Actuators

Hi,
I hear about some possible renovation of throttle actuators. Somebody tell me there is a possibility to once yearly put a drop of oil on the axes w gears inside the actuators. That should enlarge lifetime of them. My M3 has now 60k miles, so actuators can die very soon and of course I'm not happy w replacement of both of them for 3k usd. Of course there are some gear kits for 100us, but you can't be sure if they will works.

Just get rebuilt units from Rebuild in the UK: https://www.rebuild.org.uk/
Nowhere near $3K and the job isn't that difficult to DIY.

Every piece of evidence about extending the life of the actuators seems to be mostly anecdotal at this rate. Assuming a normal mileage and ownership period, 1 set of actuators would likely last you the entire time you own the car. Rather than tearing the top of the engine apart just to stick a drop of lube I'd just wait until they need it and then get an aftermarket rebuilt unit for a few hundred dollars.

Since the part is generally sealed I don't see adding lubrication being a solution long term. If anything tearing the units apart over and over may introduce new issues.

They shouldn't be 3k USD. I got mine from Bimmerworld and they were 1k usd new, and they are made by the OEM that makes them for BMW.

I agree the $3k is a crazy price, but it’s probably what you pay if you take your car to a dealership.

New Continental VDO are about $600 each and identical to BMW. Rebuilt units from MPower in the US or Rebuild in the UK are about $350 each. I have seen the Continental VDO for closer to $500 before.

In the time it would take to remove them, open them up, oil them, and put them back, you could replace them. Unless you have time to kill, are looking for a project, and want to do an experiment, don’t bother. If you insist, change the gears while you are in there. Some think that may help since the gears do wear over time.

Some also think the problem is external and that you can just lube the throttle linkages periodically. Maybe with a long tube and good aim you could do that without having to pull the plenum?

pbonsalb wrote

I agree the $3k is a crazy price, but it’s probably what you pay if you take your car to a dealership.

New Continental VDO are about $600 each and identical to BMW. Rebuilt units from MPower in the US or Rebuild in the UK are about $350 each. I have seen the Continental VDO for closer to $500 before.

In the time it would take to remove them, open them up, oil them, and put them back, you could replace them. Unless you have time to kill, are looking for a project, and want to do an experiment, don’t bother. If you insist, change the gears while you are in there. Some think that may help since the gears do wear over time.

Some also think the problem is external and that you can just lube the throttle linkages periodically. Maybe with a long tube and good aim you could do that without having to pull the plenum?

Last thing I would want to do is try to squirt WD40 through a little red hose entirely over the top of the engine.

If you wanted to drop a little oil on the linkages I suppose it couldn't hurt if you're already in there for a spark plug change or something else, but the entire weight of the throttle assembly seems like it would create far more friction than any dirt on the linkage connection. Again maybe would extend the life but by how much? By that definition dirt or oil buildup inside the throttle bodies probably creates more resistance than anything else.

ok, thanks. Unfortunately at Europe the parts are more expensive. But this VDO version can be there between 700-900 usd and OEM near to 1.200 us.

This VDO works well, same as OEM? I mean is necessary there to reset something, program it or is it only plug and play?

Lucas CR wrote

ok, thanks. Unfortunately at Europe the parts are more expensive. But this VDO version can be there between 700-900 usd and OEM near to 1.200 us.

This VDO works well, same as OEM? I mean is necessary there to reset something, program it or is it only plug and play?

The VDO is the exact same part made by the actual equipment manufacturer.

Like others posted if costs are a concern you can get a rebuilt kit. The two posted were between 450gbp and 450usd but you'd have to figure out which is cheapest for duty and shipping.

$700 w/ tax OE new from ECS. They currently have a new one listed in the cosmetic dent/ding for $500. Since you don't see it and it's new why not?

Check out M Motors Sport remanufacture TAs. Great price/service and lifetime warranty. I just had my original TAs replaced with their.

nice video, thanks. Anyway, as discussed, in case of usage a new VDO, is necessary there to reset something, program it or is it only plug and play?

Lucas CR wrote

nice video, thanks. Anyway, as discussed, in case of usage a new VDO, is necessary there to reset something, program it or is it only plug and play?

Nope. Install new Throttle Actuator, reconnect all the electrical connectors, reinstall the plenum, etc. and start the car. If you have old trouble codes, you may need to clear those, but otherwise, it is plug and play.

I just installed a rebuilt TA from MPower/Rebuild UK a few weeks ago and it is running great. Also comes with lifetime warranty. Lots of great testimonials for them:
https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1510324

i replaced both my actuators from mpowermotorsports.org
came out to $720 after i sent back my cores.
hopefully never have to worry about replacing these ever again as they are rebuilt to outlive the car, and if i do, they have lifetime warranty. no need to buy new oem ones that are 2x the price and might go out again!

Yep rebuild were fantastic and life time warranty. I would only do this option, best value by miles

Lucas CR wrote

ok, thanks. Unfortunately at Europe the parts are more expensive. But this VDO version can be there between 700-900 usd and OEM near to 1.200 us.

This VDO works well, same as OEM? I mean is necessary there to reset something, program it or is it only plug and play?

Get in contact with Rebuilt.UK (https://www.rebuild.org.uk/) and call it a day mate. Got mine shipped (over night to Sweden!), £450 + £30 freight. Placed deposit to give me some time to change (daily driver), repaid again over night when they received my old TA's.

These guys change gear to a better compotise material as well as sensitive electronics like the drivers, where after offer life time warranty. Tried to have a shop to do the job but got tired with their fiddling around and did it myself. Not a huge task.
But, you don't need to do anything at all until you get the fail codes.

fail codes? you mean errors at diagnostic? If they appear, what I have to do? ...just to delete them and thats all?

Lucas CR wrote

fail codes? you mean errors at diagnostic? If they appear, what I have to do? ...just to delete them and thats all?

When the TA gears start to get worn you'll get a code and limp mode. Goes away when shutting of. One can typically drive around with it but eventually it goes in limp mode often enought to force replacement.
Loads on this subject if you take 5min and search around bud.

clear, thanks, I found some link there about TA, very old. Well I read that, but stilll something isnt clear for me. If TA gears start to get worn you'll get a code and limp mode. If codes goes away when shutting of, the TA arent totally broken yet, right? I mean if you can start engine and not to be in limp mode, so then some cleaning as video shows is still possible or you need already replace the gears inside?

Lucas CR wrote

clear, thanks, I found some link there about TA, very old. Well I read that, but stilll something isnt clear for me. If TA gears start to get worn you'll get a code and limp mode. If codes goes away when shutting of, the TA arent totally broken yet, right? I mean if you can start engine and not to be in limp mode, so then some cleaning as video shows is still possible or you need already replace the gears inside?

I think what happens is that once the gears develop some play in them, the motors and electronics go haywire trying to keep the throttle in the right position, and they can get fried. So the plastic gear causes the problem in the first place but once they go bad it's not just the gear but the electronics that also have to be replaced. I'm not an expert, but that seems to be the case from what some people have said. Your experience may be different