especially with dct. Doubt it will make it much quicker, but the little bit of added flexibility would be nice. I don't like the idea of revving much beyond 8600 though...