Let's compare oils

admranger wrote

I loved Redline oil when I raced, but it left the engine a lot of varnish in the S50 I was running. Granted, the engine ran stupid hot until I went to prepared class and could pull the condenser.

5w-50 probably is too thin for me now that I have BE Bearings in the car (though the mains would probably prefer the thinner 5w-50).

I too am on the fence on the 5w50 vs the 10w60 Redline. I just ordered 10w60 Redline for the next change... The BE guys recommend to stick with 10w60 so I am sure everything will be just fine.

I've been using Mobil 1 for years. No issues.

Total quartz in my e90 and now e46

I just changed from M1 0W40 that I have been running for 3-4 years to Rotella T6 5W40. It definitely pours thicker than the M1.

I'm about to get my bearings replaced as I'll be out of warranty soon. I'm going with WPC OEM bearings and BE ARP bolts at the recommendation of my very reputable shop. He also recommended going with Motul 15w-50 300v as I do 15 or so track days per year. After reading tons of threads, I'm no further convinced of which oil to use, but I will probably go with the Motul. I've been using the Shell 10w-60 as I was within BMW warranty, and I've blown an engine in my last e90 M3.

I live in Texas, and I'm most worried about oil performance while running hot. Last track day, I saw oil temps reaching 275 and water temps close to 230. I run an AIM Solo DL and SmartyCam configured to track these temps. I'll report back after my next track event running on new bearings and oil in a few weeks.

dbyrd wrote

I'm about to get my bearings replaced as I'll be out of warranty soon. I'm going with WPC OEM bearings and BE ARP bolts at the recommendation of my very reputable shop. He also recommended going with Motul 15w-50 300v as I do 15 or so track days per year. After reading tons of threads, I'm no further convinced of which oil to use, but I will probably go with the Motul. I've been using the Shell 10w-60 as I was within BMW warranty, and I've blown an engine in my last e90 M3.

I live in Texas, and I'm most worried about oil performance while running hot. Last track day, I saw oil temps reaching 275 and water temps close to 230. I run an AIM Solo DL and SmartyCam configured to track these temps. I'll report back after my next track event running on new bearings and oil in a few weeks.

If you're going to start using different oil viscosities and are truly concerned about protection under high-stress, get an oil pressure gauge.

pbonsalb wrote

I just changed from M1 0W40 that I have been running for 3-4 years to Rotella T6 5W40. It definitely pours thicker than the M1.

Coming from other makes this oil seems to have a very good reputation.
I’ve been using it in my 330i track car and have had good luck.
Wonder if you could put the specs up for this oil.
From what I understand it is a non-energy conserving oil and thus has much
Longer life under abuse.

Edit: derp, it’s already there just overlooked it

pbonsalb wrote

I just changed from M1 0W40 that I have been running for 3-4 years to Rotella T6 5W40. It definitely pours thicker than the M1.

Any reason for changing to T6, if you were using M1 0W40 just fine?

No. Just to standardize my 3 cars. T6 is a good oil and it’s cheap. It’s well liked among turbo owners and 2 of my cars are turbo. My cars also use a little oil and the thicker T6 might reduce consumption a little. Mobil 1 tends to be thin. But there is no problem I found with M1 0W40 that is behind my change.

I don't have much to compare with, I've always been running M1 0W40 in my M3.

As far as I'm concern, M1 0W40 is one of the best 40wt oil I can source, it has all the major MB, Porsche, GT-R approval (no BMW approval ironically).

I have been using Mobil 1 0w40 new life with no issues but Mobil has superseded this with m1 0w40 fs.
The specs aren't as good and it's lost bmw and Nissan approvals.
after much deliberation I've just bought some Miller's cfs 5w40 nt+ .
I personally would not use 10w60 regardless of what bmw say.after all they have designed and built an engine with clearance issues and then to push 10w60 treacle through an already tight clearance is bad design practice.

Old thread I know , but good chart by the op.

Also I see Mobil 1 10w-60 isn't listed though, is it a new oil?

Cheaper than Castrol because they do it in 5ltr cans here, vs 4 ltr cans:rolleyes:

If you drive like a granny, 0w40.

If you drive like a real man, 10w60.

kyrix1st wrote

If you drive like a granny, 0w40.

If you drive like a real man, 10w60.

Do you think the 0w40 would show wear in blackstone analysis if it was too thin for overall engine protection? I feel like I push it hard when I'm out enjoying the twisties but haven't seen any issues on my oil reports.

If by too thin you mean bearing wear, oil analysis won't necessarily pick that up anyway, see the link in my sig.

kyrix1st
So 5w-50 is for people who do both?

************************

No comments about the Mobil 10w-60?

I have to change oil at my E92 M3 2011, I have two options:

Castrol edge supercar 10w60 (BMW recommended)
Motul 8100 X-Power 10W60 (my mechanic recommend this oil to me and finally is cheaper then Castrol)

I dont care for price difference there, I want for my engine the best option. Im not racer, only normal daily driver.

