8 yrs, 105k miles in and first Limp mode. Help!

2012 DCT 127k miles. Original TA. Rod bearing replaced with new oil pan around 5k miles ago after striking something in the road. Limp mode today while cruising around 80 mph in 7th. Following codes pulled by Carly.

005E19-DSC
002B57-Emergency Engine Management
002773 lamda sensor before Kat Bank 2
002771- " " " Kat bank 1
002B15-throttle controller monitoring bank 1
00A733 Dc-DC converter

I'm guessing TA, and would probably replace both if that's the case at this mileage. Any help is much appreciated.
-Nick

Throttle actuators. Replace both.

Replace the one that's bad. Send the bad one out for repair. Keep it on hand for when the 2nd goes. I'm not sure why folks recommend just replacing an item that is in parallel for no reason. I guess it's the thinking that "you're already there" but it's an easy DIY. Sure if you have the funds burning a hole in your pocket I guess buy both. I have a 2011 with 240,000 and my bank 1 TA went out a while back. Replaced it and the original remaining one is still going strong. I'm sitting on my rebuilt one for when I need it, wash and repeat.

Scrippy wrote

Replace the one that's bad. Send the bad one out for repair. Keep it on hand for when the 2nd goes. I'm not sure why folks recommend just replacing an item that is in parallel for no reason. I guess it's the thinking that "you're already there" but it's an easy DIY. Sure if you have the funds burning a hole in your pocket I guess buy both. I have a 2011 with 240,000 and my bank 1 TA went out a while back. Replaced it and the original remaining one is still going strong. I'm sitting on my rebuilt one for when I need it, wash and repeat.

I was thinking that after looking at the DIY, despite my statement I would likely replace both. From my codes, I believe it's the passenger side bank. Correct?

nick3753 wrote

Scrippy wrote

Replace the one that's bad. Send the bad one out for repair. Keep it on hand for when the 2nd goes. I'm not sure why folks recommend just replacing an item that is in parallel for no reason. I guess it's the thinking that "you're already there" but it's an easy DIY. Sure if you have the funds burning a hole in your pocket I guess buy both. I have a 2011 with 240,000 and my bank 1 TA went out a while back. Replaced it and the original remaining one is still going strong. I'm sitting on my rebuilt one for when I need it, wash and repeat.

I was thinking that after looking at the DIY, despite my statement I would likely replace both. From my codes, I believe it's the passenger side bank. Correct?

They're front and back mounted in the center of the V under the plenum. Unplug some stuff patiently and replace. Loosen the engine harness bolts so you can move it and that's all. Once you've done it moving forward you'll be like…"I wish a TA would". Like most things it will take you 4 hours the first time and like an hour anytime after that if necessary.

My advice is when you're in there replace both. Worst case if one has been replaced previously you can sell a newer part to someone else.

Scrippy wrote

nick3753 wrote

Scrippy wrote

Replace the one that's bad. Send the bad one out for repair. Keep it on hand for when the 2nd goes. I'm not sure why folks recommend just replacing an item that is in parallel for no reason. I guess it's the thinking that "you're already there" but it's an easy DIY. Sure if you have the funds burning a hole in your pocket I guess buy both. I have a 2011 with 240,000 and my bank 1 TA went out a while back. Replaced it and the original remaining one is still going strong. I'm sitting on my rebuilt one for when I need it, wash and repeat.

I was thinking that after looking at the DIY, despite my statement I would likely replace both. From my codes, I believe it's the passenger side bank. Correct?

They're front and back mounted in the center of the V under the plenum. Unplug some stuff patiently and replace. Loosen the engine harness bolts so you can move it and that's all. Once you've done it moving forward you'll be like…"I wish a TA would". Like most things it will take you 4 hours the first time and like an hour anytime after that if necessary.

Yes, the DIY doesn't look difficult. I've done the plugs before. My question is, which one is bad. From the codes above , it looks like bank 1, which is the actuator on the passenger side (or front actuator), adjacent to the oil cap and oil filter. Sorry to sound dense. I'm just looking for confirmation. Thanks for the help and advice.

