DIY: Axle-Back Exhaust Removal

This is a great thread. I am about to install my akra slip-on, and found this video made by EAS, showing the installation of not only the rear section, but x-pipe as well.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=T1aROyPuZZs

Groundpilot wrote

This is a great thread. I am about to install my akra slip-on, and found this video made by EAS, showing the installation of not only the rear section, but x-pipe as well.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=T1aROyPuZZs

Slip-on's a piece o cake with just some ramps. Getting the stock off is the biggest hassle, but not bad. Try hitting all of the bolts with Liquid Wrench or equivalent the night before. Everything came off with ease.

I just bought an M performance axleback system from an associate of mine and thought it would be fun to install it myself. Then I put it off for a week thinking do I really want to do this. A friend has a lift at his house and I thought I would call in a favor. After reviewing this thread and all the comments I decided to tackle it at home in my garage.

I jacked up the car from the rear jack pads, and placed each rear tire back down on a large chunk of lumber (7" thick, 14" wide, 24" long). I also chocked the front wheels. I then threw a couple of padded moving blankets under the car on my slippery garage floor - which made it easy to slide in an out.

With no help, I was able to loosen the front bands and yet keep them engaged then systematically removed the nuts from the rest of the hangers. It was easy to use a normal ratchet on the 18mm nuts on the differential hangers by the way. The last thing I did was to remove the last nuts from the rear most hanger and using my body (laying on my back, feet toward front of car) gently lowered the OEM unit onto my body. It is amazing how heavy the OEM unit is in relation the M performance unit. I gently let it down on the moving blankets and then pulled it out from under the car. I used the Lisle muffler hanger tool (GREAT TIP and worth the $20) and WD40 to remove all the rubber doughnut hangers (tip - put units side by side and remove and reinstall one at a time so you get orientation correct).

I then slid the new unit with all hangers installed under the car and set the front of the exhaust tubes into the loose clamps which held surprisingly well while very loose. Then I was able to push the rear up with one hand and get one of the side rear mounts on its studs and stick one nut on with the other hand. This was by far them most challenging part of the job.

Once it was self supported, I put a nut on the opposite side rear mount and then moved to the diff mounts. These went on very easily and I tightened them. Next I fully tightened the clamps at the front of the unit to the front section of the exhaust.

With this done I was able to remove the temp nuts on the side rear mounts (diff mounts and front clamps held perfectly) and move the unit around to get the rear hangers situated correctly and then went around and tightened up everything.

There were no hiccups and I would say actual work time was less than an hour. In fact it would be a 20 minute job on a lift - especially the second time around.

That was my experience and I just want to say thanks to those of you that took the time to post this thread and all the comments. I have been on this forum for years but mostly just read and almost never comment. This is such a great resource.

btw, my car is a early production 2012 e92 M3 coupe 6MT ZCP. The little screws on the lower bumper cap were standard hex heads (I think 5/16") no special tools needed.

Thanks again!

good diy

Does anyone know if the oem connecting pipes are easily removable?

gazosnic wrote

Does anyone know if the oem connecting pipes are easily removable?

You have to cut them as they are welded straight to the muffler.

Great write up and post! It helped me swap out my stock exhaust for and ACM modded unit, and it was really straightforward based on these instructions. I'm loving the nice deep rumble of the V8!

Thanks for the DIY. Had to put the OEM modded exhaust of my old M3 onto my new one, so I basically had to do it all twice. It was pretty easy the second time

On my '09 E92 all nuts are metric given that our cars are Euro. Not sure why some are using SAE sockets on Euro cars. All that are required are 18mm (front hangers), 8mm (bottom bumper support). Everything else is 13mm.

I used an ATV lift as it's wider and inherently more stable and made the job so much easier. If you're doing this job by yourself a hydraulic jack is mandatory. I would also say if you're going to attempt this DIY that you invest in this tool to help remove the rubber hangers. It will make all the difference in this job being easy or a PITA. I bought one and it just paid for itself.

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-38350-Exhaust-Removal-Pliers/dp/B0012S9A5U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1379446526&sr=8-1&keywords=exhaust+hanger+tool





***SOLD***Selling my Corsa Sport Exhaust in excellent condition, no winters, used less than 7K miles, black chrome tips, local pick up only. Fits E92/E93 M3 (coupe & convertible). Part #: COR1456X $1300.00

Do those "wires" from the stock exhaust need to be reconnected to the aftermarket exhaust? Or are they not needed on aftermarket exhaust?

woptang22 wrote

Do those "wires" from the stock exhaust need to be reconnected to the aftermarket exhaust? Or are they not needed on aftermarket exhaust?

They are small braided security cables in case the actual mounting bracket fails. The cables would hold the system from dragging on the road. Yes, they need to be reconnected.

+1 on the rubber hangar removal tool thingy.

man i wish i had that when i did this job

Another thank you from a fellow E92 M3 Driver. Really like my Gintani Exhaust

Nice Rumble wrote

They are small braided security cables in case the actual mounting bracket fails. The cables would hold the system from dragging on the road. Yes, they need to be reconnected.

Or are they ground wires? If so, mine are nearly broken so I will replace them or make something.

They are in fact ground wires.

Thanks for the writeup OP. I was going back and forth about doing this myself due to time constraints, but honestly it was rather painless. I was worried about the rear hanger bracket with the reverse torx bolts but an 8mm socket hooked up perfectly. Best thing is having the peace of mind knowing that the job was done properly. It took me a little over an hour taking my time and double checking everything.

Does anyone know the torque spec values for the clamps?

vincE92M3 wrote

Does anyone know the torque spec values for the clamps?

I asked Remus for their clamp's torque specs but I'm sure it would apply to OEM, too. I will update when their R&D department responds.

Any opinion on using the cheaper $15 muffler mounts to replace my cracked hangers?
https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E92-M3-S65_4.0L/ES2597169/

The OEMs are $40 each.
https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E92-M3-S65_4.0L/ES39865/

EDIT: Aaaaaand their R&D dept. has no idea.

Very nice diy, was able to install an MPE on my car in less than 3 hours. And I have never done any diy before except for changing wheels and installing intakes. Thank you OP!

Crawled around on the garage floor yesterday removing a Eisenmann Race exhaust on my 2008 M3 that I just bought. It's a bit loud for my 55+ neighborhood and one local track will not allow it. Went back to the stock and may add a Eisenmann middle of the range later.
This write up allowed me to feel confident to be able to get this job done myself without bleeding all over the place.
The suggestion to remove the hangers would not have occurred to me and while the Lisle hanger tool works, it would have been tough with the hangers on the car.
Thanks for the write up and all the comment and suggestions.

Doug

Another bump of thanks for this great DIY. I wished i had read further into the thread and seen the hanger removal tool though... My hands are still sore from manually removing them!

Great DIY , was a breeze with one variation.

I have an e93 , so you need to remove the centre rear and middle side bolts for the cross bracing so it drops enough to let the exhaust out.

Other than that its fairly straight forward. I have a battery operated impact wrench (rattle gun) and it broke the resistance on the bolts easy.