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CamasM3e93 wrote
Picked up my e90 from the shop after BE bearings, Carbahn vanos covers and a fresh Guibo (giubo?). These Clevite VAC bearings had 65k supercharged miles. It appears something came through and scratched shell 6 but nothing was worse for wear otherwise. I finished the day driving 400 miles south through Oregon and into California. I missed my M3!
Those bearings look brand new for 65k, why did you even bother changing them to BE?
GORDON.M3 wrote
Those bearings look brand new for 65k, why did you even bother changing them to BE?
Because….VAC. I had no idea which of their 4-5 designs were on the car and I want to continue to drive the piss out of it with confidence. The one bearing change for life wasn’t true for the e46 and I think it’s too early to judge whether it’s true for the s65. So now I don’t know to think about it.
jjjoootttaaa wrote
Finally put my spacers on.
15F/12R
Looks gorgeous
Changed brake and clutch fluid. Put out Motul RBF700 (yellow) after 1.5 year, and put in street dot4, just to refresh the system with a more durable fluid, because I'm not going to track the car in a short future.

Also, replaced the pre-cat lambda sensor from bank 1, that failed. If anybody might be interested, Hella sensor worked just fine, even it being a little different in design. Paid 80 usd from cars245.com.

Car appears to be more sharp due to the new sensor.
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Chasing a coolant leak. I think it’s the line from the expansion tank…maybe.
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Started looking for another daily to get some serious maintenance done on my E90. Test drove a E39 M5 and turned out to be a complete shitshow for the money they were asking.

Also it felt like driving a damn truck, the throw and height of the shifter was outrageous. Almost comical.
nick3753 wrote
Chasing a coolant leak. I think it’s the line from the expansion tank…maybe.
These are notorious for cracking. It’s a simple replacement.
New exhaust 😁😁😁
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CamasM3e93 wrote
Picked up my e90 from the shop after BE bearings, Carbahn vanos covers and a fresh Guibo (giubo?). These Clevite VAC bearings had 65k supercharged miles. It appears something came through and scratched shell 6 but nothing was worse for wear otherwise. I finished the day driving 400 miles south through Oregon and into California. I missed my M3!
These Clevite shells are pristine. I would have put them right back in the car and not looked at them ever again. Now you don't even know if your new BEs will wear as well as these.
Ajolives wrote
Started looking for another daily to get some serious maintenance done on my E90. Test drove a E39 M5 and turned out to be a complete shitshow for the money they were asking.

Also it felt like driving a damn truck, the throw and height of the shifter was outrageous. Almost comical.
:lol: The shifter comment got me!!!!
Redd wrote
These Clevite shells are pristine. I would have put them right back in the car and not looked at them ever again. Now you don't even know if your new BEs will wear as well as these.
I suppose I could remove the BE bearings in 65k miles and compare the photos……

I agree, whatever iteration from VAC these were, solid.
CamasM3e93 wrote
I suppose I could remove the BE bearings in 65k miles and compare the photos……

I agree, whatever iteration from VAC these were, solid.
You should post the pic in the rod bearing thread.
Installed an RKP GT - Race Diffuser I picked up from the forum. As simple as I thought it would’ve been…I attempted the install twice because I could NOT get this thing aligned correctly…and there are STILL gaps 😭 praying it doesn’t fly off into the highway
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Better profile pic of the wheels. Getting a nice detail in the morning too after I get off work
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08M3E93 wrote
New exhaust 😁😁😁
Interesting! Looking forward to your review mate...;)
Well I tried to drive her to work as I've been having issues with my 335 daily. Drove about a mile and started getting crazy lurching and bucking car running like a tractor, CEL.

Pull to a shopping center, turn it off and it will crank up fine, stumble and die. Crank again starts, stumbles for 1 second, dies again. Rinse and repeat 4 more times. Pull the negative terminal and sit for 15 minutes, reattach and it starts up fine and I get it home.

Codes showing on my schwaben scanner are:

9520: DSC - Steering Column Switch
5DF4: DSC - Battery Voltage too low (open circuit)
5E19: DSC - Engine manegement interface
E2D6: Kilomter reading faulty
9CB5: FRM - Battery exhausted
9C6C: switch centrer console 12v
A559: Instrument cluster power supply switched off
278C: DME - alternator
2B26: DME - Throttle-valve monitoring, Bank 2
2B5C: DME - Throttle-valves fault status, Bank 2
27BB: DME - Fuel system, Lamba/charge, Bank 2
A0C1: CAS - Output (terminal 50)

The battery codes make me think battery going haywire but checked voltage everything looks good while car is off (12.3) and charging while on (14.2).

The throttle actuator codes make me consider those going out, but nothing I read says anything about people having their car repeatedly die immediately after cranking it over with throttle actuator issues. Any insight would be great. Going to clear codes to start and see what comes back.


PFA
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I think when throttle bodies go out it's code is P2101/2102 for banks 1 and 2. The symptoms also don't sound right. Did it go in limp mode?

Update: washed
I need LCI tails. Getting m performance spoiler installed next week. Maybe will do front splitters and delete the reflectors
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HGreen335 wrote
Well I tried to drive her to work as I've been having issues with my 335 daily. Drove about a mile and started getting crazy lurching and bucking car running like a tractor, CEL.

Pull to a shopping center, turn it off and it will crank up fine, stumble and die. Crank again starts, stumbles for 1 second, dies again. Rinse and repeat 4 more times. Pull the negative terminal and sit for 15 minutes, reattach and it starts up fine and I get it home.

