Whos running Mobil 1 0w-40?

[Dannys M3]

Absolutely, if the bearings were not original there would be no reason to post.

[V1.47fan]

Originally Posted by aussiem3

Probably M1 bought him time. Looks like the damage was done long before.

I think people are a lot wiser thanks to the forum and warming up the car before pushing it.

Ignorance is bliss.

Objection, your honor. That is speculation.

[aussiem3]

Originally Posted by V1.47fan

Objection, your honor. That is speculation.

[Richbot]

Here's some chum for the water. Anybody had Blackstone run virgin M1 0w40 recently to see what's in it? If not I might have it run next time I send them a sample. I've found a couple VOA's online but they're at least 4 years old and don't make sense based on how much additive is showing up in this sample:

[Killerfish2012]

Originally Posted by Richbot

Here's some chum for the water. Anybody had Blackstone run virgin M1 0w40 recently to see what's in it? If not I might have it run next time I send them a sample. I've found a couple VOA's online but they're at least 4 years old and don't make sense based on how much additive is showing up in this sample:

Great result, thanks for sharing. Did you do any track events with the M1 in?

[e92zero]

Reporting back after about almost 20k miles on 0-40. Change interval used on the 0-40 is 5k. Never tracked the car. From my blackstone report in the last oil change, the SUS visconsity 210F is at 63.2 and the cSt visconsity 100C is at 11.12. Both are out of range on the BS report for the engine. I have also noticed that my engine sounds a bit rough and louder at the end of my 2hrs commute (all freeway). I have this 2 hrs commute 2x a week. My oil pressure has also dropped to around 30 psi at idle. So I'll probably be switching back to the 10-60 after I change out the rod bearings. If I don't have this long commute each week and only driving the car in town, I would most definitely be staying with the 0-40. I'll do one more oil change over Thanskgiving to confirm the drop in viscosity. I will post pic of the bearings once I get around to changing them either during Christmas.

[JEllis]

Originally Posted by e92zero

Reporting back after about almost 20k miles on 0-40. Change interval used on the 0-40 is 5k. Never tracked the car. From my blackstone report in the last oil change, the SUS visconsity 210F is at 63.2 and the cSt visconsity 100C is at 11.12. Both are out of range on the BS report for the engine. I have also noticed that my engine sounds a bit rough and louder at the end of my 2hrs commute (all freeway). I have this 2 hrs commute 2x a week. My oil pressure has also dropped to around 30 psi at idle. So I'll probably be switching back to the 10-60 after I change out the rod bearings. If I don't have this long commute each week and only driving the car in town, I would most definitely be staying with the 0-40. I'll do one more oil change over Thanskgiving to confirm the drop in viscosity. I will post pic of the bearings once I get around to changing them either during Christmas.

The ranges listed on the BS report should be for the oil not the engine. That means your 0W-40 has sheared more than normal. Did BS say anything about the oil being out of range?

[e92zero]

Originally Posted by JEllis

The ranges listed on the BS report should be for the oil not the engine. That means your 0W-40 has sheared more than normal. Did BS say anything about the oil being out of range?

Nope, they just said the viscosity is low. Everything else look the same as before:

Flashpoint: 400
fuel%: <0.5
Antifreeze%: 0.0
Water %: 0.0
Insolubles%: TR

I am suspecting it's that long commute of mine every week that did the number on the oil for the 0-40. I also don't drive at high rpm, just around 70-80 mph in 6th gear cruising. I average over 22 mpg on this commute so I take it very easy on the engine. It's 130 miles one way so it's continuously running ~3k rpm for 2hrs though.

[JEllis]

Originally Posted by e92zero

Nope, they just said the viscosity is low. Everything else look the same as before:

Flashpoint: 400
fuel%: <0.5
Antifreeze%: 0.0
Water %: 0.0
Insolubles%: TR

I am suspecting it's that long commute of mine every week that did the number on the oil for the 0-40. I also don't drive at high rpm, just around 70-80 mph in 6th gear cruising. I average over 22 mpg on this commute so I take it very easy on the engine. It's 130 miles one way so it's continuously running ~3k rpm for 2hrs though.

Strange. Especially since you have had normal reports in the past.

[e92zero]

^agree that it's strange. My BS report has always been on the good side through out the 80k miles on the car. I have been noticing my engine running hotter than before and also the drop of the oil pressure recently. I am at 84k now. I will be switching to the WPC bearing in the coming month. Not sure I can wait for the new 'right' bearing from Clevite mentioned in the other thread. Perhaps next time. I figure I will stick to the TWS 10-60 with the WPC bearings for the next 85k miles and report back. But then BMW is going to be switching to Shell as the official oil so not sure if I want to use TWS or the Shell helix 10-60.

