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12-03-2025LAST POST
I've wanted an E90 M3 since they came out in 2008--poor gas mileage and perceived reliability have scared me off and I've had a whole slew of N52-powered E90s and E91s since. Anyways, I recently impulse purchased a very very cheap Chevy Bolt so my gas mileage concerns are no longer a concern, and with an extra car, I can work on the BMW myself if it needs it so I can save a lot on rush mechanic-ing.

A big problem I'm having shopping for an E90 M3 is pricing though--its all over the place. I've seen as low as $17k all the way into the mid/upper 50s.

I'm looking for a driver, not a show car and it doesn't have to be immaculate--I'm not too picky if the bottom of the bumper is a little scraped up or the steering wheel trim is peeling. I wouldn't even be that upset with a little paint swirling! Crazy I know. I also don't care 2008 vs 2009, or should I? Is there anything besides the CIC and updated styling?

I would like suspension that isn't crumbling, and ideally the TA's and RB's should have been replaced. Looking for mileage somewhere between 100-150k. I want a 6mt sedan, ideally not black and also with fold down rear seats.

What should I expect to pay for something like this? If I paid 25k for something like that, would it be a bargain or a rip-off? How about 30k?
You’re in for a treat. E90s were only produced from ‘08-‘11 so there’s simply fewer to choose from. In my experience from searching for one, there are very few that are in “driver’s car” condition and worth the asking price. Most are either ratted-out with multiple owners and accidents, or have high mileage with a low mileage asking price.

My best guess on price for a well-maintained e90 with > 100,000 miles is $30k minimum. You may strike a deal at or below that if key maintenance items aren’t accounted for.

I wish you luck in this hunt. My only advice is to search every platform multiple times each day with the search radius expanded as wide as it will allow.
I agree that pricing is literally all over the place.

I think the new idrive is much better than the old idrive. Plus the LCI cars have bluetooth audio which is really nice. I also prefer the lci tail lights, but that is just me.

Best of luck in your search! I hope you find something good!

As you know, rod bearings, throttle actuators, and fuel injectors are all important. Valve cover gaskets will have to be replaced also.
F4rmost wrote
I agree that pricing is literally all over the place.

I think the new idrive is much better than the old idrive. Plus the LCI cars have bluetooth audio which is really nice. I also prefer the lci tail lights, but that is just me.

Best of luck in your search! I hope you find something good!

As you know, rod bearings, throttle actuators, and fuel injectors are all important. Valve cover gaskets will have to be replaced also.
Yeah, the CIC is better than CCC, but the CIC in my 2009 E91 is starting to fail, I'm wondering if that's going to be a thing for whatever car I get and I'll have to get some kind of aftermarket head unit anyways.

Good looking out on the fuel injectors, I didn't realize that was a thing. Is it like the N54 cars where its roughly a zillion dollars to fix it? Also, bummer about the VCGs--I thought that since the valve covers were metal on the S65 they wouldn't be a problem. I guess BMW gonna BMW.
rothwem wrote
Yeah, the CIC is better than CCC, but the CIC in my 2009 E91 is starting to fail, I'm wondering if that's going to be a thing for whatever car I get and I'll have to get some kind of aftermarket head unit anyways.

Good looking out on the fuel injectors, I didn't realize that was a thing. Is it like the N54 cars where its roughly a zillion dollars to fix it? Also, bummer about the VCGs--I thought that since the valve covers were metal on the S65 they wouldn't be a problem. I guess BMW gonna BMW.
Luckily we have port injection, not direct. The kit is something around 400-500 dollars from FCP euro and you get a lifetime warranty. It is more of a replace as a maintenance item not as they fail, because when they fail you lose your engine.

