Whos running Mobil 1 0w-40?

[aus]

Originally Posted by Killerfish2012

Clearly mobil intended their 0W40 for street use, and their 5W50 formular for racing. Oddly enough, Mobil 1 5W 50, and Total racing 10W50 have almost identical specs. I will be switching to mobil 5W50, and will be using this oil year round, including summer track days. It's much much cheaper than the total, which is a plus!

Are you catless?
Doesn't 5W50 have a lot of lead in it?

.

[Killerfish2012]

Originally Posted by aus

Are you catless?
Doesn't 5W50 have a lot of lead in it?

.

Source? Our bearings are made of lead.

[aus]

It's been mentioned in MANY of the oil threads here.

[Killerfish2012]

Originally Posted by aus

It's been mentioned in MANY of the oil threads here.

Used oil analysis of Mobil 1 5W50 used a a porsche cayman S that say 5 track days (550 track miles), and 2,000+ total street and track miles:

ZERO LEAD
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...30#Post2069330

[dparm]

Only the 5w30 and some of the lighter M1 grades had 1-2ppm of lead.

[Z K]

Went out to a track day this past weekend. The air temperature was over 100 degrees. I ran a mix of 6 quarts Mobil 1 0w40 and 3 quarts of Redline 10w60. I had a few quarts of Redline so I mixed it in. The oil had about 3k miles on it prior to the track day.

Car ran fine. It didn't burn any oil. Didn't run any different than TWS on track. Otherwise I don't have anything constructive to add. Planning on changing the oil now as it took quite a beating on that day.

[HapaM3]

Blackstone report to accompany your review please Z K.

[Z K]

Originally Posted by HapaM3

Blackstone report to accompany your review please Z K.

I don't have any of blackstone containers to use and I'm planning on changing the oil this week so I can't get them before then.

Edit: I'm asking a local friend if I can use his blackstone container for analysis.

[gatorfast]

ZK, you don't necessarily need a blackstone container. Any clean, small, sealable container should do.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by Z K

Went out to a track day this past weekend. The air temperature was over 100 degrees. I ran a mix of 6 quarts Mobil 1 0w40 and 3 quarts of Redline 10w60. I had a few quarts of Redline so I mixed it in. The oil had about 3k miles on it prior to the track day.

Car ran fine. It didn't burn any oil. Didn't run any different than TWS on track. Otherwise I don't have anything constructive to add. Planning on changing the oil now as it took quite a beating on that day.

I'd just tell you to run the M1 0w40 and not bother mixing. If you must mix with M1 0w40 but want to thicken it a bit, try and stay with M1 -- they have a 15w50 with HTHS of 4.5. If you go 50/50 on the 0w40 and 15w50, that would give you HTHS of around 4.1-4.2 (about 10% thinner in operation than what TWS tends to stabilize at).

Otherwise, just run straight Red Line 5w40 or 0w40 (HTHS of 4.4 and 4.0, respectively). There are other options like Renewable Lube 5w40 and Motul 300V 5w40 (HTHS 4.5) too, if BMW certifications are not important to you.

Just remember that you want as thin as possible but as thick as necessary. Thicker = more heat and not necessarily better protection. You need an oil pressure gauge to truly determine if your oil is the right viscosity.

[Z K]

Originally Posted by dparm

I'd just tell you to run the M1 0w40 and not bother mixing. If you must mix with M1 0w40 but want to thicken it a bit, try and stay with M1 -- they have a 15w50 with HTHS of 4.5. If you go 50/50 on the 0w40 and 15w50, that would give you HTHS of around 4.1-4.2 (about 10% thinner in operation than what TWS tends to stabilize at).

Otherwise, just run straight Red Line 5w40 or 0w40 (HTHS of 4.4 and 4.0, respectively). There are other options like Renewable Lube 5w40 and Motul 300V 5w40 (HTHS 4.5) too, if BMW certifications are not important to you.

Just remember that you want as thin as possible but as thick as necessary. Thicker = more heat and not necessarily better protection. You need an oil pressure gauge to truly determine if your oil is the right viscosity.

I had a few left over quarts of Redline 10w60 so I stuck it in to use it up. No other reason - I wasn't going for a blend. I am now running 100% 0w40 now after my oil change.

I just sent in the sample to Blackstone today. Very curious to see the oil analysis especially since I ran a track day in 100+ degree heat on this sample. I'm sure the oil got worked hard.

[MFKN3]

How about people with stokers and/or superchargers? I'd be keen to hear what they are using.

I have both, so my bearing clearances are good.

2 engine builders have told me to go with 10W40 M1 or motul. Or M1 5W50 was also recommended. (I'm currently running TWS)

[kawasaki00]

Originally Posted by MFKN3

How about people with stokers and/or superchargers? I'd be keen to hear what they are using.

I have both, so my bearing clearances are good.

