Definitely original with that date, I would open it up and give the gears a look and make sure nothing seems out of the ordinary. I even sprayed some 3M silicone wet spray on the output shaft for the bearings in there and then a bit on the gears too. I just couldn't assembly them dry as the Odometer Gears people directed.
While the car is apart lube up the throttle linkages.
Then I would replace all the FETs on the circuit board including the one you just replaced.
I have identified several other parts on this board that could be replaced as well if you want something else to try. I been meaning to post this hoping someone would try it but hadn't had much time lately. I actually spent the better part of a day researching this so here goes:
Almost all these parts can be found on Digikey.com or Mouser.com or Findchips.com is a great site that searches a bunch of other sites all at once.
First of all, don't touch the big microprocessor is a SAK-C164CL-8RM. You must have a proper preheater and hot air/infrared rework station for this guy to be replaced. It would probably need to be reprogrammed... A major headache....
Also There is a part labeled 24LC02BE. It's an EEPROM it might have code saved in it and if replaced would need to be reprogrammed. I wouldn't touch this one until you have tried replacing all the rest of the parts below. There is a chance the CLPD would just reprogram it in system upon power up but that's seems unlikely to me.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=24LC02BE/SN
Alright, so what CAN you replace easily?
There is a TLE4275 voltage regulator. It's a power supply basically. It has 4275D. It's one of these guys:
http://www.mouser.com/Texas-Instruments/Semiconductors/Power-Management-ICs/LDO-Voltage-Regulators/TLE4275-Q1-Series/_/N-5cgac?P=1yxz3b1Z1z0zls6
Sorry I put mine back together without figuring out what package it is. It's one of the TO-something packages I think. Measure yours and compare to the datasheet or order both or order the smaller one TO-252 package, it will probably still make connection even if the board pads are bigger/wider. They are $2.56 each. I am pretty sure the UK rebuild guys replace this guy as part of their regular procedure.
There is another regulator with 4266 G on it. here it is:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Infineon-Technologies/TLE42662GSV33HTMA2/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsGz1a6aV8DcL6MVlIYKeMmKp0o1DUfPqg%3d
There is a comparator with ST 2903 that is the LM2903 from ST Micro. Here ya go
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/stmicroelectronics/LM2903YDT/497-10215-1-ND/2193292
Of course the main driver FET that everyone is replacing when it burns out
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fairchild-Semiconductor/HUFA76429D3ST_F085/?qs=N%2F3wi2MvZWAJl6Ov0x0rig%3D%3D Also there is like 5 or 6 of these on the board...The best chance of success is replacing all of them.
There is an oscillator next to the big microprocessor. I didn't see it for sale anywhwere but I believe it's the Abracon HC49/U with the MJ option. I'll let you guys hunt that one down for now. I think you might could wedge any crystal 16MHz jobber in there and make it work.
There is a CAN Transceiver on there. You gotta talk to your CAR Area Network if you're a throttle actuator right? yep, it's like LAN that your computer uses but for cars. It has a A82C250 on it.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NXP-Semiconductors/PCA82C250T-YM115/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsGqoCZrYwANsVRaXQ%2fj75rfWR2VL7zD4g%3d
Ok those are the easy ones that I have high confidence I identified correctly.
Nowww, the harder ones. It seems like the designer likes the Infineon and NXP parts so anyway. Those are the safe replacements these ones are fairly safe still but I didn't have much to go on. As you will see, sometimes just 3 letters, a particular package and a rough judgement if a part like that would make sense in that area of the board. For instance smaller auxillary fets are often found near the main driver fets so without further ado:
there a little IC with a 13t written on it. I am pretty sure it's the
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NXP-Semiconductors/BC847BPN135/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMshyDBzk1%2fWi7dklbCN21lXKrrwl8mDRPs%3d Here is one of the aux FETs I mentioned.
the one with 6Bt could be
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NXP-Semiconductors/BC817-25W115/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMshyDBzk1%2fWi7dklbCN21lXmsxvvlzDM%2fM%3d another Aux FET.
A57 don't know! for the life of me couldn't find it. It's probably just a schottkey diode with 60V rating and .5-1A current rating.
A4t could be
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NXP-Semiconductors/BAV70215/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvKM5ialpXrmivcJdK%252bndx0 Notice all these are NXP, talk about playing favorites! heh we all do it A diode makes sense to be near the main driver fets. Diodes are used to the flow currents in between the FETs turning on and off. Makes it easier on the FETs. So they could be failing if the FETs are failing.
The A1t could be
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NXP-Semiconductors/BAW56215/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMutXGli8Ay4kDE4J8KCiPsFf5NFJfRpOss%3d here is another diode.
There are a couple other that I just couldn't find they are the ones with T1s, A7, 1Cs. I searched long and hard and nothing. Sorry no one's perfect.
Of course, some of the resistors and capacitors on the board could have degraded to the point where they don't work so all this is no sure thing.
It kinda sucks that you don't know what is wrong without testing it so you will be throwing parts (money) at it hoping for a fix. I know someone had these boards in the lab and was trying stuff but they stopped posting.
And finally the disclaimer, try all this at your own risk. I'm not responsible for any damage to your car or you or anyone else. I will say that when my board fails. I am going to do this to my board and put it my car soooooo Good Luck!!
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