The valve covers on these cars are magnesium. They are coated and the coating starts to fail after a period of time. This, combined with the hardening of gaskets over time results in them leaking. There are a couple of companies that make aluminum replacements.
I recently purchased a 99K mile car, manual. Car has the RB and vanos replaced and the LCI updates already done (it's a 2008.) I paid 29K and spent about 5K getting to my liking. I added car play and upgrated NAV and spent another 3500 or so on paint correction, full service and some small reparis. As it sits, it awesome for me. Not worried about miles and good to go for a while.....hopfully.

You didn't mention transmission type as that might affected value.

2008 over 100K miles - 25K-30K based on trans and condition and RB/vanos repairs
2009+ over 100K miles 28K-34K ^ same
Lower miles are crazy high....but again depends on condition and miles. Any manual under 50K miles too much....prices are nuts.

I will say BAT and C&B have NOT had many E90 manuals in the past few months. E92's seem more plentiful.
Carnut4ever wrote
I recently purchased a 99K mile car, manual. Car has the RB and vanos replaced and the LCI updates already done (it's a 2008.) I paid 29K and spent about 5K getting to my liking. I added car play and upgrated NAV and spent another 3500 or so on paint correction, full service and some small reparis. As it sits, it awesome for me. Not worried about miles and good to go for a while.....hopfully.

You didn't mention transmission type as that might affected value.

2008 over 100K miles - 25K-30K based on trans and condition and RB/vanos repairs
2009+ over 100K miles 28K-34K ^ same
Lower miles are crazy high....but again depends on condition and miles. Any manual under 50K miles too much....prices are nuts.

I will say BAT and C&B have NOT had many E90 manuals in the past few months. E92's seem more plentiful.
Cool, thanks for the pricing guide. Definitely looking for a manual and a sedan, I'd like the ability to cart my kids around if needed/desired and while I know its *possible* in the coupe, I've buckled my kids into my Dads newish Camaro enough times to know its a giant pain in the dick. So sedan.
CIC is easier to swap Android Auto or Carplay unit into if that interests you.
F4rmost wrote
Luckily we have port injection, not direct. The kit is something around 400-500 dollars from FCP euro and you get a lifetime warranty. It is more of a replace as a maintenance item not as they fail, because when they fail you lose your engine.

The valve covers on these cars are magnesium. They are coated and the coating starts to fail after a period of time. This, combined with the hardening of gaskets over time results in them leaking. There are a couple of companies that make aluminum replacements.
I don't think there's consensus on fuel injectors failing causing them to stick open and hydrolock the engine. Is it the injectors or is it something with the fuel pump sending debris to the injectors? That said I did replace mine but I suspect it's not unlikely that a stuck open injector might not be the injector's fault.
I agree with everyone else. You get what you pay for with the ones that seem cheap, but not with the ones that are expensive. I'd budget $30k for the car and $5k to immediately put into it for wear and tear stuff. You can probably find a good one in the upper 20k range if you are diligent and patient. And auction sites like BAT are going to see the highest sale prices.

Service history and how the car was treated/driven mean sooo much more than mileage.

2008 will be the cheapest since it's the pre-LCI. The car itself is the same, just different tail lights and iDrive system. Hint: e93s are much cheaper for very clean drivers, just sayin.

One of my close friends is actually selling his 2008 e90 manual. It is le mans blue. Exterior paint is really nice, palladium interior has some wear. around 90k miles I think he want's $32k.
akkando wrote
I don't think there's consensus on fuel injectors failing causing them to stick open and hydrolock the engine. Is it the injectors or is it something with the fuel pump sending debris to the injectors? That said I did replace mine but I suspect it's not unlikely that a stuck open injector might not be the injector's fault.
I think it's a combination of both. My understanding is as the fuel filter gets clogged, the pump forces larger debris through it. That debris builds up in the injector, eventually causing it to stick open.

