2.3KVIEWS
14REPLIES
15APPRECIATES
04-11-2018LAST POST
Hey guys, so I’m finally in the position to purchase my dream car. I’ve been avidly refreshing Craigslist and numerous other sites in search of an E90 or E92 M3. I’m looking for a 08/09 DCT with (preferably) 80k or less miles. My budget is roughly 25k. I’ve done hours upon hours of research on this M3 in hopes of knowing what I’m getting myself into. I apologize if this thread is overplayed, I’m just hoping to get some feedback/advice more perdinent to my own situation.

So I’ve seen some ‘horror’ stories regarding ‘common’ issues, such as rod bearing failure, throttle actuators, dct lag, idler air valve, etc... and honestly it’s terrifying to me as someone who is not mechanically inclined and really does not know what to look for specifically. This will be my second time purchasing a car on my own and if it comes down to it, first time purchasing from a dealer. I have nobody with the know-how that can accompany me or advise me. My current car is a 1999 323i e46 which I bought extremely cheap considering it needed a new transmission. That worked out for the most part initially, but now unfortunately it’s just one problem after the other, the car is no where near worth dumping any more money into it. But yes, I am aware that this a sports car, and it is going to cost a heap more on insurance/gas /maintenance/repair. I’ve set aside a financial cushion and have what I believe to be the income to upkeep the vehicle. I’m trying to avoid the repair scenario though.

So I guess my questions to you guys are: (P.S I live in Oregon if it makes any difference)

1. Is there anything specific I should be listening/looking out for? Common noises, feelings, visual, responses that should raise an immediate red flag? Even subtle. Should I be checking for oddities in fluids, suspension, dct, etc? Like I said I am not mechanically inclined so I really don’t know what to look for. I drive an old 3-series so knocks, noises, poor handling and weird feelings tend to be the norm for me, I’m afraid anything better than this would seem like perfection where as it could mean catastrophe for the M3.

2. Would an extended warranty be worth it? If I’d even be able to get one considering the age/mileage.

3. I’m unfamiliar on how dealership purchases work (I should do more research on this) but do dealerships typically have a “grace” period in which I will have a certain amount of time post or pre purchase to get the car fully inspected by BMW?

4. Given the M3 will most likely be in the 80k mile range, are there certain things I can expect to be replacing at this point in the cars life? Are there certain things that should have already been done to it that I should be aware of? Or what about the differences in years (2008/2009) would one be more “reliable” than the other?

5. Any other advice/guidance? I am really lacking confidence doing this on my own. and will take any advice given. I just really want this to work out and desperately don’t want to end up with a lost cause.

I apologize if that is a lot to answer, honestly I’ve already researched all of this and more, it was a whole lot of information to process and various threads/websites I dug through. I’m really hoping this will generate a single reference for me (or anyone in my shoes) to look back on. Most of the things I’ve read have gone in one ear and out the other unfortunately. A lot of it wasn’t specific to my situation either, which made it harder to discern things.

And sorry if this comes off more as a “Teach me how to buy a car” thread, I’d post on a general vehicle purchasing forum if it weren’t an M3, I’d just really like to hear from those of you who know the ins and outs of this vehicle or have been through the same thing. I really appreciate it, thank you.
Excellent first post. You have nothing to apologize for. Keep reading the forums, look for members who appear to be similar to you in thought and look for those who you would like to model your car after and read up on their threads/posts for ideas on maintenance and modding. roastbeef's user avatarroastbeef has an excellent thread on how he has maintained his car. Read it and learn If you expect to keep her running strong for many years to come.

Theodore's user avatarTheodore has an excellent thread specifically for future owners like yourself. Read this immediately as I have posted it below.

For New Owners - What I wish I knew when I first bought my E9X M3: https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1418410

Guys like UPSROD's user avatarUPSROD and jiggz's user avatarjiggz are really helpful when it comes to finding cars that fit the bill for new buyers. I'm sure they will see this thread and have some pointers. Welcome to the M3 family.
Stugger wrote
Hey guys, so I’m finally in the position to purchase my dream car. I’ve been avidly refreshing Craigslist and numerous other sites in search of an E90 or E92 M3. I’m looking for a 08/09 DCT with (preferably) 80k or less miles. My budget is roughly 25k. I’ve done hours upon hours of research on this M3 in hopes of knowing what I’m getting myself into. I apologize if this thread is overplayed, I’m just hoping to get some feedback/advice more perdinent to my own situation.

