Who tracks with stock brakes?

[lutfy]

Originally Posted by M3 Esq.

I think that is the best approach. Use it until it gives you a reason to upgrade.

Happy to report I have a solution after burning through countless sets of PF08s (lasting one weekend on average). Would get mushy pedal with rotors glowing orange upon return to garage.

Previous: PF08 with motul 600

Current: prospeed 683 (Bimmerworld guys swear by this and convinced me to just try it), Performance friction direct drive rotors, Bimmerworld SS lines (only because my stock rubber ones were getting moist on caliper joint with fluid and wanted to be safe; not a performance mod), Bimmerworld solid guide pins to eliminate uneven pad wear and convert stock caliper to fixed. PC 08 pads and NO ducting. But did remove backing plate which was burnt orange and rusting.

After speaking to a few teams at 24 hours of Dubai running stock calipers and pagid yellows for the duration of the race in e92 m3, I knew there was hope...

Well fellas, happy to report 8 sessions on summit point main and 1/3 pad wear (if that). No glowing or glazing of rotors and very very confidence inspiring. No caliper flex either. The pedal feels firm too. Long and short no more issues with the brakes.

The new rotors are cool much better due to inherent design. Those cheese drilled stock rotors ate up pads for no reason (Spoke with GAry Gray at Bimmerworld who confirmed this).

Very happy with above setup.

Lutfy

[Groundpilot]

Originally Posted by lutfy

Happy to report I have a solution after burning through countless sets of PF08s (lasting one weekend on average). Would get mushy pedal with rotors glowing orange upon return to garage.

Previous: PF08 with motul 600

Current: prospeed 683 (Bimmerworld guys swear by this and convinced me to just try it), Performance friction direct drive rotors, Bimmerworld SS lines (only because my stock rubber ones were getting moist on caliper joint with fluid and wanted to be safe; not a performance mod), Bimmerworld solid guide pins to eliminate uneven pad wear and convert stock caliper to fixed. PC 08 pads and NO ducting. But did remove backing plate which was burnt orange and rusting.

After speaking to a few teams at 24 hours of Dubai running stock calipers and pagid yellows for the duration of the race in e92 m3, I knew there was hope...

Well fellas, happy to report 8 sessions on summit point main and 1/3 pad wear (if that). No glowing or glazing of rotors and very very confidence inspiring. No caliper flex either. The pedal feels firm too. Long and short no more issues with the brakes.

The new rotors are cool much better due to inherent design. Those cheese drilled stock rotors ate up pads for no reason (Spoke with GAry Gray at Bimmerworld who confirmed this).

Very happy with above setup.

Lutfy

Very nice. I was about to pull the trigger on trophy stop tech bbk, but i think now i am going to try the same set uo as yours with the exeption of the ss lines and brake fluid. I am running castrol srf for 3 years and like it a lot.
Do you have to bed in pfc-08 pads or just drive to the track and go?
Do they come with retaining clips now?

[lutfy]

Originally Posted by Groundpilot

Very nice. I was about to pull the trigger on trophy stop tech bbk, but i think now i am going to try the same set uo as yours with the exeption of the ss lines and brake fluid. I am running castrol srf for 3 years and like it a lot.
Do you have to bed in pfc-08 pads or just drive to the track and go?
Do they come with retaining clips now?

Can't go wrong with SRF and yeah SS not needed. How is the pedal after the event? Bleed each track weekend or Seasonally?

Be curious to hear your finding. Again am ecstatic with this as I didn't want to go
BBK . 08 now comes with clips to caliper. Do you use ducting? I don't. Ran my best at summit point main with ra1s and camber plates on an otherwise stock car. 1:24 2 . Had more confidence with renewed braking to push on brake zones.

Some guy on one of your WGi lap time posted 2:07 or such, from NY. Also on stock calipers.

