my ss2 e90 manual

New injectors was a big improvement to my throttle response. Before during my cold starts, the revs would hang after I let off the throttle and be very delayed. It was not synced properly from my engine to foot. Now it’s very responsive and accurate when cold and a lot of improved precision with the throttle response and rev matching throughout the whole rev range.

Erickuokwa wrote

New injectors was a big improvement to my throttle response. Before during my cold starts, the revs would hang after I let off the throttle and be very delayed. It was not synced properly from my engine to foot. Now it’s very responsive and accurate when cold and a lot of improved precision with the throttle response and rev matching throughout the whole rev range.

Yeah I remember doing them on my c63 and m3, both made such a big difference and mileage was low too!

End of the year engine bay wash, brake, and engine oil changes. Feeling blessed to have my daily cars to be able to keep the m3 still at 135k Happy holidays!

Brand spanking new 275/35 falken 615k+ & 18x10 +25 enkei nt03 for my baby

feels great to be on some light weight wheels and some meaty 200tw again 🥩

At 20 lbs a wheel!!! they unfortunately do not allow much brake clearance though. Could not clear the f chassis m sport brakes.

man really love your car as well as the progress and write-ups

Z33KLF wrote

man really love your car as well as the progress and write-ups

Thanks man!! I appreciate it & hope to see your car around as well

137k miles

Bmw windshield and seals: pilkington bmw stamped all the way around 🔒 feels nice having no rock pitting and cracks. Never experienced that since I purchased it

That windshield replacement makes a world of a difference.
Eric, I recommend you get the front windshield Exoshield'd.

It's PPF designed for the front windshield...it's a necessary step to preserve your now new glass.

reidetailing wrote

That windshield replacement makes a world of a difference.
Eric, I recommend you get the front windshield Exoshield'd.

It's PPF designed for the front windshield...it's a necessary step to preserve your now new glass.

That’s a good idea! I’ll definitely check it out

138000 mile or 222000 km oil change 👍 trying motul 8100 10w60 out vs liquimoly 10w60

Drifter2090 wrote

Yeah I remember doing them on my c63 and m3, both made such a big difference and mileage was low too!

probably run some liquid moly fuel system cleaner first then change injectors not a bad idea

finally crossed over 140000 miles today testing my new AP 9668 front brakes best upgrade in a while - along with an Akra x pipe, gt4 lip, volk 21a wheels 🤣

Love these significant lightweight mods that ever so slightly improve my steering response. The braking force is unreal I can not believe they only get better when up to temperature 😮‍💨

Big mainty: 141000 miles

Thermostat, water pump, clutch, flywheel, slave cylinder, all possible seals, and an autosolutions 21.5% reduction shifter

If you are working on the floor like me I used a scissor jack and wood to tilt the engine

Buy the oem rear main seal because it comes with the green fitting tool that makes installing it a breeze. And don’t forget the drei bond for all you oem heads a long 16mm socket seats the selector rod seal perfectly. That was the only seal that was obviously leaking & brittle at my milage. The rest were ok but I replaced since I was there.

Good post there about your clutch job and more. It is clear you take your car work and documentation seriously.

I've been on Facebook looking for the torque spec for the pressure plate bolts and I think I have it figured out. You've helped me there as well.

It looks like you just went through this, so I'm curious if you can describe the process for installing the loose clutch disc, the pressure plate, and releasing the pressure plate. Like, how does that all work and what is the order of operations? This is the first OEM/LUK twin disc and self-adjusting-clutch I've ever dealt with...

Also, see the plug in your picture below the starter snout and above the rear main seal?
I'm kind of curious if there is an o-ring there that I should replace while I have the flywheel off. I'm going to check RealOEM to see...

Edit: Yah, looks like an aluminum crush-washer/o-ring with part number 07119963252. Might as well I figure. Similar torque spec as the transmission fluid strainer I'd imagine.

I've not seen many people use Motul RBF 660 brake fluid, but maybe I'm in different circles.
I would suggest you consider Castrrol SRF next time (or maybe Torque RT700 if that is more your speed).
Read on: https://www.sr20-forum.com/brakes-and-suspension/!72709-brake-fluid-recommendation.html?post_id=994375#post!994375

Dusted off my oem chromies that have been in the box since 2017. Am I getting older and liking unmodified cars or do I just like the chrome that matches the wheels

Erickuokwa wrote

Dusted off my oem chromies that have been in the box since 2017. Am I getting older and liking unmodified cars or do I just like the chrome that matches the wheels

I'm in both camps this year. I'm getting rid of my black rear spoiler for a paint-matched item and swapping the black kidneys on both of my cars to chrome.

Erickuokwa wrote

Dusted off my oem chromies that have been in the box since 2017. Am I getting older and liking unmodified cars or do I just like the chrome that matches the wheels

chrome grilles, orange reflectors, no lips/diffusers is the way

Installed cmp engineering tie rod and lower arm shims to help improve bump steer and roll center for lowered cars

Will update how they feel

Wow! The cmp shims helped tremendously! The best I can explain it, after 80mph, big bumps and drop offs of uneven road do not unsettle and drop the front end as much. It easily feels like I gained more suspension travel. Great great reverse engineering scanning the cone seat and adding a perfect shim to correct lowered cars

Ever since my stolen mag blues, my new to me 18” te37sl 9.5+22 10.5+20
I honestly been loving the stagger wide rears to stabilize the car. Matches my driving style a lot better

Erickuokwa wrote

Wow! The cmp shims helped tremendously! The best I can explain it, after 80mph, big bumps and drop offs of uneven road do not unsettle and drop the front end as much. It easily feels like I gained more suspension travel. Great great reverse engineering scanning the cone seat and adding a perfect shim to correct lowered cars

Ever since my stolen mag blues, my new to me 18” te37sl 9.5+22 10.5+20 as well. I honestly been loving the stagger wide rears to stabilize the car. Matches my driving style a lot better

Car looks mint. Those 'Pressed' color TE's really do look the best on these. Aggressive yet still classy.

Never heard of these shims but curious to try them out myself. In my Subaru days the bump steer and roll center kits were mandatory when lowering a car, and I had wondered why it was never mentioned on this platform. I'm guessing ride quality in general wasn't affected much by this, if at all?