In the end I unscrewed the bracket holding the pipe so that the pipe is not fixed and can move upwards. Then I wrapped it with some foam and now it's resting on the undertray. Is it safe to use in this manner?
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In the end I unscrewed the bracket holding the pipe so that the pipe is not fixed and can move upwards. Then I wrapped it with some foam and now it's resting on the undertray. Is it safe to use in this manner?
Redd wroteIt will probably be OK with the foam there, but I'd recommend adjusting the pipe for non-contact. The downward angle of that pipe looks steeper than most we see here, so I suspect it has been bent downward over the years to the point that it would contact an undertray. The pipes can easily be bent to clear.deansbimmerIn the end I unscrewed the bracket holding the pipe so that the pipe is not fixed and can move upwards. Then I wrapped it with some foam and now it's resting on the undertray. Is it safe to use in this manner?
It appears as if you're also missing the oil cooler duct, part number 51718040950. I'd get that installed as that makes a huge difference in how the oil is cooled.
Thanks for the heads up on the missing duct. I was wondering why the tray rubber seal didn't mate up to the oil cooler.
On bending the PS pipe, I tried to bend it by hand using as much force as I dared. I think the pipe is stainless cos it is really hard, and I'm not sure if it's stock or not. Is it safe to use a bar for leverage to bend a stainless pipe?
On bending the PS pipe, I tried to bend it by hand using as much force as I dared. I think the pipe is stainless cos it is really hard, and I'm not sure if it's stock or not. Is it safe to use a bar for leverage to bend a stainless pipe?
Does this work with active autowerke supercharged cars?
Redd wrotePower steering hose has leaked at the joint between the hard and soft hose. So, yeah, don't do like I did. Lol.deansbimmer i just installed the undertray. For the life of me I could not push the PS hard pipe high enough to clear the tray. I used as much strength as I dared and it would not bend.
In the end I unscrewed the bracket holding the pipe so that the pipe is not fixed and can move upwards. Then I wrapped it with some foam and now it's resting on the undertray. Is it safe to use in this manner?
I'm getting custom hoses done up to clear the tray.
Hi
deansbimmer - Just picked up a E93 today and the undertray is hanging on by a thread (or two LOL). Wanted to place an order but looks like this is on back-order? Any estimate on when more will be available?
Redd wroteThe pipes are not stainless. They're a simple steel and only zinc plated after bending for anti-corrosion protection. They're quite malleable and not susceptible to damage by twisting the amount needed to clear the undertray. Many don't need to be bent at all. We simply insert a pry bar between the U bend of the end of the pipe and twist up. It's a 5 second fix with no repercussions.On bending the PS pipe, I tried to bend it by hand using as much force as I dared. I think the pipe is stainless cos it is really hard, and I'm not sure if it's stock or not. Is it safe to use a bar for leverage to bend a stainless pipe?
We've not had any returned with reports of incompatibility. Some may require adjustment of intercooler pumps depending on how low they were mounted.Does this work with active autowerke supercharged cars?
We just received them back from coating. Orders are being processed now. Orders placed on our site now will be processed in order of receipt. Once orders are caught up we will adjust inventory on the product page.Any estimate on when more will be available?
Thanks! Just placed an order for 1. Excited to have this on!
Finally installed my shield today & i love it. Quality piece with great instruction all the hardware you’ll need & zero issues on the install. Word is it pairs well with the HARROP which is coming soon! Thanks again Dean.
Just installed mine today. I too had to bend the power steering pipe. Couldn't get it to move by hand. Had to use a pry bar.
Was kind of surprised how much pressure is put on the bottom of the oil cooler and duct, but i suppose that is necessary to get a good seal.
Was kind of surprised how much pressure is put on the bottom of the oil cooler and duct, but i suppose that is necessary to get a good seal.
drwankel wroteNice, mine should be here this week. Perhaps tomorrow with the other half of my quickjacks. How much did you need to move the ps pipe for clearance?Just installed mine today. I too had to bend the power steering pipe. Couldn't get it to move by hand. Had to use a pry bar.
Was kind of surprised how much pressure is put on the bottom of the oil cooler and duct, but i suppose that is necessary to get a good seal.
spammysammich wroteIt was like an inch or so. It didnt really feel like it was moving much when I used the pry bar, but I put the undertray back in after a few attempts and had clearance.Nice, mine should be here this week. Perhaps tomorrow with the other half of my quickjacks. How much did you need to move the ps pipe for clearance?
