E92 M3 ZCP in SCCA Solo F Street

I love my conti sports but the PS4S is a mile ahead of the Conti Sport in the dry and a bit ahead in the wet, accoridng to TR's testing. The Conti is a little more forgiving at the limit, supposedly

that gap you observed from conti to the Bridgestones is the same as the gap from the Stone to the Hoosier on some cars...

RE71R is the trackable street rain tire I'd pick. The PS4S and Conti won't be faster unless it's a real deluge

Richbot wrote

that gap you observed from conti to the Bridgestones is the same as the gap from the Stone to the Hoosier on some cars...

I guess that's about what I'd expect considering how small small the gap has gotten between Hoosiers and the current crop of 200TW tires - especially with the RE-71Rs being widely considered the best of the 200TWs in most applications.

dabootski wrote

I guess that's about what I'd expect considering how small small the gap has gotten between Hoosiers and the current crop of 200TW tires - especially with the RE-71Rs being widely considered the best of the 200TWs in most applications.

The RE71R which I tested back to back (in dry) was FASTER than the Toyo RR and closer to R7 in performance than RR being closer to R7. Wasnt sure how it would pan in the rain but it appears that may be the ticket. I'd love to run the PS4 but they dont have 225/45/17 for the FRS.

Cheers guys!!!

Lutfy

macdude357 wrote

I just picked up a couple of the left over Apex PS7 wheels in 19x11 et25 and I'm trying something similar but with the Toyo R888R. 275/18 fronts and 295/19 rears. First time out will be 1/20 at Buttonwillow. I'm hoping the extra width will help with the oversteer I get in fast corners like Riverside and maybe give me a little more grip coming out of corners as well. The car will likely want to understeer on slower corners but I can deal with that with a little throttle lift/trail braking near the apex.

So I got the tires mounted but they rub too much right now. I'll have to see what I can do about it before taking them to the track. So the experiment is on hold for now.

An ET32 would be ideal but that's not a cheap fix, what's hitting stuff?

macdude357 wrote

I just picked up a couple of the left over Apex PS7 wheels in 19x11 et25 and I'm trying something similar but with the Toyo R888R. 275/18 fronts and 295/19 rears. First time out will be 1/20 at Buttonwillow. I'm hoping the extra width will help with the oversteer I get in fast corners like Riverside and maybe give me a little more grip coming out of corners as well. The car will likely want to understeer on slower corners but I can deal with that with a little throttle lift/trail braking near the apex.

What camber? And, where does it hit?
My estimated math says it should clear the outer fender with more negative than 0 and it should clear the suspension with less negative than -2.5.

The Nebulizer wrote

What camber? And, where does it hit?
My estimated math says it should clear the outer fender with more negative than 0 and it should clear the suspension with less negative than -2.5.

I'm lowered by about 3/4" on JRZ RS2's. I have -2.2 negative camber in the rear. It was rubbing on the part of the fender liner that covers the bumper clips so I cut that part out but it's still rubbing. Gonna put some whiteout on various things under there, re-test and see what rubs off. It might just be the plastic screws that stick out from the fender liner.

I decided to make the jump to a B Street M2 and am looking to part ways with the ARC-8s and Dinan adjustable front bar from my E92. Figured I'd give you F Street folks first dibs on these as they're perfect parts for a ZCP FS setup.

ARC-8s classified post here: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1468787

Will try to get some pics uploaded of the Dinan bar tomorrow after I pull it off the M3. Bar has only been on the car for ~1 year and should be in great condition - will know more when I get it pulled off tomorrow.

Shoot me a message if you're interested - I'm located in Phoenix, AZ and would prefer not to ship.

dabootski wrote

I decided to make the jump to a B Street M2 and am looking to part ways with the ARC-8s and Dinan adjustable front bar from my E92. Figured I'd give you F Street folks first dibs on these as they're perfect parts for a ZCP FS setup.

ARC-8s classified post here: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1468787

Will try to get some pics uploaded of the Dinan bar tomorrow after I pull it off the M3. Bar has only been on the car for ~1 year and should be in great condition - will know more when I get it pulled off tomorrow.

Shoot me a message if you're interested - I'm located in Phoenix, AZ and would prefer not to ship.

I may be interested in wheels and bar but would need them to be shipped.
Pm me if you want to discuss.

What are people running on alignments for FS? Car in question is a 2011 ZCP E92.

I've had my ZCP M3 for just over a week and spent most of it catching up on F Street prep on this thread. I'm grateful to everyone's willingness to share their setups & have a Dinan bar, Apex wheels and 275-35-18 RE71Rs on their way.
Someone mentioned in the thread that there was another thread that detailed how to remove the pins on the front struts & evidence that's legal. Can anyone point me to it?

merjas wrote

I've had my ZCP M3 for just over a week and spent most of it catching up on F Street prep on this thread. I'm grateful to everyone's willingness to share their setups & have a Dinan bar, Apex wheels and 275-35-18 RE71Rs on their way.
Someone mentioned in the thread that there was another thread that detailed how to remove the pins on the front struts & evidence that's legal. Can anyone point me to it?

Here's the link to Richbot's thread on pulling the pins.

CSBM5 wrote

Here's the link to Richbot's thread on pulling the pins.

Thanks so much, that's perfect!

Thread RE service manual procedure:

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1041105&highlight=TIS+camber+pin

EDIT: I made my DIY before I saw the TIS procedure too, I guess I should be a procedures writer at BMWag , lol

Richbot wrote

Thread RE service manual procedure:

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1041105&highlight=TIS+camber+pin

EDIT: I made my DIY before I saw the TIS procedure too, I guess I should be a procedures writer at BMWag , lol

I had this printed out in my materials for the first 6 or so regional/Nat'l events, and eventually tossed it thinking it wasn't something I to worry about as it was a given. Still appreciate Rich's work to link it though.

Swapped pads and rotors about 8 months ago. Have maybe 8,000 miles and 5 autoxes. Our autoxes are nearly 2 minutes long 5 or 6 runs.

My question is that the rears are only now starting to wear completely off the original cross cut grooves in the rotor. Does this seem normal?

Even if it is, is their any way I can get a bit more brake bias to the rear?

Seems, and feels like I'm giving up some braking. Could be in my head though...

The front pads wore off that criss cross pattern in about a week of normal non track driving.

For comparison

Replace rear pads with a more aggressive compound.

So who is going to some of the upcoming events? Fontana, Crows Landing, Blytheville coming up. NJ in May. I will be attending the NJ Pro

SkysTheLimit wrote

So who is going to some of the upcoming events? Fontana, Crows Landing, Blytheville coming up. NJ in May. I will be attending the NJ Pro

I may hit Blytheville Pro and Lincoln Pro/Tour depending on health issues.

I'll be in Blytheville and at Spring Nats.

My rear rotors made it to like 65,000 miles and still weren't to minimum thickness yet, along with the stock rear pads, which hadn't tripped the sensors yet. The rears wear slow. And if you're using the MDM/nannies they brake the inside front wheel a lot which could account for some of the difference