So I’ve seen some ‘horror’ stories regarding ‘common’ issues, such as rod bearing failure, throttle actuators, dct lag, idler air valve, etc... and honestly it’s terrifying to me as someone who is not mechanically inclined and really does not know what to look for specifically. This will be my second time purchasing a car on my own and if it comes down to it, first time purchasing from a dealer. I have nobody with the know-how that can accompany me or advise me. My current car is a 1999 323i e46 which I bought extremely cheap considering it needed a new transmission. That worked out for the most part initially, but now unfortunately it’s just one problem after the other, the car is no where near worth dumping any more money into it. But yes, I am aware that this a sports car, and it is going to cost a heap more on insurance/gas /maintenance/repair. I’ve set aside a financial cushion and have what I believe to be the income to upkeep the vehicle. I’m trying to avoid the repair scenario though.

So I guess my questions to you guys are: (P.S I live in Oregon if it makes any difference)

1. Is there anything specific I should be listening/looking out for? Common noises, feelings, visual, responses that should raise an immediate red flag? Even subtle. Should I be checking for oddities in fluids, suspension, dct, etc? Like I said I am not mechanically inclined so I really don’t know what to look for. I drive an old 3-series so knocks, noises, poor handling and weird feelings tend to be the norm for me, I’m afraid anything better than this would seem like perfection where as it could mean catastrophe for the M3.

If you're unsure what to look for have a pre purchase inspection done by a reputable shop that specializes in these kinds of cars. Shouldn't be more than $200.

2. Would an extended warranty be worth it? If I’d even be able to get one considering the age/mileage.

If you're not mechanically inclined I'd say so but it depends on previous maintenance and you're willingness to learn how to work on it. These cars aren't as bad as everyone thinks and there's plenty of very well documented DIYs on here.

3. I’m unfamiliar on how dealership purchases work (I should do more research on this) but do dealerships typically have a “grace” period in which I will have a certain amount of time post or pre purchase to get the car fully inspected by BMW?

It depends on the dealer for the grace period. Any decent dealer would let you get a PPI done as mentioned before. (Before you buy it)

4. Given the M3 will most likely be in the 80k mile range, are there certain things I can expect to be replacing at this point in the cars life? Are there certain things that should have already been done to it that I should be aware of? Or what about the differences in years (2008/2009) would one be more “reliable” than the other?

Pretty much anything rubber will be at the end of its life, throttle actuators go around this time, stock suspension will most likely be worn and of course rod bearings. LCI for the E90 happened in 2009 so you get the LED tail lights and for the E92 didn't happen until 2011. All E90/92 had the old idrive in 2008 that imo is awful.

5. Any other advice/guidance? I am really lacking confidence doing this on my own. and will take any advice given. I just really want this to work out and desperately don’t want to end up with a lost cause.

Don't overthink it and if it feels wrong it probably is.

I apologize if that is a lot to answer, honestly I’ve already researched all of this and more, it was a whole lot of information to process and various threads/websites I dug through. I’m really hoping this will generate a single reference for me (or anyone in my shoes) to look back on. Most of the things I’ve read have gone in one ear and out the other unfortunately. A lot of it wasn’t specific to my situation either, which made it harder to discern things.

And sorry if this comes off more as a “Teach me how to buy a car” thread, I’d post on a general vehicle purchasing forum if it weren’t an M3, I’d just really like to hear from those of you who know the ins and outs of this vehicle or have been through the same thing. I really appreciate it, thank you.
Answered beneath questions.
Yes that thread is awesome. OP you said it yourself, you’ve read up about all the potential issues with this car so you have an understanding what to look for. Find a local BMW indy and Always have a ppi (pre purchase inspection) done, it will not detect the major stuff like bearings but it will at least inform you about the basic stuff like brakes, tires, leaks, damaged subframe, some places might even do compression tests. What’s also great about having a ppi done is the shop will give you an honest answer if they would buy the car or not, I had one looked at which had rear subframe damaged that wasn’t noted until I had a ppi done. Warranties will be costly because of the age and mileage so get prices, take the vin to a local BMW dealer an they can print out any service records if the car was serviced at a BMW dealer. All you can do is find out as much as you can about that specific car man you never really know what’ll happen. Order a blackstone test (research that) so you can test copper levels if you do buy the car. Good luck
I say do everything you can to get some warranty (even if just for 20k miles through 100k) although don't pay more than like $0.15/mi. Alternatively do the rod bearings immediately - might actually be better overall going that route at higher mileage cars anyway.

Post in regional Northwest forum and I bet you could connect with someone who knows these cars. If I were local to you (I'm in Seattle sorry) I would go see cars with you if you wanted help. Having someone who knows the ins/outs of these M3s is very helpful. These cars have a lot of unique stuff to pay attention to.
BOOF-M3 wrote
Excellent first post. You have nothing to apologize for. Keep reading the forums, look for members who appear to be similar to you in thought and look for those who you would like to model your car after and read up on their threads/posts for ideas on maintenance and modding. roastbeef's user avatarroastbeef has an excellent thread on how he has maintained his car. Read it and learn If you expect to keep her running strong for many years to come.