Could you recommend to me the better one?

Lucas CR wrote

I have to change oil at my E92 M3 2011, I have two options:

Castrol edge supercar 10w60 (BMW recommended)
Motul 8100 X-Power 10W60 (my mechanic recommend this oil to me and finally is cheaper then Castrol)

I dont care for price difference there, I want for my engine the best option. Im not racer, only normal daily driver.

Could you recommend to me the better one?

Both are excellent. Both oils have "true" synthetic base stocks. In case of Castrol it is probably 70-80% PAO, and in case of Motul probably PAO and some Esters.
I am not sure in this case you can get definitive answer which oil is "better" as both are excellent.
You can try both, and see which you prefer. But, if Motul is cheaper, you won't make mistake buying it.

Assimilator1 wrote

If by too thin you mean bearing wear, oil analysis won't necessarily pick that up anyway, see the link in my sig.

kyrix1st
So 5w-50 is for people who do both?

************************

No comments about the Mobil 10w-60?

Hah! I had the same thought/conclusion when I saw that only options offered were a granny and real man.

What did you end up doing - go with a 10w (and be a real man ) or tried the 5w?

Well I've just replaced the rod bearings with ones which have slightly greater clearance, so I stuck with 10w-60 so there's no issue with oil pressure from that.
Oh and I got the Mobil 1 oil.

And let's face it, unless you car lives at a track we all do a variety of driving from harsh to pootling (Brit term? aka grannying) about, unless your lucky enough not to live in a town or city etc and never have to drive through one!
I think for OEM bearings with cars that are used in cold winters (it's not just driving style that counts, temperature is a major factor too) 5w50 would be better, but their was some issue about those grade oils which I just can't remember! I think it was that they sheared down faster, but don't quote me on that .

We can all dream that one day they'll make a 0w-60 that lasts just as well as any other multigrade oil .

Assimilator1 wrote

Well I've just replaced the rod bearings with ones which have slightly greater clearance, so I stuck with 10w-60 so there's no issue with oil pressure from that.
Oh and I got the Mobil 1 oil.

And let's face it, unless you car lives at a track we all do a variety of driving from harsh to pootling (Brit term? aka grannying) about, unless your lucky enough not to live in a town or city etc and never have to drive through one!
I think for OEM bearings with cars that are used in cold winters (it's not just driving style that counts, temperature is a major factor too) 5w50 would be better, but their was some issue about those grade oils which I just can't remember! I think it was that they sheared down faster, but don't quote me on that .

We can all dream that one day they'll make a 0w-60 that lasts just as well as any other multigrade oil .

Shearing down depends on two factors that are related strictly to oil (let's exclude outside factors like fuel dilution etc.).:
1. Base stock of oil.
2. Viscosity improvers.

Generally oil like 5W50 should shear down less than 10W60. Mobil1 5W50, Motul 5W50 Sport, especially Redline, will all shear down less than 10W60.
0W60 is possible to make, but shearing would be so dramatic, that after few thousands miles you would end up with 0W40. Not to mention evaporation loss of that oil. IMO, anyone living in mild climate should run 15W50 in these engines, and IMO, England counts as mild climate.

Not sure what you count as mild, but we do still sometimes get winter days where it stays below freezing here in the south of England.

As for 15w50, if it was a 15w50 oil that at least very nearly matched Castrols 10w/60 cold performance, then that might well be ok. But IMO I wouldn't risk it seeing as oil flow seems to be a problem for the OEM rod bearings at colder temperatures (IIRC their is data here about that) and excluding those who thrash it from cold. You'd be better off going for a 5w/50.

Interesting to hear about the 5w/50 btw. I wish I could remember what the supposed down side was!
Re 0-60w dream, that's why I said 'that lasts as long as any other multigrade' .

Assimilator1 wrote

Not sure what you count as mild, but we do still sometimes get winter days where it stays below freezing here in the south of England.

As for 15w50, if it was a 15w50 oil that at least very nearly matched Castrols 10w/60 cold performance, then that might well be ok. But IMO I wouldn't risk it seeing as oil flow seems to be a problem for the OEM rod bearings at colder temperatures (IIRC their is data here about that) and excluding those who thrash it from cold. You'd be better off going for a 5w/50.

Interesting to hear about the 5w/50 btw. I wish I could remember what the supposed down side was!
Re 0-60w dream, that's why I said 'that lasts as long as any other multigrade' .

Below freezing is nothing. I lived in Southeast US, and temperature would drop in winter below freezing. That doesn’t mean winters are cold. On other hand, I started Opel Vectra B at -42 with 10W40 oil in Bosnia after day and night of skiing.
Cold performance is measured by CCS, but there is more to it. I personally don’t think starting 15W50 will do any harm, as long as you are shifting before 2,000rpm until oil gets warmer. I think Redline 15W50 is real contender here bcs. Ester base stock.