What have you done with or to your M3 today?

Brought her back home finally after a big refresh.

Rod bearings (previously mentioned)
Brake system
Motor mounts
Exhaust hangers
Spark plugs
Fuel breather valve
DCT oil pan and fluid
Diff fluid

And a handful of other smaller loose ends tied up here and there that are slipping my mind. Big thanks to Performance Eurowerks for taking care of the work and putting up with my impatient ass throughout the process.

Restored headlights

Received parts! Boring stuff but needs none the less

Megabrode wrote

Replaced the driver side extending cupholder. It had stopped extending and rattled.

Replaced both wiper blades. Had to buy the full units..unlike my X3 and other M's, for which you can buy just the rubber inserts. Feels like gouging to me, softened slightly by the 10% CCA discount and the fact that they installed the blades and filled the empty washer reservoir. Still, $108 for cupholder and blades.

Gagged when I heard the price, so did not purchase an M hat for $45.

Washed and vacuumed the car.

Ordered the Dr. Colorchip basic kit.

My fix-it list is down to one item: get the paintless dent guy to remove two tiny dings.

Then, perfection (for the time being).

For next time:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004INLKKE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

noremaC wrote

Restored headlights

Did you DIY wig some particular kit?

Been interested to do this, but was afraid of removing factory UV coating.

noremaC wrote

Restored headlights

They look great. Factory coating gone?

Installed new cabin air filters.

vincE92M3 wrote

noremaC wrote

Restored headlights

Did you DIY wig some particular kit?

Been interested to do this, but was afraid of removing factory UV coating.

Worse comes to worse, you can sand and compound off your DIY and re-apply with another kit.

As I found, you can actually purchase the headlight lenses new for $80 each (requires heat gunning the old ones off and sealing the new ones) if you want the factory application back.

DIY with this kit:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00429NKWK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500513061&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=sylvania+headlight+restoration+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=51yGerGLZQL&ref=plSrch

cliverman wrote

noremaC wrote

Restored headlights

They look great. Factory coating gone?

Yes but the kit I used (check my other response a post above this one) comes with a UV coating (last step in the kit process).

noremaC wrote

Worse comes to worse, you can sand and compound off your DIY and re-apply with another kit.

As I found, you can actually purchase the headlight lenses new for $80 each (requires heat gunning the old ones off and sealing the new ones) if you want the factory application back.

DIY with this kit:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00429NKWK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500513061&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=sylvania+headlight+restoration+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=51yGerGLZQL&ref=plSrch

Never seen lenses sold separately, where do you find them?

E90M3velocity wrote

noremaC wrote

Worse comes to worse, you can sand and compound off your DIY and re-apply with another kit.

As I found, you can actually purchase the headlight lenses new for $80 each (requires heat gunning the old ones off and sealing the new ones) if you want the factory application back.

DIY with this kit:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00429NKWK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500513061&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=sylvania+headlight+restoration+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=51yGerGLZQL&ref=plSrch

Never seen lenses sold separately, where do you find them?

http://m.ebay.com/itm/331989067915?_mwBanner=1

noremaC wrote

http://m.ebay.com/itm/331989067915?_mwBanner=1

But those are $160 each, where can you get them for $80?

Iyzmi wrote

But those are $160 each, where can you get them for $80?

It's two pieces. Says 'pair' right in the title

noremaC wrote

It's two pieces. Says 'pair' right in the title

Oh duh, reading probably helps...

noremaC wrote

http://m.ebay.com/itm/331989067915?_mwBanner=1

Cool thanks, are these OEM or aftermarket replacements like how Hella makes replacement headlight and taillight units?

Got some snazzy new plates

tomfraser wrote

Got some snazzy new plates

Nice work mate .... got to love IB too!

Just finished a full paint correction with Menzurna and Flex XC3401VRG. Followed up with Wolfgang Sealant, and then toped with P21S.
Just got my CR spotless system and tested on the E92 last week. All I can say is fantastic not having to dry the car. Well worth the cost.
Sorry for the poor iPhone pics.

redvitesse wrote

Just finished a full paint correction with Menzurna and Flex XC3401VRG. Followed up with Wolfgang Sealant, and then toped with P21S.
Just got my CR spotless system and tested on the E92 last week. All I can say is fantastic not having to dry the car. Well worth the cost.
Sorry for the poor iPhone pics.