I'm also slightly confused if the seals on the undertray are supposed to make contact on the bottom of the oil cooler and duct, or on the back of it.
I suspect its the bottom where contact is supposed to be made, but other pictures have me doubting it.
Just called mporium and confirmed the seals are supposed to make contact on the bottom- so looks like its all good.
Awfully confused why nearly every picture here is seemingly not doing that.
Awfully confused why nearly every picture here is seemingly not doing that.
Does anybody else have issues with the wheel wells not flush in the bottom corner due to it having nothing to bolt to?
What did you do to solve it?
What did you do to solve it?
drwankel wroteIf you're referring to the fender liner, there are locations for securing, there should be no gap when installed correctly. The beauty of the design allows the installer to add as many screw locations as needed. The installer will have ultimate say over the quality of fitment. Differences and variations from car to car will also determine how much the installer will have to work to get all areas to line up well. Cars that have had no undertray for some time and have settled may even need the bumper removed and repositioned. The tray must be slid up into the bumper sufficiently, and the bumper corners pulled up flush against the edge of the undertray corner. The undertray shouldn't extend back past the bumper cover edge. See below of how the fender liner should fit at the corner.Does anybody else have issues with the wheel wells not flush in the bottom corner due to it having nothing to bolt to?
What did you do to solve it?
drwankel wroteYeah, mine is the same way. I originally was unhappy about having a gap; but I've left it as-is. Now, I don't really pay any attention to it.Does anybody else have issues with the wheel wells not flush in the bottom corner due to it having nothing to bolt to?
What did you do to solve it?
I'm at work right now but can send pictures this evening when I'm home if you want them.
Yes, the finder liner is what I am referring to.
In the stock setup, the bit circled in red connects to the undertray which keeps the fender liner flush.
Without this attachment point, it wants to bow out a little bit. The aluminum L piece that the fender liner bolts to, does not extend out this far, so there's no provision to attach this bottom corner to anything, hence the bowing. The instructions say that this attachment point is unused.
I am missing the plugs there, so I need to go fix that real quick, but getting that bit to actually attach to something would make it sit flush.
In the stock setup, the bit circled in red connects to the undertray which keeps the fender liner flush.
Without this attachment point, it wants to bow out a little bit. The aluminum L piece that the fender liner bolts to, does not extend out this far, so there's no provision to attach this bottom corner to anything, hence the bowing. The instructions say that this attachment point is unused.
I am missing the plugs there, so I need to go fix that real quick, but getting that bit to actually attach to something would make it sit flush.
Actually, looking at it again- You've got 3 bolts on the L bracket, and if I had a 3rd one where you've added yours, it will allow it to sit flush, so that is probably the answer here.
In my photo above, there is no screw that far outboard in the fender liner, and its sitting flush. Utilize the vertical lip of the bumper cover. When you adjust everything to keep the fender liner forward of that lip, the fender liner is retained with no screws necessary. This is how we install them here in our shop.
The L bracket may be notched in the undertray if you need it to move forward more so that the fender liner is retained forward of the edge of the bumper cover. Add as many screws as you like. The deteriorated condition of some aging fender liners may require more work.
The L bracket may be notched in the undertray if you need it to move forward more so that the fender liner is retained forward of the edge of the bumper cover. Add as many screws as you like. The deteriorated condition of some aging fender liners may require more work.
Mine went on without much drama when I bent the PS lines up a little. I had the same concerns as drwankel but the fit improved enough when I pushed the L brackets as far inward as the slots allowed and tightened everything down. I'm not too worried about not having that corner fully secured anymore.
deansbimmer wroteYeah needs some adjusting to get the corners to line up nicely with the bumper edges but it can be done.If you're referring to the fender liner, there are locations for securing, there should be no gap when installed correctly. The beauty of the design allows the installer to add as many screw locations as needed. The installer will have ultimate say over the quality of fitment. Differences and variations from car to car will also determine how much the installer will have to work to get all areas to line up well. Cars that have had no undertray for some time and have settled may even need the bumper removed and repositioned. The tray must be slid up into the bumper sufficiently, and the bumper corners pulled up flush against the edge of the undertray corner. The undertray shouldn't extend back past the bumper cover edge. See below of how the fender liner should fit at the corner.
Any updates on shipping/stock? I ordered it last week hoping to get it by xmas and the shipping info was updated and was set to be delivered yesterday, but I checked again today and it's just pending and haven't shipped yet?