[BrewRifle]

So the verdict is still out on whether or not M1 0W40 is the right oil for our cars?

Any recommendations for a supercharged car in a warm climate where the lowest it gets is 35 degrees Fahrenheit?

[W///]

Originally Posted by e92zero

^agree that it's strange. My BS report has always been on the good side through out the 80k miles on the car. I have been noticing my engine running hotter than before and also the drop of the oil pressure recently. I am at 84k now. I will be switching to the WPC bearing in the coming month. Not sure I can wait for the new 'right' bearing from Clevite mentioned in the other thread. Perhaps next time. I figure I will stick to the TWS 10-60 with the WPC bearings for the next 85k miles and report back. But then BMW is going to be switching to Shell as the official oil so not sure if I want to use TWS or the Shell helix 10-60.

It's running hotter? That's very weird. When I switched to M1, my car has always run cooler (it rarely goes over 210 on commutes). For the most part, it stays at around 200F. Having said that, it warms up to 200F quicker than 10W60 ever did for me, especially now during cold weather which is about 40F in the morning.

Mileage is at 82k for me. No weird noises or anything like that either. Very strange.

[JEllis]

Originally Posted by BrewRifle

So the verdict is still out on whether or not M1 0W40 is the right oil for our cars?

Any recommendations for a supercharged car in a warm climate where the lowest it gets is 35 degrees Fahrenheit?

I run my SC'd M3 in Yuma AZ which is one of the hottest places in the US. Lowest temps in the winter are around 70 deg. I run 0W-40 all year round and on the track as well. No issues and clean BS reports so far.

[e92zero]

Originally Posted by W///

It's running hotter? That's very weird. When I switched to M1, my car has always run cooler (it rarely goes over 210 on commutes). For the most part, it stays at around 200F. Having said that, it warms up to 200F quicker than 10W60 ever did for me, especially now during cold weather which is about 40F in the morning.

Mileage is at 82k for me. No weird noises or anything like that either. Very strange.

I should clarify this a bit. I put 0-40 in for almost 20k now. When I first put it in, it ran cooler for sure and it warms up faster. Gas mileage improved and engine rev easier just as everyone else said. You can find my post on it. I love the 0-40 and would have continue to use it if not for the viscosity dropping too much. Like I said above, it's most likely my long weekly commute that's shearing the 0-40 too much.

It's the last 5-7k miles that I noticed my engine started running hotter. My engine never ran over the 210 unless it's like over 95 degree out side and I am driving around town for extended period even when it was running on 10-60. However, it's been going over the 210 mark even on the freeway when it's 84 degree outside as soon as there is a hill. Notice that it's the same commute and route for me for all of the 84k miles I own this car so I know pretty much exactly when/where the engine temp has been. Note that I also replaced/flushed the coolant at 60k miles when I added in the water temp gauge so it's not the coolant. That along with me noticing my oil pressure dropping is why I am suspecting my bearing is going and I'll be replacing them over Christmas. Idle oil pressure with 10-60 has been dead steady at 42-44psi. When I first switch over to 0-40, it is right around 40psi and would drop down to a hair below 40psi (maybe 39psi) around 5k right around when I change the oil. The oil pressure has been around 36-38 psi with fresh 0-40 and after about 1-2k miles on the oil, it drop down to 30-32 psi. Cruising oil pressure at 70 mph with 10-60 was right around 72psi. When I first switch over to 0-40, same cruising oil pressure was around 70-71 psi. Right now, the cruising oil pressure with 0-40 has been around 67-68 psi. Hence, I noticed the drop. Would be interesting to see what my bearings look like given my BS report has always been flawless.

[Richbot]

Your radiator and cooler are probably getting quite a few bent fins and bugs/debris caught in them at this mileage, which on cumulative effect can really reduce their efficiency. Good idea to take a fin straightener to any radiator every 50k or so, I'm lazy but need to do this as I've noticed a lot of bugs and bent fins behind the lower grille opening in both the oil cooler and radiator. Unfortunately you really need to pull the bumper cover to do a good job. Not saying that's an issue, but it could be one reason for the change you've noticed

[JEllis]

Originally Posted by e92zero

I should clarify this a bit. I put 0-40 in for almost 20k now. When I first put it in, it ran cooler for sure and it warms up faster. Gas mileage improved and engine rev easier just as everyone else said. You can find my post on it. I love the 0-40 and would have continue to use it if not for the viscosity dropping too much. Like I said above, it's most likely my long weekly commute that's shearing the 0-40 too much.

