Perfect Odometer Gears Inside Failed Throttle Actuator

Hi everyone,

I usually don't post about stuff like this but I'm not sure how much info is out there about actuators we put odometer gears in to.

My bank 1 actuator failed with 40,000 miles on the car. At that time I replaced the bank one actuator and put a set of odometer gears in the bank 2 actuator. The odometer gears owners are fantastic people btw. Fast forward to 57,500 miles and the car throws the code for the bank 2 actuator. I ordered a new one from fcp Euro and replaced it. Only when I disassembled the failed bank two actuator the odometer gears were in pristine like new condition.

Does this lead us to conclude that the electronics are what fail and not the gears?

Matt


PS: I hate the throttle actuator design. Idiotic. Here's a few pics. Sorry apparently my embedding process for google photos doesn't work.

<a href='https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOu6Sn9ZzydroINnsX7-35CL8zaAlRmYyl6rOu6WIz79SCksstkgagdA7Dqw7Iezg?key=OWJJUDR0bDRqVXoybU1VTEQ4eF95eWg3TU52dk9R&source=ctrlq.org'><img src='https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HDYDNwKgxWugNsw9wvWCUPW-lqudxMYxuA6vw044oZHpG7kTymQXzlm21mwk_JnbkcgJyKA7eX8dDSdyT5SxBGKU38WNZ_zOFYcTMPBn-Q5cKfwh67jni4prQMn--E-5RqIZY1y8gQ' /></a>

<a href='https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipN-jEDBD--cAz5tYE5LF5SYOgm8BdzvtwDIEwpmfejLhYpYm1b4kDNglB1M2hUSIg?key=SXlfWjVzMVZNRzVBdTg5NFJjN1FSeEc3bm1oUWNR&source=ctrlq.org'><img src='https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Fp_qpLJpOHIriQyTdTgCAOrplO-9PAGg_E8ggFbToiHxxP-1RYy1n7K4hWax9j0zbywSHBMMuP9g_Rm2685CWR3bwH34Wf4HsJavSf612SkYqXKXjkze2BKvWvs1yf328qYJJS04mw' /></a>

<a href='https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPSpKior70G6UEG7U0yVWKeOu_lS0BSNL6cemqee7Q7tnLvbkXFuFaTDsc6Xy3oOg?key=V3hlVnFZVVlPUFo3cmthNnluVGxzVURxLXZ6NmFn&source=ctrlq.org'><img src='https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/I2TVVzeQmn7js-VGhBeOgBz-qbVwtn1v28DA1Z1iqlDhhE3hQ16ZMiglmhPF8JLCIAiJP8dQj-z2-2J2p7tD7cNBZqNGLc60CfPQU4zmZt58e7YnmGob3ulhgueNGbEHCDAp65NjlQ' /></a>

About two weeks ago my car went into limp mode. so I just put odometer gears in both banks on Thursday. Later that night when I started my car it went into limp mode again. after a few times of starting and stopping the car, it finally went away. Now if I leave my car outside the garage in the cold and start it up it will enter limp mode or check engine soon light will come on. I showed a former BMW mechanic my error codes and he think it the electronics that are starting to fail. So I do believe the electronics do fail and need to be replaced.
I'm lucky to have a friend that helped me with replacing the gears because I would have been screwed if I tried it by myself.

imgur.com/a/hGcXT
imgur.com/a/wsf2c

Both can fail. I put odometer gears in 4 actuators. 2 still did not work. 1 worked for another 1.5 years and then failed. I bought a new actuator after that. I️ don’t think it’s worth changing gears once an actuator fails. Consider doing it as preventative maintenance before any issues occur. Prices are down to $600 fir BMW actuators now and the VDO version is under $500 but out of stock last time I checked. Buy new actuators and save yourself a lot of hassle.

Aren't the actuators under 10 year warranty?

IB M wrote

Aren't the actuators under 10 year warranty?

AJJ3 wrote

About two weeks ago my car went into limp mode. so I just put odometer gears in both banks on Thursday. Later that night when I started my car it went into limp mode again. after a few times of starting and stopping the car, it finally went away. Now if I leave my car outside the garage in the cold and start it up it will enter limp mode or check engine soon light will come on. I showed a former BMW mechanic my error codes and he think it the electronics that are starting to fail. So I do believe the electronics do fail and need to be replaced.
I'm lucky to have a friend that helped me with replacing the gears because I would have been screwed if I tried it by myself.

imgur.com/a/hGcXT
imgur.com/a/wsf2c

The theory was that one led to the other based on my reading on this board and the m5 boards. For me it seems like it's more electronic.

pbonsalb wrote

Both can fail. I put odometer gears in 4 actuators. 2 still did not work. 1 worked for another 1.5 years and then failed. I bought a new actuator after that. I️ don’t think it’s worth changing gears once an actuator fails. Consider doing it as preventative maintenance before any issues occur. Prices are down to $600 fir BMW actuators now and the VDO version is under $500 but out of stock last time I checked. Buy new actuators and save yourself a lot of hassle.

Maybe I wasn't clear in my post but that's what I did. I replaced the gears in the good actuator that never threw a code at 40,000 miles. That actuator went bad at 57,000 miles. With the odometer gears in it in perfect shape. When the first one went bad two years ago I paid $792 after searching high and low the whole country. This time around I paid $520. Definitely helps and I agree. Not worth it. Just buy one and swap it out.

IB M wrote

Aren't the actuators under 10 year warranty?

I tried this when the first one sweet bad. My car was less that 8 years old when the first one went bad and the SA that I knew told me to pound sand. I didn't even bother trying this time around. I'm in so cal.

The theory is based upon the wrong logic: Most people confound symptoms with cause. Look here and here for an explanation.