I asked my shop (Vt since I see you're bay area) about inline filters with a finer filter. They said no, just plan on OEM fuel filter and injectors replacement every 100k miles or so.
Thumbie wrote
I agree with everyone else. You get what you pay for with the ones that seem cheap, but not with the ones that are expensive. I'd budget $30k for the car and $5k to immediately put into it for wear and tear stuff. You can probably find a good one in the upper 20k range if you are diligent and patient. And auction sites like BAT are going to see the highest sale prices.

Service history and how the car was treated/driven mean sooo much more than mileage.

2008 will be the cheapest since it's the pre-LCI. The car itself is the same, just different tail lights and iDrive system. Hint: e93s are much cheaper for very clean drivers, just sayin.

One of my close friends is actually selling his 2008 e90 manual. It is le mans blue. Exterior paint is really nice, palladium interior has some wear. around 90k miles I think he want's $32k.



I think it's a combination of both. My understanding is as the fuel filter gets clogged, the pump forces larger debris through it. That debris builds up in the injector, eventually causing it to stick open.

I asked my shop (Vt since I see you're bay area) about inline filters with a finer filter. They said no, just plan on OEM fuel filter and injectors replacement every 100k miles or so.
Oh VT was the shop that did my injectors. They seemed skeptical at the time that it was necessary and thought better to replace fuel filter.
akkando wrote
Oh VT was the shop that did my injectors. They seemed skeptical at the time that it was necessary and thought better to replace fuel filter.
Yes the focus of our conversation was more on the filter. Injectors were more for peace of mind.

OP: How is the search going? There is a classified section on this forum, which is a good place to search since forum people probably care for their cars better than some broccoli-hair kid selling on Marketplace because he couldn't afford to have the air filter changed lol.

EDIT: When you are looking, don't stress about the throttle actuators. The replacements are not the cheapest, but the swap is straightforward. People act like the car is worthless if they haven't been done. Yes, it is a very common issue, but not something that damages the car if it hasn't been done. IMO the vanos covers or fuel filter are more important to have done preventatively. TAs can just be done whenever the car starts throwing a code. Just my opinion.
IMO you should be looking to pay $23k-$25k or so for a driver 6MT E90 with likely rod bearings done.
(Agreed original throttle body actuators are no big deal, just replace when needed.)

Folding rear seats were VERY uncommon on the E90s (it makes no sense, I know) so you might have to give up on those if you stick with the sedan. Retrofitting a folding interior isn't so bad after the fact. Adding 2 more doors to a 2-door is basically impossible. ;)

rothwem wrote
I thought that since the valve covers were metal on the S65 they wouldn't be a problem.
:bellyroll :bellyroll :bellyroll They are worse than the plastic ones.
Thumbie wrote
Yes the focus of our conversation was more on the filter. Injectors were more for peace of mind.

OP: How is the search going? There is a classified section on this forum, which is a good place to search since forum people probably care for their cars better than some broccoli-hair kid selling on Marketplace because he couldn't afford to have the air filter changed lol.

EDIT: When you are looking, don't stress about the throttle actuators. The replacements are not the cheapest, but the swap is straightforward. People act like the car is worthless if they haven't been done. Yes, it is a very common issue, but not something that damages the car if it hasn't been done. IMO the vanos covers or fuel filter are more important to have done preventatively. TAs can just be done whenever the car starts throwing a code. Just my opinion.
Cool, thanks for the info on the throttle actuators.

Search is not really going awesome. I've been slammed at work and haven't really had time to drive anything. There's not a lot of options locally and I'm probably going to have to do some kind of fly/buy but that's a big commitment. I've done it before and it went absurdly well, but I felt like I was on the phone 9 hours a day for two weeks before the flight--PPI's, cashiers checks, sales contracts, etc etc and I just don't have time for that right now.

I also keep flip flopping between just manual swapping my wagon--the S65 is awesome but it comes with some serious downsides and the N52 is super good in its own right. A wagon with a manual and all M3 suspension parts would be 90% of the fun of an M3, I could probably do it all for <$5k, and it would be a wagon, which is the perfect car form.