[quicktwinturbo]

Has anyone tried Brembo Ceramic pads? (http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...8&autoModClar=)

[03///m3]

Originally Posted by lutfy

Happy to report I have a solution after burning through countless sets of PF08s (lasting one weekend on average). Would get mushy pedal with rotors glowing orange upon return to garage.

Previous: PF08 with motul 600

Current: prospeed 683 (Bimmerworld guys swear by this and convinced me to just try it), Performance friction direct drive rotors, Bimmerworld SS lines (only because my stock rubber ones were getting moist on caliper joint with fluid and wanted to be safe; not a performance mod), Bimmerworld solid guide pins to eliminate uneven pad wear and convert stock caliper to fixed. PC 08 pads and NO ducting. But did remove backing plate which was burnt orange and rusting.

After speaking to a few teams at 24 hours of Dubai running stock calipers and pagid yellows for the duration of the race in e92 m3, I knew there was hope...

Well fellas, happy to report 8 sessions on summit point main and 1/3 pad wear (if that). No glowing or glazing of rotors and very very confidence inspiring. No caliper flex either. The pedal feels firm too. Long and short no more issues with the brakes.

The new rotors are cool much better due to inherent design. Those cheese drilled stock rotors ate up pads for no reason (Spoke with GAry Gray at Bimmerworld who confirmed this).

Very happy with above setup.

Lutfy

Good to hear this setup is working for you. I'm debating about what brake upgrade to get- staying with the stock caliper setup or going front bbk. Out of curiosity, what run group do you drive in?

[Groundpilot]

Originally Posted by lutfy

Can't go wrong with SRF and yeah SS not needed. How is the pedal after the event? Bleed each track weekend or Seasonally?

Be curious to hear your finding. Again am ecstatic with this as I didn't want to go
BBK . 08 now comes with clips to caliper. Do you use ducting? I don't. Ran my best at summit point main with ra1s and camber plates on an otherwise stock car. 1:24 2 . Had more confidence with renewed braking to push on brake zones.

Some guy on one of your WGi lap time posted 2:07 or such, from NY. Also on stock calipers.

SRF fluid is great. No bleeding needed at all untill you change it once a year.
I dont use ducting.
I will report back about this set up some time in may, when i go to WGI.
That guy posted video last year and if i remember correctly his time was 2:08.9. He had MCS coilovers, i hear they are the best for our cars. Still, very impressive time for sure.

[lutfy]

Originally Posted by 03///m3

Good to hear this setup is working for you. I'm debating about what brake upgrade to get- staying with the stock caliper setup or going front bbk. Out of curiosity, what run group do you drive in?

I drive in the I (instructor group).

Pilot: yup that sounds like the same fellow.

[ayao]

Originally Posted by lutfy

Happy to report I have a solution after burning through countless sets of PF08s (lasting one weekend on average). Would get mushy pedal with rotors glowing orange upon return to garage.

Previous: PF08 with motul 600

Current: prospeed 683 (Bimmerworld guys swear by this and convinced me to just try it), Performance friction direct drive rotors, Bimmerworld SS lines (only because my stock rubber ones were getting moist on caliper joint with fluid and wanted to be safe; not a performance mod), Bimmerworld solid guide pins to eliminate uneven pad wear and convert stock caliper to fixed. PC 08 pads and NO ducting. But did remove backing plate which was burnt orange and rusting.

After speaking to a few teams at 24 hours of Dubai running stock calipers and pagid yellows for the duration of the race in e92 m3, I knew there was hope...

Well fellas, happy to report 8 sessions on summit point main and 1/3 pad wear (if that). No glowing or glazing of rotors and very very confidence inspiring. No caliper flex either. The pedal feels firm too. Long and short no more issues with the brakes.

The new rotors are cool much better due to inherent design. Those cheese drilled stock rotors ate up pads for no reason (Spoke with GAry Gray at Bimmerworld who confirmed this).

Very happy with above setup.

Lutfy

If you were to guess, how much are the solid guide pins contributing to the improvement?

[03///m3]

Originally Posted by lutfy

I drive in the I (instructor group).