Theodore's user avatarTheodore has an excellent thread specifically for future owners like yourself. Read this immediately as I have posted it below.

For New Owners - What I wish I knew when I first bought my E9X M3: https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1418410

Guys like UPSROD's user avatarUPSROD and jiggz's user avatarjiggz are really helpful when it comes to finding cars that fit the bill for new buyers. I'm sure they will see this thread and have some pointers. Welcome to the M3 family.
Warpig12354 wrote
Answered beneath questions.
///Mbitions wrote
Yes that thread is awesome. OP you said it yourself, you’ve read up about all the potential issues with this car so you have an understanding what to look for. Find a local BMW indy and Always have a ppi (pre purchase inspection) done, it will not detect the major stuff like bearings but it will at least inform you about the basic stuff like brakes, tires, leaks, damaged subframe, some places might even do compression tests. What’s also great about having a ppi done is the shop will give you an honest answer if they would buy the car or not, I had one looked at which had rear subframe damaged that wasn’t noted until I had a ppi done. Warranties will be costly because of the age and mileage so get prices, take the vin to a local BMW dealer an they can print out any service records if the car was serviced at a BMW dealer. All you can do is find out as much as you can about that specific car man you never really know what’ll happen. Order a blackstone test (research that) so you can test copper levels if you do buy the car. Good luck
roastbeef wrote
Awesome references and feedback guys, thank you for taking the time!
Transfer wrote
I say do everything you can to get some warranty (even if just for 20k miles through 100k) although don't pay more than like $0.15/mi. Alternatively do the rod bearings immediately - might actually be better overall going that route at higher mileage cars anyway.

Post in regional Northwest forum and I bet you could connect with someone who knows these cars. If I were local to you (I'm in Seattle sorry) I would go see cars with you if you wanted help. Having someone who knows the ins/outs of these M3s is very helpful. These cars have a lot of unique stuff to pay attention to.
I’m actually looking more towards that area, as I can’t seem to find anything around here! I wouldn’t want to put you out, but if that’s something you’d be willing to do, I couldn’t even express my gratitude! A 20k warranty would seem reasonable, as I don’t plan on doing more than 12k/year considering the gas (I’ve got a commuter for that) would you say that’d be a better route to go than dropping the money on the rod bearings?

But really, thanks guys. Sorry if any other questions/statements I have repetitive. I like crossing my t’s and dotting my i’s haha.

So what I’m seeing is rod bearings is most likely going to be the biggest concern here? How much does that typically cost? From what I’m seeing is roughly a 4K job. Would it be worth holding out and waiting for a vehicle that’s already had them done, I’ve seen one a few weeks ago that was within my budget, but it wasn’t the color I wanted. I’m thinking I’m going to have to look past color now, what’s the use of a pretty painted car if she’s got a blown engine? Lol. As far as the other maintenance that warpig mentioned (Stock suspension/actuators) would that be a big concern in initial purchase? As in if those go bad would it be catastrophic such as a rod bearing? Or are those mostly one of those “Fix it when you break it” deals? I would really love to keep purchase/initial repairs/preventative maintenance to a minimal if possible, but of course I also want to do things right!

Being able to do the work myself would be great, I’m not mechanically inclined, but I’m fairly handy given a video or a well-written guide with pictures, I did most the simple work on my current 323i (Although maybe that’s it keeps having more and more issues LOL) I just figured an m3 would be a whole nother beast, like going from working on a Honda to a BMW. If it’s as “simple” as some make it seem, I’m all for cutting costs!

Once again, many thanks.
Stugger wrote
1. Is there anything specific I should be listening/looking out for? Common noises, feelings, visual, responses that should raise an immediate red flag? Even subtle. Should I be checking for oddities in fluids, suspension, dct, etc? Like I said I am not mechanically inclined so I really don’t know what to look for. I drive an old 3-series so knocks, noises, poor handling and weird feelings tend to be the norm for me, I’m afraid anything better than this would seem like perfection where as it could mean catastrophe for the M3.

2. Would an extended warranty be worth it? If I’d even be able to get one considering the age/mileage.

3. I’m unfamiliar on how dealership purchases work (I should do more research on this) but do dealerships typically have a “grace” period in which I will have a certain amount of time post or pre purchase to get the car fully inspected by BMW?

4. Given the M3 will most likely be in the 80k mile range, are there certain things I can expect to be replacing at this point in the cars life? Are there certain things that should have already been done to it that I should be aware of? Or what about the differences in years (2008/2009) would one be more “reliable” than the other?

