DIY Carplay/Android Auto Carsara Install and Setup Tips

Andy_2424 wrote

Really? Would this be something I need to play around in the firmware then?

When I press up it goes to the next track and down plays the previous track, but I’ve gotten used to the BMW way of down is next track and up is previous.

I don't know what you mean by playing around in the firmware. Assume if you bought your unit in the last few months we're all on basically the same revision and the software settings are not accessible for this.

What car are you in? I see E90 in your description but is it an M3 with CIC? I think someone in the other thread reported this kind of an issue but they were in a CIC retrofit and it seemed like something pinned out differently from the 2008 car.

Cyberdemon wrote

Andy_2424 wrote

Really? Would this be something I need to play around in the firmware then?

When I press up it goes to the next track and down plays the previous track, but I’ve gotten used to the BMW way of down is next track and up is previous.

I don't know what you mean by playing around in the firmware. Assume if you bought your unit in the last few months we're all on basically the same revision and the software settings are not accessible for this.

What car are you in? I see E90 in your description but is it an M3 with CIC? I think someone in the other thread reported this kind of an issue but they were in a CIC retrofit and it seemed like something pinned out differently from the 2008 car.

I've got a 2013 e93 M3 that came with CIC from the factory and I have the same behavior (steering wheel track skip button function reversed when in CarPlay). I just got used to it but if there is a setting that can make it the same as the native bmw system, then I'd be interested to find out as well.

bighindu79 wrote

I've got a 2013 e93 M3 that came with CIC from the factory and I have the same behavior (steering wheel track skip button function reversed when in CarPlay). I just got used to it but if there is a setting that can make it the same as the native bmw system, then I'd be interested to find out as well.

Are your jumpers on 3/4/7 or just 3/4?

Wonder if that 7th jumper somehow impacts this since I've seen people using both configurations.

Could contact the seller on that one - could be a difference in software versions maybe.

Cyberdemon wrote

Are your jumpers on 3/4/7 or just 3/4?

Wonder if that 7th jumper somehow impacts this since I've seen people using both configurations.

Could contact the seller on that one - could be a difference in software versions maybe.

Mine is actually and E91 MY2012 with a 6.5” screen, but this was the only place I found good information about the Carsara box.

It’s connected to headunit CAN A - B and jumpers 4 and 7 are set.

Cyberdemon wrote

bighindu79 wrote

I've got a 2013 e93 M3 that came with CIC from the factory and I have the same behavior (steering wheel track skip button function reversed when in CarPlay). I just got used to it but if there is a setting that can make it the same as the native bmw system, then I'd be interested to find out as well.

Are your jumpers on 3/4/7 or just 3/4?

Wonder if that 7th jumper somehow impacts this since I've seen people using both configurations.

Could contact the seller on that one - could be a difference in software versions maybe.

I have 3,4 set to ON as described in the carsara instructions for my model year and screen size (8.8 inch)

bighindu79 wrote

I have 3,4 set to ON as described in the carsara instructions for my model year and screen size (8.8 inch)

So maybe not jumper related.
What firmware are you on?

Mine is:
SDK 25.0.0.5.6.0.0.0
Cust Version v3.1.0.2.gpe.c.hl
MCU 20.9.29.13
HW Version BMW_CICHL

Andy_2424 wrote

So maybe not jumper related.
What firmware are you on?

Mine is:
SDK 25.0.0.5.6.0.0.0
Cust Version v3.1.0.2.gpe.c.hl
MCU 20.9.29.13
HW Version BMW_CICHL

My firmware

Finally got my cable in from the seller.. everything worked first go thankfully. I already noticed a few things noted lately keeping in mind I’ve done no changes. The music quality seems good through the quad lock but I feel like I need to crank the volume. I noticed a hum in the audio signal when a song is just starting etc. Siri and maps are much louder. Moving from songs seemed to require a double tap of my up or down arrows on the wheel.

How do you get out of the phone display and into the box settings?

e92335drew wrote

Finally got my cable in from the seller.. everything worked first go thankfully. I already noticed a few things noted lately keeping in mind I’ve done no changes. The music quality seems good through the quad lock but I feel like I need to crank the volume. I noticed a hum in the audio signal when a song is just starting etc. Siri and maps are much louder. Moving from songs seemed to require a double tap of my up or down arrows on the wheel.

How do you get out of the phone display and into the box settings?

Go to the CarPlay main menu and the BMW icon will bring you back to the carsara homepage.

If opting to use AUX, will a higher quality cable enhance audio quality?

smokinjoe64 wrote

If opting to use AUX, will a higher quality cable enhance audio quality?