Pilot: yup that sounds like the same fellow.

Thanks. If also like to know how much you think the guide pins helped. Are these easy to install? Also do you know why they recommend you only use PF pads with the direct drive rotors? I wonder if I could use pagids would it damage the rotor?

[lutfy]

Originally Posted by 03///m3

Thanks. If also like to know how much you think the guide pins helped. Are these easy to install? Also do you know why they recommend you only use PF pads with the direct drive rotors? I wonder if I could use pagids would it damage the rotor?

Running same brand pads are for consistency so there is no undue pad residue causing vibration under braking (also known as warped rotors by many even though the term is not correct). So alternating between say PF Z pads and PF 08 pads, you wouldn't encounter dramatically different pad materials to induce this. HOWEVER, rotors are metal pieces and pad residue can come off. I use Jurid stock pads on the street so rest assured you'll be fine with any pads you use with them. Don't let this ever be planted in your head

Guide pins were mostly for wear. I would get uneven wear with top of (one side) of pad worn more than the bottom by sometimes almost a third. Imagine looking at a pad area and the top part is to the metal whereas its grading more and more headed to the other side with 1/3 more material left at the bottom. Same thing on the other side of the rotor (opposite effect). This way I have completely even wear. Did I feel a firmer pedal due to this and SS lines? No I didn't.

However, this complete package was recommended by BWorld and I wanted to give it one last shot with everything they recommended before I threw the stock system away (was that frustrated), now, no more.

Lutfy

[Groundpilot]

Originally Posted by 03///m3

Thanks. If also like to know how much you think the guide pins helped. Are these easy to install? Also do you know why they recommend you only use PF pads with the direct drive rotors? I wonder if I could use pagids would it damage the rotor?

Solid guide pin busings eliminate caliper twist caused by stock rubber bushings. This will allow your caliper squeeze evenly on both sides of the rotor. Thats how BBKs work but with more pistons. Basicaly solid bushings transform stock floating caliper to fixed caliper. These pins are very easy to install.
You can use Pagid pads if you want There is another poster Victor, who used pagids rs19 with pfc rotors and liked it also.

[03///m3]

Thanks for the feedback Lufty & Groundpilot. I appreciate it. I'm really torn on what to do with my braking system - upgrade stock components or go front BBK.

[CanAutM3]

I do.

Except for PF08 pads, everything is stock (even the fluid). My experience is very positive thus far. I do 18-20 track days per season and my E92 has 5 1/2 seasons under its belt so far. I run NT01 r-comps and the tracks I run all have 125mph+ straights and some over 140mph. The sessions I run are usually 30min but I have done back to back sessions for 60min runs more than once. I have never encountered significant fade or lost brakes.

The only occasions I did see some light fade, is when using MDM on a dry track. Swithing DSC/MDM off brought back the brakes almost immediately.

The stock fluid has worked well for me so far and my dealer has been kind enough to support a yearly fluid flush as part of the maintenance program, this is the only reason I have stuck with it so far. Castrol SRF would likely bring an additional safety margin.

I started off using Hawk HP+ that performed decently well. Never had an issue with them. I enventually switched to PF08s as they last twice as long yet they are not twice as expensive. Further, the PF08 have a much better initial bite compared to the HP+, so I can be more precise with my braking and they are more confidence inspiring.

[Groundpilot]

Originally Posted by CanAutM3

I do.

Except for PF08 pads, everything is stock (even the fluid). My experience is very positive thus far. I do 18-20 track days per season and my E92 has 5 1/2 seasons under its belt so far. I run NT01 r-comps and the tracks I run all have 125mph+ straights and some over 140mph. The sessions I run are usually 30min but I have done back to back sessions for 60min runs more than once. I have never encountered significant fade or lost brakes.

The only occasions I did see some light fade, is when using MDM on a dry track. Swithing DSC/MDM off brought back the brakes almost immediately.