5. Any other advice/guidance? I am really lacking confidence doing this on my own. and will take any advice given. I just really want this to work out and desperately don’t want to end up with a lost cause.

I apologize if that is a lot to answer, honestly I’ve already researched all of this and more, it was a whole lot of information to process and various threads/websites I dug through. I’m really hoping this will generate a single reference for me (or anyone in my shoes) to look back on. Most of the things I’ve read have gone in one ear and out the other unfortunately. A lot of it wasn’t specific to my situation either, which made it harder to discern things.
Welcome to the forum! And hopefully soon the the ///M world

1) Nothing specific to hear here. M cars make lots of noises, so just drive it and if it drives fine it's probably ok.

2) The most common (~1%) catastrophic failure on these cars is rod bearings. I replaced those even though my 2013 was still under warranty.
The other stuff (throttle actuators, idle control valve, fuel breather valve) don't worry me at all, as they are not catastrophic and part of regular maintenance of any car.

3) Get your car inspected before buying it. I would do this in a good Indy (bimmershops.com I think has a list). In the case of the E9X M3, the only thing I really want to know is whether it's been in a major accident and repaired correctly. A body shop will take 10 seconds to tell you that.
The E9X is so reliable that unless it explodes in your drive home/before you change rod bearings you are likely set.

I have zero interest in a car that 'had their rbs done' as they likely used the wrong ones or just lie about it altogether. It's 2.5/3k at regular shops including materials.


4) No differences in reliability throughout model years.
At those miles I would replace, as soon as possible after purchase:
-Rod Bearings for BE Bearings + BE-ARP bolts. Here I'll also replace engine mounts which are likely split in two at this point
-Suspension: strut/shock/spring replacement for the Bilstein B12 kit. I've had that on 4 cars so far, +200k miles combined and I think people waste their time 'thinking' about what suspension to buy for street and occasional track use
-Fluids: oil/coolant/brake fluid/diff fluid/6MT fluid (if 6MT, leave alone if DCT)
-Filters: oil filter, cabin air filter, engine filter
-Spark plugs
Just doing the rod bearings is probably all you really need to do to prevent the odd big (HUGE) ticket problem so warranty doesn't always make sense and can be overly expensive. You do have to understand that maintenance is pricey if you're paying shops and cars bearing 100k miles may be up to speed or may need some work.

Oil changes run about $200-230, spark plugs $300-800, diff flush $100-300, etc. Brakes are spendy, tires spendy... anyway just be ready all around.

If you find a car in Seattle that you might want to buy, send me a PM and I could probably look at it for you. Agree that a PPI with an indy is a good idea.
Aside from the things you have already mentioned: RBs, throttle actuators, a/c evaporator, those are the biggies and the most common. Other than that, the platform is a pretty solid beast!

As previously mentioned, get a PPI and just do a through inspection of the car. If it looks like it was beat to hell, not taken care of, or something just seems off, pass on it.

Be realistic with your budget and realize that absolutely nothing is cheap on this car. Oil changes will run you $200+.

At 80k miles, I would def get the RBs done. More than likely the throttle actuators have already been replaced, so you will probably be good there.

Aside from that, enjoy the car, love the car and drive the piss out of it... just make sure its properly warmed up.
OP, I'd sell you mine but I think it's quite a bit out of your price range. I'm also in Oregon. 2013 Alpine White E92, 47k, moonroof, competition, premium and cold Pkg also rod bearings done 3 months ago. Let me know if you want to work with spending more for a newer condition E92.
I've always wondered, wouldn't it suck if you bought a "high mileage" E9X M3 and the RB had ALREADY been replaced, but the owner didn't pass along those records? And then you pay $2,500 to have it done AGAIN!

Oil/filter changes, cabin air filter, air filter and rear diff fluid changes are all real easy DIY especially if you have access to a lift. I let my BMW service dept do a brake fluid flush for $150, since I didn't trust myself doing that.
You might buy an older higher mileage example of the the $65k car used for $20-25k. It’s a lot of car for the money. But you should understand the maintenance costs are on a $65k car and that the car is older and higher mileage, where things need attention. It probably won’t all happen at once, but you might need $1000 worth of brakes, $1000 worth of throttle actuators, a $350 front bumper under tray, some suspension mounts and bushings, all fluids changed, maybe an AC condenser, maybe shocks and struts, maybe a battery, maybe an alternator, maybe valve cover gaskets, maybe ignition coils, etc. Just understand this $20-25k purchase will be nowhere near as cheap over time as a $20-25k purchase of a late model Honda or Toyota.

Great cars for DIYers. I personally would do the rod bearings to reduce the possibility, albeit small, of a catastrophic motor failure. I did mine in 2014 when my extended warranty expired.