The gears can be a problem also. They do wear very noticeably. There is a guy on eBay selling a replacement mosfet set. But there are also people who have replaced mosfets and still had issues.

What I meant is that both worn gears and defective electronics are only symptoms - not "the problem" (=cause). Once you cure the cause (i.e. insufficient lubrication), the symptoms will never occur (again).

To put it another way: Both symptoms will occur ever and ever again in random order if you don't cure the cause. What you are observing is what happens when people cure only the symptoms.

I'd vote for "preventive maintenance" as well - I lubricate the linkage of the throttle valves once a year with no problems so far.

What year car and how many miles?

Since changing mine for rebuilds in 2014 I have been lubricating the linkages but at that point already had bad TA so lubricating would help but not fix the TA circuit boards.

Late 2011, 30.000 miles. I was lucky enough to get to know the culprit before anything could go wrong. However, when I lubricated the first time after 4 years and 23.000 miles, the linkage already squeaked on manual actuation.

Would you elaborate on what linkage you are lubricating exactly and what are you using for lube?

I haven't had issues yet and this is the first time I come across mention of this preventive maintenance. Appreciate any detail you can share!

meyergru wrote

Late 2011, 30.000 miles. I was lucky enough to get to know the culprit before anything could go wrong. However, when I lubricated the first time after 4 years and 23.000 miles, the linkage already squeaked on manual actuation.

30k miles Maybe wait until you've logged substantial miles before using your case as evidence.

M43S7RO wrote

Would you elaborate on what linkage you are lubricating exactly and what are you using for lube?

I haven't had issues yet and this is the first time I come across mention of this preventive maintenance. Appreciate any detail you can share!

See the links I posted above...

ksteckba wrote

30k miles Maybe wait until you've logged substantial miles before using your case as evidence.

I just answered a question - I never said my car was "evidence".

If you knew Ring-Tobi, who provided the image of of lubrication points, you'd know that he serviced tons of M3s (including rod bearing changes). He knows something about these machines.

If you need "proof", I suggest you wait until your actuators fail, since I will be racking up only 3.000 miles / year in the future.

As for me, I prefer to take a no-regrets strategy with the lubrication of the linkage - as well as with a rod-bearing change once 60.000 miles come near.

But you don't have to - it's a free country.

I tried lubricating the linkages without success and still got the squeak. I used RZ-50 which is a dry Teflon lube and should be much more effective than WD-40. WD-40 is a horrible as a lubricant as it gums up over time. I would also avoid any silicone based lubricants too.

I'll have to go back in there sometime with an oil based spray like Ballistol.

meyergru wrote

Late 2011, 30.000 miles. I was lucky enough to get to know the culprit before anything could go wrong. However, when I lubricated the first time after 4 years and 23.000 miles, the linkage already squeaked on manual actuation.

That is so few miles you would not have a problem anyway. I dont think there is any proof lack of lubrication is the issue. It is one of the theories, along with boards going bad and gears going bad. Lubrucating is certainly a good idea but I am not convinced it’s the cure. If yours are fine at 150k then you might be onto something, but that will be in 20 years at 5k miles per year.

meyergru wrote

What I meant is that both worn gears and defective electronics are only symptoms - not "the problem" (=cause). Once you cure the cause (i.e. insufficient lubrication), the symptoms will never occur (again).

To put it another way: Both symptoms will occur ever and ever again in random order if you don't cure the cause. What you are observing is what happens when people cure only the symptoms.

I'd vote for "preventive maintenance" as well - I lubricate the linkage of the throttle valves once a year with no problems so far.

What are you using exactly to lubricate them? My bank 2 squeaked when I was in there last time so I lubed both with something probably insufficient.

Edit: WD40? Really? That collects dust better than an attic.

I don't believe that WD-40 gums up. Matter-of-fact it can unstick gum.

WD40 is a penetrating lubricant and works much better than teflon or silicone-base oils in order to get the smudge out. It is true that is is not a good long-term lubricant. However, all of those tend to attract dirt. Therefore, I use WD-40 and re-apply it once a year.

Anything is better that not servicing the linkage, though.

meyergru wrote

What I meant is that both worn gears and defective electronics are only symptoms - not "the problem" (=cause). Once you cure the cause (i.e. insufficient lubrication), the symptoms will never occur (again).

To put it another way: Both symptoms will occur ever and ever again in random order if you don't cure the cause. What you are observing is what happens when people cure only the symptoms.

I'd vote for "preventive maintenance" as well - I lubricate the linkage of the throttle valves once a year with no problems so far.

Is there a diy for that by chance?

meyergru wrote

I don't believe that WD-40 gums up. Matter-of-fact it can unstick gum.

WD40 is a penetrating lubricant and works much better than teflon or silicone-base oils in order to get the smudge out. It is true that is is not a good long-term lubricant. However, all of those tend to attract dirt. Therefore, I use WD-40 and re-apply it once a year.

Anything is better that not servicing the linkage, though.

Yes, WD-40 is a good penetrant and that's it. It's not a very good lubricant or protectant. Being a firearm enthusiast, I've done a lot of research of "CLPs". If you're going to use WD-40 which is oil based, you're better off cleaning the linkages with brake cleaner first then use a synthetic oil or sprayable teflon dry lube.

My main issue is I still couldn't get the squeak out of bank 2. I'll probably have to go in there with more oil or spray next time to really get it in.

IB M wrote

Aren't the actuators under 10 year warranty?

Definitely not.

I don't know why you guys waste money on upgraded TA internals. The only solution is to buy new TAs. Rinse and repeat.

doogee wrote

Definitely not.

In some US states it falls under the ten year emissions warranty, and some have had success replacing theirs through that stipulation.