Codes showing on my schwaben scanner are:

9520: DSC - Steering Column Switch
5DF4: DSC - Battery Voltage too low (open circuit)
5E19: DSC - Engine manegement interface
E2D6: Kilomter reading faulty
9CB5: FRM - Battery exhausted
9C6C: switch centrer console 12v
A559: Instrument cluster power supply switched off
278C: DME - alternator
2B26: DME - Throttle-valve monitoring, Bank 2
2B5C: DME - Throttle-valves fault status, Bank 2
27BB: DME - Fuel system, Lamba/charge, Bank 2
A0C1: CAS - Output (terminal 50)

The battery codes make me think battery going haywire but checked voltage everything looks good while car is off (12.3) and charging while on (14.2).

The throttle actuator codes make me consider those going out, but nothing I read says anything about people having their car repeatedly die immediately after cranking it over with throttle actuator issues. Any insight would be great. Going to clear codes to start and see what comes back.


PFA
When my throttle actuator went, I had some bizarre codes, even replaced my battery before narrowing it down to an actuator. Mine is a DCT and even threw a code for the shifter and wouldn't let me out of park, was very frustrating, but not a single issue since replacing with Mpower TAs.
Went to the Tail of the Dragon again this year, and then purposely got lost on the roads around it for a couple of days. I think I need to buy a house there.

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HGreen335 wrote
Well I tried to drive her to work as I've been having issues with my 335 daily. Drove about a mile and started getting crazy lurching and bucking car running like a tractor, CEL.

Pull to a shopping center, turn it off and it will crank up fine, stumble and die. Crank again starts, stumbles for 1 second, dies again. Rinse and repeat 4 more times. Pull the negative terminal and sit for 15 minutes, reattach and it starts up fine and I get it home.

Codes showing on my schwaben scanner are:

9520: DSC - Steering Column Switch
5DF4: DSC - Battery Voltage too low (open circuit)
5E19: DSC - Engine manegement interface
E2D6: Kilomter reading faulty
9CB5: FRM - Battery exhausted
9C6C: switch centrer console 12v
A559: Instrument cluster power supply switched off
278C: DME - alternator
2B26: DME - Throttle-valve monitoring, Bank 2
2B5C: DME - Throttle-valves fault status, Bank 2
27BB: DME - Fuel system, Lamba/charge, Bank 2
A0C1: CAS - Output (terminal 50)

The battery codes make me think battery going haywire but checked voltage everything looks good while car is off (12.3) and charging while on (14.2).

The throttle actuator codes make me consider those going out, but nothing I read says anything about people having their car repeatedly die immediately after cranking it over with throttle actuator issues. Any insight would be great. Going to clear codes to start and see what comes back.


PFA
How old is the battery and was it properly coded and registered? 12.3 is close to being too low. Let it sit over night or for a couple days and measure it again. Go over your grounds and make sure they are secure. Have all the recalls been done including the fuse box related one?
HGreen335 wrote
Well I tried to drive her to work as I've been having issues with my 335 daily. Drove about a mile and started getting crazy lurching and bucking car running like a tractor, CEL.

Pull to a shopping center, turn it off and it will crank up fine, stumble and die. Crank again starts, stumbles for 1 second, dies again. Rinse and repeat 4 more times. Pull the negative terminal and sit for 15 minutes, reattach and it starts up fine and I get it home.

Codes showing on my schwaben scanner are:

9520: DSC - Steering Column Switch
5DF4: DSC - Battery Voltage too low (open circuit)
5E19: DSC - Engine manegement interface
E2D6: Kilomter reading faulty
9CB5: FRM - Battery exhausted
9C6C: switch centrer console 12v
A559: Instrument cluster power supply switched off
278C: DME - alternator
2B26: DME - Throttle-valve monitoring, Bank 2
2B5C: DME - Throttle-valves fault status, Bank 2
27BB: DME - Fuel system, Lamba/charge, Bank 2
A0C1: CAS - Output (terminal 50)

The battery codes make me think battery going haywire but checked voltage everything looks good while car is off (12.3) and charging while on (14.2).

The throttle actuator codes make me consider those going out, but nothing I read says anything about people having their car repeatedly die immediately after cranking it over with throttle actuator issues. Any insight would be great. Going to clear codes to start and see what comes back.


PFA
I'd bet on the quote below. TAs don't behave equally in all cases of problems.

Have you ever replaced them?

The battery-related codes might have to do with the negative disconnection for 15 minutes you made.

powerbait wrote
When my throttle actuator went, I had some bizarre codes, even replaced my battery before narrowing it down to an actuator. Mine is a DCT and even threw a code for the shifter and wouldn't let me out of park, was very frustrating, but not a single issue since replacing with Mpower TAs.
Yesterday was a long day in the M and it illustrated how perfectly balanced and versatile these cars are. I left home in Walnut Creek with my son around 9am for breakfast at Alice's Restaurant in Woodside, CA, about an hour away. It's a remote diner on a fun road at the southern end of the SF peninsula, and the lot is always full of interesting cars. Yesterday there were a handful of Porsches (992 TTS, GT4RS, 2x GT4, a 964), BMWs (E46M, E92M, 3x M2C), etc.

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We then drove down to San Gregorio and Half Moon Bay to enjoy more roads and scenery.

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Then we circled through SF on the way home to meet slcook54's user avatarslcook54 and his daughter for an early dinner. It was my first time taking this car into the city, and I have to admit it handled the urban roads and hills quite well. I wouldn't want to daily the car in the city, but it wasn't awful.

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I think we drove about 170 miles and did everything from mountain twisties to SF hills. Really incredible how versatile the Ohlins are, and how well these cars conquer everything while providing the fun and sensation that they do.

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