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08-09-2013, 05:00 AM | #45 | |
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If you go to Blackstone Labs website, they'll send you a free test kit. You fill it up, send it in, and then they'll charge you $25.
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08-11-2013, 12:21 AM | #46 | |
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08-11-2013, 12:41 AM | #47 |
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I agree with most of what is said in this thread with the exception of the recommendation to stay with the 10W60. I honestly think that the 10W60 may be a contributing factor to the bearing wear on daily driven cars. Every time the car is started with 10W60 oil that is 150F or less the bearings are starved for oil on the initial startup and until operating temperature is reached. A lighter oil isn't a fix but it is definitely a way to prolong the life of the bearings!
As for replacing bearings as a maintenance item, I think that is ludicrous. If you have no bearing issues with your engines, leave them alone, if you do have issues, take the time to do the repair right by sending the crank out and having the journals sized. This way you won't have to replace bearings sometime in the future since the actual problem causing the wear would be corrected! My $0.02! |
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08-11-2013, 01:22 AM | #48 | |
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The general concensus was that just increasing the distance between the rods and rod bearings would not necessarily be "a cure". As much as it sucks money wise, the conclusion I gathered from those multiple engine builders is that if a particular engine has a rod bearing issue then we have two options. A) Build the engine and possibly encounter seperate issues ($12k-$20k) or B) Replace the rod bearings as a regular maintenance item every 50-80k miles {$3-$4k) I currently have just under 14k miles and my personal game plan is to send Blackstone Labs a sample at my next oil change, drive 5-7.5k miles, send it in again, then determine if I have an issue. I know that having only two data points isn't statistically good enough to determine a trend in metal content but that thread scared the $hit out of me!
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08-11-2013, 08:36 AM | #49 | ||
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Clearances are clearances and clearance recommendations on engines have not changed in a long time. Yes, some minute differences do exist depending on the service requirements and some race teams are going a little tighter now but they aren't cutting clearance recommendations in half! They are reducing clearance by say 0.0005" or 0.00075" which still puts them in a safe range. If the S65 had even 0.0015" on the rods I probably wouldn't worry, but with 0.001" I am not comfortable. |
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08-11-2013, 09:05 AM | #50 | |
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Heck, my best shot would be to take out the rods, sand them down, and then put them back in
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08-11-2013, 10:58 AM | #51 | |
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08-11-2013, 10:01 PM | #52 |
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I think the engineers at BMW have some things figured out quite well, but obviously they need to hire someone in their engine team that understands hydrodynamic lubrication and tribology a little better!
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08-12-2013, 02:13 PM | #53 |
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Consider this my RSVP.
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08-12-2013, 06:59 PM | #54 |
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OK everyone, Bruce Willis did not actually blow up on the asteroid, that was a movie...just like your S65 won't spontaneously blow bits of rods out the side of your engine block. So take a deep breath.
Yes, this is a high maintenance engine. Yes, oil analysis is a good idea. Yes, changing your oil more frequently than the OEM interval is a good idea. Replacing your rod bearings at 50k-70k street miles? That's ridiculous. These engines will last well beyond 100k. SOME will spin bearings. That risk is the price your pay for driving a RACING engine that revs to 8400 RPM on the street. Most race engines are rebuilt after a race or maybe a couple of races for less well funded teams. Unless your car is seeing nothing but track use, then a 50k mile rod bearing replacement makes sense. Otherwise, 100k miles makes more sense. Even that is borderline insanely cautious. If my observations on the S54 hold true with the S65, then rod bearing failure rates will increase at a much higher rate after 100k miles. With that said, an S54 rod bearing job goes for about $1300 (labor + parts). I would expect the S65 to be slightly higher...maybe $1700ish. If you look at less than $2k or the cost of engine replacement, a SENSIBLE approach to managing this makes sense.
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08-12-2013, 07:12 PM | #55 | |
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08-12-2013, 09:55 PM | #56 |
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I wish I was reading this on the should I or should I not worry about my rod bearings.... instead I'm on the side where I have oil drain pan full of metal. going damn wish I did something about this. I bought the car from a grocery getter type person and I babied the car. send out a sample to blackstone at least so you have some piece of mind.
ill be starting a thread soon with my teardown and rebuild. |
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08-12-2013, 10:48 PM | #57 | |
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Have an 08 myself, have yet to send out oil samples but I do inspect the oil filters...... |
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08-13-2013, 01:16 PM | #58 | |
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08-13-2013, 02:50 PM | #60 |
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Not to get into another oil debate but what is funny about the mobil 15-50 is it has more zinc than tws and flows better at cold temps although it being rated as a 15wt.
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08-13-2013, 04:28 PM | #61 |
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BMRLVR, check this out
http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...eat-Stuff.aspx If one decides to replace the bearings, or rebuild, or stroke our motor, do you think it's worth it to treat the internals with this WPC process? It doesn't seem to be outrageously expensive. |
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08-13-2013, 04:43 PM | #62 |
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This!!! I was quoted exactly this $ amount for the rod bearing job
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08-21-2013, 01:09 PM | #63 |
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We are in the middle of inspection on a MY08 M3 w/ 104K on the odometer, VF540 was installed at 96K:
Here's Rod #8 in the meantime, we'll see how the others appear when removed.
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08-21-2013, 01:39 PM | #65 |
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Holy hell, those bearings are absolutely destroyed. The copper has delaminated all the way to the steel shell. Not much longer before you would have been putting a new engine in that thing.
Anyone else want to argue that the rod bearings need replacing at around 75k? The proof is in the pictures.
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Last edited by kawasaki00; 08-21-2013 at 01:51 PM.. |
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08-21-2013, 03:59 PM | #66 | |
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