Awesome! Can you talk a little more about the steps you took during the correction? Also, how much did the CR setup run you? TIA!

had a couple scratches on my manifold so for now i covered it up with a piece of 4D CF wrap. luckily i had a brand new ESS badge laying around from my e46 ESS kit. it will hold me over until i get it refinished.

buddalun wrote

Awesome! Can you talk a little more about the steps you took during the correction? Also, how much did the CR setup run you? TIA!

Sure thing. I bought the M from a fellow forum member about two years ago and while the paint was in very good condition it did have a few water mark etchings on the top and then of course some minor swirls and wash marks. As I only use the M during the warmer months and they were not glaring issues I didn't feel the need to tackle them before. I have had a Makita 9237 Rotary for years and I still use it as it works super quick on serious imperfections but for minor work and finishing I picked up a flex 3401.
Comparing the two, the Makita is like a sledge hammer for the tough work where the flex is like a velvet hammer and a lot easier to do finishing work with. To do the full correction I followed the following regiment>
1. Wash with dawn dish soap + boars hair brush
2. Iron X. spray to body and Sonax wheel cleaner with wheel woolies used on wheels. Spot cleaned road tar on wheels with WD40.
3. Wash again with Karcher preassure washer, foam cannon + chemical guys super suds + boars hair brush.
4. Dry and then 3m tape to the window trim, taillights. Sunroof open and filled with card board (great way to allow moving the machine and pad over the painted edges around the sunroof so you do not have to tape around the ruber sunroof seal)
5. Used Griots Garage branded Clay bar to all panels. My favorite clay and I have used a bunch.
6. Garbage bags over the tires and wheel, just slit the back of the bag to slip over the back of the suspension components (no clean up from possible sling or introducing dirt/grit from tires to the pad when working fenders and quarter panels)
7. Used the Flex with a combination of Menzerna 1000 cut + Lake Country Hydro Cyan pads along with Lake Country Microfiber Cutting Pads on the water etching marks and other harsh scratch marks.
8. Followed with the Flex and Menzerna 2400 + Lake Country Tangerine pads
9. Flex and Menzerna 2400 + Lake Country Tangerine pad on B Pillars and rear taillights.
10. Followed with the Flex and Menzerna 3800 + Lake Country Microfiber glaze pads and Lake Country Crimson pads.
11. Used Flex with Lake Country Crimson Finishing pad to apply Wolfgang Sealant WG 5500 removed with Lake Country Microfiber bonnets.
12. P21S carnauba wax applied and removed by hand.
13. Liquid Glass Sealant applied to wheels/barrels by hand and then removed with microfiber cloth wrapped around Mothers polishing cone attached to cordless power drill.
14. Flitz Metal polish on exhaust tips applied with microfiber cloth
15. Rain-X to exterior windows,
16. Plexis plastic polish applied to Xpel clear bra and tail lights.
17. Dressed the engine and tires with Trinova ad Meguiars dressings

I have used polishing compounds, from Meguiars, 3M, Wolfgang, and Menzerna. Menzerna is my go to on BMW paint as it typically is pretty hard and the 3800 with the right pad finishes with a result very close to what a full glaze will provide. Wolfgang's polishes work much like the Menzerna (no suprise as I have read that Wolfgang enlisted Menzerna in their development process) but the Wolfgang is much more costly than Menzerna.

CR Spotless works great, just need to see how long it will last but I only plan to use it for rinsing after a full wash or for a quick rinse when to much dirt or sap is on the car to safely use a quick detailer. Purchased off Amazon (sold by CR Spotless) as it was the same price as direct but free shipping with Prime. At $250 not exactly inexpensive but makes life a lot easier and then no more spots or towel drying. After the amount of time spent polishing, taking some of the risk out of possibly reintroducing marks makes it worth it in my OCD mind. Replacement resin is not that costly but how long it lasts is heavily dependent on particulate quality of the water you have at your location, Most poor reviews regarding longevity are from individuals using the system for all stages of wash or those with well water. Well water is known to have heavy particle content so resin will need replacing very quickly.

Looking over the length of my post, should probably have put this in the Detailing section but you asked for the regiment. Feel free to hit me up with questions.
Have fun on the street and in your garage, Cheers!

redvitesse wrote

Have fun on the street and in your garage, Cheers!

You are the MAN! Thank you for the the thoughtful step by step.

I recently acquired a Flex 3401, too, and plan to use the Optimum Spray system for a 2-step correction with the Flex, both for the first time. I plan to seal with Opti-Seal.