Front Uprights update

tlrid3r wrote

italyix wrote

tlrid3r wrote

Lienrocs wrote

tlrid3r wrote

Lienrocs wrote

Second update for all you DIYer's. When you go to install the hubs make sure you have a very thin wall socket. I'm using a sonic 18 mm and I can't tighten down the lower two bolts. Just a heads up.

thanks for the update, I got an email from Strom mentioning your find with the threaded caliper mount. thank you for the leg work on that part.

which two lower bolts are you talking about? To mount the hub bearing?


thanks

No problem!

Correct. The lower two bolts to mount the upright to the bearing. I may just have some thick tools but just wanted to give everyone a heads up so they can plan accordingly.

Just installed one side. I'll install the driver side another day. Install was a easy and straight forward. I didn't have issues with the 2 lower bolts. Mainly because I had upgraded to ARP bolts and it uses a 12 point m14 socket. I did have issue with my brake cooling duct. Clearly it was made for OEM upright. So modifications was necessary.

Which bolts did you upgrade? Can you share a link to arp website? Ty!

I replace the hub bearing every year since I mainly track my car and it's a maintenance item for me. So the oem bolts are one time use. With ARP they can be reused since the strength is much higher and better fastener. so worth it.

here is a link. direct replacement and exact size, but 12 point head to make it easy to install.
https://arp-bolts.com/kits/arpkit-detail-b.php?RecordID=3050

That's a great idea. I'm a little mad I didn't think of that before install the hubs. But I got a pretty sweet new socket out of it so you win some and lose some.

Here are some more pictures for comparison

tlrid3r wrote

italyix wrote

tlrid3r wrote

Lienrocs wrote

tlrid3r wrote

Lienrocs wrote

Second update for all you DIYer's. When you go to install the hubs make sure you have a very thin wall socket. I'm using a sonic 18 mm and I can't tighten down the lower two bolts. Just a heads up.

thanks for the update, I got an email from Strom mentioning your find with the threaded caliper mount. thank you for the leg work on that part.

which two lower bolts are you talking about? To mount the hub bearing?


thanks

No problem!

Correct. The lower two bolts to mount the upright to the bearing. I may just have some thick tools but just wanted to give everyone a heads up so they can plan accordingly.

Just installed one side. I'll install the driver side another day. Install was a easy and straight forward. I didn't have issues with the 2 lower bolts. Mainly because I had upgraded to ARP bolts and it uses a 12 point m14 socket. I did have issue with my brake cooling duct. Clearly it was made for OEM upright. So modifications was necessary.

Which bolts did you upgrade? Can you share a link to arp website? Ty!

I replace the hub bearing every year since I mainly track my car and it's a maintenance item for me. So the oem bolts are one time use. With ARP they can be reused since the strength is much higher and better fastener. so worth it.

here is a link. direct replacement and exact size, but 12 point head to make it easy to install.
https://arp-bolts.com/kits/arpkit-detail-b.php?RecordID=3050

Great idea. Sucks I just spent 68 bucks on new OEM bolts.

Do you use any threadlock on the ARP bolts?

I am using 12.9 socket hex bolts for my F80-Core4 hubs which I had difficulties lining up the 6 point hex key.

These ARP 12 points are great for that location. I wish I knew about this option. I never knew such a thing even exist.

Thanks for sharing
.

Move Over wrote

tlrid3r wrote

italyix wrote

tlrid3r wrote

Lienrocs wrote

tlrid3r wrote

thanks for the update, I got an email from Strom mentioning your find with the threaded caliper mount. thank you for the leg work on that part.

which two lower bolts are you talking about? To mount the hub bearing?


thanks

No problem!

Correct. The lower two bolts to mount the upright to the bearing. I may just have some thick tools but just wanted to give everyone a heads up so they can plan accordingly.

Just installed one side. I'll install the driver side another day. Install was a easy and straight forward. I didn't have issues with the 2 lower bolts. Mainly because I had upgraded to ARP bolts and it uses a 12 point m14 socket. I did have issue with my brake cooling duct. Clearly it was made for OEM upright. So modifications was necessary.

Which bolts did you upgrade? Can you share a link to arp website? Ty!

I replace the hub bearing every year since I mainly track my car and it's a maintenance item for me. So the oem bolts are one time use. With ARP they can be reused since the strength is much higher and better fastener. so worth it.

here is a link. direct replacement and exact size, but 12 point head to make it easy to install.
https://arp-bolts.com/kits/arpkit-detail-b.php?RecordID=3050

Great idea. Sucks I just spent 68 bucks on new OEM bolts.

Do you use any threadlock on the ARP bolts?

Yeah I apply a little blue thread lock and oem torque. Never hurts.

Another FYI (though it's a pretty niche problem), if you're trying to use these knuckles with SPL tie rod ends and 18 inch E88's you can't without swapping out some hardware on the TRE's. There's contact.