The cable is not easily replaceable it is part of the CarPlay box wiring harness. Coding and using the quad lock is the preferred solution.

Did anyone put in a front camera? Mine worked for a couple min but stopped for some reason. Am I suppose to connect the ground wire too? (I didn’t have to for my last kremer)

So is it better to turn up the AUX volume in the idrive or to turn up the Carsara volume? I figured I would match the volume to the radio but not sure which I should turn up to retain the best sound quality.

akkando wrote

So is it better to turn up the AUX volume in the idrive or to turn up the Carsara volume? I figured I would match the volume to the radio but not sure which I should turn up to retain the best sound quality.

I set the BMW aux to 50%, I think I left the carsara at 13 or whatever the default was then just adjust from there and I haven't had any obvious issues with the audio quality.

Cyberdemon wrote

akkando wrote

So is it better to turn up the AUX volume in the idrive or to turn up the Carsara volume? I figured I would match the volume to the radio but not sure which I should turn up to retain the best sound quality.

I set the BMW aux to 50%, I think I left the carsara at 13 or whatever the default was then just adjust from there and I haven't had any obvious issues with the audio quality.

So you adjusted the Carsara volume from 13 to whatever you felt was the correct volume for you?

I just installed the Andreas version last night in my e90. I’m having bad screen flicker issues. It seems to flicker randomly and will also randomly jump back to the Idrive screen and exit the CarPlay screen. I tried disconnecting and reconnecting the LVDS connectors but that didn’t do anything. Anyone else experience this? I’ve reached out to Andream today but still waiting to hear.

Has anyone dealt with electronic error messages after the install? Now that I've reinstalled my dash and reconnected the hazard switch, I was hoping that it would clear. However, it seems to stick in protool after clearing out my codes.

KOMBI - Cluster
E107 Raw Error: CAN BUS OFF

e92335drew wrote

Has anyone dealt with electronic error messages after the install? Now that I've reinstalled my dash and reconnected the hazard switch, I was hoping that it would clear. However, it seems to stick in protool after clearing out my codes.

KOMBI - Cluster
E107 Raw Error: CAN BUS OFF

Are you using the iDrive cable to connect the controller?

Any obvious components not working correctly? If it's a Canbus error then I would question if there are any issues with the quadlock connection or iDrive connection.

My only worry with this unit compared to the Bimmertech is compatibility with future iPhones and softwares... Thoughts ?

Cyberdemon wrote

Are you using the iDrive cable to connect the controller?

Any obvious components not working correctly? If it's a Canbus error then I would question if there are any issues with the quadlock connection or iDrive connection.

No I went without the iDrive cable connection as it was pointed out not needed. Did my first drive as the cars been parked as I'm working from home with the covid situation. Everything seems to work just fine, iDrive works fine etc... I just get this error on the iDrive and a couple lights on the dash from it.

wahooooman wrote

My only worry with this unit compared to the Bimmertech is compatibility with future iPhones and softwares... Thoughts ?

Bimmertech doesn't write their own software. Everyone is buying this from some Chinese ODM who is building these boxes on the same GPLink Architecture.

Carplay itself is an interface spec defined by Apple. Because the phone is easier to update than the millions of cars on the road, it would probably take a rather substantial change for Apple/Google to modify that interface and "Require" an update on the car side. I certainly wouldn't say thats impossible, but for $200 you are likely to get 4+ years of usage out of this thing before Apple comes up with "Carplay 2" and some fancy new Ultra HDR 3D interface that requires them to redo it and break backwards compatibility.

Long story short - I certainly wouldn't spend $400+ more just because you think you'll have some forward compatibility.

e92335drew wrote

No I went without the iDrive cable connection as it was pointed out not needed. Did my first drive as the cars been parked as I'm working from home with the covid situation. Everything seems to work just fine, iDrive works fine etc... I just get this error on the iDrive and a couple lights on the dash from it.

If it's lighting up errors I would investigate it then. This could be due to a wire that got pinched or damaged when squeezing everything back together, a bad connection somewhere in the harness, or something else.

If you wanted to rule it out I'd consider first just loosening the CIC and checking for any squashed or torn cables.

If that doesn't clear the codes, disconnect the Carplay box and plug everything (without completely reassembling/screwing back in) back into the CIC. I had to do this a few weeks back when chasing my own error codes and as long as you mark which cable went where, you don't actually have to remove the box and it doesn't take very long.

If the codes clear when the Carsara is disconnected then you may need to try to rule out a faulty harness or damaged wire.