That's the exact logic for how I ended up with a 325i in 2009 though :D
BenFenner wrote
IMO you should be looking to pay $23k-$25k or so for a driver 6MT E90 with likely rod bearings done.
(Agreed original throttle body actuators are no big deal, just replace when needed.)

Folding rear seats were VERY uncommon on the E90s (it makes no sense, I know) so you might have to give up on those if you stick with the sedan. Retrofitting a folding interior isn't so bad after the fact. Adding 2 more doors to a 2-door is basically impossible. ;)


:bellyroll :bellyroll :bellyroll They are worse than the plastic ones.
Man, interesting info on the valve covers. I like that price range, but all I'm finding is DCT's and I really don't want a DCT car.

Also interesting on the folding seats, I would definitely want them. I had them in my 2006 325i E90 sedan and I used the crap out of them, and in my current E91, that long space is really useful.
rothwem wrote
A wagon with a manual and all M3 suspension parts would be 90% of the fun of an M3
Not a chance. The V8 is the only thing useful about the M3.

I have a 6MT RWD E91.
I also have a 6MT E90 M3.
The wagon is by far and away the better car, but it is not 90% of an M3. The S65 is 90% of the M3.

There is a reason I'm keeping the S65 and 6MT, then tossing the rest of the car in the trash... ;)


And boy oh boy does the N52 also have mind-boggling, engine-ruining problems. Don't get me started on the engine ingesting accessory belts. :bellyroll
BenFenner wrote
Not a chance. The V8 the only thing useful about the M3.

I have a 6MT RWD E91.
I also have a 6MT E90 M3.
The wagon is by far and away the better car, but it is not 90% of an M3. The S65 is 90% of the M3.

There is a reason I'm keeping the S65 and 6MT, then tossing the rest of the car in the trash... ;)


And boy oh boy does the N52 also have mind-boggling, engine-ruining problems. Don't get me started on the engine ingesting accessory belts. :bellyroll
I can’t tell, are you trying to talk me into or out of an E90 M3? :D :D

Kidding aside, I’m not going to track this thing, I’ve got two little kids, I’m in grad school and my work is pretty demanding. I love the idea of V8+RWD+manual+LSD and the sound the E90 M3 makes is pretty exceptional.

It’s just that I get the same awesome chassis with better gas mileage at the cost less power and less sound. I had the same internal debate back in 2009 but now the cars cost less and I have a looot more money than then, which tips the scale more towards the M3.

Since then I’ve owned some sport bikes and driven a bunch of EVs that are fast as fuck, I’m wondering if the power of the M3 is going to be underwhelming.

I need to drive some cars I think.
I will say, driving the S65 around town is actually pretty underwhelming. Since the power is high in the RPM range, it doesn't feel very quick between stoplights. It's when you are on the twisting roads that it comes alive.

Oh and my friend selling his blue 2008 e90 6-speed had a potential buyer bail. Just sayin...
Thumbie wrote
I will say, driving the S65 around town is actually pretty underwhelming. Since the power is high in the RPM range, it doesn't feel very quick between stoplights. It's when you are on the twisting roads that it comes alive.

Oh and my friend selling his blue 2008 e90 6-speed had a potential buyer bail. Just sayin...
Hmm. We do have lots of twisty roads here. I’m guessing your friend is on the opposite side of the country from me though.
Don't discount a DCT until you drive one. Its quicker than a manual, and i think it makes for a better overall driving car. And the DCT's are pretty much bullet proof. I've always been a manual guy, but the DCT is pretty damn impressive.
Nomad Dave wrote
Don't discount a DCT until you drive one. Its quicker than a manual, and i think it makes for a better overall driving car. And the DCT's are pretty much bullet proof. I've always been a manual guy, but the DCT is pretty damn impressive.
Meh. If this was a track toy, I'd go DCT all day but at the moment I'm manual-less and I'm missing the third pedal. 6MT or bust for me.