It's the last 5-7k miles that I noticed my engine started running hotter. My engine never ran over the 210 unless it's like over 95 degree out side and I am driving around town for extended period even when it was running on 10-60. However, it's been going over the 210 mark even on the freeway when it's 84 degree outside as soon as there is a hill. Notice that it's the same commute and route for me for all of the 84k miles I own this car so I know pretty much exactly when/where the engine temp has been. Note that I also replaced/flushed the coolant at 60k miles when I added in the water temp gauge so it's not the coolant. That along with me noticing my oil pressure dropping is why I am suspecting my bearing is going and I'll be replacing them over Christmas. Idle oil pressure with 10-60 has been dead steady at 42-44psi. When I first switch over to 0-40, it is right around 40psi and would drop down to a hair below 40psi (maybe 39psi) around 5k right around when I change the oil. The oil pressure has been around 36-38 psi with fresh 0-40 and after about 1-2k miles on the oil, it drop down to 30-32 psi. Cruising oil pressure at 70 mph with 10-60 was right around 72psi. When I first switch over to 0-40, same cruising oil pressure was around 70-71 psi. Right now, the cruising oil pressure with 0-40 has been around 67-68 psi. Hence, I noticed the drop. Would be interesting to see what my bearings look like given my BS report has always been flawless.

I would also check the coolant level.

[W///]

Originally Posted by e92zero

I should clarify this a bit. I put 0-40 in for almost 20k now. When I first put it in, it ran cooler for sure and it warms up faster. Gas mileage improved and engine rev easier just as everyone else said. You can find my post on it. I love the 0-40 and would have continue to use it if not for the viscosity dropping too much. Like I said above, it's most likely my long weekly commute that's shearing the 0-40 too much.

It's the last 5-7k miles that I noticed my engine started running hotter. My engine never ran over the 210 unless it's like over 95 degree out side and I am driving around town for extended period even when it was running on 10-60. However, it's been going over the 210 mark even on the freeway when it's 84 degree outside as soon as there is a hill. Notice that it's the same commute and route for me for all of the 84k miles I own this car so I know pretty much exactly when/where the engine temp has been. Note that I also replaced/flushed the coolant at 60k miles when I added in the water temp gauge so it's not the coolant. That along with me noticing my oil pressure dropping is why I am suspecting my bearing is going and I'll be replacing them over Christmas. Idle oil pressure with 10-60 has been dead steady at 42-44psi. When I first switch over to 0-40, it is right around 40psi and would drop down to a hair below 40psi (maybe 39psi) around 5k right around when I change the oil. The oil pressure has been around 36-38 psi with fresh 0-40 and after about 1-2k miles on the oil, it drop down to 30-32 psi. Cruising oil pressure at 70 mph with 10-60 was right around 72psi. When I first switch over to 0-40, same cruising oil pressure was around 70-71 psi. Right now, the cruising oil pressure with 0-40 has been around 67-68 psi. Hence, I noticed the drop. Would be interesting to see what my bearings look like given my BS report has always been flawless.

That's actually a pretty good ideal to put an oil pressure gauge in the car. Thanks for being thorough, it's good data to have.

I think it'd be a good idea if you logged your coolant temp and definitely check your coolant level just in case. Just plug it in your OBD2 and see what it says. If you are seeing something like 220F on the hwy, then as others said, the radiator might be blocked.

The crazy thing is, for me when I was running 10W60, the oil would get past 210F even though I was going 70MPH+. With M1, it is more like 200F most of the time, unless it's humid and 100F+ outside.

Let us know what you find!

[Richbot]

Originally Posted by Killerfish2012

Great result, thanks for sharing. Did you do any track events with the M1 in?

No track, one autocross right at the end of the interval, the car got 8 runs in and it was all mid or high-rpm stuff as we have a big lot to work with (changed the oil following weekend). Oil temps never went above about 220. What really wears my oil is probably the street driving I do, because hoon while you still can.

[kawasaki00]

Originally Posted by e92zero

I should clarify this a bit. I put 0-40 in for almost 20k now. When I first put it in, it ran cooler for sure and it warms up faster. Gas mileage improved and engine rev easier just as everyone else said. You can find my post on it. I love the 0-40 and would have continue to use it if not for the viscosity dropping too much. Like I said above, it's most likely my long weekly commute that's shearing the 0-40 too much.