The stock fluid has worked well for me so far and my dealer has been kind enough to support a yearly fluid flush as part of the maintenance program, this is the only reason I have stuck with it so far. Castrol SRF would likely bring an additional safety margin.

I started off using Hawk HP+ that performed decently well. Never had an issue with them. I enventually switched to PF08s as they last twice as long yet they are not twice as expensive. Further, the PF08 have a much better initial bite compared to the HP+, so I can be more precise with my braking and they are more confidence inspiring.

Do you need to bed in pf08 pads or just drive to the track and go?
Last time i used pagid rs19 and did not really like them at all, maybe i didnt bed them in correctly. They are very sensitive to that bedding in process, i think i didnt follow pagids recommendation exactly. Would rather get pads that need minimum bedding or no bedding at all, like pf01s

[CanAutM3]

Originally Posted by Groundpilot

I did, every post of it. And it is why I decided to share my experience as a counterpoint.

Did I miss something ?

Originally Posted by Groundpilot

Do you need to bed in pf08 pads or just drive to the track and go?
Last time i used pagid rs19 and did not really like them at all, maybe i didnt bed them in correctly. They are very sensitive to that bedding in process, i think i didnt follow pagids recommendation exactly. Would rather get pads that need minimum bedding or no bedding at all, like pf01s

I never used Pagid (expensive for the track and noisy for the DD) so I cannot comment on them.

If I swap my pads at the track, I just do a quick bedding in the surrounding streets at low speed. Sometimes this is not possible and I go straight out on them, just being careful for the first few laps. Never had an issue with the PF08. The Hawk HP+ absolutely needed proper bedding in, otherwise you could have a no brake situation after a few hot laps.

The PF01 is a more performance oriented pad compared to the PF08 that is more of an endurance pad. For my use, the PF08 works perfectly fine .

[LiM3y]

I always bed the PFC-01 pads after installing to get the rotors coated, about 8 60-5's and a few 80-5's and then a cooling cruise.

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by Groundpilot

Do you need to bed in pf08 pads or just drive to the track and go?
Last time i used pagid rs19 and did not really like them at all, maybe i didnt bed them in correctly. They are very sensitive to that bedding in process, i think i didnt follow pagids recommendation exactly. Would rather get pads that need minimum bedding or no bedding at all, like pf01s

I had the same experience with the pagid yellows. Not sure if it was due to pagid or just something common among endurance pads in general.

It is super easy to bed in PF01s. You can do it by driving to the track.

[Groundpilot]

Hey CanAut m3, i have no idea where did that stupid sign come from? I must have pressed on it by mistake and didnt notice it. Sorry for the confusion.

Thanks on your feedback on PF pads.

[Groundpilot]

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

I had the same experience with the pagid yellows. Not sure if it was due to pagid or just something common among endurance pads in general.

It is super easy to bed in PF01s. You can do it by driving to the track.

I have never used pf pads, but heared nothing but good reviews about them.
I understand pf-01s are more track oriented pads but dont last as long as pf-08? What is the difference between them in terms of longevity?
Thanks for the feedback guys

[CanAutM3]

Originally Posted by Groundpilot

I have never used pf pads, but heared nothing but good reviews about them.
I understand pf-01s are more track oriented pads but dont last as long as pf-08? What is the difference between them in terms of longevity?
Thanks for the feedback guys

My understanding is that PF01 and PF08 are both racing pads. The PF01 is more aggressive and oriented more towards "sprint" type races and the PF08 is biased towards more durability for "endurance" type races. For my use, I find the PF08 provides plenty of stopping power and I don't feel the need to go for the more aggresive PF01. I rather take the longer durability.

[CanAutM3]

Originally Posted by Groundpilot

Hey CanAut m3, i have no idea where did that stupid sign come from? I must have pressed on it by mistake and didnt notice it. Sorry for the confusion.

Thanks on your feedback on PF pads.

All good

[quicktwinturbo]

Where wwould be the best place to order an PF08 pads in the US?