Scrippy wrote

Replace the one that's bad. Send the bad one out for repair. Keep it on hand for when the 2nd goes. I'm not sure why folks recommend just replacing an item that is in parallel for no reason. I guess it's the thinking that "you're already there" but it's an easy DIY. Sure if you have the funds burning a hole in your pocket I guess buy both. I have a 2011 with 240,000 and my bank 1 TA went out a while back. Replaced it and the original remaining one is still going strong. I'm sitting on my rebuilt one for when I need it, wash and repeat.

The logic behind replacing both is for a few reasons

• You are already there
• The other one will most likely fail sooner rather than later
• You don't want it failing on you in a situation where its not easy to rapidly fix. Example, are not close to home, on a roadtrip etc.

Being cheap here is asking for problems later. Do it once, do it right.

FCP FTW and free lifetime replacements.

Forum Member BOOF-M3 also sells lifetime warranty T.A.s
https://rebuild-usa.com/
AND see the M3Post thread below:
https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1888151

drwankel wrote

Scrippy wrote

Replace the one that's bad. Send the bad one out for repair. Keep it on hand for when the 2nd goes. I'm not sure why folks recommend just replacing an item that is in parallel for no reason. I guess it's the thinking that "you're already there" but it's an easy DIY. Sure if you have the funds burning a hole in your pocket I guess buy both. I have a 2011 with 240,000 and my bank 1 TA went out a while back. Replaced it and the original remaining one is still going strong. I'm sitting on my rebuilt one for when I need it, wash and repeat.

The logic behind replacing both is for a few reasons

• You are already there
• The other one will most likely fail sooner rather than later
• You don't want it failing on you in a situation where its not easy to rapidly fix. Example, are not close to home, on a roadtrip etc.

Being cheap here is asking for problems later. Do it once, do it right.

I gotcha but I only agree with point #1. It is annoying to get to the same repair later. My bank 1 went out around 150,000 miles and here I am at 240,000 miles and bank 2 is original still. So it is not a fact that the other goes out. Call me cheap but why replace something that works because I can't manage my fears and anxieties?

nick3753 wrote

Scrippy wrote

nick3753 wrote

Scrippy wrote

Replace the one that's bad. Send the bad one out for repair. Keep it on hand for when the 2nd goes. I'm not sure why folks recommend just replacing an item that is in parallel for no reason. I guess it's the thinking that "you're already there" but it's an easy DIY. Sure if you have the funds burning a hole in your pocket I guess buy both. I have a 2011 with 240,000 and my bank 1 TA went out a while back. Replaced it and the original remaining one is still going strong. I'm sitting on my rebuilt one for when I need it, wash and repeat.

I was thinking that after looking at the DIY, despite my statement I would likely replace both. From my codes, I believe it's the passenger side bank. Correct?

They're front and back mounted in the center of the V under the plenum. Unplug some stuff patiently and replace. Loosen the engine harness bolts so you can move it and that's all. Once you've done it moving forward you'll be like…"I wish a TA would". Like most things it will take you 4 hours the first time and like an hour anytime after that if necessary.

Yes, the DIY doesn't look difficult. I've done the plugs before. My question is, which one is bad. From the codes above , it looks like bank 1, which is the actuator on the passenger side (or front actuator), adjacent to the oil cap and oil filter. Sorry to sound dense. I'm just looking for confirmation. Thanks for the help and advice.

They're the same part so you can't mess up. Yes if it's bank 1 (passenger side) you will see the linkage that goes to the appropriate TA. There is a physical link arm that goes from TA to the butterfly control rail. But yes it's the rear TA fyi.

DrFerry wrote

Forum Member BOOF-M3 also sells lifetime warranty T.A.s
https://rebuild-usa.com/
AND see the M3Post thread below:
https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1888151

Damn, wish I had gotten to this post earlier. I contacted M Power Motorsports this am and he didn't have any so ordered from FCP euro with next day shipping as the car is my daily and need it this weekend. I'm in metro Detroit too.