It's the last 5-7k miles that I noticed my engine started running hotter. My engine never ran over the 210 unless it's like over 95 degree out side and I am driving around town for extended period even when it was running on 10-60. However, it's been going over the 210 mark even on the freeway when it's 84 degree outside as soon as there is a hill. Notice that it's the same commute and route for me for all of the 84k miles I own this car so I know pretty much exactly when/where the engine temp has been. Note that I also replaced/flushed the coolant at 60k miles when I added in the water temp gauge so it's not the coolant. That along with me noticing my oil pressure dropping is why I am suspecting my bearing is going and I'll be replacing them over Christmas. Idle oil pressure with 10-60 has been dead steady at 42-44psi. When I first switch over to 0-40, it is right around 40psi and would drop down to a hair below 40psi (maybe 39psi) around 5k right around when I change the oil. The oil pressure has been around 36-38 psi with fresh 0-40 and after about 1-2k miles on the oil, it drop down to 30-32 psi. Cruising oil pressure at 70 mph with 10-60 was right around 72psi. When I first switch over to 0-40, same cruising oil pressure was around 70-71 psi. Right now, the cruising oil pressure with 0-40 has been around 67-68 psi. Hence, I noticed the drop. Would be interesting to see what my bearings look like given my BS report has always been flawless.

It could be a bunch of things but try a different gauge if you can. Depending on the gauge you would be surprised how far off some of these so called "high end" gauges will drift over time, they all drift to the low side too. Just like a o2 sensor always fails lean.

[e92zero]

Originally Posted by kawasaki00

It could be a bunch of things but try a different gauge if you can. Depending on the gauge you would be surprised how far off some of these so called "high end" gauges will drift over time, they all drift to the low side too. Just like a o2 sensor always fails lean.

I thought of that but it doesn't explain the low viscosity and that my engine running hotter even when the weather started cooling down the last few months though. Now that the weather really cooled down, I still see my engine hitting 210 which never happened before. I also don't like how my engine sounds after long drives now, engine sounds rough. Not sure how to really describe this roughness.

I like working on my car anyway and I will be doing the rod bearing change myself. It will be ~88k by Christmas when I get to it. I figure it will be good insurance to see and check where my bearings are. I'll just think of it as a timing belt change I have done on other cars before. No biggie.

[e92zero]

Originally Posted by W///

That's actually a pretty good ideal to put an oil pressure gauge in the car. Thanks for being thorough, it's good data to have.

I think it'd be a good idea if you logged your coolant temp and definitely check your coolant level just in case. Just plug it in your OBD2 and see what it says. If you are seeing something like 220F on the hwy, then as others said, the radiator might be blocked.

The crazy thing is, for me when I was running 10W60, the oil would get past 210F even though I was going 70MPH+. With M1, it is more like 200F most of the time, unless it's humid and 100F+ outside.

Let us know what you find!

Thanks. I checked the coolant level just the other day, it's right at the top so there is no leak. I don't think my radiator is block because the coolant temp never went pass the 210 mark on my water temp gauge and it move up and down between 170 to maybe 205 during my drive pretty much same as it has been since the day I put the gauge on so that part didn't change.

I know what you mean how the 0-40 runs cooler. I definitely agree and that has been the case for me as well up until the last few thousand miles. I don't think it's the 0-40 fault at all. My car is an early 2011 and I have seen this year model seem to have a higher number of rod bearing problems as the 2008 based on that small statistic pool. Something has definitely changed in my engine the last 5-7k miles. Maybe it's psychological but the engine sounds rougher too. I would like to find out what it is. I like to work on my car anyway so it's fun for me to take it apart. Maybe the bearing will be perfectly fine but at ~90k, I figure it will be good insurance to check. I will definitely report back what I find.

[e92zero]

Originally Posted by Richbot

Your radiator and cooler are probably getting quite a few bent fins and bugs/debris caught in them at this mileage, which on cumulative effect can really reduce their efficiency. Good idea to take a fin straightener to any radiator every 50k or so, I'm lazy but need to do this as I've noticed a lot of bugs and bent fins behind the lower grille opening in both the oil cooler and radiator. Unfortunately you really need to pull the bumper cover to do a good job. Not saying that's an issue, but it could be one reason for the change you've noticed

Thanks for the idea. I actually checked the fan is working perfectly fine and the coolant temp didn't really went up noticeably even if it did. I will double check the radiator and oil cooler just to make sure.