Lienrocs wrote

Another FYI (though it's a pretty niche problem), if you're trying to use these knuckles with SPL tie rod ends and 18 inch E88's you can't without swapping out some hardware on the TRE's. There's contact.

Another member mentioned issues with fitment up front with one of his sets of wheels as well.

I would just grind the head of the bolt down on that corner by a mm to clearance it and you should be fine. If not I'll take the uprights off your hands

tsk94 wrote

Lienrocs wrote

Another FYI (though it's a pretty niche problem), if you're trying to use these knuckles with SPL tie rod ends and 18 inch E88's you can't without swapping out some hardware on the TRE's. There's contact.

Another member mentioned issues with fitment up front with one of his sets of wheels as well.

I would just grind the head of the bolt down on that corner by a mm to clearance it and you should be fine. If not I'll take the uprights off your hands

I just snagged some different hardware. Problem solved.

I've got another set sitting on the shelf I'll sell you.

Lienrocs wrote

Another FYI (though it's a pretty niche problem), if you're trying to use these knuckles with SPL tie rod ends and 18 inch E88's you can't without swapping out some hardware on the TRE's. There's contact.

Highly not recommend to use the SPL bump steer kit. That's another 30mm of offset. You will reintroduce bump steer on the positive side.

If you really want to use it, you will have to machine down the offset spacer

tlrid3r wrote

Lienrocs wrote

Another FYI (though it's a pretty niche problem), if you're trying to use these knuckles with SPL tie rod ends and 18 inch E88's you can't without swapping out some hardware on the TRE's. There's contact.

Highly not recommend to use the SPL bump steer kit. That's another 30mm of offset. You will reintroduce bump steer on the positive side.

If you really want to use it, you will have to machine down the offset spacer

The 30mm is if you use all the bump steer spacers. If you don't use any of the spacers then everything is within 1mm of stock. I'm just using the SPL stuff, effectively at this point, to get rid of all the rubber bushings.

Some of the above is incorrect.

From my understanding, and correct me if I'm wrong,

The Strom upright has 30mm of correction

The SPL arms can have a total of 1/2" of washers for correction, so approx 13mm.

The SPL arms can be used without the washers, and then there is no correction, so that would be the proper setup with the Strom upright, assuming 30mm correction is what you need.

Would be great if we knew exactly how much correction is needed for a given amount of lowering. Shouldn't be too difficult by removing the coil spring, and measuring the change as the upright is moved throughout its range. Or, an engineer with the measurements can model it for us!

cwlo wrote

Some of the above is incorrect.

From my understanding, and correct me if I'm wrong,

The Strom upright has 30mm of correction

The SPL arms can have a total of 1/2" of washers for correction, so approx 13mm.

The SPL arms can be used without the washers, and then there is no correction, so that would be the proper setup with the Strom upright, assuming 30mm correction is what you need.

Would be great if we knew exactly how much correction is needed for a given amount of lowering. Shouldn't be too difficult by removing the coil spring, and measuring the change as the upright is moved throughout its range. Or, an engineer with the measurements can model it for us!

I'm not debating Strom corrections of 30mm vs spl correction of 13mm, or whatever the numbers may be. My point is using the spl arms with zero spacers is effectively like using oe parts as far as dimensions go (to the best of my knowledge that is).

Second update: if you have E88's, Strom knuckles and SPL TRE's the TRE will contact the barrel of the wheel so you either need to get different wheels, Oem TRE's or file down the edge of your shiny SPL part.

(My wheels are 18 by 10.5 et 18 for reference. I think a narrower E88 may not have an issue but don't quote me on that.)

cwlo wrote

Some of the above is incorrect.

From my understanding, and correct me if I'm wrong,

The Strom upright has 30mm of correction

The SPL arms can have a total of 1/2" of washers for correction, so approx 13mm.

The SPL arms can be used without the washers, and then there is no correction, so that would be the proper setup with the Strom upright, assuming 30mm correction is what you need.

Would be great if we knew exactly how much correction is needed for a given amount of lowering. Shouldn't be too difficult by removing the coil spring, and measuring the change as the upright is moved throughout its range. Or, an engineer with the measurements can model it for us!

SPL with 2 washers = 6~7mm, not 13mm

maicol76 wrote

cwlo wrote

Some of the above is incorrect.

From my understanding, and correct me if I'm wrong,

The Strom upright has 30mm of correction

The SPL arms can have a total of 1/2" of washers for correction, so approx 13mm.

The SPL arms can be used without the washers, and then there is no correction, so that would be the proper setup with the Strom upright, assuming 30mm correction is what you need.

Would be great if we knew exactly how much correction is needed for a given amount of lowering. Shouldn't be too difficult by removing the coil spring, and measuring the change as the upright is moved throughout its range. Or, an engineer with the measurements can model it for us!

SPL with 2 washers = 6~7mm, not 13mm

Depends on how old your SPL stuff is, mine has two small and one large washer, which I will have to measure when I put the car back on the rack.