2 engine builders have told me to go with 10W40 M1 or motul. Or M1 5W50 was also recommended. (I'm currently running TWS)

If the clearances are set right the 5-50 is not that great of choice. It does not stay 50wt for long anyway. Living where you do a 5-40 or a 10-40 is a good choice. The Mobil 1 High Milege 10-40 is a excellent oil. Dont pay attention to the high mileage thing as it is just a branding for higher add pack and conditioners. Your engine does not have to have a bunch of miles for it to work well.
Another proven blend for supercharged guys is 50-50 mix of 0-40 and 15-50 mobil 1. Change it every 4k miles. This mix has been running in a car on this board that makes big power and has been for quite a while. You can PM me for more info on that. His request was it not be discussed here.

[HapaM3]

My break-in report with a BMW remanufactured long block purchased in early 2014 on Mobil 1 0W40.

I'm wondering since I had catastrophic bearing failure and the oil cooler and lines were not flushed, that it had some affected the results.

[italyix]

Originally Posted by HapaM3

My break-in report with a BMW remanufactured long block purchased in early 2014 on Mobil 1 0W40.

I'm wondering since I had catastrophic bearing failure and the oil cooler and lines were not flushed, that it had some affected the results.

The Lead and Copper make no sense as to why they are so high, as you stated the engine was from 2014 which would assume the usage of lead free bearings. But as you also state it might be due to lack of flushing the lines and cooler.

The next report should tell the difference, hopefully.

[thekurgan]

Originally Posted by italyix

The Lead and Copper make no sense as to why they are so high, as you stated the engine was from 2014 which would assume the usage of lead free bearings. But as you also state it might be due to lack of flushing the lines and cooler.

The next report should tell the difference, hopefully.

The lead may be because the remanufactured engine was on a shelf somewhere and remanufactured pre-2011?

[italyix]

Originally Posted by thekurgan

The lead may be because the remanufactured engine was on a shelf somewhere and remanufactured pre-2011?

I would think you would see much more lead that copper in the sample if the bearings were wearing again, and wear like this in 1k miles is (I think) extremely unlikely.

Lead is (or was) the sacrificial layer in the old bearings, then copper would show up. I wouldn't stress about it, prolly old oil left over from the previous engine. If it freaks you out, just change the oil again for a flush. Make sure to sample another batch and report back.

[MFKN3]

Originally Posted by kawasaki00

If the clearances are set right the 5-50 is not that great of choice. It does not stay 50wt for long anyway. Living where you do a 5-40 or a 10-40 is a good choice. The Mobil 1 High Milege 10-40 is a excellent oil. Dont pay attention to the high mileage thing as it is just a branding for higher add pack and conditioners. Your engine does not have to have a bunch of miles for it to work well.
Another proven blend for supercharged guys is 50-50 mix of 0-40 and 15-50 mobil 1. Change it every 4k miles. This mix has been running in a car on this board that makes big power and has been for quite a while. You can PM me for more info on that. His request was it not be discussed here.

Thanks man!

For various reasons, I'm on-board and believe TWS is not ideal for our engines.

I suspect with the extra s/charger heat and track time, I need something a little more serious than 0w40? Just as a FYI, we see about 40F in winter and 110F in summer and I do an oil change every 2 track days.

Redline 5w40 & 10w40 both look good. So does M1 10w40 or the 0w40/15w50 combo. Also Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 may be a contender ("Pennzoil" in USA).

Which one do the oil gods recommend?

[Flying Ace]

a lot of great information here. My next change will be with the M1 0-40.

In about 9 months, I'll post side-by-side results of my Blackstones. They will show wear metals for the TWS, Edge Pro, and M1.

Hopefully it will be a useful set of data for discussion!

[MFKN3]

Originally Posted by MFKN3

Thanks man!

For various reasons, I'm on-board and believe TWS is not ideal for our engines.

I suspect with the extra s/charger heat and track time, I need something a little more serious than 0w40? Just as a FYI, we see about 40F in winter and 110F in summer and I do an oil change every 2 track days.

Redline 5w40 & 10w40 both look good. So does M1 10w40 or the 0w40/15w50 combo. Also Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 may be a contender ("Pennzoil" in USA).

Which one do the oil gods recommend?

Redline 5w40 and 10w40 look almost identical on paper

I'm probably going to give the RL 10w40 a try this week, as it looks a bit better than the M1.

[JEllis]

Originally Posted by HapaM3

My break-in report with a BMW remanufactured long block purchased in early 2014 on Mobil 1 0W40.

I'm wondering since I had catastrophic bearing failure and the oil cooler and lines were not flushed, that it had some affected the results.

The oil cooler and lines hold a descent amount of oil. Having changed my oil cooler twice. First to a Motorsport oil cooler and then changed back to stock, there is a lot of oil that can pool in the bottom of the cooler. If your engine did crap a bunch of metal into the oil system, then no doubt some of it made it to the the oil cooler. Personally I would have flushed the whole oil system before installing the new engine.

That being said, your report, as it states... should not be alarming for a brand new engine.

[SenorFunkyPants]

Viscosity in the low 30s after 1000 miles isn't a bit low?