Move Over wrote

maicol76 wrote

cwlo wrote

Some of the above is incorrect.

From my understanding, and correct me if I'm wrong,

The Strom upright has 30mm of correction

The SPL arms can have a total of 1/2" of washers for correction, so approx 13mm.

The SPL arms can be used without the washers, and then there is no correction, so that would be the proper setup with the Strom upright, assuming 30mm correction is what you need.

Would be great if we knew exactly how much correction is needed for a given amount of lowering. Shouldn't be too difficult by removing the coil spring, and measuring the change as the upright is moved throughout its range. Or, an engineer with the measurements can model it for us!

SPL with 2 washers = 6~7mm, not 13mm

Depends on how old your SPL stuff is, mine has two small and one large washer, which I will have to measure when I put the car back on the rack.

The spl TRE's come with one 1/4 inch spacers and two 1/8 inch spacers. So 12.7mm of potential adjustment.

I do know the older version was less bulky but I think they sent with the same spacers as the newer, beefier version so I think regardless of newer or older you will have the same relative height of the spacer stack.

Finally got around to testing the uprights and getting an impression. I went out to Laguna Seca where previously my best lap was 1:39.8. I started the with the same shock damping as prior and I struggle with rear grip. The car felt it had less rear grip. Maybe the front was just hooking up more. Right in the morning I ran 1:39.2.
Through out the track day I played with shock damping to tune out some of the oversteer. I couldn't add more rear camber which was suggested by Strom. But I got the car to feel a little more hooked in the rear but didn't result in a faster lap. I got consistent 1:39~ but 1:39.2 was my best. I ran all stock component and removed my SPL bump steer kit.
My overall goal with the upright wasn't lap time but better tire wear. This was achieved well. The overall tire wear was improved. Laguna is hard on tires, destroys the outer shoulder. I didn't have any damage to the shoulder other than normal wear. At this rate I think I'll be able to save one tires set per year. If so It will pay off the upright cost in 4 years. Overall worth it, in my opinion.

tlrid3r wrote

Finally got around to testing the uprights and getting an impression. I went out to Laguna Seca where previously my best lap was 1:39.8. I started the with the same shock damping as prior and I struggle with rear grip. The car felt it had less rear grip. Maybe the front was just hooking up more. Right in the morning I ran 1:39.2.
Through out the track day I played with shock damping to tune out some of the oversteer. I couldn't add more rear camber which was suggested by Strom. But I got the car to feel a little more hooked in the rear but didn't result in a faster lap. I got consistent 1:39~ but 1:39.2 was my best. I ran all stock component and removed my SPL bump steer kit.
My overall goal with the upright wasn't lap time but better tire wear. This was achieved well. The overall tire wear was improved. Laguna is hard on tires, destroys the outer shoulder. I didn't have any damage to the shoulder other than normal wear. At this rate I think I'll be able to save one tires set per year. If so It will pay off the upright cost in 4 years. Overall worth it, in my opinion.

If you're seeking the SPL bump steer, I'm interested.

DRLane wrote

tlrid3r wrote

Finally got around to testing the uprights and getting an impression. I went out to Laguna Seca where previously my best lap was 1:39.8. I started the with the same shock damping as prior and I struggle with rear grip. The car felt it had less rear grip. Maybe the front was just hooking up more. Right in the morning I ran 1:39.2.
Through out the track day I played with shock damping to tune out some of the oversteer. I couldn't add more rear camber which was suggested by Strom. But I got the car to feel a little more hooked in the rear but didn't result in a faster lap. I got consistent 1:39~ but 1:39.2 was my best. I ran all stock component and removed my SPL bump steer kit.
My overall goal with the upright wasn't lap time but better tire wear. This was achieved well. The overall tire wear was improved. Laguna is hard on tires, destroys the outer shoulder. I didn't have any damage to the shoulder other than normal wear. At this rate I think I'll be able to save one tires set per year. If so It will pay off the upright cost in 4 years. Overall worth it, in my opinion.

If you're seeking the SPL bump steer, I'm interested.

Not selling thanks for the inquiry

Mighty use it later.

Anyone here that's replaced their uprights with these storm units have the stock ones they'd be willing to sell? I need a set of stock M3 front spindles/uprights for a different project. If anyone has a pair they sell me for a decent price let me know!

Edit: Got some, thanks!

tsk94 wrote

Anyone here that's replaced their uprights with these storm units have the stock ones they'd be willing to sell? I need a set of stock M3 front spindles/uprights for a different project. If anyone has a pair they sell me for a decent price let me know!

Pmed

To all Strom Upright track cars. Have you struggle to gain grip, what setting are you using and what is the handling dynamics.

Alignment?
Front Camber: -3.2 (maxed out) need to maybe change out camber plate.
Front Toe: 0
Front Spring Rate: 600lbs

My car Understeers a lot, totally plows the corner.
any one have a different result?

please share.